Her Haughtynesses Decree

Showing posts with label BeautyStandard. Show all posts
Showing posts with label BeautyStandard. Show all posts

Sunday, February 9, 2025

Elizabeth I Portraiture | Musings

 Elizabeth I created a standard for portraiture in the Early Modern English age of the artform of portraiture. Remember that the time when the paintings were created was often after death or around specific large events as the creation of anything bigger than a palimpsest book or illustrated biblical pocketbook was a marvel given the distance that the ingredients and materials required to create these works travelled and in the circumstances under which they were created. Portrait miniatures were often instead the primary visual medium at the time, not the grand canvas and tapestry scales many royal portraits took in this time. These were created specifically to conjure an idea of grandeur, majesty and awe. Portrait minatures were successfully launched to England by Levina Teerlinc (c.1510-1576) from illuminated manuscript production under the workshop of her continental Dutch father and prior artists who had dabbled after 1450 in some miniatures. She and Esther Inglis, as well as Thomas Hilliard are widely known as some of the more popular portrait miniaturists of the Elizabethan and Tudor court periods.


Keep in mind that Elizabethan portraiture is heavily edited as the portrait was always after the same Darnley likenesses of around 1560 which is why her portraits appear so similar after this time when she ascended to the throne. They were tools of power and authority to symbolise the literal editing of the historical narrative to one befitting a Gynocentric one from this time on. Feminism in the truest sense of the term. These symbolic tools incorporated Elizabeth widely read usage of European and further afield symbolic allegory of mythology taken from Classical and contemporary sources as Elizabeth herself spoke and read in around 6-9 languages fluently and certainly came into contact with many more, a large number of which are today extinct or obsolete languages.[1] 

Some of the artists whom Elizabeth worked with being Hilliard, Cornelis Ketel, Federico Zuccaro or Zuccari, Isaac Oliver, and perhaps Gower and Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger. Many of these later editions were created with the intent of being shown to foreign powers, including foreign countries/regions and individuals in the earlier period of Elizabeth's reign. Local work for local owners of portraits in the British elites were laid along their long galleries which paid homage to Elizabeth as Queen specifically to curry favour within her royal court, and became fashionable architectural elements of Elizabethan grand manors. This zeitgeist has been referred to as the cult of Gloriana.

The Family of Henry VIII 1545

Not a sole portrait but this gives us the grounding for the type of world into which Elizabeth was born into. When she was first entering the world into which she found herself she was simply the image that was projected before the world for the benefit of her father. 

That is she was the progeny of a great man in a world of great men and not regarded by those in charge of enough money to commission portraiture at the time worth much more, particularly in the idea of the formation of the state craft portraiture certainly for the Tudor s that these matters entailed. Here she is shown very simply as a child in their parental charges, albeit as a princess of a second failed marriage which had by then been moved on into the third, which was seen as surpassing both Mary and Elizabeths importance for that of their brother who would go on to die as a child and having left very little impact other than to confirm that he was indeed a 14 year old boy from the get-go.

Instead this is an image which represented for Elizabeth the hell into which she had been born. The dynastic succession disputes created and caused utterly by the rakish whims of her rakish father figure. This also confirms her position within the court circles of painters such as Hans Holbein and the role portraiture conveyed in her life, as well as her familiarity and adoption of painting and portraiture to convey particular roles into the forward motions of court life and states craft.[2]

Lady Elizabeth Tudor 1546 

The earliest portraits of Elizabeth were her 1546 portrait as a teenager. At the time she was inbetween the care of her mother and being a ward of the crown due to her father's sinful displays of domination towards her father by cruelly ripping her away from her care and into the hands of her new cardinal, who proceeded to try to fondle her buttocks at the tender age of 14. This was the world Elizabeth was born into and expected to have her entire life dictated by, the whims and wishes of mediocre male mortals. 

Instead we can also infer the symbolism inherent in the family lore Elizabeth was positioned between as the daughter of Anne Boleyn. Boleyn was the chaste mother of Elizabeth, who became pregnant after Henry VIII decided to be a little rake that year. He was inbetween his situationship with his current wife, and because he wanted Anne, he decided to make a new state religion and get with his mistress anyway because even the Pope thought he was being too much of a rake for anyone's good. Boleyn in this portraiture is thought to have given her teenage daughter this dress, as it was her favourite colour, and a short while after was sent to the execution block because Henry was back on his rake business because his gout had lead to his spermatozoa becoming infertile, but rather than blame his own failing, disgusting health and habits, he blamed his mistr-wife. 

So in her 1546 portrait, we can see the sort of world and decisions that Elizabeth was allowed to make. None. She existed in a power vacuum based on her Rakish father's decisions of the week, leading to the death of her mother and the destruction of her half-sisters relationships, as a state between being the rightful heir and the ungrateful protestant allowed to live in a predominantly, albeit continental, Catholic European hierarchical structure until Henry created Anglicanism. Even by the artists own hand, this was meant to be a portrait which limited excessive ornamentation, therefore focusing the attention away from luxe towards the purity of Elizabeth in youth as a young, plain girl. This of course sounds ridiculous with hindsight, but remember that at this time Elizabeth's mother had just died for being in the wrong place at the wrong time according to the 'Men' around them both, and in making out Elizabeth to be just a plain, garden variety princess this emphasised her unimportant status at the time. In other words, masking her status to protect her from a fate like that of her mother's by attracting 'the wrong kind of attention' beheaded women of the period seemed to find themselves alongside. Instead, the 1546 portrait was meant to say to a viewer 'here is the daughter of an ex-royal, nothing to see here'. Meanwhile, Elizabeth was in grieving for her mother, whom she could not legally speaking mourn in the traditional manner given it was the kings will the women aforementioned be put to death, in a parting gift from her mother whilst balancing the duties of incumbent and non-incumbent royal court duties.

Symbolic objects such as roses or prayer books were included in some of Elizabeth's earliest portraits. Prayer books indicated her love of reading, study and piety, perhaps also an elevated sense of progressiveness associated with allowing a woman to rule at the time, along with the fact that Elizabeth could even read at the time at all. When these things came to be in the sense of roses, these were harkening to the Tudor lineage through the War of Roses succession crisis of the previous centuries. For her medieval audience (remember we are talking about matters of state) her roses would have signified a dual meaning of her lineage and also millefleur tapestries depiction of the Madonna, a significant replacement of the Catholic imagery when these were used in later portraiture.

