紅葉 | Momiji | Maple Leaves | Patterns #14

Momiji refers to the motif of leaves from the maple tree, often most affiliated with the autumn season when they turn to a beautiful red and are shed onto the floor. The most commonly used in Wafuku is the Kaede leaf (Acer Japonicum).[1] Other popular motifs include the arabesque swirling waves of the Karakusa pattern, water ( Ryusui-ni-Momiji ) and with deer motifs.[1] 

The origins of the motif can be traced to the Nara period when they were admired for covering mountains in their yellow hues.[1] During the Heian period this changed to red when they were used as allegorical devices in Heian poetry and wafuku as a way to rejuvenate the body after a long sticky summer in preparing for the autumn, around towns like Tatsugawa.[1] This poetic change may be a moral story surrounding having the child of child Genji as opposed to the Emperors child in Momiji no Ga, the 7th chapter of the Tale of Genji's Messy Lovelife after which Fujitsubo, the Emperors lover decided to raise the child as a single mother at court. Instead Genji has to content himself with doing some Bugaku, seeing Fujitsubos child cousin playing with dolls, and watching his mates squabble in the end pining for Fujitsubo.[6]

Genroku Maple and Water Kosode fragment with Autumn Kanji (c1690, PD) LACMA

Note the Genroku propensity for writing all over everything!

By around the 16th century, plays like the Noh play Momijigari ( Maple Viewing ) foretold of the dangers of getting too drunk during Momijigari as you apparently could get attacked by demon-ladies trying to break your heart.[5] By the Genroku period this was mixed with the designs of popular designers such as Ogata Korin in a call back to the idea of Wamono in the assertion of Japaneseness by using the 'Korin-momiji-mon' motif.[2][3] In vernacular history, it is said that for an Asobi to send a Momiji to a man is to have left him, becuase she has changed colours and grown bored of him in doing so.[4] During the 1920s, a great number of popular Meisen kimono seem to have used seasonal motifs like Momiji in asserting their Wamono-ness. Other examples also show this happened again in the 1950s in polyester, with Momiji retaining its popularity. Today people go to Arashimaya or Noboribetsu to see the changing Momiji.

Bibliography

[1] https://int.kateigaho.com/articles/tradition/patterns-29/

[2] See Essay #8 under Ogata Korin

[3] For an example of Wamono beauty standards, see Bijin #10 under Komin Codifying the Genroku-Wamono Bijin and Bijin #9 under Early Ukiyo-e in Print and Technology for context.

[4] https://www.academia.edu/18981047/Momiji_the_Maple_Leaf_on_Monet_s_Kimono

[5] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Momijigari_(play)

[6] https://www.japanese-wiki-corpus.org/literature/Momiji%20no%20Ga.html#:~:text=Momiji%20no%20Ga%20(%E7%B4%85%E8%91%89%E8%B3%80,next%20autumn%20at%20age%2019.

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朝顔 | Asagao | Morning Glory | Patterns #5

Asagao is a motif, often repeating pattern which can be placed sporadically across Kimono or is sometimes seen adorning a trellis or trailing pattern. Clusters in spots are also popular and most appear on Yukata, as the flower is most popular between July and September in Japan. 'Asagao' crudely translates as 'Morning Face' and is a metaphor for the beauty found in the morning glow of the Bijin, particularly young women.[1] It is thought wise by etiquette standards though that the pattern may be worn only in July and August when the bloom is budding.[2]

Asagao-zu Byōbu (1796-1858) Kiitsu Suzuki

The flower became imported into Japan during the Nara period (710-794AD) by Chinese diplomats to Japan and used for its medicinal properties to treat the runs.[1][2] This is evident by the celebrated nature of Asagao in Chapter 20 of the Genji, which celebrates Princess Asagao, the one Genji didn't get to bone because she tells him to do one, either way Genji turns up at her house and immediately has a harem around him, including Prince Shikibu *wink wink nudge nudge* and some MILFS. Asagao Hime though is like, nah go bone with Shikibu, not me. Genji then "sends her emo poetry" and goes to bed a grumpy umpus. Seeing Asagoas lovely dewlight face in the morning sun, reminded him of the beauty of mornings in her face. Genji then goes off and tries to shags a bunch of MILFs and Murasaki. Then it snows and they all make  snowmen with the servants becuase Snowmen wont make themselves of course.[3] Blah blah ephemerality bleep bleep beauty of transience bloop bloop.

Asagao gained popularity by the 17th century when they began to be grown in greater numbers, when the pattern during this time transferred well into ornamental design and became used on Uchiwa (団扇 | rounded square hand-fans), Tenugui (手拭い | printed hand towels), Combs and Kosode designs.[2] The pattern remains popular today in Yukata particularly being a trend worn often in deep or bright colours by Gyaru in the late 2000's that I remember from Japanese street photography.

Bibliography

[1] https://kokoro-jp.com/culture/2460/

[2] https://int.kateigaho.com/articles/tradition/patterns-19/

[3] https://mostbeautifulgenji.tumblr.com/post/80568794417/chapter-20-the-morning-glory 

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