Her Haughtynesses Decree

Showing posts with label CulturalAppreciation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label CulturalAppreciation. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 19, 2024

やん りべん | Yan Liben | 600 CE - 673 CE | Bijin #24

Yan Liben (c. 600–673) was a Tang dynasty painter who we can point to as a genuine Tang artefact creative. Liben was sandwiched between the archetypal artwork figures of Gu Kaizhi (345-406 CE) and Zhou Fang (730-800 CE) during a time of greater acceptance of foreign influnces from Mahayana Buddhism and the incorporation of female divinity figures in art.[1][7] This particular Bijin or Meiren post examines the Buddhist Guan Yin connection to the ruling elite known to us as the Rouged Bijin who employed Buddhism, such as Wu Zetian to enact the creation of the Drunken Lotus Beauties of Zhou Fang. Liben is our intermediary guide throughout the Sui and early Tang Dynasty into the creation of Chinese Tang Beauty Standards into distinctively feminine lead and codified outer Mei, in a shift away from earlier Inner Mei beauty standards found in the patriarchal Metaphorical Beauty of the Lotus and Tacit Bijin. This saw a rise in feminine stories, poetry, roles and the importance of feminine aesthetic as a result, leading to the Golden Age of Classical Chinese Art which so inspired the Onna-E of Heian Japan.

Willow Guan Yin (PD) Yan Liben

I deeply apologise to myself for not meeting my own schedule, but as usual, life decided to get in the way. 

Art Theory on the Meiren

Art Scholars and Chinese Aestheticians held deeply patriarchal notions of beauty. Whilst men and non-binary figures could be considered beauties, to espouse this publicly would have have a big no-no. Instead beauty was said to only morally acceptable as Dai Mei, or Great Beauty from the Inside influenced by the Dao (Way) teachings. This being the Lotus Bijin who nonetheless was codified as a beauty, and this was translated into the poetry and Yuefu of the Han Dynasty in the Male version of reality. In actual reality, female beauty was cunningly hidden and celebrated in the Yuefu and everyday discourse (see Ye Xian for example). We known this because of evidence like Han burial tomb murals which whilst espousing these pious inner beauty mantras, rather heavily display visibly flamboyant outer beauty in sporadic feminine and male images to display their tomb owners wealth and taste.

However with exposure to outside influence and cultures (such as Buddhism) over the course of centuries beginning in the Han through to the Sui, these ideals began to change and developed into the Drunk Lotus Meiren type. The Drunken Lotus was a beauty who was enabled to exist as the power dynamics of the Tang leaned heavily into the female, drawing on the influence of Yuefu, Gongti and everyday styles of espousing beauty ideals to create the Tang beauty ideal immortalised by the later standards of Zhou Fang of plump, rounded red Chinese women and men.[2] Liben's works situates itself in the early transitory phase of the Tang and is therefore of interest to us of what proto-Meiren beauty standards would be for that time at the height of the golden age of Classical Chinese Art.

Yasodhara on right (2012, 2.0) Photo Dharma

Palace Figure painter

Liben is primarily known for his 13 emperor scroll and then the Lingyan Pavilion. In this capacity, he was known primarily in his lifetime for portrait and figure painting. Many of his figures were historical figures. Supposedly much of his work has been speculated to revolve around celestial and prophetic themes related to Chinese mysticism and Tang understanding of the cosmos. One of his works is found in the Mogao caves for example, which famously is known for its burial figures and for our purposes, Meiren.[1]

These portraits were often life size, but not life-like. Whilst women at the timer were still considered property to be bought and sold, they most certainly held sway over 'men' who were mostly only capable of 'boy stuff'.[2] Increasingly, this meant depicting figures such as gods of war attendants as female, and appropriating the tales of female figures in foreign cultures and religions such as Yasodhara to express the 'boy stuff' women were capable of, and most often just did.[2] It was in the 5th century about that the testosterone wore off long enough for stability to come about, enabling the arts to enter an age of flourishing which would become the golden age of Chinese art.[1]

Liben was a heavily involved palace official. His family grew up in Chang'an surrounded by the best the current emperor had to offer in Art. The entire Liben family had artistic bents, mostly with a focus on architecture. Liben's early years were spent in the service of the Emperor working with his elder brother on palace architectural commissions, heavily involving tombs which may have influenced his themes focusing on the afterlife and heaven and the stars in his later years. The bent of his beauties is both a conundrum of the feminine, masculine and androgynous. His work may particularly understood of his early work, as being informed by the Metaphorical Beauty standards of Kaizhi, but comes with the caveat of being made during a time most of his audience and patrons may have been female.[1]

Guan Yin

Many examples of female figures are extant by Liben, but this is the Bijin series so I have focused on his Guan Yin depiction. Guan Yin is a Bodhisattva associated with compassion. It is believed in Mahayana Buddhism, which is practised in China, Tibet, Vietnam and Cambodia, that Guan Yin is a highly influential Bodhisattva, or one who has abstained from Buddhahood to teach enlightenment throughout Samsara to widen the Sangha. Guan Yin is said to place the dying into the heart of a lotus and send them on to the Western Pure Land (Sukhāvatī). Guan Yin or Avalokitasvara (a borrowing from Sanskrit into Traditional Chinese) is depicted as female in East Asian Buddhism, in Japan as Kannon and Korea as Gwaneum. The Chinese translation roughly connotes 'The One who Perceives the Cries of Beings in need of Help' to describe the Bodhisattva role Guan Yin carries in the Lotus Sutra, Chapter 25 as bearer of humans to the Pure Land at the Tenth Bhumi (state of consciousness, closest one to Buddhahood).[4] The famous Mantra, Aum mani padme hum (Praise to the jewel in the lotus) refers to Guan Yin's work in this capacity.[3]

It is said that in certain cannon, Guan Yin attained Buddhahood before Gautama (the popular one) and stayed back just to let others also attain enlightenment, which is were the compassion element of Guan Yin's character traits come in. Other texts describe incarnations as the Great Protector of all sentient beings and Great Contemplator.[3] Indian sites of Buddhahood are said to be Mount Potalaka, in Chinese Buddhism it is said that Guan Yin reached enlightenment around Mount Putuo where Liben's Guan Yin lies in situ.[3][4] Guan Yin as understood in Liben's time certainly was what we today know as genderfluid.[4] The Lotus sutra, then a relatively new introduction to a new religion for many given the introduction of Buddhism in 150 CE to China from India/Nepal made Guan Yin a popular figure among men and women, particularly the elites of Sui Dynasty Imperial China.[4]