On this matter of purity and the death of her mother, this was a constant in her early life. To the point that in a statement to her incumbent parliament on the matter of succession, she declared: ‘Assuredly, if my successor were known to the world, I would never esteem my state to be safe.’[5] Death for women was a constant, and in the Henry Tudor realm, they were seen as particularly replaceable objects. In this way, purity becomes a symbol for the matter of which Elizabeth projected out to the world, whilst also following her own follies and differing opinions from that of men. She instead projected herself onto England in a bid to both self-sacrifice and renew the flailing state the country had been left in under the succession crisis and disputes created by her father and some men in the time of her youth to lead her to needing to be a pure, chaste, virgin Queen outwardly, whilst her inwards world was one of books, learning, poetry, mythology, favourites, ladies in waiting, games, warfare, state policy and day to day theatricals.

After this time, this purity of image was perhaps as a coping mechanism maintained by Elizabeth in her portraiture. It is thought she may have requested this matter in the way Hilliard was said to reduce the amount of ornament, falsity and chiaroscuro included in portraits of her through 1560 to 1580 for example. This was held to be such the case that in a Proclamation from 1563 (1563 memorandum), there was a great discussion of Elizabeth's being depicted in 'blacke with a hoode and cornet', a style which held the wearer to be a pious Christian women, as found in the portrait miniature of her be Levina Teerlinc from 1550 for use in a private capacity.. something which by this time with Elizabeths ascendance to the throne and thus increased need for legitimacy to shoulder the Tudor dynasty as only the second female ruler in the Kingdom of England to do so, was an unbefitting image of the Elizabethan queen, instead more suitable for a Tudor princess. 

Hilliard was introduced around this timeframe as the apprentice to Elizabeth's jeweller, Robert Brandon, showcasing that there was a general feeling by Elizabeth already at this time of the importance of having creatives around her and encouraging their work. Elizabeth in this way gave money to Protestant and British creatives, such as Hilliard, Brandon and Treelinc during these times to make miniatures, manuscripts, bibles, jewelry, portraits and paintings. She was in this way responsible for some of the overall milieu of the art world in the wake of Shakespeare, goldscraft, embroidery, tapestries and other artforms which sprang up and flourished during her reign.

Hampden portrait 1560

Thus the Hampden portrait was introduced into the fray by the English court painter, George Gower.  Here she is depicted in the work as an upright person in colour. She is depicted as wearing the Red rose of the House of Lancaster and a gillyflower. The Rose sits atop a chair, commentating on her link to the royal lineage as a viably legitimate candidate in a time after 2 centuries of instability and random candidates from the leading Platagenet and other branch families of the English royal family. She is firmly stating that the House of Lancaster is where she does her allegiances and heritage towards, rather than perhaps the incredible instability the House of York had held during that century. The Gillyflower may be a reference either to Shakespeare, or to peppercorn rents, which may have indicated to a select few the actual budget allocation a young queen was intending to expend. This was a direct fiscal reaction to her father's lavish expenditures, such as those rakish matters of state as the Agincourt battle of the Field of the Cloth of Gold of 1520, where Henry VIII had a habit of overspending on. In turn however in the use of the Gillyflower, the implied message back from the Queen's barter was that of 'Socage shall be applied', ie, lords may have their lavish spending and the Queen hers on occassion to please the matter of appeasing the general populace and pleasing the aristocratic court, but in return Socage (pledging allegiance to a monarch whose land a feudal lord resided on) must applied in return, as had applied in the time of Edward VI under his Quia Emptores (1290) which dictated that English land cannot be given away willy nilly without the authorisation of proper authorities. In other words, I will be the head of your messy realm, but you will serve absolute allegiance to my authority or else. This was a regular message with implied undertones to a select number of aristocratic elites who may have been planning subterfuge or treasonous activities involving the usage of English land and coffers to do so. 

The incredibly expensive carpet she stands atop which may have indicated her trade allegiances at the time as she began the initation in the 1570s (letters travel by boat then) towards the Anglo-Moroccan alliance of her loyalties and interests as a new monarch. Behind her is what appears to be either a tapestry or some kind of collection of fruit, most of which was mostly a brag about how much money and mostly connections she had to be able to afford such luxuries as fresh fruits, mostly as many of these seeds came from places like the New World or the earth of Elizabeth's many great estates. This is mostly signified by what appears to be some kind of tool or anchor (?) in the bottom right which seems to have be related to these fruit varieties most likely. This also makes reference to the peppercorn rents, as peppercorn was used as a bartering system during this time due to frequent famines, but was also an exotic luxury good deemed at the time more valuable than gold as a spice of the East Indies. Thus these items were traded for feudal rights to plough and own land to the crown and other feudal headmen systems.

All in all the Hampden portrait gives the idea that this a general portrait of a new stable queen. The significance of this is that most of the issue surrounding Elizabeth at this time were instability from other family members trying to take the throne. Albeit whilst her 'gloves are off', meaning she will wage war for her throne through her claim in the other hand, she is sitting for a generally human portrait in comparison to later portraiture claimature. This was a theme which was often revisited in the gloves, and which would start a long glove craze in the successive courts of James VI of Scotland in a bid to be even a tenth of the human being Elizabeth was whilst James burnt witches and screwed everything except his wife. In this way for Elizabeth, gloves were a sign of favour which came with the territory of kissing the hand so to speak. She though long fingers, her own in other words, were a sign of elegance and royalty.[4]

Elizabeth I and the Three Goddesses 1569

Here Elizabeth begins to use portraiture as part of state crafting and nation building through her knowledge of classical mythology. The portrait here involves the usage of the story of the Judgement of Paris.
 "Eris, the goddess of discord, was not invited to the wedding of Peleus and Thetis. In revenge, she brought a golden apple, inscribed, "To the fairest one," which she threw into the wedding. Three guests, Hera, Athena and Aphrodite, after some disputation, agreed to have Paris of Troy choose the fairest one. Paris chose Aphrodite, she having bribed him with the most beautiful mortal woman in the world, Helen of Sparta, wife of Menelaus. Consequently, Paris carried Helen off to Troy, and the Greeks invaded Troy for Helen's return. Eris' Apple of Discord was thus the instrumental casus belli (or her not being invited to the wedding in the first place) of the Trojan War."
Instead of Paris, a figure whom Elizabeth deliberately depicts herself as thereby inducing the stature and posturing Paris is meant to invoke in a reader, as she would have seen and done so herself. 

