Elizabeth I created a standard for portraiture in the Early Modern English age of the artform of portraiture. Remember that the time when the paintings were created was often after death or around specific large events as the creation of anything bigger than a palimpsest book or illustrated biblical pocketbook was a marvel given the distance that the ingredients and materials required to create these works travelled and in the circumstances under which they were created. Portrait miniatures were often instead the primary visual medium at the time, not the grand canvas and tapestry scales many royal portraits took in this time. These were created specifically to conjure an idea of grandeur, majesty and awe. Portrait minatures were successfully launched to England by Levina Teerlinc (c.1510-1576) from illuminated manuscript production under the workshop of her continental Dutch father and prior artists who had dabbled after 1450 in some miniatures. She and Esther Inglis, as well as Thomas Hilliard are widely known as some of the more popular portrait miniaturists of the Elizabethan and Tudor court periods.
Sunday, February 9, 2025
Elizabeth I Portraiture | Musings
Sunday, April 28, 2024
にぶたにあっつし | Nibutani-attushi | Place where Wood Bark grows quickly Cloth | Fabrics #24
Nibutani-attushi is a fabric made from tree bark. Nibutani originates from the Ainu word (Niputai) translating to 'a land where the trees grow thickly' apparently.[1] The bark fiber is grown and harvested next to Biratori, Hokkaido by Ainu communities.[1] The bark is harvested and fiber contents scrapped from the interior layers of wild Manchurian elms in length strips. These strips then are left to dry and boiled with wood ash. The contents are removed in a sinewy like density, into thin strips of fiber content from the boiled bark and left to dry for 2 weeks.[1] These fiber contents are then left into very thin sheets and turned into 2mm threads. These tiny fiber contents are then woven into thread using a Attushi Karape which is a type of weaving loom perhaps, which uses a lot the dynamics of gravity to put weight on the warp and weft threads when weaving.[1] This is different from Honshu looms, as 2 people are required to operate the weaving process, and is a descendant of the Koshibata (back strap loom).[1] This craft has been produced as a traditional heritage craft since the early 20th century, around the first quarter of the 1900s.[1] The fabric is used for Kimono, Hanten (short coats), aprons, and accessories.[1]
Nibutani-attushi was originally made as a durable fabric for family members of the Ainu, this is most likely centuries before the 18th century when the first recognition of the craft was known to local literary languages. Later on down the line, Japanese merchants adopted the fabric and it became known throughout Honshu by the 18th century.[1] Formal written records date this to around 1792.[1] By this time, the Ainu seem to have been due to a lack of access to the sea perhaps, going to the land to produce goods to sell to make their living.[1] This state of affairs would continue into the 20th century, when the craft was recognised by the Heritage Craft associations of Honshu, and then began to boom as an artisan production by the middle of the century. Nibutani crafting became a viable business in the 1950s and the craft went into mass production. These fabrics were some of the first tangible properties in Hokkaido to be designated as such in 2013.[1]
Bibliography
[1] https://kogeijapan.com/locale/en_US/nibutaniattoushi/
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Sunday, December 11, 2022
ひとめ刺し | Hitomezashi | Single Stab Stitch | Pattern #16
Hitome-sashi/zashi (One Stab Stitch) is a type of Sashiko stitching.[1] Sashiko stitching being the famous white on blue technique of almost embroidery. The stitch makes up a geometric pattern from these white running stitches, sometimes wide sometimes miniscule to decorate or repair fabrics in a grid pattern.[2] As a task, Sashiko is said to be both therapeutic and time-consuming requiring a great deal of patience and concentration. Hitomezashi derives mostly from the practical applications of Sashiko and therefore was historically used for work uniforms, today it is mostly for repairing old clothstuffs. Many older examples come from Noragi ( 野良着 | Workcoats) and Sashiko no Donzu (Fishermens coats) that have survived.[4]
Hitomezashi was originally used by Heimin as a way to mend old farming and fishermens textiles like Hemp or Ramie from the North of Japan, from around the Yamagata to Hokkaido areas.[1][4] Items started out life as Kosode, then became bags, aprons and cleaning rags.[4] Between 1600 - 1850, a majority of the working classes produced their own textiles due to the expense of buying new fabrics. It is thought that decorative stitches such as Hitomezashi originated as an ergonomic way to mend, fill in and layer fabrics for winter, becoming decorative through processes such as Tsukuroi-Sashi ( 繕いー刺し|Darning Sashiko) by using undyed thread and repeatedly Darning older textiles into new ones every year. These skills were taught in school and at home to the children of farmers and fishermen.[4] Hitomezashi also spread around Japan byway of major trade routes like the Tokaido.[2][3]