Genderfluid Guan Yin (c.916 CE, CC2.0) Tengu800

Liben's Guan Yin is most likely male oriented as a beauty and it is interesting in this sense that Guan Yin is depicted in such a way. Liben's depiction has the trademark characteristics of a moral enlightened figure, long earlobes, elaborate headdress and focused eyes which look upon those in suffering. The more interesting aspect of Liben's mural is that of the decorative beauty standard elements. The many flying ribbons are highly linked to the Gui Yi (flying ribbon swallow tail style) popular in dynasties gone by and the rotund silhouette and half exposed chest. This more androgynous figure belies an understanding of the compassion of both masculine and feminine wiles, beset in Chinese beauty standards. And what looks like a pot belly, but equally is probably something more than that. Indeed it points to the link that in ode to the ruling female elites of the time; Wu Zetian (624-705 CE) for example; Liben's Guan Yin may have links to female Tibetan Buddhist figures such as Pāṇḍaravāsinī (पाण्डरवासिनी) an incarnation of a Vidyārājñī (Wisdom Queen) from 500 CE.[4][5]

In this way, we may understand Guan Yin as being revered by her female Chinese Buddhist devotees as a leader in the new understanding of female participation and almost emancipation of female liberty and embodied power. In this way, Liben's Guan Yin is not just a beautiful adrogynous figure, but a moral figure who bestows compassionate forgiveness upon the feminine, a byway allegory for the forgiveness of the feminine for the fragile male ego of the time to enable a greater overtaking and space for the feminine to exist in public. In other words, Guan Yin was a stand-in figure of beauty and a precursor or proto-Meiren figure which female devotees and patrons could lavish their adorations upon to develop their pent up frustations, wordly desires and needs whilst being safely assumed to be forgiven and developing their ethical and moral endeavours. A sort of safe space mixed with a confession box for the early Drunk Lotus Beauty, bored Imperial Chinese housewife type.

Indeed Guan Yin in the hands of Liben becomes virtually feminine coded, given a sort of 'S-shape' which almost looks like a woman with a pregnant belly, hidden chest and attire worn mostly by women at the time.[7] Indeed it has been noted that from the this time, as evidenced by Liben's stele, Guan Yin was often depicted as feminine in that they often began depicting Guan Yin holding a willow branch to bolster the connotation of birth and rebirth, forgiveness and compassion with Guan Yin.[7] This combined with the flowing ribbons, jewels and fleshy face standard for women from Gongti poetry lead contemporary Chinese art critics to note Libens leaning to the feminine, a far cry from Kaizhis benevolvent women types which upheld the matron and aggressive stereotypes. The S shaped silhouette was introduced and with it came the influx of Zetian and feminine beauty standards as being in vogue.[7]

This gave rise to the popularity of offshoots of Bodhisattva Meiren figurine's and heroes affiliated with local pilgrimage sites which Guan Yin was said to have blessed, giving birth to their affiliated local heroines in the area. In this way we can clearly understand the motivations for Liben to paint a woman like figure in his stele. The Bodhisattva was uniquely made feminine coded in China to reflect the patronage of a female Emperor, who supposedly passionately watched down upon worldly beings and fostered their rebirth. Guan Yin was an androgynous beauty who surpassed the Inner Beauty and was a sort of Beauty Incarnate. A beauty who existed to spread beauty in the world.[8]

Bodhisattva Bijin

In context therefore, we can see how the evolution of Chinese Buddhist devotees understand Guan Yin to be a goddess of mercy and compassion. As an omniscient Bodhisattva, they are clearly a figure who women could certainly call upon in times of despair, fear and uncertainty to forgive their worldly material transgressions. Indeed Buddhist undertakings were often picked up by the Rouged Bijin in a bid to have a moral shield with which to battle the Metaphorical Damei of Kaizhi's Benevolent Women types. These were midway roles undertaken in the emancipation of beauty standards during the time of the push for outer beauty seen in the explicit work of Zhou Fang, in comparison to the moral work of Liben whose beauties often followed the beauty standards of the Gongti and Yuefu beauties of the day, e.g. Ye Xian, Xi Shi types who men may have ascribed to Inner beauty types, even if they worked as spies, protagonists and sex workers.[2] Instead Liben records for us the evolving acceptance of outer feminine beauty which the Tang roundly celebrated and which was given a moral gloss in the guise of Buddhism and other foreign influences to provide the basis for the creation of these mostly venerative and aesthetic images of beauty and bodily pleasures in sites and images like Liben's Guan Yin at Mount Putuo.[6][7]

Bibliography 

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yan_Liben

[2] See Bijin #20.

[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avalokite%C5%9Bvara

[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guanyin

[5] https://www.wisdomlib.org/definition/pandaravasini

[6] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Putuo

[7] Ambiguity of the Gender of Avalokiteśvara in the Sui-Tang period: A Comparative Study of India & China, Huang Lele, 2021, Volume 1, Number 1, Online, pp.31-42, Journal of History, Art and Archaeology, Academic Research Foundations India | See https://arfjournals.com/image/57413_4_huang.pdf

[8] Kuan yin ; The Chinese transformation of Avalokitesvara, Chün-fang Yü, 2001, pp.291-296

Bijin Series Timeline

11th century BCE

- The Ruqun becomes a formal garment in China (1045 BCE); Ruqun Mei

8th century BCE

- Chinese clothing becomes highly hierarchical (770 BCE)

3rd century BCE

Xi Shi (flourished c201-900CE); The (Drunken) Lotus Bijin

2cnd century BCE

        - The Han Dynasty

1st century BCE

Wang Zhaojun (active 38 - 31 BCE) Intermediary Bijin

0000 Current Era

1st century

        - Han Tomb portraiture begins as an extension of Confucian Ancestor Worship; first Han aesthetic                                scholars dictate how East Asian composition and art ethics begin

                       - Isometric becomes the standard for East Asian Composition (c.100); Dahuting Tomb Murals

                       - Ban Zhao introduces Imperial Court to her Lessons for Women (c106);                                                                    - Women play major roles in the powerplay of running of China consistently until 1000 CE, i                                        influencing Beauty standards

                       - Buddhism is introduced to China (150 CE)

                       - Qiyun Shengdong begins to make figures more plump and Bijin-like (c.150) but still pious

Diao Chan (192CE); The Outer Bijin

2cnd century

             - Yuefu folk ballads inspire desirable beauty standards of pining women ; Tacit Bijin

4th century

Gu Kaizhi (active 364-406); Metaphorical Beauty

        - Buddhism is introduced to Korea (c.372)

        - Chinese Artists begin to make aesthetic beauties in ethereal religious roles of heavenly Nymphs

                       - Luo River Nymph Tale Scroll (c.400)

          - Womens clothing emphasized the waist as the Guiyi (Swallow-Tail Flying Ribbons) style (c.400)

                       - Wise and Benevolent Women (c.400)