In the portraiture, she is the one now commanding the 3 goddesses Juno, Venus and Pallas-Minerva who abide by her command at the bottom of a step. This may have started as a sort of self insert fanfiction, however the end result is again, that of states craft. The matter at hand is that of the impending crisis that the Trojan wars depict the fall of Troy, whereas it is said that the portraiture herself is inversed. This was the rather unsubtle matter of saying 'I am in charge, and I will be stable'. The context here is more important the actual Queen staffage itself. The Queen here is shadowed by her predecessor, the first Queen of the realm, Mary I, also known as Bloody Mary for her particularly aggressive and cruel treatment of many of her 'subjects' during her rule. Elizabeth instead beguiles the specter by demanding the respect of her sex given that the previous Catholic monarch had fumbled the bag, earning her successive moniker. 

IVNO POTENS SCEPTRIS ET MENTIS ACVMINE PALLAS / ET ROSEO VENERIS FVLGET IN ORE DECVS / ADFVIT ELIZABETH IVNO PERCVLSA REFVGIT OBSVPVIT PALLAS ERVBVITQ VENVS'. Translated as: 'Pallas was keen of brain, Juno was queen of might, / The rosy face of Venus was in beauty shining bright, / Elizabeth then came, And, overwhelmed, Queen Juno took flight: / Pallas was silenced: Venus blushed for shame'.[4]

Indeed the world in this painting is said to be the real world, and the world on the right pure fantasy, with the royal courts insignia part of the everyday Gloriana, and the right the land of fantasy envisaged by the flight of the goddess Venus in her chariot of swans.[4]

After 1570, the queens portraiture became something the English parliaments wished to display a sense of devotion and veneration from her subjects. These were meant to replace the Catholic imagery that had come before it, of Catholic saints, of the Madonna, of the miraculous Virgin birth of Jesus. Each of the prior lose strands of these public yarns about the Queens identity were spun into a tapestry which made up her new place as the head of her fathers Rake decisions. She literally took on the mantle of making the Tudor dynasty work, work Henry had been too busy shagging rosbif to do. For example her day of accession became Accession day (tilts), and just as Queen Elizabeth II started doing her TV appearances, these become fodder for the public imagination of what an 'English queen' got up to in England. 

The Family of Henry VIII: An Allegory of the Tudor Succession 1572

This is basically a joke from Elizabeth to Francis Walshingham, Elizabeth's master spy.[3] Inside this allegorical satire, the modicum of decency shown in handing the legitimacy to the English throne is shown in the way Henry VIII directs his line of descent through the hand of her kid brother to herself shown in the age in which she was at the time the painting was commissioned by Elizabeth. This was a commentary on stability.

The carpet under which all of these individuals are stood represents the Anglican Church, which was ruled after Henry VIII by only Protestants and Catholics on occasion. Those on the carpet are said to be in Elizabeth's worldview, the rightful heirs by blood to this matter at the time. The Catholic opposition  however, displayed on the right is the Spanish ruler Phillip II who had married Mary I who had died 20 years previously. Privately, this was a matter of ridiculing the Catholic supposition to the throne as the Pope was trying to at that very moment excommunicate Elizabeth from the religion. At this time, the fracture of England to Protestantism and Lutheranism, can be seen as whole when it was a matter of personal excommunication of the English queen who had so managed to rule without the problems of Mary. It was in this manner, that Elizabeth was communicating to her medieval and by then state craft image that she was the rightful ruler and had earned her spot in the geo-social-politics of medieval European court drama that established her right to rule.

Behind Philip is Mars, the God of War, implying strife caused by Philip II's rule, at this time in England and later down the line by invoking old tensions in the future. Behind Elizabeth however are the goddesses of Peace and Plenty, a clearcut message to the generals and leaders of Elizabeth mercenaries and armies that at the helm, she would lead England for Englands sake rather than as a personal moneypot which Philip used his lands, titles and possession for, much as occurred with the Philippines in later years, and the legend of the Black death arose around the Old and New World in raised heckle against.[3] 

Indeed around the context is where Elizabeth situates herself, placing herself as specifically, in the inscription beneath it all, as 'last of all a Vyrgin Queen to England’s joy we see, Successyvely to hold the right and virtues of the three'.[3] This was most likely created to bolster the Treaty of Blois (1572) which was made to build upon an alliance of England-France versus Spain v Netherlands dynamic in a bid to make the Protestant nations stronger in continental Europe. Her master spy at the time, was the ambassador to France, so this was a cheeky way of saying, 'we shall overcome all odds Philip raises to us' as it was also implied that Philip at the time was in control of the Pope, meaning her excommunication was a personal attack from her brother-in-law who was trying to discredit her legitimacy on the basis now, not of her sex as her father had done, but on the basis of her religion, and in trying to excommunicate her and claiming she was a simply heretyck who would need to be burned at the stake to quell the anger of his omnipotent god. Philip was not a nice person. To top this off, the portrait was made by an exiled Protestant from the Spanish Netherlands.

Hilliard Miniatures

Some of the royal portrait miniatures at this time turned to Hilliard as there was some criticism of not enough royal patronage being spent on British designers and craftspeople, given that Holbein and Treelinc both came from the continent and other designers and craftspeople were often overlooked by more established craftspeople from areas such as Flanders, Antwerp and other established book publishing centres maintained by monks and other writers and manuscript illuminators. 

Pelican and Phoenix 1576

During this time, Hilliard began the Pelican and Phoenix portraits. These were both made from the same wood and complemented one another in the way that these images symbolised the birth of the stable England Elizabeth had promised. At the cost of which was to become apparent later on, but the domestic economy of England by that point was more stable under her reign than it had been during the previous tumultuous reigns and wars of the previous rulers of the kingdom of England. Each of the portraits retain their titles from the jewelry worn by the Queen.

The pelican in her piety is a symbol of the medieval period. It was said that the pelican would feed its young with blood from it's own body to nurture the young. This gave the image of a self sacrificing being fostering the talent and future of its young over itself. The pelican pendant has it s wing outstretched and its beak in its breast, given the image of a self-effacing and humble monarch as derived in the lore of the time, an image that Elizabeth was fond of. In this way, it was said that Elizabeth sacrificed some creature comforts as well as her own blood sweat and tears for England. 

Large pearls symbolising purity and Artemis, the god of the Moon, are also shown everywhere. Continuing the purity theme, 2 cherries adorned the Queens earlobes, an untouched Virgin reference. Fringing above her head implies the Queendom and the usual Tudor rose runs amock. In this particular portrait, a Flower of Lis gives the impression of her claim to the kingdom of France. Her gown also displays blackwork, a particular embroidery embellishment which showcased her local homegrown artefacts, replete in roses.