During the Meiji period with the increase of Japan Inc, Japanese culture spread globally. Thus when agricultural workers moved to Hawaii, they took Hitomezashi with them, using it to repair their work clothes there, spreading the textile.[5] It may have also spread to Continental North America and other countries in the British Empire as it was popular during the 70's and 80's to adopt Japanese adjacent techniques among the middle class as an domestic Aestheticism (1868-1899) embroidery technique. In Japan with the promulgation of the industrialization efforts of Meiji Japan, Japan Inc. began to introduce new fabrics by 1870, making cotton available for those in Northern Japan.[3] In 1884, 'Sanitary Dress' was sent by the Japanese Government to display Health in the Workplace at the Health Exhibition. In the Exhibition (likely Hitomezashi), Sashiko was displayed to showcase how Mens uniforms (Hakama) were made in Japan.[6]
By the beginning of the 20th century however, Hitomezashi began to fall out of usage in favour of modern textiles flashy textiles. Meisen became more popular and workwear often became Tsumugi and other wools as Japan Inc expanded in the 1910s and 20s.[7] Whilst Hitomezashi fell out of widespread use by the 1950s due to the import of quilting, older generations still held onto and used the technique. Northern Japanese communities still practice and teach Sashiko classes, a practice around since at least the 1990s. In the modern day, Kogin (another type of Sashiko) developed from Hitomezashi stitch.[4]
Bibliography
[1] Sashiko 365: Stitch a new sashiko embroidery pattern every day of the year, Susan Briscoe, 2022, p.5 | https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=fyqdEAAAQBAJ&pg=PT6&dq=sashiko+farmers&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjp59Wyhe37AhWPSMAKHdO4BtQQuwV6BAgKEAc#v=onepage&q=sashiko%20farmers&f=false
[2] https://www.athreadedneedle.com/blogs/with-a-threaded-needle/sashiko-kogin-hitomezashi-boro-what-are-we-stitching
[3] Sashiko Pattern Book for Beginners: A Japanese Embroidery Art of Stitching, Angela Kemp, 2010, pp.10-11
[4] The Ultimate Sashiko Sourcebook: Patterns, Projects and Inspirations, Susan Briscoe, 2016, pp.8-15
[5] Japanese Immigrant Clothing in Hawaii 1885-1941, Barbara F. Kawakami, 1995
[6] Health Exhibition Literature, Executive Council of the International Health Exhibition, Council for the Society of the Arts, 1884, p.605 | https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=2fYTAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA605&dq=sashiko&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiTptDkm-37AhUxTEEAHbStBKcQuwV6BAgEEAY#v=onepage&q=sashiko&f=false
[7] See Fabrics #5
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Sunday, March 13, 2022
浅井 了意 | Asai Ryoi | 1612-1691 | Essay #13
This essay will explore the legacy of Asai Ryoi on KTC. Who was Asai Ryoi you may ask? Only one of the most important writers for the Ukiyo genre. Asai Ryoi ( active 1661-1691 | 浅井 了意 ) was a prolific Ukiyo-zoshi ( Books of the floating world | 浮世草子 ) or Kana-zoshi ( Heimin Japanese Books | 仮名草子 ) writer.[1] His leading 1661 publication, lambasted and satirized Buddhism and Samurai culture of restraint in favour of the Chonin lifestyle of worldy excess.[1]
Ukiyo
Kanazoshi celebrated contemporary urban life. It was Ryoi's Ukiyo Monogatari ( Tales of the Floating World | 浮世物語 | 1661 ) which saw Buddhism infused using the Kanazoshi genre. The writing term Ukiyo, ( Transitory World | 浮世 ) describes the homophone allusion to the Buddhist Ukiyo ( The Sorrow filled World | 憂き世 ) which describes what Buddhist call Dukkha ( Suffering ) under Impernance ( Mujyou | 無常 ) due to the ongoing nature of change in human lives.[2] This was essentially a tongue-in-cheek way of pointing out how in this transitory world of suffering due to change in human lives, and therefore you should live a decadent lifestyle to cope with all of the Dukkha. Buddhists would say otherwise though, as they generally lived as Ascetics, not as Decadents.[1]
Ukiyo Zoshi
The Ukiyo-Zoshi genre came about due to Ryois 1661 Monogatari which questioned the real value between leading an ascetic lead and decadent lifestyle and as to how best understand the meaning of the mortal and immortal realm of what Buddhism termed the ultimate goal of reaching the Pure Land or Buddha-field ( Jyoudo | 浄土 ).[3] It is important to understand the man, because it was this framework which launched this genre, Japans first major popular genre of literature.[4]
This framework was a lauded response to the major problems faced by Japanese society at the time. After the tumultuous period of civil war which Japan had just left, the Japanese found themselves in a new era of peace. As Sankin Kotai had moved the Heimin, created the Chonin, and uprooted the Samurai, Japanese society had a more stable economy and thus more leverage as a society for great numbers of people to have a greater quality of life. As such, decadence became more prevalent. It was in this newly peaceful world that values began to brought into the spotlight and new ethics and morals brought by emigrant Heimin; and more available to us, Chonin; who decided which of these where more important than others.