5th century

          - Chinese Art becomes decadent; Imperial Culture begins to see more expression in religious statues (c450)

                       - Longmen Grotto Boddhisattvas (471)

6th century

Xu Ling; (active 537-583); Terrace Meiren

7th century

            - Tang Dynasty Art (618-908)

           - Rouged Bijin (600-699 CE) https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty

Yan Liben (active 642-673); Bodhisattva Bijin

Wu Zetian (active 665-705); The Great Tang Art Patron [Coming Soon]

Asuka Bijin (c.699); The Wa Bijin

8th century

            - Princess Yongtai's Veneration Murals (701) [Coming Soon]

- Introduction of Chinese Tang Dynasty clothing (710)

- Sumizuri-e (710)

Yang Yuhuan Guifei (719-756); [Coming Soon] East Asian Supermodel Bijin https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/275768522.pdf https://factsanddetails.com/china/cat2/4sub9/entry-5437.html#chapter-5

            - Astana Cemetery (c.700-750) [Coming Soon]

Zhang Xuan (active 720-755); [Coming Soon]

- What is now Classical Chinese Art forms

                    - An Lushun Rebellion (757) 

 Zhou Fang (active 766-805) ; Qiyun Bijin

- Emakimono Golden Age (799-1400)

9th century

                       - Buddhist Bijin [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty#/media/File:Noble_Ladies_Worshiping_Buddha.jpg + https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mogao_Caves#/media/File:Anonymous-Bodhisattva_Leading_the_Way.jpg

                    - Gongti Revival https://www.jstor.org/stable/495525?seq=2#metadata_info_tab_contents

10th century

                       -End of Tang Art (907)

13th century

                     - Heimin painters; 1200-1850; Town Beauty

15th century 

- Fuzokuga Painting schools; Kano (1450-1868) and Tosa (1330-1690) 

Tang Yin (active 1490-1524); Chinese Beauties [Coming Soon] https://www.comuseum.com/painting/masters/tang-yin/ 

16 century 

- Nanbanjin Art (1550-1630) 

- Wamono style begins under Chanoyu teachings (c1550-1580)

- Byobu Screens (1580-1670)

 - End of Sengoku Jidai brings Stabilisation policy (1590-1615)  

17th century  

- Land to Currency based Economy Shift (1601-1655)

- Early Kabuki Culture (1603-1673) ; Yakusha-e or Actor Prints

- Machi-Eshi Art ( 1610 - 1710) ; The Town Beauty

- Sumptuary legislation in reaction to the wealth of the merchant classes (1604-1685) 

- Regulation of export and imports of foreign trade in silk and cotton (1615-1685)  

Iwasa Matabei (active 1617-1650) ; Yamato-e Bijin  

The Hikone Screen (c.1624-1644) [Coming Soon]

- Sankin-Kotai (1635-1642) creates mass Urbanisation  

- Popular culture and print media production moves from Kyoto to Edo (1635-1650); Kiyohara Yukinobu (1650-1682) ; Manji Classical Beauty

- Shikomi-e (1650-1670) and Kakemono-e which promote Androgynous Beauties;

 Iwasa Katsushige (active 1650-1673) ; Kojin Bijin

- Mass Urbanisation instigates the rise of Chonin Cottage Industry Printing (1660-1690) ; rise of the Kabunakama Guilds and decline of the Samurai

- Kanazoshi Books (1660-1700); Koshokubon Genre (1659?-1661)

- Shunga (1660-1722); Abuna-e

Kanbun Master/School (active during 1661-1673) ; Maiko Bijin 

- Hinagata Bon (1666 - 1850) 

- Ukiyo Monogatari is published by Asai Ryoi (1666) 

Yoshida Hanbei (active 1664-1689) ; Toned-Down Bijin

- Asobi/Suijin Dress Manuals (1660-1700)

- Ukiyo-e Art (1670-1900)

Hishikawa Moronobu (active 1672-1694) ; Wakashu Bijin

- Early Bijin-ga begin to appear as Kakemono (c.1672)  

- Rise of the Komin-Chonin Relationship (1675-1725)

- The transit point from Kosode to modern Kimono (1680); Furisode, Wider Obi 

- The Genroku Osaka Bijin (1680 - 1700) ; Yuezen Hiinakata

Fu Derong (active c.1675-1722) ; [Coming Soon] https://archive.org/details/viewsfromjadeter00weid/page/111/mode/1up?view=theater

Sugimura Jihei (active 1681-1703) ; Technicolour Bijin 

- The Amorous Tales are published by Ihara Saikaku (1682-1687)

Hishikawa Morofusa (active 1684-1704) [Coming Soon]

- The Beginning of the Genroku Era (1688-1704)

- The rise of the Komin and Yuujo as mainstream popular culture (1688-1880) 

- The consolidation of the Bijinga genre as mainstream pop culture 

- The rise of the Torii school (1688-1799) 

- Tan-E (1688-1710)   

Miyazaki Yuzen (active 1688-1736) ; Genroku Komin and Wamono Bijin 

Torii Kiyonobu (active 1688 - 1729) : Commercial Bijin

Furuyama Moromasa (active 1695-1748)

18th century

Nishikawa Sukenobu (active 1700-1750) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Ando (active 1700-1736) ; Broadstroke Bijin

Okumura Masanobu (active 1701-1764)

Kaigetsudo Doshin (active 1704-1716) [Coming Soon]

Baioken Eishun (active 1710-1755) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Anchi (active 1714-1716) [Coming Soon]

Yamazaki Joryu (active 1716-1744) [Coming Soon] | https://www.jstor.org/stable/25790976?seq=5

1717 Kyoho Reforms

Miyagawa Choshun (active 1718-1753) [Coming Soon]

Miyagawa Issho (active 1718-1780) [Coming Soon]

Nishimura Shigenaga (active 1719-1756) [Coming Soon]

Matsuno Chikanobu (active 1720-1729) [Coming Soon]

- Beni-E (1720-1743)

Torii Kiyonobu II (active 1725-1760) [Coming Soon]

- Uki-E (1735-1760)

Kawamata Tsuneyuki (active 1736-1744) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (1739-1820)

Miyagawa Shunsui (active from 1740-1769) [Coming Soon]

Benizuri-E (1744-1760)

Ishikawa Toyonobu (active 1745-1785) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Settei (active 1753-1787) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1756-1787) [Coming Soon]

Shunsho Katsukawa (active 1760-1793) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyoharu (active 1763-1814) [Coming Soon]

Suzuki Harunobu (active 1764-1770) [Coming Soon]

- Nishiki-E (1765-1850)

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1765-1815) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (active 1765-1820) [Coming Soon]

Maruyama Okyo (active 1766-1795) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Utamaro (active 1770-1806) [Coming Soon]

