Her Haughtynesses Decree

Showing posts with label Stabilisation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stabilisation. Show all posts

Sunday, February 9, 2025

Elizabeth I Portraiture | Musings

 Elizabeth I created a standard for portraiture in the Early Modern English age of the artform of portraiture. Remember that the time when the paintings were created was often after death or around specific large events as the creation of anything bigger than a palimpsest book or illustrated biblical pocketbook was a marvel given the distance that the ingredients and materials required to create these works travelled and in the circumstances under which they were created. Portrait miniatures were often instead the primary visual medium at the time, not the grand canvas and tapestry scales many royal portraits took in this time. These were created specifically to conjure an idea of grandeur, majesty and awe. Portrait minatures were successfully launched to England by Levina Teerlinc (c.1510-1576) from illuminated manuscript production under the workshop of her continental Dutch father and prior artists who had dabbled after 1450 in some miniatures. She and Esther Inglis, as well as Thomas Hilliard are widely known as some of the more popular portrait miniaturists of the Elizabethan and Tudor court periods.


Keep in mind that Elizabethan portraiture is heavily edited as the portrait was always after the same Darnley likenesses of around 1560 which is why her portraits appear so similar after this time when she ascended to the throne. They were tools of power and authority to symbolise the literal editing of the historical narrative to one befitting a Gynocentric one from this time on. Feminism in the truest sense of the term. These symbolic tools incorporated Elizabeth widely read usage of European and further afield symbolic allegory of mythology taken from Classical and contemporary sources as Elizabeth herself spoke and read in around 6-9 languages fluently and certainly came into contact with many more, a large number of which are today extinct or obsolete languages.[1] 

Some of the artists whom Elizabeth worked with being Hilliard, Cornelis Ketel, Federico Zuccaro or Zuccari, Isaac Oliver, and perhaps Gower and Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger. Many of these later editions were created with the intent of being shown to foreign powers, including foreign countries/regions and individuals in the earlier period of Elizabeth's reign. Local work for local owners of portraits in the British elites were laid along their long galleries which paid homage to Elizabeth as Queen specifically to curry favour within her royal court, and became fashionable architectural elements of Elizabethan grand manors. This zeitgeist has been referred to as the cult of Gloriana.

The Family of Henry VIII 1545

Not a sole portrait but this gives us the grounding for the type of world into which Elizabeth was born into. When she was first entering the world into which she found herself she was simply the image that was projected before the world for the benefit of her father. 

That is she was the progeny of a great man in a world of great men and not regarded by those in charge of enough money to commission portraiture at the time worth much more, particularly in the idea of the formation of the state craft portraiture certainly for the Tudor s that these matters entailed. Here she is shown very simply as a child in their parental charges, albeit as a princess of a second failed marriage which had by then been moved on into the third, which was seen as surpassing both Mary and Elizabeths importance for that of their brother who would go on to die as a child and having left very little impact other than to confirm that he was indeed a 14 year old boy from the get-go.

Instead this is an image which represented for Elizabeth the hell into which she had been born. The dynastic succession disputes created and caused utterly by the rakish whims of her rakish father figure. This also confirms her position within the court circles of painters such as Hans Holbein and the role portraiture conveyed in her life, as well as her familiarity and adoption of painting and portraiture to convey particular roles into the forward motions of court life and states craft.[2]

Lady Elizabeth Tudor 1546 

The earliest portraits of Elizabeth were her 1546 portrait as a teenager. At the time she was inbetween the care of her mother and being a ward of the crown due to her father's sinful displays of domination towards her father by cruelly ripping her away from her care and into the hands of her new cardinal, who proceeded to try to fondle her buttocks at the tender age of 14. This was the world Elizabeth was born into and expected to have her entire life dictated by, the whims and wishes of mediocre male mortals. 

Instead we can also infer the symbolism inherent in the family lore Elizabeth was positioned between as the daughter of Anne Boleyn. Boleyn was the chaste mother of Elizabeth, who became pregnant after Henry VIII decided to be a little rake that year. He was inbetween his situationship with his current wife, and because he wanted Anne, he decided to make a new state religion and get with his mistress anyway because even the Pope thought he was being too much of a rake for anyone's good. Boleyn in this portraiture is thought to have given her teenage daughter this dress, as it was her favourite colour, and a short while after was sent to the execution block because Henry was back on his rake business because his gout had lead to his spermatozoa becoming infertile, but rather than blame his own failing, disgusting health and habits, he blamed his mistr-wife. 

So in her 1546 portrait, we can see the sort of world and decisions that Elizabeth was allowed to make. None. She existed in a power vacuum based on her Rakish father's decisions of the week, leading to the death of her mother and the destruction of her half-sisters relationships, as a state between being the rightful heir and the ungrateful protestant allowed to live in a predominantly, albeit continental, Catholic European hierarchical structure until Henry created Anglicanism. Even by the artists own hand, this was meant to be a portrait which limited excessive ornamentation, therefore focusing the attention away from luxe towards the purity of Elizabeth in youth as a young, plain girl. This of course sounds ridiculous with hindsight, but remember that at this time Elizabeth's mother had just died for being in the wrong place at the wrong time according to the 'Men' around them both, and in making out Elizabeth to be just a plain, garden variety princess this emphasised her unimportant status at the time. In other words, masking her status to protect her from a fate like that of her mother's by attracting 'the wrong kind of attention' beheaded women of the period seemed to find themselves alongside. Instead, the 1546 portrait was meant to say to a viewer 'here is the daughter of an ex-royal, nothing to see here'. Meanwhile, Elizabeth was in grieving for her mother, whom she could not legally speaking mourn in the traditional manner given it was the kings will the women aforementioned be put to death, in a parting gift from her mother whilst balancing the duties of incumbent and non-incumbent royal court duties.

Symbolic objects such as roses or prayer books were included in some of Elizabeth's earliest portraits. Prayer books indicated her love of reading, study and piety, perhaps also an elevated sense of progressiveness associated with allowing a woman to rule at the time, along with the fact that Elizabeth could even read at the time at all. When these things came to be in the sense of roses, these were harkening to the Tudor lineage through the War of Roses succession crisis of the previous centuries. For her medieval audience (remember we are talking about matters of state) her roses would have signified a dual meaning of her lineage and also millefleur tapestries depiction of the Madonna, a significant replacement of the Catholic imagery when these were used in later portraiture.

On this matter of purity and the death of her mother, this was a constant in her early life. To the point that in a statement to her incumbent parliament on the matter of succession, she declared: ‘Assuredly, if my successor were known to the world, I would never esteem my state to be safe.’[5] Death for women was a constant, and in the Henry Tudor realm, they were seen as particularly replaceable objects. In this way, purity becomes a symbol for the matter of which Elizabeth projected out to the world, whilst also following her own follies and differing opinions from that of men. She instead projected herself onto England in a bid to both self-sacrifice and renew the flailing state the country had been left in under the succession crisis and disputes created by her father and some men in the time of her youth to lead her to needing to be a pure, chaste, virgin Queen outwardly, whilst her inwards world was one of books, learning, poetry, mythology, favourites, ladies in waiting, games, warfare, state policy and day to day theatricals.

After this time, this purity of image was perhaps as a coping mechanism maintained by Elizabeth in her portraiture. It is thought she may have requested this matter in the way Hilliard was said to reduce the amount of ornament, falsity and chiaroscuro included in portraits of her through 1560 to 1580 for example. This was held to be such the case that in a Proclamation from 1563 (1563 memorandum), there was a great discussion of Elizabeth's being depicted in 'blacke with a hoode and cornet', a style which held the wearer to be a pious Christian women, as found in the portrait miniature of her be Levina Teerlinc from 1550 for use in a private capacity.. something which by this time with Elizabeths ascendance to the throne and thus increased need for legitimacy to shoulder the Tudor dynasty as only the second female ruler in the Kingdom of England to do so, was an unbefitting image of the Elizabethan queen, instead more suitable for a Tudor princess. 

Hilliard was introduced around this timeframe as the apprentice to Elizabeth's jeweller, Robert Brandon, showcasing that there was a general feeling by Elizabeth already at this time of the importance of having creatives around her and encouraging their work. Elizabeth in this way gave money to Protestant and British creatives, such as Hilliard, Brandon and Treelinc during these times to make miniatures, manuscripts, bibles, jewelry, portraits and paintings. She was in this way responsible for some of the overall milieu of the art world in the wake of Shakespeare, goldscraft, embroidery, tapestries and other artforms which sprang up and flourished during her reign.