As such, Ukiyo-Monogatari reflects this new impetus by a form of archival liberation[5] of the Buddhist teachings. Ryoi attempts to reflect on what would later be codified as the Mono-no-aware theme which reflects on the beauty found in the passing of time and its transitory nature. His main character even through his decadent lifestyle, still finds Enlightenment by the end of the tale. It was this which gave the impetus for kindling the 'rightness' we can say, of the Chonin in their ways and wiles as being as valid as the ascetic monk and the upright retainer. It was this narrative of Enlightened Chonin pockets, that Saikaku would run with by creating the formal conventions of the genre on the back of Ryois and earlier trashier works 'critiquing' womens appearance between 1640-1650, by 1685.
Kambun Komin KTC
As part of Kambun KTC, we can also see the emergence of the material effects of the rise of the living standards for Chonin. As the Stabilisation policies brought economic prosperity to those previously living in poverty, they and their children enjoyed increasingly the fruits of this closed economy. This included an increased patronage of 'Japanese' artists such as the Machi-Eshi for those with means, and Komin or artist-craftsmen for the rest. This development came after 1639 through Sakoku, and saw a shift from dirty 'foreign' styles towards conservative styles, in painting this was the Fuzokuga-E depictions of Buddhist scenes for example rather the Kano Byobu of the Nanbanjin traders (made from 1590-1630).[6]
The 1650s in particular saw a rise in art patronage of worldly pursuits.[6] That decade was defined by the struggle between the Komin like Iwasa Matabei (1578-1650) who existed between the brush and reality, and the samurai ruling class who sought to impose their moral codes onto the new money crowd. By the Kambun era though, the pursuit of erotic Kabuki dancers, the newly established Yuujo quarters all wrapped up in a Kimono Obi was a public affair as it seems the Chonin had become increasingly tired of hearing how salvation (Buddhahood) only came to the wealthy military elites. Over the period, the hypocritical nature of this state of a hyperfocus on the elite courts practiced since the Heian period began to shift in favour of creating a standard for the everyday person. And as the saying goes, you write about what you know first.
Their later Kambun beauty standards, as espoused in the Kambun Bijin, were in flux between this convergence of reconciling conservative Japanese Buddhist and Confucious values, with the new money lifestyle which the elites practiced themselves only to deny the Heimin. In this light, the Heimin seems to have seen fit to find Enlightenment in the arms of their Kagema or Wakashu in Yoshiwara, just as the lord found his in his Wakashu. The Heimin art of this period is truly a wonderful mess, like a teenager trying to find their way through puberty, it reflects a series of confusions of intentions, directions and solidarity of style. However by the middle of the decade, Kambun style begins to emerge in the hands of Komin-Chonin of publishers and illustrators like Hishikawa Moronobu (1618-1694), Kambun Master (act. 1661-1673) and Yoshida Hanbei (c.1664-1692).[7]
With Heimin now running the show as the merchant classes, their handiwork began to rewrite the beauty standards and it is during the Kambun period with which the rules for KTC begin to be liberally rewritten. Their earlier incarnation, the Dress Manual, often gives away the acceptability politics game wealtheir Chonin played by, and other more artistic ventures done by the Komin-Chonin types reveals this shift towards Heimin worldview as the new standard. This standard often incurred the pursuit of those erotic Kabuki dancers and the Yuujo, particularly Tayuu as models. The fashions worn by these androgynous figures however, were made by those Komin-Chonin figures such as Hanbei, Moronobou and Asai Ryoi.