Kubo Shunman (active 1774-1820) [Coming Soon]

Tsutaya Juzaburo (active 1774-1797) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunimasa (active from 1780-1810) [Coming Soon]

Tanehiko Takitei (active 1783-1842) [Coming Soon]

Katsukawa Shuncho (active 1783-1795) [Coming Soon]

Choubunsai Eishi (active 1784-1829) [Coming Soon]

Eishosai Choki (active 1786-1808) [Coming Soon]

Rekisentei Eiri (active 1789-1801) [Coming Soon] [https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ukiyo-e_paintings#/media/File:Rekisentei_Eiri_-_'800),_Beauty_in_a_White_Kimono',_c._1800.jpg]

Sakurai Seppo (active 1790-1824) [Coming Soon]

Chokosai Eisho (active 1792-1799) [Coming Soon]

Kunimaru Utagawa (active 1794-1829) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyokuni II (active 1794 - 1835) [Coming Soon]

Ryūryūkyo Shinsai (active 1799-1823) [Coming Soon]

19th century

Teisai Hokuba (active 1800-1844) [Coming Soon]

Totoya Hokkei (active 1800-1850) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada Toyokuni III (active 1800-1865) [Coming Soon]

Urakusai Nagahide (active from 1804) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Tsukimaro (active 1804 - 1836)

Kikukawa Eizan (active 1806-1867) [Coming Soon]

Keisai Eisen (active 1808-1848) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kuniyoshi (active 1810-1861) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Hiroshige (active 1811-1858) [Coming Soon]

Yanagawa Shigenobu (active 1818-1832) [Coming Soon]

Katsushika Oi (active 1824-1866) [Coming Soon]

Hirai Renzan (active 1838ー?) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada II (active 1844-1880) [Coming Soon]

Yamada Otokawa (active 1845) [Coming Soon] | 山田音羽子 https://www.jstor.org/stable/25790976?seq=10

Toyohara Kunichika (active 1847-1900) [Coming Soon]

Kano Hogai (active 1848-1888) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Yoshitoshi (active 1850-1892) [Coming Soon]

Noguchi Shohin (active c1860-1917) [Coming Soon]

Toyohara Chikanobu (active 1875-1912) [Coming Soon]

Uemura Shoen (active 1887-1949) [Coming Soon]

Kiyokata Kaburaki (active 1891-1972) [Coming Soon]

Goyo Hashiguchi (active 1899-1921) [Coming Soon]

20th century

Yumeji Takehisa (active 1905-1934) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kotondo (active 1915-1976) [Coming Soon]

Hisako Kajiwara (active 1918-1988) [Coming Soon] https://www.roningallery.com/artists/kajiwara-hisako | https://www.jstor.org/stable/25790976

Yamakawa Shūhō (active 1927-1944) [Coming Soon]


Social Links

One stop Link shop: https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest

https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav 

https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw 

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/ 

Sunday, March 3, 2024

くぼたと辻が花 | Kubota to Tsujigahana | Kubota and Tsujigahana | Patterns #23

This patternseries I would like to try something a little different, and discuss the process behind the revival of the pattern tsujigahana, by its revivalist, Itchiku Kubota (1917-2003) in 1937. Itchiku Kubota was the artisan or Komin who was behind the work of recreating the arguably lost art of creating Tsujigahana ( 辻が花 | Flowers at the Crossroad ), which became his lifes work.[1] Kubota was a great crasftman outside of this feat, but his work and what inspired I thought might be of interest to people into what motivates people to preserve, relish and continue creating these 'traditional' crafts.

Kubota was born in 1917. He was the son of an antique dealer that resided in the traditional part of his neighbourhood. This would have been during the Taisho era (1912-1926) when a burgeoning domestic and foreign set of markets had opened up to the Japanese industries and on the tail-end of adopting Western customs, manners and attires. which destroyed much of traditional Japanese Arts and Crafts.[1] It may not have escaped his inquisitive eyes that much of this was particularly disappearing around him as he grew into his teenage years into a family of artisanally inclined people. Many of his neighbours were dye workshops, and we can presumably assume that this was were he first began to mix his family social capital inheritance of old artforms with his neighbourhood ties.[1]

In 1931 Kubota began an apprenticeship to Kobayashi Kiyoshi, whose workshop was known for its handmade Yuzen dye work. There Kubota began learning how to paint, dye and the traditional and perhaps contemporary Japanese design aesthetics such as landscape painting, portraiture and other traditional Kimono painting techniques. By 1936 he was considered good enough to establish and build his own dye studio.[1]

Presumably by this time as an established Kimono Komin and Designer, and with his family background in antiques began to search out inspiration and influences from centuries gone by. This took him to the Tokyo National Musuem where he first witnessed the then considered lost technique of design, Tsujigahana which was extant from the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568-1600).[1] At that time of 1937, Kubota was 20. This moment of witnessing such a beautiful moment frozen in time and interaction with the world external to the Museum inspired him to relaim the design into the modern day and age to be enjoyed once again, rather than to be locked away in a case as a lost relic of another time.

The design element of Tsujigahana was created in the time of the Muromachi period (1336-1573). The design of that time were heavily dependent on a kind of conservative tendency towards an almost Iki reading of Ashida-E, Onna-E types of artistic lineages of Art which were heavily image and symbol heavy. These resist dyes thus were able to evoke a heavy sense of narrative and storyworlds in their decoration and in a time which was heavily restrictive in literacy towards women and the lower classes, these textiles were lavishly and painstakingly created most likely by the affiliated workshops and Machi-Eshi Komin capable of working on these unique Tanmono wealthy families could afford, this being the wealthiest Sengoku Daimyo and the urban Chonin. By 1690 with the almost complete decline of Za guilds and the rise of Miyazaki Yuzen's moyo Tsujigahana fell into decline.

This is to my knowledge the most likely explanation as to why Tsujigahana fell out of favour by the later part of the Edo period and completely 'forgotten' by the Meiji (1868-1912). That being that the production of such a textile would have been a trade or workshop secret and therefore died out with its lineage creators, as otherwise a legacy form would still exist in the realm somewhere, in one form or another. This is pretty guaranteed due to the amount of decorative elements, a time-consuming and expensive dyes, metals and embroidery used in the creation of these garments which makes it unlikely that farmers would have been making and wearing these textiles to go rice farming in.[1] Almost as likely as wearing ballgowns to pick maize.