The Phoenix portrait is a mirror image copy of the Pelican, symbolising an animal which is rising from the ashes to be reborn anew. It should not be understated that this was most likely the idea of Elizabeth distinguishing her right to rule given mediocrity and other biases which allowed the double standard of men creating things and then cocking them up, whilst not allowing women the same ability, time nor place to do the same. This double portrait by Hilliard implied that here was a grandeur for the double here and is what the author of this blogpost takes to imply in the aftermath of state craft that Elizabeth had come to realize in private, but not to take up in public as it would have ruined her claim to the throne and ability to rule independently and alone as an older woman in particular. 

The Phoenix represented for Elizabeth the rebirth of her image and use in society and for the realm. Unlike the Pelican, it was not a humble self-sacrificing emblem, but rather a matter of state craft once again, in that rejection of all that came before her to try something new so as to be able to create the overall immersion of a new England and new type of role model. By this point as quasi-absolute monarch, she decided what direction her fashion, her governments, her realm in other words would go. Slaving, the Protestant and Catholic wars and all of the succession disputes she had to mop up after her father was done were things with which the Phoenix was required as a symbol for. The Pelican on the other hand was invoked as a matter of taking the overall burden of the world into which she had newly birthed. She was as she once said not married to a single man, as she was 'already bound unto a husband which is the Kingdom of England'.[5] Instead Elizabeth used her messed up situation as Virgin Queen to benevolently  for its populace move England towards a national state of independence. Her marriage, her womb, her bedchamber were a matter of state. As such, she would never marry foreign princes or even her own native lover. This would have drawn England into war and other men's realpolitik afterall, as Mary I had been done so to under her marriage with Philip II.[6]

Instead Elizabeth rejected this and made herself and England independent of others. We can see this in the way Elizabeth referred to her favourite in allegorical ways, 'Robyn' being Robert Dudley for example.[5] Albeit it that later on in his life, he became tarnished and for a being of state, this was not good enough. Mortal men were too mediocre for royalty, even in 1560. Instead Dudley was made an Earl and tucked into the footnotes of history as another British favourite. Her marriage prospects abroad as well are limited as a royal, and even though she wanted to marry a younger brother of the King of Anjou in 1581, this was called off after it was found out he was Catholic. In sacrificing her love life and giving her body over to the image of state craft and England, she arose from the ashes becoming invested by this time in her portraiture immensely, as one of the creative crafts and 'appropriate' ways she could let her own thoughts be felt.[5]

Gloriana

With the imposition of Gloriana in full swing, it became expected for those who curried favour to wear an image of the Queen's likeness. Usually in the form of a brooch (see the Drake or the Armada jewel).

1580s

By the time the Armada arrived, these had become the cult of Gloriana, with all of the long gallery's, poetry and popular plays of the day (Shakespeare) replete with reference and inference to the ongoings of Elizabethan court creativity.

Emmanuel College charter 1584

Given his position as royal limner Hilliard

By the 1590s, these portraits became stuck in time from the Darnley era and created an emerging age of eternal youth and beauty. An engagement in public relations to the greater political and global British empire that had begun proper under the Elizabethan and Tudor banner.

Purity to rule
Virginity and Purity were also present in a great amount of the symbolism of the works, take for example the naming of Virginia.
Allusions were often made to the moon and pearls for this very matter.
Moon symbolism was often in sway with Diana and Artemis, the Roman and Greek goddess of the Moon and the Hunt.

Portraits
The Family of Henry VIII 1545
The Lady Elizabeth Tudor 1546
Lady Elizabeth 1550
Hampton Portrait 1560
Elizabeth I and the Three Goddesses, 1569
The Family of Henry VIII: An Allegory of the Tudor Succession 1572
Miniature by Hilliard 1572
Phoenix Portrait 1576
Pelican Portrait 1576
Emmanuel College charter 1584


Sunday, March 31, 2024

貞奴 | Sadayakko | 1899 - 1917 | Essay #24

Sadayakko (1871-1946 | 川上 貞奴 ) was an actress, performer, artist, globetrotter, judoka, muse, rider, teacher, theatre kid, proprietor, stage manager, project manager, business owner, patron, polygamist and traditional artisan. Sadayakko was highly regarded Beauty and upper class artisan in Japan, living in Tokyo in the beginning of her life and the palace upon her retirement, who established Kimono Textile Culture as Beautiful in countries outside Japan in the Meiji and Edwardian Period.[1] Sadayakko was an influential fashion influencer in the realm we will be discussing of how her influence was received in the Global North, unfortunately principally in her lifetime as the embodiment of the French originating Orientalist fantasy of the Lotus Blossom stereotype, with the Kimono's place in that.[10] The Kimono becoming a sign of subservience and social defilement in it's usage by French, Italian and American depictions in the early 20th century.

Sadayakko as Ophelia (1903, PD) Anonymous

Sada to Sadayakko

Sadayakko (being her stage name, real name most likely being a derivative of Sada Otaka) was born in the late Meiji period to an upper middle class family of what we may today call bureaucrats, also running a bookstore. Sadayakko's mother was a known Bijin, having worked for a feudal lords family, and thus her husband; Sadayakko's father; moved into the household overtaking husbandry duties in the process of their estate. During the heavy industrialisation process which Japan underwent in the process of modelling its industries and sciences on Western models, inflation spiked leaving many savers, such as Sadayakko's family with reduced savings. In a bid to manage this situation, Sadayakko's father turned to pawnbroking. Aged a tender 4 years old, Sada was sent to work as a maid, eventually leading her into the line of work of Art-person in 1878.It was here when Sada debuted in 1883 that Sada gained the work name of Ko-yakko after another famous Beauty and Art-person.[1]

From this perspective, we can establish that Sadayakko was the creation of a persona and work title initiated under Japanese beauty standards and desires of the Meiji period. Certainly she is a beautiful face to stare at whilst researching in the midst of grainy newspaper archive images. Her round face, long black hair, and set phenotypical features smacked of the everyday Japanese beauty standards, even up to the modern day with her wide eyes and natural beauty. This would have been a persona which was both taught to and polished by Sadayakko. This being the case particularly as the daughter of an upper class beauty, entertainer and trendsetter as expected of Art-person's as performers. During this time of being a modern if not New Woman, she took up horse-riding, and during one of her races took a lover. In 1886, she became acquainted with Ito Hirobumi who bid for her Mizuage. Given that Hirobumi was an upper crust politician, this elevated Yakko to a high class status in upper society once again.[1]