The Ryoi Enso
Enso are those non-complete Zen calligraphy circles you find labelled in pretentious Japanese art collections which simply put are an appreciation of when the hand has been allowed to wander in a circular form void of all worldly thought. The Ryoi Enso is that by the time society had come to grasp the inherent dual nature of Ukiyo Monogatari, the ineffable nature later to be called Mono-no-Aware had coem to be attached to many material things as an extension of the appreciation of transience in the human life. Objects had being given new meaning and understanding. Just as finding in watching passing Blossoms fall that this was beautiful, Objects had come to be appreciated as part of this new moral understanding of the physical world. The Japanese public had by 1670 also realised that Worldly material objects were also Mujyou, and this was celebrated.
As a material object, Kimono were also Mujyou, and thus the Kosode as an art object was born. Finding beauty in the transitory nature of textiles gave designers, craftsmen and artists overlap as was only seen before for the patronage of the Machi-Eshi. This work was now in the worldly domain of the Komin, such as Ryoi who interpreted this new Mujyou Art Object as it was now understood, through their Heimin lifestyles. Work was commissioned by Ryoi's own patrons in his own hand for his Shinsen O-Hiinagata, which captures the prototypes of what these Ukiyo or Urban lifestyles offerred. Artists saw Kimono now as an extension of their own imperment lives, a Mujyou canvas so to speak.
These art Kimono obviously still reflected the transient nature which had preceded them of course, and this is what I mean when I refer to the messiness of the Art Kimono. The Art Kimono, like Aesthetic dress, had to conform to the pre-existing silhouette at first, however the fabrics and aesthetics such as Ma in composition, and devlopment for Kimono of motifs as an extension of Mujyou, show us how the Art Kimono of the Kambun period came to be. As we see in Ryoi's work, the two-tone is still clearly prominent given the date, but the designs displayed are pushed to the right, a sign of good luck, and incorporate tacky motifs such as calligraphy and oversized motifs in the case of the Chrysanthemum.[9]
Into the future
This lifestyle of Ukiyo or Chonin decadence had by this time moved over into money laundering schemes to combat sumptuary laws making art Kimono. Art Kimono can be pinpointed to the late Kambun era specifically as it is in this juncture when we see the greatest proliferation of Kosode sample books, Hinagata Bon and how existing Kimono design shifts to favour popular designs made popular by the masses rather than the ruling military elites who would have been the only group to have access to funds to make wide reaching purchases of lavish materials and skilled workers beforehand in any realistic amount. Fashionable Kosode for Heimin before this time, consisted of two tone patterns. By 1672, this had changed to favour styles like the Osaka Genroku Bijin, which saw drastic changes to the composition of Kimono, acceptable aesthetical influences, motifs, colours and techniques to design KTC with.
[Before] the Kambun era (1661-1673) Kosode were generally two colours and woven with metallic thread and goldleaf. During the introduction of foreign textiles and rise of the new middle classes from the import of cotton and sarasa, tastes, colour schemes and bank balances changed. B[etween 1665-]1684, the colour schemes of Kosode worn by the townspeople and [elites] became darker at the bottom, lighter at the top, to show off wealth as darker Kosode meant more dye, which required deep pockets [...] worn by Chonin wives, well paid Kabuki performers, and the Tayuu which became 'Iki' (1680s sexy). Popular dark dyes included Beni reds (amongst samurai) / Nise-kurenai (fake/ Dutch reds for the rest) and purples. [...] Regular women would simply don striped variations, or indigo Kimono [with] singular motifs, and both would go decorate their Kosode with wordly scenes, so scenes of the city. [...] Provincial districts and merchants now set the new standard, with Osaka frequently overtaking Kyoto artwares as fashionable. The Kosode of the Genroku Bijin [...] would often have use[d] new technologies to create vivid, wordly scenery on their kosode [with] Onnagata and Tayuu were often seen in these styles. Younger and poorer women [were found] sticking to older Kosode fabrics such as hemp, striped cottons, linens, ramie, plant fibres or indigos with layered recycled fabrics involving the Sashiko stitch (Stab stitch). They indeed often made their own Kosode, and by the middle of the 17th century weaving was a valuable skill for rural women. [8]
Aesthetical Enlightenment
This we can contextually see, resulted in what may be termed the Mono-no-aware Kimono. I dont say Kosode, but rather to refer to this being how we result from the pre-Kambun two tone Kosode to by the end of the era, the polychromatic and compositionally shifted Art Kosode as a reflection of a journey in the shift in though which Ryoi begins in his Ukiyo Monogatari. That is an awareness in Kambun KTC for the need to have a change in physical appearance to reflect Buddhist sensibilities in dress, in showing the transition of dress as a practicality in the Sengoku Jidai, to one of fashion for everyday people in these times of stable prosperity.