Returning to our protaganist, Kubota was fascinated the mystery of where and how this original technique had been lost. He was under its spell from that point on, making it his life's work to figure out the mystery of that lost technique.[1] Another layer to the fun, was that the silk to create the work was Nerinuki, an archaic textile no longer woven at the time. It would be this step to technique revival which would take decades of work for Kubota, presumably somewhat interrupted by the second world war. Evil Japanese officials ruined the progression of his work by drafting him, where he spent 3 years as POW from 1945-1948. Given the dates, it is most likely he was rather weak and unfit for military service, but at the time Japanese army officials were not particularly picky, sending children and the elderly to fight what was for them another rich mans war. Indeed, it was during this time that Japan's new Constitution declared Japan to be unable to go to war unless in self-defence resulting in the modern article 9 which 'renounced war forever'. 

However not one to let a stupid war stop him, he returned to Tokyo and set up shop once more, mostly in Yuzen kimono. By 1955 aged 38, he had decided to fully devote his down (presumably, the  early 1950s was a difficult time in Japan, especially Tokyo) time to Tsujigahana revival. In a bid to get it done within his lifetime, Nerinuki was released back to the misty, shrouded hills of Folklore Studies once more and modern silk was deemed good enough. Instead, the technique was the focus, a mix of resist-dyeing and hand painted ink painting.[1] Using chirimen as a base, Kubota dyed each bolt independently and stitched. This formed the basis of Kubota's technique. Whilst this may seem revolutionary for some and a copout for others, this work is symbolic of what an appreciation for the worlds before our own is. An understanding that what we see is but a fleeting (in this case) material remnant, which we build upon in transforming the work to modern needs. This is a more honest understanding of KTC and whilst not a literal remaking, it is indeed a revival of the vision of what a Daimyo or Chonin may have felt upon recieving the same material. A reboot if you will that saw in 1977, Kubota first exhibit his take on Tsujigahana.[1]

This is evident in the series Kubota created for 1979, which presented panoramic views of sunsets and landscapes for example. This was displayed that year, and included 80 painstakingly handmade Kimono. True to his artisanal and nitpicky roots, this series was developed and continued until Kubotas passing onto the next life. It is this spell however which is almost a translation of the glamour of times gone by, a fae tale which has been spun into the gold leaf covered T-shaped works of Art which wealthy patrons swanned around in, a world which archivists, librarians, curators, re-constructionists and art historians have in their everyday. It is the job of the modern designer to translate this to bring these facets of history to a wider audience and it is this message and elements which make us consider Kubota as an archival liberator, that is one who works with firsthand artefacts in the archives left to us to create magic.

Bibliography

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itchiku_Kubota

Socials:

One stop Link shop: https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav 
https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ 
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw 
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/ 

Sunday, July 9, 2023

胭脂美人 | The Rouged Bijin | 300 - 1100 | Bijin #20

This post discusses the influential and cosmopolitan Rouged Meiren of the Tang period. Many of these figures used Buddhism as an agentive street to display their status in life, after death as in the Mogao cave complex through patronage and affiliation with Buddhism.[1] The extravagant Rouged Meiren of the late Tang period emerged from patriarchal beauty standards of the Han Dynasty, a kind of submissive Lotus Beauty, which in the 4th century was defined by men such as Gu Kaizhi (345-406 CE). By the 8th century under the legacy of Empress Wu Zetian, this had developed into the Drunken Lotus trope, as embodied in the work of Zhou Fang (730-800 CE), based on ideas about classical Meiren by Tang women.[2] This cosmopolitan Han woman of means took this pious role, and flipped it on its head, creating new beauty standards and aesthetics which were emulated and admired by many cultures and kingdoms for centuries including Japanese and Korean women. 

The painted Meiren first arose in the late Han dynasty as pious figures in burial images, and was developed throughout the spread of folk ballads concerning leading heroines from 200 CE. Female tropes at the time drew upon religious and Daoist principles which resulted in the beauty standard of figures such as Xi Shi.[2] As the female sex's influence rose, their agency was called into question and this became the patriarchal Metaphorical Beauty of Kaizhi (345-406 CE), where only heavenly figures were considered 'beautiful' whilst women like Empress Jian Nanfeng (257-300CE) were to be considered incapable of beauty. This all changed as women gained more agency as dynasties and empires lasted for longer periods and the men could actually do 'they're manly' jobs of 'boy stuff'.[5]

Women had long being holding public office, writing and power since the time of the Duchess of Wey,  Ms.Nanzi ( active 534 - 480 BCE ) in lieu of her gay husband, Ban Zhao ( 49-120 CE) of her writings & Empress Jia Nanfeng ( 257-300 CE ) for her disabled husband.[2]

Whilst all of this was going on, Buddhism was introduced into the mix from India around 150 CE, becoming widely accepted by 250 CE.[3] It may be that from the teachings of Buddhism, particularly Buddha's acceptance of female Bodhisattvas, women began to gain more political, social, cultural and religious power between 300 CE and 600 CE in China (see for example Yaśodharā). With this foreign religious influence, Chinese aesthetics and styles developed into more lascivious, exotic styles by 400 CE, as seen in the Longmen Grotto Bodhisattva Statues of the time which had decidedly more curves to them than previous aesthetic ideals may have encouraged in such pious figures before.

By 500 CE, the rise of Gongti or Palace Poetry arose, which placed female and some male protaganists at the center of stories about pining beauties trapped in Jade Mountain terraces, pining after far away lovers over their fans and vanities. This period saw a rise in both explicit beauty standards of the figure as acceptable in Chinese elite society and circles. This was reflected in the difference between the moral lessons of Ban Zhao 600 years earlier or Kaizhi's Wise and Benevolent Women (c.400 CE) which chastised women for attempting to use their looks to gain power, in contrast the Gongti which openly celebrated fleshy white beauties made up in fine outfits with their raven hair, jade ornaments and rouged makeup of the Terrace Beauty.[4][5] This century saw instead the rise of the power wielding female, who in the tradition of Ms.Nanzi, held the real power at court.

Palace poetry is set against the backdrop of the imperial carnage that was the 7th/8th century in Imperial Tang China as caused by squabbling men. A time of constant civil warring until the state was unified under the first outright Empress Wu Zetian ( 624-705 CE) by 665CE which lead to a period of unbridled imperial success, sparking the golden era of Chinese Art, aesthetics and womens rights otherwise known as the Tang era. Following her death in 705, her daughter Princess Taiping (c662 - 713CE) was the real powerhouse behind the throne even though her husband technically was Emperor. When her lesbian lover, Shuangguan Wan'er ( 664-710 ) died, Taiping buried her 'mountain of muse' with a noblewomens burial rites even though she was an unpopular figure in her lifetime.[2]

All of these developments lead to the golden age of Chinese Arts still hailed today as the highpoint of Classical Chinese Art, the Tang Dynasty. During this era, women held great sway over politics and beauty standards, leading to the rise of the plump, comfortable Tang aristocrat who spent her days watching the moon at parties, making poetry and being decadently raunchy in and out of court. Beauty standards still followed previous epochs particularly in makeup though, with the oval face and red face dots ( 花鈿 | Hua Dian) of the Sui. Having eyebrows like Xi Shi in the Tang age for example were highly sought after, and mimicking such a great beauties personality (wink wink) and mannerisms were highly cultivated traits of a beautiful person.[2]