Hampden portrait 1560

Thus the Hampden portrait was introduced into the fray by the English court painter, George Gower.  Here she is depicted in the work as an upright person in colour. She is depicted as wearing the Red rose of the House of Lancaster and a gillyflower. The Rose sits atop a chair, commentating on her link to the royal lineage as a viably legitimate candidate in a time after 2 centuries of instability and random candidates from the leading Platagenet and other branch families of the English royal family. She is firmly stating that the House of Lancaster is where she does her allegiances and heritage towards, rather than perhaps the incredible instability the House of York had held during that century. The Gillyflower may be a reference either to Shakespeare, or to peppercorn rents, which may have indicated to a select few the actual budget allocation a young queen was intending to expend. This was a direct fiscal reaction to her father's lavish expenditures, such as those rakish matters of state as the Agincourt battle of the Field of the Cloth of Gold of 1520, where Henry VIII had a habit of overspending on. In turn however in the use of the Gillyflower, the implied message back from the Queen's barter was that of 'Socage shall be applied', ie, lords may have their lavish spending and the Queen hers on occassion to please the matter of appeasing the general populace and pleasing the aristocratic court, but in return Socage (pledging allegiance to a monarch whose land a feudal lord resided on) must applied in return, as had applied in the time of Edward VI under his Quia Emptores (1290) which dictated that English land cannot be given away willy nilly without the authorisation of proper authorities. In other words, I will be the head of your messy realm, but you will serve absolute allegiance to my authority or else. This was a regular message with implied undertones to a select number of aristocratic elites who may have been planning subterfuge or treasonous activities involving the usage of English land and coffers to do so. 

The incredibly expensive carpet she stands atop which may have indicated her trade allegiances at the time as she began the initation in the 1570s (letters travel by boat then) towards the Anglo-Moroccan alliance of her loyalties and interests as a new monarch. Behind her is what appears to be either a tapestry or some kind of collection of fruit, most of which was mostly a brag about how much money and mostly connections she had to be able to afford such luxuries as fresh fruits, mostly as many of these seeds came from places like the New World or the earth of Elizabeth's many great estates. This is mostly signified by what appears to be some kind of tool or anchor (?) in the bottom right which seems to have be related to these fruit varieties most likely. This also makes reference to the peppercorn rents, as peppercorn was used as a bartering system during this time due to frequent famines, but was also an exotic luxury good deemed at the time more valuable than gold as a spice of the East Indies. Thus these items were traded for feudal rights to plough and own land to the crown and other feudal headmen systems.

All in all the Hampden portrait gives the idea that this a general portrait of a new stable queen. The significance of this is that most of the issue surrounding Elizabeth at this time were instability from other family members trying to take the throne. Albeit whilst her 'gloves are off', meaning she will wage war for her throne through her claim in the other hand, she is sitting for a generally human portrait in comparison to later portraiture claimature. This was a theme which was often revisited in the gloves, and which would start a long glove craze in the successive courts of James VI of Scotland in a bid to be even a tenth of the human being Elizabeth was whilst James burnt witches and screwed everything except his wife. In this way for Elizabeth, gloves were a sign of favour which came with the territory of kissing the hand so to speak. She though long fingers, her own in other words, were a sign of elegance and royalty.[4]

Elizabeth I and the Three Goddesses 1569

Here Elizabeth begins to use portraiture as part of state crafting and nation building through her knowledge of classical mythology. The portrait here involves the usage of the story of the Judgement of Paris.
 "Eris, the goddess of discord, was not invited to the wedding of Peleus and Thetis. In revenge, she brought a golden apple, inscribed, "To the fairest one," which she threw into the wedding. Three guests, Hera, Athena and Aphrodite, after some disputation, agreed to have Paris of Troy choose the fairest one. Paris chose Aphrodite, she having bribed him with the most beautiful mortal woman in the world, Helen of Sparta, wife of Menelaus. Consequently, Paris carried Helen off to Troy, and the Greeks invaded Troy for Helen's return. Eris' Apple of Discord was thus the instrumental casus belli (or her not being invited to the wedding in the first place) of the Trojan War."
Instead of Paris, a figure whom Elizabeth deliberately depicts herself as thereby inducing the stature and posturing Paris is meant to invoke in a reader, as she would have seen and done so herself. 

In the portraiture, she is the one now commanding the 3 goddesses Juno, Venus and Pallas-Minerva who abide by her command at the bottom of a step. This may have started as a sort of self insert fanfiction, however the end result is again, that of states craft. The matter at hand is that of the impending crisis that the Trojan wars depict the fall of Troy, whereas it is said that the portraiture herself is inversed. This was the rather unsubtle matter of saying 'I am in charge, and I will be stable'. The context here is more important the actual Queen staffage itself. The Queen here is shadowed by her predecessor, the first Queen of the realm, Mary I, also known as Bloody Mary for her particularly aggressive and cruel treatment of many of her 'subjects' during her rule. Elizabeth instead beguiles the specter by demanding the respect of her sex given that the previous Catholic monarch had fumbled the bag, earning her successive moniker. 

IVNO POTENS SCEPTRIS ET MENTIS ACVMINE PALLAS / ET ROSEO VENERIS FVLGET IN ORE DECVS / ADFVIT ELIZABETH IVNO PERCVLSA REFVGIT OBSVPVIT PALLAS ERVBVITQ VENVS'. Translated as: 'Pallas was keen of brain, Juno was queen of might, / The rosy face of Venus was in beauty shining bright, / Elizabeth then came, And, overwhelmed, Queen Juno took flight: / Pallas was silenced: Venus blushed for shame'.[4]

Indeed the world in this painting is said to be the real world, and the world on the right pure fantasy, with the royal courts insignia part of the everyday Gloriana, and the right the land of fantasy envisaged by the flight of the goddess Venus in her chariot of swans.[4]

After 1570, the queens portraiture became something the English parliaments wished to display a sense of devotion and veneration from her subjects. These were meant to replace the Catholic imagery that had come before it, of Catholic saints, of the Madonna, of the miraculous Virgin birth of Jesus. Each of the prior lose strands of these public yarns about the Queens identity were spun into a tapestry which made up her new place as the head of her fathers Rake decisions. She literally took on the mantle of making the Tudor dynasty work, work Henry had been too busy shagging rosbif to do. For example her day of accession became Accession day (tilts), and just as Queen Elizabeth II started doing her TV appearances, these become fodder for the public imagination of what an 'English queen' got up to in England. 

The Family of Henry VIII: An Allegory of the Tudor Succession 1572

This is basically a joke from Elizabeth to Francis Walshingham, Elizabeth's master spy.[3] Inside this allegorical satire, the modicum of decency shown in handing the legitimacy to the English throne is shown in the way Henry VIII directs his line of descent through the hand of her kid brother to herself shown in the age in which she was at the time the painting was commissioned by Elizabeth. This was a commentary on stability.

The carpet under which all of these individuals are stood represents the Anglican Church, which was ruled after Henry VIII by only Protestants and Catholics on occasion. Those on the carpet are said to be in Elizabeth's worldview, the rightful heirs by blood to this matter at the time. The Catholic opposition  however, displayed on the right is the Spanish ruler Phillip II who had married Mary I who had died 20 years previously. Privately, this was a matter of ridiculing the Catholic supposition to the throne as the Pope was trying to at that very moment excommunicate Elizabeth from the religion. At this time, the fracture of England to Protestantism and Lutheranism, can be seen as whole when it was a matter of personal excommunication of the English queen who had so managed to rule without the problems of Mary. It was in this manner, that Elizabeth was communicating to her medieval and by then state craft image that she was the rightful ruler and had earned her spot in the geo-social-politics of medieval European court drama that established her right to rule.