Boats and Beauties

During the early 1890s it is most likely that she will have become what we today call an influencer, dictating the tastes of those around her in the way she approached her new duties as a performer, penultimately coming into the realm of acting. Given that public acting was forbidden for women, this a particularly New Woman move, as Sadayakko preferred performing the more energized and embodied masculine roles. In 1888, she moved on from having pillow time with a future prime minister, to taking another 2 lovers. As a New Woman however, she seems to have got bored of the pillow time and became taken with her acting husband in 1891, tying the knot by 1893. Unfortunately he was a man of his time and decided to have a child with another woman in 1896. In what is a decidedly Meiji era resolution to the matter, along with the husbands financial troubles, they both ran away on a boat. In 1899, they decided to go on another boat to America to act as part of an acting troupe in New Jersey in a tea garden.[1]

How Sadayakko portrayed herself (c.1901, PD) Benichan

Kimono as International Textiles in the Global North

It was at this time, that Sada arrived in North America to be told that she been billed by their proprietor as a very famous actress, rather than simply her husband's partner. Something which she had not anticipated. Picked for her Beauty, it was at this time that Sadayakko entered the realm of introduced beauty standards for an unintentional international audience. Her equivalents were considered to be the likes of the French actress Sarah Bernhardt (1844-1923), although she rings to me more of an Ellen Terry (1947-1928). Sadayakko was presented as a high class society performer from Japan, and in the time of receptivity to the culture of Japan, all manners of her influence and cultural cache were adopted and embraced fir the consumption and usages of the West. It was in this capacity that Sadayakko became a marketing tool, and part of the toolkit of American commodification of the Kimono, an unfortunately recurrent response seen to Asian and Asian-American cultures and people of using Asian cultures as a tool to make easy money from cheap thrills.[1] Kimono thus was introduced at this juncture to many in the San Francisco area in 1899 as a performance or stage related form of dress.[1] This then spanned London, Paris, Italy and many more between 1899-1903. 

Sada introduced the Kimono as part of a wider textile culture of fashion, which she deftly employed in her everyday, theatrical and performance related duties. Kimono stood both for Japan, tradition, modernity, fashion, cosmopolitanism, beauty, luxury, wealth, taste and artistic merits. In their introductions into the original setting of Kimono to North American audiences in this sense, Sadayakko introduced Kimono as beautiful, fashionable and luxurious garments with connotations of Japan. In London this may have been linked to other ideas of art, relaxation, suffrage and the middle class due to the inclination of middle class women to take up the Kimono and its derivative styles in older embroidery styles, Banyan culture, as part of Tea gown culture and as part of the wardrobes of the people involved in the artistic circles who bought their Kimono from warehousemen and luxury stores to extoll their cosmopolitan airs and graces. To the average British audience member of Sadayakko's shows however, it may have held a greater affinity to the theater, Japan and the arts.

France, the Geisha and the Lotus Blossom

The principal area where Sada would recognise to her usual profession though, was in Paris. In Paris she was perhaps the shock of the New, which granted her access to space, places and people such as the Champs de Elysees (Presidents Palace, like the White House, but more honest). Keep in mind though that this is Primitivist Decadant France, so especially colonial project-y France. Desired as a muse for the renowned misogynist Picasso (1881-1973), the bourgeois second French empire bronze cast designer Auguste Rodin (1840-1917) and Orientalist fetishist, child abuser and writer Andre Gide (1869-1951), the Kimono was a desired item to be set in print, pigment and bronze.[2][3][4][5][6][7][8] Kimono at this time were appreciated in France as an aspect of Japonisme, or the trend for Japanese flavoured culture, much like negrophilia with Josephine Baker (1906-1975) in the 1920s, Sadayakko in Kimono was a flavour of exoticism, an Other who would be fit neatly into the mold these men created for Japanese, or Asiatique femme. In the sense that Sadayakko mostly performed and was influenced by the French, Sada co-opted and promoted French practices and notions. These western inclinations included the likes of Loti's (1850-1923) Madame Chrysanthemum (1887), which flared the stage set for Sada to walk straight into, Arthur Golden (1956-present) story and all. 

The Kimono therefore in the introduction of the dominant French discourse of the time, snubbed Japanese beauty standards and discussed them purely in racist terminologies of coolies, Geisha's, Butterflies, Chrysanthemums, dolls and blossoms. These subservient women narratives flew in the face of Sadayakko's own lifes work and lifestyle. During those short years of touring around Europe however (1899-1902), Sadayakko promulgated the role of the Kimono as a luxury, art-adjacent item in great demand and this is told by the rise in trademarks and fashion magazines such as Harpers Bazaar which used variants of her stage name to sell 'genuine' 'Kimono'. This may be seen as a continuation of Japonisme, however the shine had worn off by around 1895 of the Japanese flavour, and instead subjugated french 'citizens' of colour were the flavour literally in French vogue. 

Another influential encounter in Milan was with another Orientalist misogynist composer Giacomo Puccini (1858-1924) who used Sada as the model for Madama Butterfly, which is probably the next essay to go over in any detail. Nonetheless of course, this means the continental European response to Sadayakko was at the very least, problematic.[9][10] Sadayakko was also seemingly known for finding these more congenial and fitting settings for her ilk, so make of that what you will.[3][7] This often included her seemingly being comfortable with the replication of her work in the manner of the image below which co-opted her role to create Madama Butterfly.

Solomiya Krushemischi as Madama Butterfly (1904, PD) Українська Вікіпедія

Cultural Cache

La Japonaise au Bain (1864, PD) James Tissot

No instead, Japonisme had lost its lustre, being a remnant of middle class 19th century collectors and artisans. Only the peasants would have bought Japanese related goods after 1900. Rather Kimono became something that people had to be convinced to buy, as they were increasingly made into a solely Japanese, or Oriental dress. Instead, Sadayakko extended the shelf life of the artistic connotations dynasties such as the Franco-American dynasties held to the Kimono due to the influence of artisans such as Whistler and the Goncourt Brothers held for Kimono in the 1860s-1880s.[11] These items however were often of lower quality and held different connotations when white French women began to wear them in the early 20th century as the decline of imperialism began with the introduction of Independence parties and educated political elites returning to today's Global South countries.