Kosode were created in response to the dawning realisation that Buddhist aesthetics under Japanese notions, stressed the issue of Impermanence. Kimono were seen as an extension of the human existence, as they were tangible objects created around humans. They were therefore part and parcel of Dukkha, and should be experienced as such as part of this. Artists gave rise to this in their creation of Mujyou inspired designs in their Pattern Books, which inadvertently created fashion contrary to that of the stingy conservative Dress Manual. It was this shift in thinking about material life and objects, which saw the transformation of Decadent textiles into the Kosode as Art by appreciating that textiles were also Mujyou, and that each component of their construction and use was also Mujyou in creating the Kambun KTC Art Kimono, based on the Asai Ryoi Ukiyo framework to reach Englightenment.
Bibliography
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asai_Ry%C5%8Di
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impermanence and also see the Glossary
[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pure_land
[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ukiyo-z%C5%8Dshi
[5] See the Glossary
[6] See Bijin #9
[7] See Essay #8
[8] See Bijin #3
[9] https://blogs.bl.uk/asian-and-african/2020/02/exquisite-patterns-japanese-textile-design-books.html
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Sunday, August 22, 2021
アフタヌーンティーのために身に着けられているガウン | The Tea Gown | 1870-1910 | Essay #6
This essay will cover the aspects of how 19th century Japanese import textiles to Western countries were used and repurposed, as well what their desirability tells us about how Japanese design was regarded and the image which these people held of Japan through the Western lense and consciousness. This follows the progression of how Kimono can be used in the West from the undress of the 1860s, adapting silk bolts in the 1870s to high fashion western daywear, to the 1880s aesthetic movement and 1890 wholesale adoption in the Victorian age to being used prominently by society hostesses as tea gowns by the Edwardian period, and the subsequent change in Japanese export culture which we see in extant textile collections of Japanese textile in Western dresses of the periods.
The ritual of 'taking tea' began as part of the aristocratic notion of 'calling' in the 1860's.[5] Tea-gowns were originally interior dresses worn by British women in the 1870s around the parlor room. The term originated in the United Kingdom under the height of the British Empire, which at this time amongst the upper class begun to romanticise British traditions and culture, such as the habits and rituals of tea drinking, which formerly had been only a luxury the rich could afford to do. Rituals, like money, helped establish the pecking order and class structures, which is why the rich loved all these random acts of flamboyant dinner parties and expensive habits where they flaunted their wealth. One of these rituals was the elaboration of the hostess who often drew the center of attention at these afternoon tea parties.[4] As at this time womens domain was the domestic sphere, their front parlors therefore became a stage for hostesses to have fun in.
The image of Japan as a cool hip and trendy country began only by the late Meiji period. Before this Japanese imports were regarded, particularly in the United States, as cheap, low-grade items rather like textiles today made in countries like Bangladesh. This can be seen when we compare how well Japanese local textiles were recieved in the West which set off a flurry of copycat motif sewing, but in how badly recieved Japanese export 'Yokohama robes' were taken up in the West.