Behind Philip is Mars, the God of War, implying strife caused by Philip II's rule, at this time in England and later down the line by invoking old tensions in the future. Behind Elizabeth however are the goddesses of Peace and Plenty, a clearcut message to the generals and leaders of Elizabeth mercenaries and armies that at the helm, she would lead England for Englands sake rather than as a personal moneypot which Philip used his lands, titles and possession for, much as occurred with the Philippines in later years, and the legend of the Black death arose around the Old and New World in raised heckle against.[3] 

Indeed around the context is where Elizabeth situates herself, placing herself as specifically, in the inscription beneath it all, as 'last of all a Vyrgin Queen to England’s joy we see, Successyvely to hold the right and virtues of the three'.[3] This was most likely created to bolster the Treaty of Blois (1572) which was made to build upon an alliance of England-France versus Spain v Netherlands dynamic in a bid to make the Protestant nations stronger in continental Europe. Her master spy at the time, was the ambassador to France, so this was a cheeky way of saying, 'we shall overcome all odds Philip raises to us' as it was also implied that Philip at the time was in control of the Pope, meaning her excommunication was a personal attack from her brother-in-law who was trying to discredit her legitimacy on the basis now, not of her sex as her father had done, but on the basis of her religion, and in trying to excommunicate her and claiming she was a simply heretyck who would need to be burned at the stake to quell the anger of his omnipotent god. Philip was not a nice person. To top this off, the portrait was made by an exiled Protestant from the Spanish Netherlands.

Hilliard Miniatures

Some of the royal portrait miniatures at this time turned to Hilliard as there was some criticism of not enough royal patronage being spent on British designers and craftspeople, given that Holbein and Treelinc both came from the continent and other designers and craftspeople were often overlooked by more established craftspeople from areas such as Flanders, Antwerp and other established book publishing centres maintained by monks and other writers and manuscript illuminators. 

Pelican and Phoenix 1576

During this time, Hilliard began the Pelican and Phoenix portraits. These were both made from the same wood and complemented one another in the way that these images symbolised the birth of the stable England Elizabeth had promised. At the cost of which was to become apparent later on, but the domestic economy of England by that point was more stable under her reign than it had been during the previous tumultuous reigns and wars of the previous rulers of the kingdom of England. Each of the portraits retain their titles from the jewelry worn by the Queen.

The pelican in her piety is a symbol of the medieval period. It was said that the pelican would feed its young with blood from it's own body to nurture the young. This gave the image of a self sacrificing being fostering the talent and future of its young over itself. The pelican pendant has it s wing outstretched and its beak in its breast, given the image of a self-effacing and humble monarch as derived in the lore of the time, an image that Elizabeth was fond of. In this way, it was said that Elizabeth sacrificed some creature comforts as well as her own blood sweat and tears for England. 

Large pearls symbolising purity and Artemis, the god of the Moon, are also shown everywhere. Continuing the purity theme, 2 cherries adorned the Queens earlobes, an untouched Virgin reference. Fringing above her head implies the Queendom and the usual Tudor rose runs amock. In this particular portrait, a Flower of Lis gives the impression of her claim to the kingdom of France. Her gown also displays blackwork, a particular embroidery embellishment which showcased her local homegrown artefacts, replete in roses.

The Phoenix portrait is a mirror image copy of the Pelican, symbolising an animal which is rising from the ashes to be reborn anew. It should not be understated that this was most likely the idea of Elizabeth distinguishing her right to rule given mediocrity and other biases which allowed the double standard of men creating things and then cocking them up, whilst not allowing women the same ability, time nor place to do the same. This double portrait by Hilliard implied that here was a grandeur for the double here and is what the author of this blogpost takes to imply in the aftermath of state craft that Elizabeth had come to realize in private, but not to take up in public as it would have ruined her claim to the throne and ability to rule independently and alone as an older woman in particular. 

The Phoenix represented for Elizabeth the rebirth of her image and use in society and for the realm. Unlike the Pelican, it was not a humble self-sacrificing emblem, but rather a matter of state craft once again, in that rejection of all that came before her to try something new so as to be able to create the overall immersion of a new England and new type of role model. By this point as quasi-absolute monarch, she decided what direction her fashion, her governments, her realm in other words would go. Slaving, the Protestant and Catholic wars and all of the succession disputes she had to mop up after her father was done were things with which the Phoenix was required as a symbol for. The Pelican on the other hand was invoked as a matter of taking the overall burden of the world into which she had newly birthed. She was as she once said not married to a single man, as she was 'already bound unto a husband which is the Kingdom of England'.[5] Instead Elizabeth used her messed up situation as Virgin Queen to benevolently  for its populace move England towards a national state of independence. Her marriage, her womb, her bedchamber were a matter of state. As such, she would never marry foreign princes or even her own native lover. This would have drawn England into war and other men's realpolitik afterall, as Mary I had been done so to under her marriage with Philip II.[6]

Instead Elizabeth rejected this and made herself and England independent of others. We can see this in the way Elizabeth referred to her favourite in allegorical ways, 'Robyn' being Robert Dudley for example.[5] Albeit it that later on in his life, he became tarnished and for a being of state, this was not good enough. Mortal men were too mediocre for royalty, even in 1560. Instead Dudley was made an Earl and tucked into the footnotes of history as another British favourite. Her marriage prospects abroad as well are limited as a royal, and even though she wanted to marry a younger brother of the King of Anjou in 1581, this was called off after it was found out he was Catholic. In sacrificing her love life and giving her body over to the image of state craft and England, she arose from the ashes becoming invested by this time in her portraiture immensely, as one of the creative crafts and 'appropriate' ways she could let her own thoughts be felt.[5]

Gloriana

With the imposition of Gloriana in full swing, it became expected for those who curried favour to wear an image of the Queen's likeness. Usually in the form of a brooch (see the Drake or the Armada jewel).

1580s

By the time the Armada arrived, these had become the cult of Gloriana, with all of the long gallery's, poetry and popular plays of the day (Shakespeare) replete with reference and inference to the ongoings of Elizabethan court creativity.

Emmanuel College charter 1584

Given his position as royal limner Hilliard

By the 1590s, these portraits became stuck in time from the Darnley era and created an emerging age of eternal youth and beauty. An engagement in public relations to the greater political and global British empire that had begun proper under the Elizabethan and Tudor banner.

Purity to rule
Virginity and Purity were also present in a great amount of the symbolism of the works, take for example the naming of Virginia.
Allusions were often made to the moon and pearls for this very matter.
Moon symbolism was often in sway with Diana and Artemis, the Roman and Greek goddess of the Moon and the Hunt.

Portraits
The Family of Henry VIII 1545
The Lady Elizabeth Tudor 1546
Lady Elizabeth 1550
Hampton Portrait 1560
Elizabeth I and the Three Goddesses, 1569
The Family of Henry VIII: An Allegory of the Tudor Succession 1572
Miniature by Hilliard 1572
Phoenix Portrait 1576
Pelican Portrait 1576
Emmanuel College charter 1584


Sunday, January 22, 2023

鹿の子絞り | Kanako Shibori | Shape-resistance Dye | Pattern #17

Kanoko Shibori is the most common type of Shibori. It is made up of thousands of tiny Doughnuts which decorate the surface of the Tanmono, which leave a kind of island and ocean between them of white and the dye. Shibori often refers to the dye design process of wring, squeeze and pressing fabric into a tight wound band design to make the Doughnut imprints and is created when the dye is completed.[5] Designs dictates what type of Shibori a Shibori is with Kanoko being the most easy to finish. It is said in Japan that the finish resembles 'the back of a fawn', and was born during the Heian period as a popular finish for women's textile designs.[1][4] 

Kyo-Kanoko Shibori (2022) Copyright of NHK Broadcasting

Historically, tie-dye or resist textiles are first found in Peru in 500AD, eventually making their way to the Middle East, China in Yunnan Province as Zha-ran and India as Bandhani, Nepal as Nambu Tiget, Indonesia as Plangti/Tritik and West Africa as Adire in conjunction with the beginning of indigo agriculture.[2][3] Shibori or 'shape resist textiles' began in the Asuka period (538-710 CE) when the rise of Indigo farming and continental dyed textiles were imported for the elites.[1][4] An example is found at the Shosoin repository dyed in Blue and now yellowed silk for Emperor Shoumu (701-756).[2] Local Japanese examples often used more early techniques like Kokechi which is box fold like design and Rokechi.[6]

During the Heian period, local artisans most likely working at Za were commissioned to make aristocratic women's clothes.[4] It was during this time that Kanoko Shibori was born.[4] At some point, Indigo began to be used by the Heimin to make Shibori designs for themselves, most likely during interactions between medieval Za and the common folk in the Heian (peaceful) period (794-1185). They may also have drawn inspiration from the Sashiko stitch, but both are my own hypothesis. Murasaki describes Genji surrounded by women dressed in Shibori dyed clothing for example.[6][8]
Certainly though after the Kamakura period (1185-1333), Shibori became incredibly popular as an acknowledgment of taste and wealth, but Heimin Shibori was done on Hemp Kosode and techniques passed down by family only.[2][5] This was most likely done becuase the period saw a lot of wars and infighting as local warlords began to take over greater swathes of land in Japan. This coupled with large populations made starvation and disease quite common at the time, exacerbating existing issues. Therefore whilst art kept calm and carried on, people had less money and patience for being flashy when their neighbours kept killing each other and so Shibori became a coveted skillset to make money to feed hungry mouths with, rathern than purely an aesthetic pursuit of trades guilds in the Muromachi/Warring States lull period (1336-1573).