Kimono Sada Yacco advertisement (1906, PD) Au Mikado store
Kimono Sada Yacco (c.1904-1906, PD) Au Mikado

Sada in this way creates a cultural cache for European divas, tying the Kimono to another set of ideals of power, wealth and art.It is interesting to note how different nationalities (I had to classify stuff in some way to save my sanity) would portray a woman they unanimously referred to as a muse or goddess of acting as Max Beerbohm (1872-1956) put it.[12] The Sadayakko brand therefore co-opted and signed off on the establishment of Kimonopes in France by 1906, as Sadayakko trademarked these items when the option was brought up to her on her travels.[13]

Japan


Sadayakko as Portia (1903, PD) Anonymous | Sadayakko (1901, PD) Utagawa Yoshiiku  
 Sadayakko as Salome (1915, PD) Engei Gaho

Australia

Le Shogun (1901, PD) Rupert Bunny | Madame Sadayakko as Kesa (1907, PD) "

Britain



Sada Yacco (1901-1902, PD) William Nicholson | Sada Yacco and the Japanese Play Actors (1901, PD) Sphere
Madame Sada Yacco as Katsuragi (1902, PD) F D Walenn


Frogs

Kawakami et Sada-Yacco au Théatre de la Loie Fuller (1900, PD) Charles Lucien Léandre



Sada Yacco (1900, PD) Raymond Tournan | ", (c.1899, PD) Alfredo Muller
Sada Yacco Study (1902, PD) Pierre-Georges Jenniot


Sada Yacco en 'La Geisha et le Chevalier' (1903, PD) Pierre-Georges Jenniot | Sada Yakko (c.1903, PD) Leonetto_Cappiello
Sada Yacco (1908, PD) Tavik F Šimon
The Sketch work (1908, PD) Tavik F Šimon

Germany


Sada Yakko (1901, PD) Max Slevogt | Sadayakko (1901, PD) internet

Japanische Schauspielerin, Sada Yacco (1901, PD) Emil Orlik

Italy

Sada Yacco Pamphlet (c1900-1902, PD) Shakko

Portugal

Sada Yacco (1902, PD) Celso Hermínio for Parodia

Spain


Sada Yacco (c.1900-1933; 1902) Ramon Casas

Japan conveys a regular depiction of a Japanese actress for the times. This may be our baseline for expectations. Australian painters seemingly focused on the introduction of Kimono to painting styles from Sadayakko's influence in her capacity as a theatre star, with later works focusing on a Whistlerian angle which of course is mired in Orientalism. British printmakers and artists seemed to have focused on the performance and draping of the Kimono as British society was already familiar in the middle classes, especially given the report of the play was given in the upper class magazine The Sphere. Indeed the images depict Sadayakko in rather a lot of detail akin to Costume design images.

O-yuki (1750, PD) Maruyama Okyo

France seems to have crafted an unfortunate Oriental figure of something like a Banshee trope, of a wild crazy woman with wild outlandish hair, snakelike inhuman curvature postures, claws and ghostly pale faces in a effort to make an aesthetic image of the Ghost figure Sadayakko portrays which akin to the Yurei-zu type familiar to Japanese folklore, but not in this kind of inhuman snake-like figure. Indeed many of the racist stereotypes of WWII seem to make an appearance here, with  wonky lines for eyes, claws, mixed Chinese and Japanese aesthetics, a distinct reworking of Japanese elegance into mess (the Pine Tree in Simon's 1908 work) and an inhumane caricature of Japanese culture in particular. Other elearlier posters do relay to the earlier depictions of Japonisme such as in Mullers work, but most of the post 1901 works seems to relay more to the encroaching imposition of an Asian great power in Japan to to 'civilised circle of nations' France understood along with America (this is an 1853 perry reference) hat it and not other colonial nations belonged to.

Germany and Italy get off with a better rap, depicting her stage performance and costume. However Italy seems to simply depict Sadayakko as a white woman, which seems to be a recurring theme of utilising white supremacy politics in portraying 'New Japan' as being in proximity to whiteness. Portugal and Spain follow Frances example of depicting Japan as both New and Old, somehow both modern and 'civilised', yet also feudal and 'backwards', such that depicting Sadayakko requires turning her into the Orientalist figure Casas depicts her as in her stage garb, but as a regular normal woman in his portrait sitting.

Caricatures and Cacophonous C's

In context therefore we can see that whilst an unsuspecting Beauty who was put into the spotlight by high society men, Sadayakko was a woman who utilised her connections and introduced Kimono as part of her high class brand. This was turned on it's head by mostly white Europeans who turn the Kimono into an Oriental figure more akin to a Chinoiseire wallpaper from the previous century, or at least something closer to a caricature of Japanese culture. Sadayakko perhaps due to her own autonomy in a patriarchal system of the Good Wife, Wise Mother trope, may have ignored and also being an unsuspecting victim to. Sadayakko leaves a mixed bag in her role in Kimono Textile Culture therefore, as one who both profited from the sale of Kimonopes, and spent her time in the company of unfortunates, and as someone who did not wish to have the spotlight thrust upon her originally.

Bibliography

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sada_Yacco

[2] https://chumediahub.wordpress.com/2021/02/12/influential-japanese-women-sada-yacco/

[3] https://badgayspod.com/episode-archive/s6e5-andr-gide

[4] https://www.coopertoons.com/caricatures/augusterodin_bio.html

[5] https://redflag.org.au/article/crimes-french-imperialism

[6] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Algerian_War#:~:text=War%20crimes%20committed%20during%20the,million%20Algerians%20to%20concentration%20camps.

[7] Please see the Glossary for the Orient Map and search the Orientalism tab to explore the French love of Orientalism and how the economy sending Mr.Rodin to school with was upheld by the French Empire, which colonised Algeria, Benin, Burkina Faso, Cameroon, Chad, Haiti, Morocco, Madagascar, Mali, Tunisia and Vietnam in his lifetime of which the profits to this day return to France.

[8] https://www.aa.com.tr/en/analysis/analysis-france-still-not-paid-for-humanitarian-crimes-committed-in-africa/2647914

[9] https://the-history-girls.blogspot.com/2017/03/sadayakko-in-london-by-lesley-downer.html

[10] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereotypes_of_East_Asians_in_the_United_States#:~:text=In%20media%2C%20East%20Asian%20women,with%20their%20child's%20academic%20performance.

[11] See Essay #23

[12] https://easternimp.blogspot.com/2015/09/sadayakko-through-artists-eyes-part-1.html

[13] https://easternimp.blogspot.com/2015/09/sadayakko-through-artists-eyes-part-2.html

Essay Abstracts 

#1 Renee Vivien (1877 - 1909) --- Born Pauline Tarn, was an English lesbian poet. She wrote in French and perhaps English. She took up the style of the Symbolists and Parnassinism and was well known during the era of the Belle Epoque (the Beautiful Age) for producing Sapphic verse and living as an open quasi butch lesbian poet; her verse derived from the ancient poet Sapphos, also famed for her love of women.