Beginning with the advent of Japonisme (coined in 1872) in France certainly, Japanese items began to become coveted, including textiles.[1] This was noted upon in Japan itself, which began curating exports for the western import markets. This in turn altered the perception of Japanese textiles which in the late 1870s were often high-grade exports to Western markets, by silk makers such as Shiino Shobei (1839-1900) from 1873. Japanese textiles suddenly became from this point on regarded as an extension of the exotic East, Japan particularly producing the artistic products of this Eastern bloc which often piggy-backed Japonaiserie with Chinoiserie. This expounded from artists such as Turdman (1834–1903) and the dresses worn by women like Frances Dawson/Leyland (1834–1910), lady of the Leyland family who were known for their adoration of Japanese art (see the Peacock Room) and as Art patrons. In Britain, the 'Japan cult' took off at this time, who equated Japanese art with classical Hellenic art. It was this favoured nation status (history pun) which made the loose form and Japanese art coalesce by 1875 in the popular Victorian conscious by the actions of the promotion of wealthy collectors such as the Leylands and the Ionides family in Britain who promoted artists such as Turdman (see Resource Page) and Thomas Jeckyll (1827-1881).
As you may have guessed, this was a more fashionable silhouette and association than the frumpy Yokohama Robe, with Japanese kimono being peiced apart and into day dresses by the likes of Misses Turner Court Dress Makers (active c.1870) in London, England, UK.[10] Other proponents of the style of loose clothing included Ellen Terry, who had been introduced to the Kimono by her Japanophile husband, Edward William Godwin (1833-1886) c1866-69.[13] By 1878, 5 o'clock tea became a principal part in an Englishwomans social calendar, as a break between lunch at 12AM and the evening meal at 8PM.[6] This schedule gave women the ability to build their social networks, and to show off how well their fashionable decorum and tastes were displayed both in the home and dress, which was particularly important in the dawning of the Aesthetic Movement. By this time, dress had become increasingly codified, which saw hostesses wearing dresses in an increasing state of undress, and guests who had 'called' at the home for tea to keep on gloves and hats which gave rise to finger sandwiches.[4] Female guests often attended multiple 'calls' in one day for afternoon tea, which birthed the tea-gown.
By 1880, British fashion saw the rise of the aesthetic and dress reform movements which preferred loose-fitted moderate styles of dress in womens garments, most likely from the influence of the Pre-Raphelites Artists depictions of their wives and lovers. Characteristically, the tea gown by now therefore had no cinched waist, was loose fitting and worn over other garments and used for when other people were visiting their homes or households to take afternoon tea at around 3-5PM. By this time, middle class women had begun introducing afternoon tea to their social calendars, which unlike invited upper class guests, was a more open affair where complete strangers were welcomed into the home for an hour or so to enjoy tea with the hostess.
With the rise of the aesthetic movement, Japonaiserie stirred the intellectual and the average consumer of the time equally. Japan was seen solely through an aesthetical lense. This made anything with an origin from Japan of interest to the average customer, rather than just to Japanophiles.[3] As such, rarer items such as the Kimono and silk bolts became desirable. They were sold from 1884 (from 1863 in a seperate Liberty warehouse) at Libertys Costume department store.[8] Among the Japonistas of the 19th century, many were domestic middle class sewers. This resulted in a proliferation of Japan themed books, objects and entertainment such as The Mikado which first premiered in London in 1885 led to the success of the adoption of a foreign garment by Western women in their daily routines as British and Western wear. Popular motifs included birds and flowers at this time. Certainly by 1887, it was key to incorporate artistic (Greek, Chinese and Japanese) influences into intimate tea parties by hostesses.[4] Designers such as the pioneering and founder of couture Charles Frederick Worth (1825-1895) brought asymmetry in dress pattern design, including Japanese motif such as the rising sun into high society acceptability in this decade.[14]