Tsujigahana sample (c1573, PD) Xem Bolton

In the Momoyama period (1568-1600), Shibori began to be adopted as a fluid way for Machi-Shu Daimyo to involve local artisans again as a way to curry favour with wealthier art families.[7] Countryside Men or Kokujin began to gain power due to their socioeconomic position as the new lords who patronised local artisans networks after 1467 to build their local support bases. Momoyama specifically saw the increase in this Old v New Money (MachiShu v Kokujin) which ultimately resulted in the countryside So artisan networks which competed with Kyoto.[8] Shibori was taken up by Machi-Shu who paid Countryside artists to make Tsujigahana, a posh Shibori design, to create lavish textiles for banners, art and kosode.[9] 

Kyo Kanoko Shibori was most likely an invention of a Kyoto Za workshop around this time. Other individual artists or Machi-Eshi became celebrities of the new Urban centres by 1600 like Edo, today Tokyo in this postwar cultural melting pot of the So Jinja art market and Za commissions made for regional and by the 1580's, upper class Daimyo. A So example is the Kano school, a workshop type of hereditary group, and a Za is the imperial trade guilds of Kyoto or Chaya Shirojiro (1545-1596) model, a workshop for elites, by elites which was dying out in favour of the So model by the Kanei Era (1624-1644) due to Tokugawa Stabilisation policies.[8][10]

During the Edo period, the sumptuary laws prohibited having fun so the Chonin and Heimin could no longer wear some fabrics and designs like Silk.[2] In lieu of listening to the idiots like Iemitsu (1604-1651), people would redesign their old garments by redying them in Shibori, popularising Shibori as a design mechanism for aesthetics once more.[2][4] This replaced Tsujigahana with Kanoko Shibori as a fine arts pattern by the middle of the 17th century in hand made labour intensive Kosode.[9][11] Local Arimatsu shops were patronised during Sankin Kotai (1630-1862), then Narumi expanding it again further.[9] Thus Kanoko Shibori was emulated by the Iki in the 19th century who may seen Shibori as a Wamono 'folk craft' by then which is why you still see thousands of horrible 1980's plastic Shibori design on Furisode to this day. Major hubs today are Arimatsu and Narumi villages in Nagoya Prefecture.[2][4]

Bibliography

[1] https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E9%B9%BF%E3%81%AE%E5%AD%90%E7%B5%9E%E3%82%8A
[2] https://www.wanderingsilk.org/shibori-history-meaning#:~:text=Supposedly%20having%20been%20introduced%20from,Nara%20in%20the%208th%20century.
[3] https://hali.com/news/around-the-world-in-tie-dye/
[4] https://shiboriorg.wordpress.com/2021/06/08/conversations-with-cloth-shibori-connecting-the-world/
[5] https://kirikomade.com/blogs/our-fabrics/15315047-shibori
[6] https://artquill.blogspot.com/2019/01/shibori-tie-dying-1-art-essay-marie.html
[7] See Sengoku Jidai Art Markets in Bijin#15
[8] See Bijin #15
[9] https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/64896
[10] See Patterns #12
[11] See Timeline

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Sunday, August 21, 2022

町絵師 | Machi-Eshi | 1200 - 1850 | Bijin #15

The Machi Eshi (town painter) are a social group of Artisans who appear on the historical record after the societal changes that arose with the rise of the Shogunate system in the 1190s.[1] Later they reformed themselves as court affiliated specialist artisans in fields like metalwork forming medieval guilds, whilst Komin independents joined E-ya (picture shops).[4] During the Muromachi period, the Komin turned to the traditional Yamato-E style, drawing folktales and Classical novels in illustrated handscrolls sold and bought in local and regional art markets. During the Sengoku period, they evolved into highly flexible workers who commonly operated in workshops or trade bodies known as So, and if successful enough becoming by the 16th century celebrity Komin who made art for the elites. By the 17th century however, they reached their zenith and replaced the established art establishment by around 1640, defining the new Japanese beauty standards by 1675. Their influence waned after 1685 when they began to be clamped down by the Shogunate, a shadow of their former glory by 1750 and a trickle by 1850.

A sexy Nun (c1650, PD) Museum of Art

Nara Reforms

During the early Japanese history, heavy land reforms took place modelled on the Chinese system of governance. During the Nara period, this saw the implementation of a new capital (Kyoto), new tax reforms, and wide-sweeping changes based on the Chinese systems then in use. These new Taika reforms (645 CE) gave rise to decentralized systems which allowed art to become a viable career option and fields to operate within, such as woodwork, textiles and pottery.[2] Most of these being made for the new imperial court lifestyle or for religious purposes, in extant examples and being made by independents, the predecessor of the Machi-Eshi. It is their and state work which made the Nara period a high-period for Japanese art and culture.

The peaceful Time

When the Heian period began only 100 years later, these reforms lead to what has been called the Golden age of Japanese culture.[2] By the late Heian period, networks of independents and collaborators in workshops created Art for the elites, equivalent to the Benin Bronzes (c.1500) of Nigeria or Opus Anglicum (c.1100-1300) of England.

Baekje (PD) WC

The Heian period saw a turning in towards culturing a unique Japanese identity, distinct from Chinese and Buddhist influences. This started as a result of the collapse of Japan's ally, the Baekje kingdom (18BCE-660CE), resulting in a decline of trade between Japan and the Eurasian continent, with the last delegation returning from the continent in 838. This consolidated inner loyalties and saw the consolidation of power by the Fujiwara family by 858 and a total dismissal of maritime trade by 900 CE. In the arts, this differential reaction saw the creation of Yamato-E and Fuzokuga, mostly in the form of the famous Emakimono.[3][6][7] The scrolls made for other ranks like the Bushi and Samurai however, would have perhaps sought out more purse-friendly Fuzokuga painters for paintings.[7]

These many painters are mostly today unknown, but flourished in the Heian period as Art became a key tool of the Fujiwara clan and others for cementing their legitimacy to rule and display their wealth to others. Particularly in sculpture, this Fujiwara dominance resulted in the Fujiwara style, crafted by artists like the schulptor Jouchou (act. 1020-1057) in his Yosegi-zaiku (a kind of marquetry) who as with many others was taught in Kyoto and often worked on art for temples and the homes of his patrons like Fujiwara no Michinaga (藤原 道長, 966 – January 3, 1028).[7]  

When the fire nation Minamoto attacked the imperial court adjacent clans, in the late Heian period, this kicked off around 400 years (1200-1600CE) of intermittent civil wars, mostly affecting the nobility's ability to keep their heads attached to their shoulders. At the late stages of the Heian period however, these disputes saw a reduced capacity and imperial court coffer to make Art commissions and saw a decline in patronage of independents by the court. Other more prolific Kugonin ( Court-appointed Workshop Artisans | 供御人 ) making objects such as cast metal lanterns.[4] These Kugonin eventually became by 1100 CE collectives known as the Za ( Artisan Guilds | 座 ) who often operated in the capital.[4] Many Za workshops were also affiliated with temples creating iconographical, ritual and religious materials such as Buddhist sculptures, textiles, ceramics etc. to display in temples for the benefit of their patrons relationship with that temple.

The rise of the Independent Artisan

With the effective use of the Shouen ( Tax exempt land | 荘園 ) land reforms by Heimin farmers due to increased harvest yeild, many agricultural workers turned to artisanal work.[4] In 1275 a greater number of Za workshops began to be opened. These workshops were known as E-ya ( Picture shops | 絵屋 ), whose anonymous artisans operated mostly in cities like Kyoto and Osaka. An example of one kind being the Ogiya or fan shop.[8] From 1250 to 1350, the elites gave kickbacks such as land rights, tax and toll free status and the capacity to pay tax as goods for kind.[4] During this time, it became more common for the Heimin and Chonin groups to interact with art, that is art where they worked, or art they owned or had made for consumption in their livelihoods and homes, on fans, books, scrolls, screens, and doors. 