Bodhisattva leads a noblewoman donor (c800-925CE) British Museum

Beauty in the 4th/5th century was still weaponized by men as a byproduct of patriarchy, following the ephemeral/natural beauty standard of a highly patriarchal society when women were considered property to be traded.[2] This developed from perhaps folk ballads like Yuefu, or as Ban Zhao may have encouraged from tales like Yeh-Hsien, into the Drunken Lotus trope, where highly 'religious' women would go about their 'nun-like' ways, whilst downing many a beverage in the evening at their courts and parties listening to the latest poetry, laid out like the Queen of Sheba thinking about which male to devour next in their decadent surroundings.[2][8] All very strangely (wink wink) as Buddhism is a religion which generally does not encourage vanity or material acquirement, early examples of Buddhist Meiren in China appeared by the Tang Dynasty in Western cave complexes.

Female attendant of Vaisravana the War Deity (C.618 CE, CC4.0) Uriel1022

Tang period tombs held larger depictions of  their donors to express their wealthy status, and subsequent bequests to the religion and local market activities in the areas they frequented. Paintings were large, sometimes life size, and were painted onto cave walls at the base of the wall near to entrances. Caves often expressed many things of this nature, and often a family standing as a family crypt where relatives would deposit their dead, leave burial objects and devote space for the departed.[6]  As the dynasties approached the Tang, Tomb Murals increasingly depicted women as powerful figures. The above figure for example depicts the elaborate beauty standards women had for themselves in this period, but also is reflected in her clout to be beside a god of war.

In being beside a god of war, the image portrays a figure who is befitting of such agency, power and capacity as to be able to hold this position. This was we must remember during a time where women held increasing power under Buddhism as nuns, donors and lovers of prominent court officials and where artistic positions like musicians, dancers and poets were increasingly seens as being worthy of respect and merit in their elite social networks and by outside circles and communities of people as respectable and enviable career paths.

Female Figure (c.722 CE, PD) Anonymous

This fresco comes from the tomb of Madam Ch'i-pi (656-721 CE). To have a tomb means that you had given something of your will over to the tombs of Mogao, particularly towards Buddhism. Whilst there is very little on the internet about Ms Ch'i-pi, she may have been given elaborate silk costuming in her life, denoting her high status as a cultured woman who donated to Buddhist causes in her area. The use of extravagant colours, dyes and material wealth display to this day her wealth and luxury status in life. Images like these were known to come almost exclusively from Han Chinese dynasty periods in cave frescos and depicted women donors as according to the beauty standards of their time, when men and women were painted on opposite walls.[6] Those who had converted to Buddhism were also painted ahead of other family members, expressing their closeness to the Buddhist religion.[6]

In having this portrait painted, this was expressing not only the owners wealth, but by the 8th century a resplendent tradition of portraying Buddhist patronage and prosperity, as well as perhaps rites for the deceased in their next cycle on the old Samsara wheel. The rich dyestuff to produce a work like this, the size of the portrait and the individual figure also hint to the figure being of a wealthy household, and cetainly influential enough in their own community to produce the image after death. Tang portraits of these times betrayed their relation to beauty standards of the Han court systems, as their solitary adornments and aeshtetic principles betrayed a plump, decadent figure which incorporated detailed foreign and intercultural dress elements from places like modern day India.[6][7]

As the role of women grew in society with their increased literacy, agency in roles at court and family wealth management, and value as Buddhist's, they increasingly also lead the way in depicting and displaying beauty standards. The High Tang Dynasty aesthetic can be best summed up in the paintings of Zhou Fang (active 766-806), whose beauties often were depicted as plump, white skinned, with buoyant black hair adorned to the gods in expensive rocks, long red robes and delicated features, yet with the supposedly fat eyebrows of Xi Shi and the rouged cheeks of these figures. These were standards imposed by the women at the courts of Wu Zetian and her female relatives who held ultimate power then. 

Beauty wearing flowers (c.770, PD) Zhou Fang

Their size, decadence and lifestyles betrayed what many women in South East Asia at the time did not have complete access to, agency over their lives and choices. Plump figures for example showed a rejection of the submissive, fragile patriarchal beauty standards of the past, and were certainly to be considered role models for the women in Nara and Kyoto who looked across the oceans to their neighbours for cosmopolitan influence, wealth and trends. Even with the Huichang persecution of Buddhists in 845 CE, the popularity of Buddhist sects such as the Chan Dharya (Zen) sect with nobles and Pure Land with Heimin meant that Buddhism still continued on, continuing the traditions of cave portraits.

Mogao Caves

The Mogao Cave complex is a series of burial sites in North Western modern-day China which were attended by Buddhist donors from the 4th century CE until the 1100's.[7] The complex sits in a complex crossroads as a religious site which sits on the silk road, attracting merchants and pilgrims alike. This has resulted in a particularly poignant representation of its donors, many of whom were women and whose choices to be represented shows us how their beauty standards and positions in their respective societies and social circles. Many of these depictions shows how Buddhism influenced China through the Tang Dynasty, becoming a major religion in the area, and also shows through perhaps some of the teachings of Buddhism (women were allowed significant roles in Buddhist dharma by Buddha) that their standing should be respected further than may have been permissible in previous generations in China.

Buddhist Donors in Magao Caves (c.900 CE, PD) Anonymous

Donors from the Mogao Cave complex show how this complex web of wealth, commerce and religion intersect. The above image was painted by the end of the Tang Dynasty when the reign of Wu Zetian had finally come to an end. The beauty standards of these pieces show how these women displayed their access to material goods in a way typical of the decadence of Zetian's court by expressing their interests, desires and affiliations with Buddhism by being painted together or indiviudually at the site.[7] These expressed a majority of Han dress and aesthetic choices, however their approach to Buddhism is interspersed with local customs and cultural relations such as having a burial portrait in the cave complex. As done for centuries, these groupings of women showed a parsing back of resplendence towards a more sparse religious image and connotations followed in the 3rd century.[6][7] As time progressed, this standard began to shift towards larger facial features, as seen above and below.

In these changing and yet still affluent and artistic times, women turned to Buddhism to convey these markers of wealth, status, cultural and religious affiliation. Cave portraits still reflected contemporaneous beauty standards, yet began to tread the line once more by the 900's of patriarchy and religious piety expected of women by male practitioners. In this sense, a decline in the extravagance and general society is seen in the cave portraits. Portraits still contained the vestiges of previous aesthetics guidelines however, becoming the familiar oval faced, black haired and decorative heavy portraits of their times, albeit in fewer numbers and with smaller more hidden around the back and upper sides of caves.[6] By the end of the Tang period, the Lotus trope dominates rather than the Drunken Lotus as women once again are 'encouraged' to take specific roles for themselves in patriarchal societies, albeit now with their own finances, spaces and values. 