# 2 Birth of the Kimonope --- Here I shall introduce the notion of the Kimonope, that is as a garment attached to the social construct of the 'Geisha' in North America. Kimonopes being Orientalized clothing, or 'negatively affiliated or exoticized ethnic dress' which lead to the perceived notion of the Kimono and Geiko as simultaneously both high and low culture to American culture makers, such as film, television, media, writers and some academics. An example of Kimonope are the tacky Halloween costumes you may find at the Dollar store.

#3 The Legacy of the MacArthur Dynasty on KTC & The Problem with the 'Traditional Garment' Argument --- The problem with arguing that the Kimono is a 'Traditional ethnic Garment' is that that assertion is in itself, arguably  Ethnocentrism, which to clarify is the imposition of, in this case, American values onto Japanese cultural values, belaying the 3 pronged pitchfork of idiocy. 

#4 Divine --- Government name Harris Glenn Milstead (1945-1988) was the infamous North American Queen & Drag artist. Specifically, Divine was known for being a character actor, part of her act is well-known for its eccentricity. My personal exposure to Drag lite was Pantomine Grand Dames as a kid, and later when my friends made me watch RuPaul in art classes, so to me this is nothing new, the over the top, the glitter, the upstaging is all part and parcel.

#5 Dori-Style or 21st century Kimono Fashion --- The Dori-Kimono style. Something which I just made up because in going over notes for the first 20 years of 21st century section of Kimono history, I noticed a lack of a clear catchall term for what was happening in Japan at the time, at least in English descriptions of the time. I use the term Dori as I do not want to coin an unrelated term to the topic, but I also am reticent to claim all of Street style as 'Tori' either, whilst a large number of streets upon which the subculture originates in all use the suffix 'dori' (the bottom of Takeshita-dori for example), thence Dori-style.

#6  The Tea Gown --- This essay will cover the aspects of how 19th century Japanese import textiles to Western countries were used and repurposed, as well what their desirability tells us about how Japanese design was regarded and the image which these people held of Japan through the Western lense and consciousness. This follows the progression of how Kimono can be used in the West from the undress of the 1860s, adapting silk bolts in the 1870s to high fashion western daywear, to the 1880s aesthetic movement and 1890 wholesale adoption in the Victorian age to being used prominently by society hostesses as tea gowns by the Edwardian period, and the subsequent change in Japanese export culture which we see in extant textile collections of Japanese textile in Western dresses of the periods.

#7 Kimono and the Pre-Raphaelite Painters --- This essay will cover the aspects of Kimono in the Portraiture of the Pre-Raphaelites. The Pre-Raphaelites were a group of British artists and writers active during the late Victorian period. Unlike the Royal Academy artists, this circle of painters operated outside of the established comfortable boundaries of the expected white, cisgender middle class audience of the Victorian age. The movement is notable for its inclusion and encouragement of women, and in portraying and engaging non-conventional beauty and beauties as figures from the Classical World alongside Religious, Mythological and Folklore Heroines into Victorian 'Femme Fatales'.

#8 Jokyo/Genroku Kimono Textile Culture and the new role of the Komin ---  This essay will return back to GKTC (Genroku Kimono Textile Culture ; 1688-1704) and JoKTC (Jokyo K.T.C. 1684-1688) and the new role of the Komin (Artist caste) in GKTC. JoKTC is notable for being the lead up to GKTC, JoKTC being characterised by its transitory nature in comparison to GKTC, which was far more bold in its relations to what Kosode could and should be. Komin entered the picture at this juncture, and I shall elaborate a little more here than in other posts about why that was. GKTC is notable for its elaborate, perhaps gaudy and innovative Kosode design features, whilst JoKTC more so for the enabling factors of the time, as a sort of incubatory GKTC.

#9 Tagasode Byobu - This essay will explore the art motif known in Japanese art as Tagasode Byobu ( Whose sleeves Screen) This motif is a recurring art form which was particularly popular during the Azuchi-Momoyama era ( 1568-1600 ) as a representation of the ways in which Buddhist sensibilities met with the fast changing events of the end of the Sengoku Jidai (1467-1615) and as an extension of the habit of wealthy women from military families came to own and store a large number of Kimono. Prior to this, Kin Byobu ( Golden Screens) for the most part depicted nature like Sesshuu Touyou (1420-1506) after Chinese Cha'an painter Muxi ( c.1210-1269 ) or 'flower-and-bird' scenes like those of Kano Eitoku (1543-1590), rather than humans or human paraphernalia as an extension of the Zen painting school of thought about materialism.

#10 Cultural Acculturation --- The topic of our essay is on the nature of Cultural Exchange in KTC which will be an ongoing mini-series throughout 2022. This covers the 1000CE - 1500 period in Japanese History.

#11 Cultural Appropriation --- The topic of our essay is on the nature of Cultural Appropriation which will be an ongoing mini-series throughout 2022. 

#12 Cultural Acculturation --- The topic of our essay is on the nature of Cultural Acculturation which will be an ongoing mini-series throughout 2022. This covers the Asuka (Hakuho), Nara (Tempyo), and Heian periods (500CE-1000CE) in Japanese History.

#13 Asai Ryoi --- This essay will explore the legacy of Asai Ryoi on KTC. Who was Asai Ryoi you may ask? Only one of the most important writers for the Ukiyo genre. Asai Ryoi ( act. 1661-1691 ) was a prolific Ukiyo-zoshi ( Books of the floating world )  or Kana-zoshi  ( Heimin Japanese Books ) writer. His leading 1661 publication, lambasted and satirized Buddhism and Samurai culture of restraint in favour of the Chonin lifestyle of worldy excess.

#14 Edith Craig --- This is a post regarding the early adoption and promulgation of the Kimono and Japanese aesthetics in the life of the wonderful Edith Craig (1869-1947), daughter of the famous actress Ellen Terry (1847-1928) and Edward William Godwin (1833-1886). Edith was also known as 'Edy'.

#15 European Banyans --- This essay will explore the European garment known as a Banyan, which originated as a European reaction to Kimono in the 17th century, popular until the end of the 18th century. The word Banyan originates from Arabic ( Banyaan), Portuguese (Banian), Tamil ( Vaaniyan ) and Gujarati ( Vaaniyo ) loanwords meaning 'Merchant'. Alternative versions saw the item fitted with buttons and ribbons to attach the two front sides together. The Banyan was worn by all genders and was particularly regarded in its first iterations as a gentlemanly or intellectual garment worn with a cap to cover the lack of a periwig, and later adopted by women and greatly influenced how British womens garments were designed with preference for comfort in removal of panniers whilst maintaining luxurious, modest 18th century fashions (see Robe a la Anglaise).