Tale of the Monkeys, late Otogi-Zoshi format (c.1560, CC4.0) British Museum

These Muromachi period (1336-1573) proto-Machi-Eshi artworks were often Fuzokuga, Sumi-E, Classical Chinese scenes ( Kara-E |  虚絵 ), and pictures depicting seasonal beauty (see Kano Motonobu for example) copied from Heian period novels.[6][23] Some of these included folk tales recorded on Otogizoshi Emakimono ( Prose narrative scrolls | 御伽草子絵巻物) included the tales of Independent Heimin Artisans, capturing rare glimpses of local medieval provincial folklore.[6]

Sengoku Politics

By 1350 on, the court influence diminished as outsider Samurai began to gain sociopolitical clout and as the Art industries broadened allowing for wider dispersal of Artisans across the country to choose Art as a career. Soukan ( General Supervisors of the Court | 惣官 ) limped on in their influence of advising the up and coming military class elites on art matters. They were then though superseded by the title hereditary Shugo ( Han Domain/Provinicial/Regional military administrators | 守護) who appointed their own advisors of Daiku ( Head Artisan | 大工 ) using new Shogunate approved tax rebates, a role previously overseen by the court approved Soukan, whom managed that areas Za.[4] This lead to areas developing their own highly specialized niches such as Nishijin weavers who specialized in Nishijin-ori used in Noh plays for example which were supported by the local Daimyou.[4][5] Even restorative work on older Emakimono took place at the time.[6]

By the 1400s, this new system of the increased wealth of the Shogu in their fiefs, lead to even greater opportunity for further class divides to open up as the men below them also became relatively richer than in the previous century. With this wider dispersal of wealth first from the capital, then to provincial leaders and to the Kokujin ( Countryside literally confusing as 'Provincial Men' | 国人 ) who receiving the backing of the Shogunate and Shugo came to power simultaneously as the Shugo. This led to more infighting between the Shugo and Kokujin, as had the succession and alliance disputes of the earlier Minamoto (Shogunate) and Taira (Established Court Family).[4]

Sengoku Jidai Art Markets

After the Onin War (1467), the greater number of Daimyo were former Kokujin victorious in their infighting fief wars.[4] These times become what is known today as the Sengoku Jidai, which fixed the Kokujin as the legitimate rulers of their fiefdoms. This in turn was coagulated by further alliances being made between established Kokujin who created vassal frameworks for neighbouring Kokujin to ally themselves to greater Kokujin Daimyo. Kokujin Daimyo created local trade networks to govern their fiefs more effectively to get ahead of neighbouring Daimyou by controlling local resources and infrastructure, creating new markets under the control and facilitating a greater need for Art to legitimise their power in the process, as the Fujiwara had before them.[4]

"[Daimyo] invested in and competed [...] with various merchant and artisan groups to assure a steady flow of supplies and financial support. [Kokujin in the] Sengoku period [did] this by sponsoring local trade centers and artisans in and around their residential mansions and defensive castle towns, both of which served as bases of production, market exchange, and consumption. [... This enabled] the aristocracy [... who] maintain[ed their former] prestige as a vessel of political and cultural legitimacy. This role enabled them to compete with [shugo] [...] through patronage of [local] artisanal groups."[4] 

Despite all the civil wars however, the population increased steadily and networks steadily built up between these bigger groups of So (Co-operative Bodies) to develop new markets and art industries.  Indeed, many So and Za groups lead concerted efforts to have their trades patronised by local Daimyou, therefore reaping benefits for their communities by returning these investments back into their communities.[4]

Kano Motonobu (c1520, PD) WC

During this time, the early industries were relatively grassroots, with markets often being small in scale, held weekly to hawk their wares, often held at temple grounds to allow a slice of the tax pie to return to the shrinking temple coffers.[4] From 1450-1550 a complex mix of provincial, regional and courtier infighting lead to a complex map of patrons for Anonymous Artisans. Kokujin and Shugo did this by investing in local and neighbouring Za and merchant guilds (think Silk farmers) to build their own bases and resource networks, creating their own local economies. Some Artists such as Kano Motonobu (1476-1559) reacted by leveraging patronage in these turbulent times to create their own schools.

By the 1530s Motonobu had married the daughter of the head of the Tosa School [...] and lead a small Kanō sect in northern Kyoto. The workshop contains roughly ten people containing Motonobu, his three sons, [his ...] brother Yukinobu (1513–1575), and some assistants that might have not been blood related. Since Motonobu was the head or chief architect of these paintings he took on the contracting, production, and organization of the projects while still being very involved with the marketing of his work and his studio. Known for his charm and intellect, Motonobu became a fierce businessman, and frequently petitioned to the shogun for a vast amount of varied commissions with his fellow merchant, Hasuike Hideaki. Motonobu [...] survived the turbulent world of the Warring States period while receiving the patronage of the influential people of the time, such as the shogunate, the imperial court, Ishiyama Hongan-ji, and the influential [Machi-Shuu. ...] Motonobu trained his workshop which was full of members of his family and other apprentices to execute his many designs. The workshop trained [outside] artists by watching the master painter work and emphasised recreating their master's style.[14]

Courtiers and elites continued to mantain the facade of wealth and prestige by patronising these merchants, although what they ordered was markedly different from what and why the new money was ordering for. During the Sengoku Jidai, a great amount of this commoner oriented folk art (Yamato-E and childrens stories) was lost in the upheaval of civil war, but gradually by 1550 was remade again as the succession disputes became less.[6]

The Town Painter

This warring period carried on until 1573 when Oda Nobunaga (1534-1582) overthrew the ruling Shogunate, and the politicking of Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598) and the maneuvering of Ieyasu Tokugawa (1543-1616) led to the establishment of the new capital at Edo. The vogue at that time in the elite circles favoured Bunjinga (Literati Chinese painting), a favourite of the Kano school which had established itself as a sort of Za with the elites. These collaborative workshops of many anonymous artists continued to create Yamato-E and Fuzokuga works, usually today wrongly attributed to the Tosa school, when celebrity Machi Eshi began to emerge from the workshops on a tidal wave of prestigious commissions from Kyoto and Osaka, and crucially for recorded history, signed their names on works which set a trend for schools to begin signing their work, as in the Kano school after 1575.[4][6][8][19] These prestige commissions were undoubtedly the beginning of the Machi Eshi golden era of influence.

Momoyama Fuzokuga Byobu (c.1575, PD) Anonymous 

With a wider demand and broader access, the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568-1600) saw a rise in the wealth of Chonin, Heimin and Machi-Shu ( Wealthy Townspeople | 町衆 ) around the artistic hubs of Kyoto, Osaka and Sakai. The Machi-Shu populations were created primarily as a result of early Tokugawa Sankin Kotai policies which moved lords and their retinues between Edo and their home fief every 6 months.[9][23] Machi-Shuu often comprised of the Artisans and Chonin who by this time had well established historical trade networks. Early Department stores for examples operated at this time run by families who made the switch to artisanal trades during the 16th century and made their homes their workshops, selling their handmade goods direct to the consumer. Their works often included many different goods, including wood, ceramics, painting, furniture, textiles, goldwork, metalwork, paper and many more skilled art trades.

Pastimes and Pleasures | Meisho Yamato-E Byobu (c.1610,PD) Anonymous

With the emergence of the Chonin as Machi-Eshi patron by 1610, overriding the Samurai position as tastemaker, Byobu made for these wealthy merchants began to reflect a shift towards the everyday landscape of the city and the pilgrimage trail, instead of Classical settings and imagined paradises.[19] The rather more patriotic; than Samurai that is; Chonin had a propensity for Yamato-E, Fuzokuga and Tosa (particularly the Heian Yamato-E) traditional styles rather than the Chinese Kara-E by the 17th century.[19] This originated from the Heian period when Tosa artists were patronised by the Japanese government bodies in the Byobu medium through to the fifteenth century (1150-1450). These Byobu (and Muromachi Yamato-E) in turn influenced the Kano style in the 16th century of adapting Fuzokuga scenes which most often had Japanese literary or historical figures in them creating the desire to depict Japanese rather the more popular elite images of Chinese derived depictions.[6][8]

Genna and Kanei styles adopted tropes and established narrative styles known from Yamato-E. From Fuzokuga, they adapted detailed, intricate scenes containing thousands of individual faces and scenes.[23] They adapted the Fukinuki Yatai style originally found in Heian Emakimono, and interspersed the scenes of daily urban life with goldworked clouds. These clouds allowed the viewer to draw out small scenes in the life of the Urban dweller. This may have been a holdover of Muromachi Emakimono which depicted folklore and commoner based perspectives. Intermingled with Shinto, which like Animistic Britonnic Celts, this may show how common folk understood the natural world as one and the same, as simultaneously 'sacred and profane'.[20] In this sense Byobu scenes carry on the tradition of pointing out how humans are part of natures ecosystem, rather than above it (forgive the pun).