Tunhwang Aristocratic Women Worshipping Buddha (c900 CE, PD) Anonymous

Conclusion

In context we see that as Buddhism enters China (around 400 CE), it enables certain new freedoms to certain groups such as to women under the guise of religious perseverance. As the Silk Road brought commercial success and status to many communities, this also brought new cultural imports and ideas about acceptable norms and expectations, moving standards towards financial and ergo material wealth, producing the origins of the Lotus Beauty, a beautiful slim, pious figure represented in early Tang tomb portraits. This cultural and religious exchange culminated in the development of highly intricate tomb murals/silk paintings for figures seen in the High Tang dynasty aesthetic of the plump, decadent, individual figure becoming the Drunken Lotus Meiren, a world reknowned aesthetic which displayed its owners status, power and wealth to establish such decadent trends and hedonistic lifestyles. It was this influential beauty which South East Asian communities looked to in the early Medieval period for beauty standards, even with its decline after 910 CE.

Bibliography

[1] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty

[2] See Bijin #17

[3] https://asiasociety.org/buddhism-china#:~:text=It%20was%20brought%20to%20China,of%20Buddhism's%20success%20was%20Daoism.

[4] See Bijin #19

[5] See Bijin #16

[6] https://www.dunhuang.ds.lib.uw.edu/dunhuang-cave-donors-%E6%95%A6%E7%85%8C%E7%9F%B3%E7%AA%9F%E4%BE%9B%E5%85%BB%E4%BA%BA/

[7] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mogao_Caves#

[8] https://www.medievalists.net/2020/08/medieval-cinderella/

Bijin Series Timeline

11th century BCE

- The Ruqun becomes a formal garment in China (1045 BCE); Ruqun Mei

8th century BCE

- Chinese clothing becomes highly hierarchical (770 BCE)

3rd century BCE

Xi Shi (flourished c201-900CE); The (Drunken) Lotus Bijin

2cnd century BCE

        - The Han Dynasty

1st century BCE

Wang Zhaojun (active 38 - 31 BCE) [Coming Soon]

0000 Current Era

1st century

        - Han Tomb portraiture begins as an extension of Confucian Ancestor Worship; first Han aesthetic                                scholars dictate how East Asian composition and art ethics begin

                       - Isometric becomes the standard for East Asian Composition (c.100); Dahuting Tomb Murals

                       - Ban Zhao introduces Imperial Court to her Lessons for Women (c106);                                      Women play major roles in the powerplay of running of China consistently                                until 1000 CE, influencing Beauty standards

                       - Buddhism is introduced to China (150 CE)

                       - Qiyun Shengdong begins to make figures more plump and Bijin-like (c.150) but still pious

Diao Chan (192CE) [Coming Soon]

2cnd century

             - Yuefu folk ballads inspire desirable beauty standards of pining women [Coming Soon]

4th century

Gu Kaizhi (active 364-406); Metaphorical Beauty

        - Buddhism is introduced to Korea (c.372)

        - Chinese Artists begin to make aesthetic beauties in ethereal religious roles of heavenly Nymphs

                       - Luo River Nymph Tale Scroll (c.400)

          - Womens clothing emphasized the waist as the Guiyi (Swallow-Tail Flying Ribbons) style (c.400)

                       - Wise and Benevolent Women (c.400)

5th century

          - Chinese Art becomes decadent; Imperial Culture begins to see more expression in religious statues (c450)

                       - Longmen Grotto Boddhisattvas (471)

6th century

Xu Ling; (active 537-583); Terrace Meiren

7th century

            - Tang Dynasty Art (618-908)

           - Rouged Bijin (600-699 CE) https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty

Yan Liben (active 642-673); Bodhisattva Bijin [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A1.jpg Guan Yin  | https://archive.org/details/viewsfromjadeter00weid/page/22/mode/1up?view=theater

Wu Zetian (active 665-705); The Great Tang Art Patron [Coming Soon]

Asuka Bijin (c.699); The Wa Bijin

8th century

            - Princess Yongtai's Veneration Murals (701) [Coming Soon]

- Introduction of Chinese Tang Dynasty clothing (710)

- Sumizuri-e (710)

Yang Yuhuan Guifei (719-756); [Coming Soon] East Asian Supermodel Bijin https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/275768522.pdf https://factsanddetails.com/china/cat2/4sub9/entry-5437.html#chapter-5

            - Astana Cemetery (c.700-750) [Coming Soon]

Zhang Xuan (active 720-755); [Coming Soon]

- What is now Classical Chinese Art forms

                    - An Lushun Rebellion (757) 

 Zhou Fang (active 766-805) ; Qiyun Bijin

- Emakimono Golden Age (799-1400)

9th century

                       - Buddhist Bijin [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty#/media/File:Noble_Ladies_Worshiping_Buddha.jpg + https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mogao_Caves#/media/File:Anonymous-Bodhisattva_Leading_the_Way.jpg

                    - Gongti Revival https://www.jstor.org/stable/495525?seq=2#metadata_info_tab_contents

10th century

                       -End of Tang Art (907)

13th century

                     - Heimin painters; 1200-1850; Town Beauty

15th century 

- Fuzokuga Painting schools; Kano (1450-1868) and Tosa (1330-1690) 

Tang Yin (active 1490-1524); Chinese Beauties [Coming Soon] https://www.comuseum.com/painting/masters/tang-yin/ 

16 century 

- Nanbanjin Art (1550-1630) 

- Wamono style begins under Chanoyu teachings (c1550-1580)

- Byobu Screens (1580-1670)

 - End of Sengoku Jidai brings Stabilisation policy (1590-1615)  

17th century  

- Land to Currency based Economy Shift (1601-1655)

- Early Kabuki Culture (1603-1673) ; Yakusha-e or Actor Prints

- Machi-Eshi Art ( 1610 - 1710) ; The Town Beauty

- Sumptuary legislation in reaction to the wealth of the merchant classes (1604-1685) 

- Regulation of export and imports of foreign trade in silk and cotton (1615-1685)  

Iwasa Matabei (active 1617-1650) ; Yamato-e Bijin  

The Hikone Screen (c.1624-1644) [Coming Soon]

- Sankin-Kotai (1635-1642) creates mass Urbanisation  

- Popular culture and print media production moves from Kyoto to Edo (1635-1650); Kiyohara Yukinobu (1650-1682) ; Manji Classical Beauty