Under the influence of men like Oscar Wilde, Frederick Sandys and the Leylands, Japanese art became an influential proponent and signifier of taste in high Victorian society, marrying the Japanese textile and art with the tea gown. By the 1890's, Kimono had become immensely popular and were extolled in womens magazines and society journals. They were particularly garnered for their versatility in being open and well ventilated garments as they were worn or draped by western women as tea-gowns.[9] Popular motifs included flowing water, birds (often plover and swallow), fans, flowers (blossoms, chrysanthemums, bamboo leaves, lilies), fruits (peaches) and fish.[2][4][14] Fanny Douglas in 1895 says that particularly large Japanese motifs on tea-gowns were becoming of high society ladies at the time.[7] Gowns were also made asymmetrically, a proponent learned by western designers during the Japan cult years, with other garments such as Obi used in the construction of Bustles for example. Gowns frequently allowed all of these to creep into modern daywear and Japanese textiles saw the light of day in western society.[4]
By the Edwardian period, Kimono as tea-gowns were all the rage. If you could not afford to buy a Kimono, then the common motifs were instead sewn onto western textiles instead.[2] By 1901, the tea-gown silhouette and style had begun to move into the public sphere.[4] Lingerie dresses and Kimono become recognised as a staple of the tea-party, and were worn regularly and seen as functioning in the realm of high fashion. These were often overlaid by Kimono, which may have been worn as dressing gowns, coats or wraps. They were commonly by now available from shops like Liberty in London or from Japanese companies such as Iida Takashimaya & Co (active 1831-1913).[10][11][12] Artists such as Kawakami Sadayakko (1871-1946) and the performance of the Darling of the Gods in 1903 in London also promoted Japanese Kimono. The House of Babini in France also became famous from selling cultural appropriation from 1905 on.[14] Due to Japans rising status as the only Asian great power equal to Great Britain, the Statesians, Russia and France between its victory over Russia in 1905 and as a victor in WWI, it became acceptable for Westerners to buy, sell and wear Japanese textiles which by now had a reputation for their durability, hardiness, beauty, culture and refinement which was a world away from the expectations of westerners of the flimsy quality of Japanese silk and the 'barbarity' of minimal tailoring westerners presumed of Kimono in the 1860s.[4][10]
In conclusion therefore we see how the Kimono and the Tea gown became close allies in the Victorian and Edwardian womans wardrobe. In the evolution of this merger, from 1860-1870 this saw the rise of silk textile export and incorporation into the western wardrobe through the art patronage of the Ionides and Leyland families who promoted Japanese art in British society. By 1880 with the rise of the aesthetic movement and wider acceptance of brighter colours and visibility, aesthetic dress began to celebrate Japanese culture as part of the tea-gown with the combination of the Leyland dress silhouette and appreciation of Japan from the Japan cult of the previous decade. By the 1890s, this clearly shows in the wear of Japanese motif and silk tea-gowns, and the accepted custome of wearing Kimono in the home. With this context, Japanese textiles and Kimono became valuable in the West because of their beauty, and later their affiliation by British and by extension western, audiences with art, culture and by the Edwardian era, the production of a great power as stylish day and afternoon dress and dress materials. Kimono as such wear both worn, deconstructed and inspired British fashion between 1860-1910, particularly in their adoption in crafting the tea-gown.
Essay #7 will cover the use of Kimono amongst the Pre-Raphaelites.
Bibliography
[1] http://www.visual-arts-cork.com/history-of-art/japonism.htm
[2] https://mimimatthews.wordpress.com/2016/03/29/japonisme-the-japanese-influence-on-victorian-fashion/?preview_id=10191&preview_nonce=614a9f7d5b&post_format=standard&preview=true
[3] The West in Asia and Asia in the West, Elisabetta Marino, Tanfer Emin Tunc, 2015, p.169
[4] Victorian Tea Gowns : A Case of High Fashion Experimentation, Vol. 44 No.1, Anne Bissonnette, 2018, pp.3-22, The Journal of the Costume Society of America
[5] Social Customs, Florence Howe Hall, 1887, p.121, Boston
[6] Five O’clock Tea, Housewife, 20 June 1878, p.489, The Queen or The Lady's Newspaper & Court Chronicle
[7] The Gentlewoman's Book of Dress, Fanny Douglas, 1895, p.37
[8] https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1898-tea-gown/
[9] https://lilyabsinthe.com/category/fashion-history/japonisme/
[10] http://costume.mini.icom.museum/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2020/08/9.-Kimono-for-the-Western-Market_-Two-Women-Two-Kimono-by-Cynthia-Amn%C3%A9us.pdf
[11] https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search#!?q=Iida%20%26%20Co.%2FTakashimaya&perPage=20&sortBy=Relevance&offset=0&pageSize=0
[12] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Takashimaya
[13] The Story of My Life, Ellen Terry, 1908, p.85
[14] https://cyclicity.net/2020/12/17/japonisme-in-fashion/
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