One the sacred and profane note, commoners may have better understood how they fitted into the world around them due to their interactions with nature to sustain their lifestyle, ie weavers relying on 'natural dyes'. It is an elite idea (Roman in the West) that nature must be conquered and was a singular 'resource' to maintain the position of the wealthy. Common folk may have better understand that to destroy and 'conquer' the environment for wealth was an act of greed and insult to the Kami who lived wherever. Instead I hypothesise that particularly in the warring ages, people understood their relation to nature more clearly as they were more reliant on nature then than urban infrastructure. With a greater exposure they understood that in 'mastering' nature, they were to kill their own way of life and it is this understanding which allowed Ukiyo-E to flourish later on as commoners better understood their relation to Dukkha and the natural world than the majority of perpetually warring elites.

Matyrdom of Nagasaki (1622, PD) Kirishitan painter

This saw an increase in Byobu which by 1625 had turned Byobu in particular into a selection of Chonin vignette scenes which was the groundwork for the establishment of the Chonin lifestyle as the new socially acceptable norm in Artwork. Gone were the pretentions to religious Buddhist pilgrimages in these new, Animistic (Shinto) influenced screens which depicted scenes of Machi-Shuu swanning their way around the Yuukaku, townhouses and shops. By 1635, this pretention to 'fine art' is clearly not even thought of as it has become the expected norm that secular contemporary beauties are to be celebrated alongside an Urban culture which increasingly became codified on its own merits as spiritual in itself. By 1640, Machi-Shuu were the new elite, and they decided that the Machi-Eshi was to be their chronicler of the Kanei, in a life removed from the High Art of the Momoyama, elevating anonymous painters to fine art status and prestige.[23]

The Hikone Screen (c1635) Anonymous Machi Eshi

With the expansion of the art Industry with the establishment of the Machi-Shuu demographic, recognisably celebrity Machi-Eshi worked on many mediums such as Tawaraya Sōtatsu (act.1570-1640) a furniture designer and painter mostly remembered for his Rinpa Byobu.[10] Inspired by the Heian period, these artists both dependent and independent of the Taira family worked on gold heavy pieces which used sprinkled gold leaf and heavy reliance on nature motifs such as Uta-E ( Poetry Images* ) derived from the Heian period to establish a new Japanese canon of their own for the newly minted Machi-Shu and aristocrats in the Genna period (1615-1624). Tawaraya was also hired by the Taira family (an Imperial adjacent) to restore the Heike Nokyo ( Heike illuminated sutra manuscript | 平家納経 | c.1164) in 1602. In addition to his forbearer the art collectivist Hon-nami Koetsu (1578-1635), both worked in goldwork on paper, lacquer and painting, and it is in this vein which the Rinpa school was founded, and some of the earlier celebrity 'outsider' artists began their careers.

Trees Byobu (c.1640, PD) Tawaraya Sotatsu

Farming Family enjoy pleasant Evening Byobu (c1650-1670, PD) Kusumi Morikage

Kusumi Morikage (1620-1690) was also a Machi-Eshi known for working to his own realpolitik morals. During his early years, he initally painted under the Kano school style, under the incredibly stringent Kano Tan-yu (1602-1674) who by 1640 was artist to the Shogun, establishing the Kano school as the high art of its day. During this time, Morikage ran afoul of Tan-yu who prized politically correct authority over individuality in the spirit of his patrons stabilization policy. By the time Morikage became older however and taught his daughter Kiyohara Yukinobu (1643-1682) he began to work on his own terms outside the established canon of acceptable painting by depicting agriculture and the lives of the Heimin as the official Maeda clan painter. In this way, Machi-Eshi like Morikage questioned, challenged and won over the Academic painters of their day in the early half of the 17th century.[12] 

Hanami and Bijin Viewing at Kiyomizudeira (1640, PD) Anonymous

This must also be viewed in the sense of what sources are relayed to us by the male dominated art world, from the Genna to the present period. In this sense, we are missing out what contributions women made or did not to Heian 'Onna-E', Muromachi period Fuzokuga, and Momoyama Byobu in the self creation of female beauty standards. There does seem to prevail among Japanese women though in the desirability of androgynous young men certainly by the time Kabuki rolled around, greatly accelerated by the banning of female Kabuki performers, a style originated by women no less. In this sense, when we look at Machi-Eshi painters like the creator of Viewing Cherry Blossoms at Kiyomizu Temple Byobu (c.1640),[20] what we see is really half of the picture.[20] Yes retrospectively Bijin are present in the screen, but we do not wholly get the history of female influence on the creation of beauty standards. In this sense, we simply see the Bijin-ga as a product of male desirability for beautiful figures. This is not to say the female gaze of the Asobi is not present, it certainly was.

Also to consider is that the modern Machi-Eshi literature (1970-2020) is full of holes, skewed in favour of patriarchal linearity. Early 17th century Byobu also depict a dynamic society of women who carry greater agency than history gives them credit in their varied dress and activities at the very least. In the sense to which contemporary scholarship understand Kanei (1624-1644) Machi-Eshi Byobu, Bijin-ga emerged from the Kano and Machi Byobu which merged secular life with high art.[8] In this way however popular formats inherited from narrative Muromachi Yamato-E (in turn from Heian Emakimono) such as depicting the Four Seasons (Shiki) and seeing famous tourist spots (Meisho) merged with Edo sensibilities, creating with the rise of the new middle class (the Chonin) by anonymous and established artists such as Tawaraya Sotatsu, Kusumi Morikage and Iwasa Matabei depicted a secular view of the beauty of the natural, contemporary world around them.[20][21][22] Most often Byobu, these are the distinct precusor to Ukiyo-zoshi which allowed for the incubation of the Bijin-ga to become socially acceptable as high art, and later on, profitable.[23]

Matsuura Byobu (c1630-1650) Anonymous Machi Eshi

The Bijin has Arrived

What makes the Machi Eshi interesting in the 1650s,  is that there enough resources circulating to be able to start a career solely around making art by then, which allowed Independents who previously relied on patrons in the Gennei era like temples to become Machi Eshi who sold work they liked to make, not just becuase it was commissioned for a workshop.

Uta Bikuni (c1650, PD) Museum of Art

The Uta Bikuni or Singing (Sexy) Nun examples illustrates how Fuzokuga became infilitrated by the lean towards Ukiyo activities. This previously being an image of piety and religious sanctity, now imbues the idea of a sex worker ready with the red underslip, slight quirk of the mouth and loosely fitting kimono. Also note Katsuyama the 'Pilgrim', a story about the pilgramage of a famous Yoshiwara worker.[6][11] These stories showed the Machi-Shuu sensibility that arose by the 1630s prospered as it broke out as socially acceptable to admire Sexy Nuns with your Chonin buddies over a Sake.

Machi-Eshi moved from samurai clientele to Chonin patronage with portrayals of worldly subjects becoming more common place by this time in Japanese Art. Scenes from the everyday were included wholesale by the 1670s, including pictures of Bijin, under the influence of the rising middle classes or Chonin tastes. With the rise of the Ukiyo lifestyle of some artists, this saw classical correctness fall away to the slightly low brow Ukiyo-zoshi genre (1666-1750) and the rise of new beauty standards for women, that of what I refer to as the Asobi (playgirl), which came along with the rise of the Bijin-ga genre. Women more than likely were doing risque things long before, it is just that what we have as established canon certainly reflects a change in the canon at this time of what society deemed societally permissive for the feminine figure. (Heimin) Licentiousness was in vogue.