#16 Miss Universe and Kimonope --- This essay will explore how Beauty Pageants, principally Miss Universe, has engaged with KTC. While there may be real Kimono worn by Japanese and Japanese adjacent contestants in the 'National Costume' category, I will be focusing on the Kimonope worn by contestants. The idea of Kimono as a 'national costume' sparks interesting conversations on what 'national costumes' are, their target audiences, and how we form ideas about these things to begin with.

#17 Onna-E --- Womens pictures refers to the Nara, Heian and early Kamakura ( 710-1333CE ) practice of drawing women in elongated Hand scrolls, which today are regarded as feminine gender coded Art. Some of these narratives depict the lives of women, their extra diaries, or the literature they wrote. The Onna-E style derives from how mostly Heian women represented themselves and others as a performed self in these scrolls, drawing from their lives indoors at their and the imperial abodes. Whilst a limited number of women could read Kanji, they also used their knowledge of Chinese culture to create and inspire their own culture; the first truly Wamono aesthetics; and it was with these preconditions that Onna-E became established in the Japanese art scene alongside Yamato-E and Oshi-E.

#18 A Jamaican, a Monster and Portuguese bar in the Orient --- This essay looks at the Kimonope attire adopted by North American Dancehall artists Shenseea (Chinsea Linda Lee | 1996 - present ) for the video to 'ShenYeng Anthem'. Whilst the aesthetic derives mostly from East Asian, principally Chinese aesthetics, the language used is specifically Japanese, referring to Chinsea Linda Lee as 'ShenYeng Boss', a perpetuation of the Dragon Lady stereotype. The essay mostly charts how this ridiculous Kimonope derides from the North American Anti-Chinese movement and how this intersects with contemporary Orientalism.

#19 The Red Kimonope --- The Red Kimono is a terribly named racist US silent film from 1925. The Longingist film includes a key scene which the production gets its name from where the protagonist drops her Kimonope, meant to symbolize that she had turned away from sin and prostitution, or in other words equating a wearer of the Kimono as a sex worker which stemmed from another American 'tradition'. This dreadful melodrama features the previously yellowface-accepter Priscilla Bonner as the lead protagonist. Throughout her trials and tribulations, she faces many ups and downs, like becoming a white version of the Lotus Blossom stereotype, because WASPs. I will explore the origins of the Lotus concept and the 'Jade' in more detail here as to provide the contextual background of the productions symbolism.

#20 Housewife, Business Girl, Office Lady --- I explore the concept of the arrival of the Business Girl, and the Shufu ( Censored | Housewife ) of the 1930-1970's period of the 20th century.[1] This intersects with how we see Wafuku represented, in a shifting dynamic that had not shifted so many barriers since the 1870s, and even until the 1990s with the intrusion of Euro/Americentric beauty standards being foisted upon the world during these centuries, in the wardrobes of the upwardly mobile single business women of from 1955-1965. These groups came into being in the 1950s with the advent of the eclipse of settler colonialism and patriarchal standards over women's lives internationally. KTC thus developed in response to these changing, testing and trying times (between 1930-1970).

#21 Herman's 'Kimono' --- In this essay I look at another Kimonope, specifically another Miss Universe 'national costume' entry. This particular Kimonope represents the legacy of Macarthism's neo-colonial/systemic racism, and subjugation of Japanese soft-power, a follow on of Orientalist late 19th/early 20th century assumptions and stereotypes of Asian culture and peoples which saw their subjugation in American foreign and domestic policy between 1885-1952. In this entry, we see a clear leaning into the 'Cool Japan' aesthetic by the Kimonope's designer, who is not shockingly not Japanese, but Israeli and therefore represents ideas about what Kimono are to this designer than the genuine article would to other participants of KTC, foreigner or otherwise towards 'Kimono'.

#22 Uno Chiyo --- This essay explores the work of Uno Chiyo (1897-1996) as a Kimono Designer. Uno was a prolific 20th century Japanese writer and designer. As such, Uno was familiar and fluently versed in KTC throughout her life. Uno founded the influential Style which was in circulation in Japan from 1936-1959.[1] Uno was heavily influenced by Western and Genroku fashion, and focused her aesthetic on these two whilst encouraging masculine and secondhand consumer habits in her approach to Kimono as a fashionable and modern pursuit. Uno provides a fascinating glimpse into a time before Kimono were stigmatized and were instead merged with Yofuku to inform Japanese identity and femininity in new and stylish publications and normoactivities.

#23 Franco-American Singer Dynasty and their Kimonopes - Winnaretta Singer (1865-1943) and Daisy Marguerite Séverine Philippine Decazes de Glücksberg Fellowes (1890-1962) were both American-French socialites, who interacted in many ways with the white elites of the American-French fashion industries. They were heavily complicit in the racist structures and depiction of Kimono as for the 'yellow peoples', with Winnaretta implicitly using Kimono to benefit from racist tropes and imperialism in her career as a painter. This is part of a broader tradition of the French Orientalism genre which would give rise to the Madame Chrysanthemum trope a few years after Winnaretta's use of the Kimonope, in 1883. Daisy, her neice would use these tropes in her time at Harpers Bazaar from 1933-1935, displaying the same ideas about people of colour and their cultural traditions throughout the 20th century as found in her social peers.

#24 Sadayakko - Sadayakko was an actress, performer, artist, globetrotter, judoka, muse, rider, teacher, theatre kid, proprietor, stage manager, project manager, business owner, patron, polygamist and traditional artisan. Sadayakko was highly regarded Beauty and upper class artisan in Japan, living in Tokyo in the beginning of her life and the palace upon her retirement, who established Kimono Textile Culture as Beautiful in countries outside Japan in the Meiji and Edwardian Period. Sadayakko was an influential fashion influencer in the realm we will be discussing of how her influence was received in the Global North, unfortunately principally in her lifetime as the embodiment of the French originating Orientalist fantasy of the Lotus Blossom stereotype, with the Kimono's place in that. The Kimono becoming a sign of subservience and social defilement in it's usage by French, Italian and American depictions in the early 20th century.

Social Links

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https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav 

https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw 

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/ 


Work

 Work has decided that for some reason, both this and next weekend have workdays on the weekend so Ive taken the opportunity to get my life-...