- Shikomi-e (1650-1670) and Kakemono-e which promote Androgynous Beauties;

 Iwasa Katsushige (active 1650-1673) ; Kojin Bijin

- Mass Urbanisation instigates the rise of Chonin Cottage Industry Printing (1660-1690) ; rise of the Kabunakama Guilds and decline of the Samurai

- Kanazoshi Books (1660-1700); Koshokubon Genre (1659?-1661)

- Shunga (1660-1722); Abuna-e

Kanbun Master/School (active during 1661-1673) ; Maiko Bijin 

- Hinagata Bon (1666 - 1850) 

- Ukiyo Monogatari is published by Asai Ryoi (1666) 

Yoshida Hanbei (active 1664-1689) ; Toned-Down Bijin

- Asobi/Suijin Dress Manuals (1660-1700)

- Ukiyo-e Art (1670-1900)

Hishikawa Moronobu (active 1672-1694) ; Wakashu Bijin

- Early Bijin-ga begin to appear as Kakemono (c.1672)  

- Rise of the Komin-Chonin Relationship (1675-1725)

- The transit point from Kosode to modern Kimono (1680); Furisode, Wider Obi 

- The Genroku Osaka Bijin (1680 - 1700) ; Yuezen Hiinakata

Fu Derong (active c.1675-1722) ; [Coming Soon] https://archive.org/details/viewsfromjadeter00weid/page/111/mode/1up?view=theater

Sugimura Jihei (active 1681-1703) ; Technicolour Bijin 

- The Amorous Tales are published by Ihara Saikaku (1682-1687)

Hishikawa Morofusa (active 1684-1704) [Coming Soon]

- The Beginning of the Genroku Era (1688-1704)

- The rise of the Komin and Yuujo as mainstream popular culture (1688-1880) 

- The consolidation of the Bijinga genre as mainstream pop culture 

- The rise of the Torii school (1688-1799) 

- Tan-E (1688-1710)   

Miyazaki Yuzen (active 1688-1736) ; Genroku Komin and Wamono Bijin 

Torii Kiyonobu (active 1688 - 1729) : Commercial Bijin

Furuyama Moromasa (active 1695-1748)

18th century

Nishikawa Sukenobu (active 1700-1750) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Ando (active 1700-1736) ; Broadstroke Bijin

Okumura Masanobu (active 1701-1764)

Kaigetsudo Doshin (active 1704-1716) [Coming Soon]

Baioken Eishun (active 1710-1755) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Anchi (active 1714-1716) [Coming Soon]

Yamazaki Joryu (active 1716-1744) [Coming Soon] | https://www.jstor.org/stable/25790976?seq=5

1717 Kyoho Reforms

Miyagawa Choshun (active 1718-1753) [Coming Soon]

Miyagawa Issho (active 1718-1780) [Coming Soon]

Nishimura Shigenaga (active 1719-1756) [Coming Soon]

Matsuno Chikanobu (active 1720-1729) [Coming Soon]

- Beni-E (1720-1743)

Torii Kiyonobu II (active 1725-1760) [Coming Soon]

- Uki-E (1735-1760)

Kawamata Tsuneyuki (active 1736-1744) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (1739-1820)

Miyagawa Shunsui (active from 1740-1769) [Coming Soon]

Benizuri-E (1744-1760)

Ishikawa Toyonobu (active 1745-1785) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Settei (active 1753-1787) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1756-1787) [Coming Soon]

Shunsho Katsukawa (active 1760-1793) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyoharu (active 1763-1814) [Coming Soon]

Suzuki Harunobu (active 1764-1770) [Coming Soon]

- Nishiki-E (1765-1850)

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1765-1815) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (active 1765-1820) [Coming Soon]

Maruyama Okyo (active 1766-1795) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Utamaro (active 1770-1806) [Coming Soon]

Kubo Shunman (active 1774-1820) [Coming Soon]

Tsutaya Juzaburo (active 1774-1797) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunimasa (active from 1780-1810) [Coming Soon]

Tanehiko Takitei (active 1783-1842) [Coming Soon]

Katsukawa Shuncho (active 1783-1795) [Coming Soon]

Choubunsai Eishi (active 1784-1829) [Coming Soon]

Eishosai Choki (active 1786-1808) [Coming Soon]

Rekisentei Eiri (active 1789-1801) [Coming Soon] [https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ukiyo-e_paintings#/media/File:Rekisentei_Eiri_-_'800),_Beauty_in_a_White_Kimono',_c._1800.jpg]

Sakurai Seppo (active 1790-1824) [Coming Soon]

Chokosai Eisho (active 1792-1799) [Coming Soon]

Kunimaru Utagawa (active 1794-1829) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyokuni II (active 1794 - 1835) [Coming Soon]

Ryūryūkyo Shinsai (active 1799-1823) [Coming Soon]

19th century

Teisai Hokuba (active 1800-1844) [Coming Soon]

Totoya Hokkei (active 1800-1850) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada Toyokuni III (active 1800-1865) [Coming Soon]

Urakusai Nagahide (active from 1804) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Tsukimaro (active 1804 - 1836)

Kikukawa Eizan (active 1806-1867) [Coming Soon]

Keisai Eisen (active 1808-1848) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kuniyoshi (active 1810-1861) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Hiroshige (active 1811-1858) [Coming Soon]

Yanagawa Shigenobu (active 1818-1832) [Coming Soon]

Katsushika Oi (active 1824-1866) [Coming Soon]

Hirai Renzan (active 1838ー?) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada II (active 1844-1880) [Coming Soon]

Yamada Otokawa (active 1845) [Coming Soon] | 山田音羽子 https://www.jstor.org/stable/25790976?seq=10

Toyohara Kunichika (active 1847-1900) [Coming Soon]

Kano Hogai (active 1848-1888) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Yoshitoshi (active 1850-1892) [Coming Soon]

Noguchi Shohin (active c1860-1917) [Coming Soon]

Toyohara Chikanobu (active 1875-1912) [Coming Soon]

Uemura Shoen (active 1887-1949) [Coming Soon]

Kiyokata Kaburaki (active 1891-1972) [Coming Soon]

Goyo Hashiguchi (active 1899-1921) [Coming Soon]

20th century

Yumeji Takehisa (active 1905-1934) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kotondo (active 1915-1976) [Coming Soon]

Hisako Kajiwara (active 1918-1988) [Coming Soon] https://www.roningallery.com/artists/kajiwara-hisako | https://www.jstor.org/stable/25790976

Yamakawa Shūhō (active 1927-1944) [Coming Soon]


Social Links

One stop Link shop: https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest

https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav 

https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw 

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/

Work

 Work has decided that for some reason, both this and next weekend have workdays on the weekend so Ive taken the opportunity to get my life-...