With the introduction of the Sakoku period artisans began to become more Japan focused. Artists like Kano Eino (1631–1697CE) was also the first to  reflects the inwards turn to the Wamono away from China of the early Sakoku policies designed to boost and focus on the Japanese domestic economy, beginning his career in 1651, 10 years into the Sakoku edicts. He finished the first Japanese focused Art History work in 1678, the Honcho Gashi ( Japanese painting history | 本朝畫史 | published 1693 ), which showed how well along the Arts were considered to be recieved by the Art communities in Japan, perhaps we can also consider abroad as the imitation of some Japanese goods exported into SouthEast Asia can attest.[14]

Ashida and Uta-E (c.1110CE) 36 Immortal Poets Collection

During the late 17th century, early 18th century, the Sumptuary legislations (1604-1685)[9] reflected the change back to conservative ideas of acceptability within pre-existing class structures as the Chonin sought to establish themselves within pre-existing hierarchical and prestige structures as stability and thus stagnation of diversity (changes to established norms) took hold. By the 1690s, this consolidated into the top-down imposed notion of Iki, which was an attempt by the elites to render the creativity of the Genroku period to a more subtle colourway and less bold lifestyle for the plebians and dirty merchants. This did win over some wealthier Chonin ( social climbers ) who in trying to climb the social ladder began to take on the message behind the curbing of Genroku extravagance (for example, Ashida-E on Kosode was in, but giant Kana was tacky). 

Seven Gods of Fortune (1700, PD) Hanabusa Itchou

This saw a return in the end to the scholarly Bunjinga styles, sort of the watercolours of Japan, away from explicit Wamono and towards the acceptable and established Classical Chinese Tang models. Machi-Eshi who unlike their forebearers in also rejecting the established norms and going their own way, fell into the Iki acceptability trap. Herein, successful Machi Eshi would follow the model of what the hoity-toity Samurai-likey genres. Artisans like Hanabusa Itcho ( 1652-1724 ) would learn the ways of the Kano, but rather than go their own way and create the new everyday, they turned to the imaginary Bunjinga genre, away from the Muromachi Yamato-E.[16] This may be to do with the fact that by this time with the implementation of the study of these art histories that Yamato-E, along with Onna-E, were seen as an offshoot of the 'womans' painting genres, that is painting made primarily by feminine painters, which was unfortunately by the bourgeois seen as a bad thing (see the Onna Daigaku for more information on this wonderful aspect of Japanese medieval patriarchy).[8]

Red and White Plum Blossoms (c1714, PD) Ogata Korin

Uraschimatro (c1897, PD) Henry Justice Ford

Ogata Korin was one of the more established Machi Eshi, reviving the Rinpa school in the Genroku period. His later work such as Red and White plum blossoms (c1714) has had countless copies and variations made from its snaking curvilinear stream which inspired a great amount of Kosode pattern designers and those of the West from 1862 onwards. Those inspired after the fact included the Rinpa painter (a style thankfully allowed to continue due to its connotations with China and flower paintings; a very masculine activity of course) Watanabe Shiko ( 1683-1755 ) whose Byobu have something of a whiff of originality to them.[17]  In the 19th century, the Ogata copycats went by the name of Sakai Hoitsu ( 1761-1829 ), testamount to the amount of Iki still around in the air by 1830.[18] The 19th century is arguably the slow death period of the Machi-Eshi who increasingly benefitted less and had less influence over the Japanese painting circles they were a part of. 

The Town Beauty

In context based art, we see how the high art Byobu of (the Kano and) Anonymous high end Machi-Eshi painters in the Momoyama Byobu became progressively more influenced by Wamono painting styles such as Fuzokuga & Yamato-E. These became by the 1610s a more recognisably urban style developed by the incumbent Machi-Eshi whose art patrons quickly began overtaking the Samurai in number. By the 1620s temple patronage began to reflect this more Chonin orientated shift, encouraging the previously lowbrow art markets of the Heimin of the Sengoku period in order to retain their waning institutional influence.[4] These Art Markets provided key intersections for the meeting of conservative and urban life creating an acceptance by the 1630s of the secularisation and blurring of acceptable beauty standards. That is to say, a Yuukaku was now perfectly acceptable to be found in more Byobu. The 1640s saw the rise of the worldly beauty favoured by the Chonin who wished to see their lives reflected in Art. By the 1650s this became codified in the increasing vanity projects of the wealthy nouveau riche, and by the 1660s, the emergence of the Kambun Bijin-ga figures and by the 1670s the idea that Moronobu could make a living on selling his softcore erotica figures was solidified.

Machi Eshi facilitated the rise of the Bijin genre therefore by leaning into the wishes of their patrons, the new middle classes of Chonin who fueled these new 'base' desires and revamped the wider cultural understanding of how beauty standards could be publicly and privately presented in Art. The basis of the secular beauty, that is to say worldly beauty, was first born from the daring of anonymous Machi-Eshi painters in the Genna period who dared to paint their own more secular and increasingly urban worlds, than the imaginary worlds of the Momoyama elites whose tastes revolved around a Buddhist worldview which emphasised art as a tool to establish control over local economies and resources.[4][8] Art thus became for the masses by facilitating the rise of the relatable Town beauty, a beautiful figure who could be found stalking the streets of Sakai, Osaka, Kyoto or Edo rather than the pavements of a Jinja whose ethereal beauty only served to praise its patrons vast ego or good deeds in preparation for the next life cycle of the Tosa Emakimono. 

It is in this context we see how from conservative Momoyama religious painting, we arrive at the secular beauty standards of the Kambun era to form Ukiyo-E and Bijin as genres by 1665; being a product of Machi-Eshi and Machi-Shuu beauty standards of the late Kanei period (1635-1644). The Town or perhaps Urban beauty is the democratisation of beauty standards in Japan, a turning point born from Tokugawa Stabilisation policies which saw out the slow demise of elite art patronage (Samurai, Aristocracy and Temples) which facilitated the rise of the Chonin worldview during the Kanei as Fine Art, enabling the Machi Eshi, Moronobus and Sukenobus to make a living from softcore gravure by revamping the tradition of Yamato-E and Tang beauties.[21][23] During the 1710s, the Bijin-ga became an establlished Academic genre which is were I shall end the influence of town painters as tastemakers.

Hanami Picnic Byobu (c1624-1644, PD) Anonymous

Bibliography

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Military_history_of_Japan#Kamakura_period_(1185%E2%80%931333)

[2] Heian Period (794–1185), Metropolitan Musuem of Arts, 2002, Online | https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/heia/hd_heia.htm

[3] See section underneath Fujiwara no Tsunetsugu in Fabrics #3

[4] Purveyors of Power: Artisans and Political Relations in Japan‘s Late Medieval Age, Paula Renée Curtis, 2011, pp.33-50 | https://etd.ohiolink.edu/apexprod/rws_etd/send_file/send?accession=osu1306860342&disposition=inline

[5] See Fabrics #9

[6] Genre Painting: Evoking the Charm and Cheer of the Commoners, Morita Tohru, Burritt Saben, Jane Whalley, Yoshikawa Shigehisa, Nomura Shoji, Watanabe Minako, Masaki Yoko, October 1991, Vol.28, No.4, pp.31-37, The East, Singapore National Printers Ltd. | https://archive.org/details/sim_east_november-december-1992_28_4/page/34/mode/1up?q=%22machi-eshi%22&view=theater 

[7] https://www.britannica.com/art/Fujiwara-style

[8] Worlds seen and imagined : Japanese screens from the Idemitsu Museum of Arts, Taizo Kuroda,     Melinda Takeuchi, Yuzo Yamane 1995, pp.36-53 | https://archive.org/details/worldsseenimagin0000kuro/page/37/mode/1up?q=%22machi-eshi%22&view=theater

[9] See Stabilisation Policy 1590-1615 and Sumptuary Laws 1604-1685 in Bijin #3 & A Gay Old Time in Bijin #1

[10] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tawaraya_S%C5%8Dtatsu

[11] https://www.moaart.or.jp/en/collections/066/

[12] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kusumi_Morikage

[14] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kan%C5%8D_Motonobu

[15] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kan%C5%8D_Ein%C5%8D

[16] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanabusa_Itch%C5%8D

[17] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watanabe_Shik%C5%8D

[18] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sakai_H%C5%8Ditsu

[19] Byōbu: The Art of the Japanese Screen, Michael R. Cunningham, September 1984, Vol. 71, No. 7, pp.223-224, The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art | https://www.jstor.org/stable/25159871?searchText=%22machi-eshi%22&searchUri=%2Faction%2FdoBasicSearch%3FQuery%3D%2522machi-eshi%2522%26so%3Drel&ab_segments=0%2Fbasic_phrase_search%2Fcontrol&refreqid=fastly-default%3A1590105ae019ce969bc9bbc38dc80178&seq=4#metadata_info_tab_contents

[20] Reflections on the Floating World, Rossella Menegazzo, 2020, pp.10-17 | https://rfacdn.nz/artgallery/assets/media/2020-reflections-on-the-floating-world-gallery-publication.pdf

[21] For more on the revolutionary Iwasa Matabei, see Bijin #6

[22] https://manga.fandom.com/wiki/Yamato-e | If you are a snob: https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/yama/hd_yama.htm

[23] Japanese painting, Terukazu Akiyama, 1977, pp.162-165 | https://archive.org/details/japanesepainting00akiy/page/165/mode/2up

*Uta-E refer to Heian period symbols which a reader had to decode, usually from poetry anthologies like the Manyou-Shuu (c.759CE) which told a familiar story from those anthologies. They often depicted the events of only one line or story and were found in the background of texts.

Bijin Series Timeline

11th century BCE

- The Ruqun becomes a formal garment in China (1000 BCE) [Coming Soon]

8th century BCE

- Chinese clothing becomes highly hierarchical (771 BCE) [Coming Soon]

0000 Current Era

7th century

Asuka Bijin (c.699); The Wa Bijin

8th century

- Introduction of Chinese Tang Dynasty clothing (710)

- Sumizuri-e (710)

- Classical Chinese Art ; Zhou Fang (active 766-805) ; Qiyun Bijin

- Emakimono Golden Age (799-1400)

15th century 

- Fuzokuga Painting schools; Kano (1450-1868) and Tosa (1330-1690) 

- Machi- Eshi painters; 1336-1650? [Coming Soon] 

16 century 

- Nanbanjin Art (1550-1630) 

- Wamono style begins under Chanoyu teachings (c1550-1580)

- Byobu Screens (1580-1670)

 - End of Sengoku Jidai brings Stabilisation policy (1590-1615)  

17th century  

- Land to Currency based Economy Shift (1601-1655)

- Early Kabuki Culture (1603-1673) ; Yakusha-e or Actor Prints

- Machi-Eshi Art ( 1610 - 1710) ; The Town Beauty

- Sumptuary legislation in reaction to the wealth of the merchant classes (1604-1685) 

- Regulation of export and imports of foreign trade in silk and cotton (1615-1685)  

Iwasa Matabei (active 1617-1650) ; Yamato-e Bijin  

The Hikone Screen (c.1624-1644) [Coming Soon]

- Sankin-Kotai (1635-1642) creates mass Urbanisation  

- Popular culture and print media production moves from Kyoto to Edo (1635-1650); Kiyohara Yukinobu (1650-1682) ; Manji Classical Beauty

- Shikomi-e (1650-1670) and Kakemono-e which promote Androgynous Beauties;

 Iwasa Katsushige (active 1650-1673) ; Kojin Bijin

- Mass Urbanisation instigates the rise of Chonin Cottage Industry Printing (1660-1690) ; rise of the Kabunakama Guilds and decline of the Samurai

- Kanazoshi Books (1660-1700); Koshokubon Genre (1659?-1661)

- Shunga (1660-1722); Abuna-e

Kanbun Master/School (active during 1661-1673) ; Maiko Bijin 

- Hinagata Bon (1666 - 1850) 

- Ukiyo Monogatari is published by Asai Ryoi (1666) 

Yoshida Hanbei (active 1664-1689) ; Toned-Down Bijin

- Asobi/Suijin Dress Manuals (1660-1700)

- Ukiyo-e Art (1670-1900)

Hishikawa Moronobu (active 1672-1694) ; Wakashu Bijin

- Early Bijin-ga begin to appear as Kakemono (c.1672)  

- Rise of the Komin-Chonin Relationship (1675-1725)

- The transit point from Kosode to modern Kimono (1680); Furisode, Wider Obi 

- The Genroku Osaka Bijin (1680 - 1700) ; Yuezen Hiinakata

Sugimura Jihei (active 1681-1703) ; Technicolour Bijin 

- The Amorous Tales are published by Ihara Saikaku (1682-1687)

Hishikawa Morofusa (active 1684-1704) [Coming Soon]

- The Beginning of the Genroku Era (1688-1704)

- The rise of the Komin and Yuujo as mainstream popular culture (1688-1880) 

- The consolidation of the Bijinga genre as mainstream pop culture 

- The rise of the Torii school (1688-1799) 

- Tan-E (1688-1710)   

Miyazaki Yuzen (active 1688-1736) ; Genroku Komin and Wamono Bijin 

Torii Kiyonobu (active 1688 - 1729) : Commercial Bijin

Furuyama Moromasa (active 1695-1748)

18th century

Nishikawa Sukenobu (active 1700-1750) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Ando (active 1700-1736) ; Broadstroke Bijin

Okumura Masanobu (active 1701-1764)

Kaigetsudo Doshin (active 1704-1716) [Coming Soon]

Baioken Eishun (active 1710-1755) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Anchi (active 1714-1716) [Coming Soon]

Yamazaki Joryu (active 1716-1744) [Coming Soon]

1717 Kyoho Reforms

Miyagawa Choshun (active 1718-1753) [Coming Soon]

Miyagawa Issho (active 1718-1780) [Coming Soon]

Nishimura Shigenaga (active 1719-1756) [Coming Soon]

Matsuno Chikanobu (active 1720-1729) [Coming Soon]

- Beni-E (1720-1743)

Torii Kiyonobu II (active 1725-1760) [Coming Soon]

- Uki-E (1735-1760)

Kawamata Tsuneyuki (active 1736-1744) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (1739-1820)

Miyagawa Shunsui (active from 1740-1769) [Coming Soon]

Benizuri-E (1744-1760)

Ishikawa Toyonobu (active 1745-1785) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Settei (active 1753-1787) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1756-1787) [Coming Soon]

Shunsho Katsukawa (active 1760-1793) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyoharu (active 1763-1814) [Coming Soon]

Suzuki Harunobu (active 1764-1770) [Coming Soon]

- Nishiki-E (1765-1850)

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1765-1815) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (active 1765-1820) [Coming Soon]

Maruyama Okyo (active 1766-1795) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Utamaro (active 1770-1806) [Coming Soon]

Kubo Shunman (active 1774-1820) [Coming Soon]

Tsutaya Juzaburo (active 1774-1797) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunimasa (active from 1780-1810) [Coming Soon]

Tanehiko Takitei (active 1783-1842) [Coming Soon]

Katsukawa Shuncho (active 1783-1795) [Coming Soon]

Choubunsai Eishi (active 1784-1829) [Coming Soon]

Eishosai Choki (active 1786-1808) [Coming Soon]

Rekisentei Eiri (active 1789-1801) [Coming Soon] [https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ukiyo-e_paintings#/media/File:Rekisentei_Eiri_-_'800),_Beauty_in_a_White_Kimono',_c._1800.jpg]

Chokosai Eisho (active 1792-1799) [Coming Soon]

Kunimaru Utagawa (active 1794-1829) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyokuni II (active 1794 - 1835) [Coming Soon]

Ryūryūkyo Shinsai (active 1799-1823) [Coming Soon]

19th century

Teisai Hokuba (active 1800-1844) [Coming Soon]

Totoya Hokkei (active 1800-1850) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada Toyokuni III (active 1800-1865) [Coming Soon]

Urakusai Nagahide (active from 1804) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Tsukimaro (active 1804 - 1836)

Kikukawa Eizan (active 1806-1867) [Coming Soon]

Keisai Eisen (active 1808-1848) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kuniyoshi (active 1810-1861) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Hiroshige (active 1811-1858) [Coming Soon]

Yanagawa Shigenobu (active 1818-1832) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada II (active 1844-1880) [Coming Soon]

Toyohara Kunichika (active 1847-1900) [Coming Soon]

Kano Hogai (active 1848-1888) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Yoshitoshi (active 1850-1892) [Coming Soon]

Toyohara Chikanobu (active 1875-1912) [Coming Soon]

Kiyokata Kaburaki (active 1891-1972) [Coming Soon]

Goyo Hashiguchi (active 1899-1921) [Coming Soon]

20th century

Yumeji Takehisa (active 1905-1934) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kotondo (active 1915-1976) [Coming Soon]

Yamakawa Shūhō (active 1927-1944) [Coming Soon]

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