Her Haughtynesses Decree

Showing posts with label Heimin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Heimin. Show all posts

Saturday, April 1, 2023

刺し子 | Sashiko | Little Stab Stitch | Pattern #18

Sashiko ( 刺し子 | Little Stab ) is a simple continuous running stitch design atop a surface. The stitch is slightly longer atop than on the underneath.[1] Often many Sashiko designs are done in an interlocking, repetitive or overlapping manner, often using indigo cloth and white thread.[3] The nature of Boro and Sashiko traps heat, making it more likely to be found in the North of Japan where it is colder, also helping enable the cloth to last longer. Many of the motifs common to traditional Sashiko designs are from plants, animals or nature like clouds and steam.[3] Many Sashiko techniques and styles derive from local folklore and rural communities and were made for practical everyday wear.[4][5]

Fireman's Sashiko Jacket (c.1865, PD) LACMA

Sashiko began as a practical design element for the Heimin wives of farms/fisheries to show off their Embroidery skills in making kimono, like repairing Boro Kosode.[3] Due to the influence of the sumptuary laws, most Boro and Hemp Kimono were made creative by dying them in indigo, a readily available local dye for Heimin and some Chonin who travelled around for Sankin Kotai.[4][7] Japanese firemen until the 19th century used to have their uniform made from Sashiko stitch with padding, which was drenched in water to act a shield from fire during rescue attempts.[2] By the late 17th century however, these designs began to become part and parcel of a wider revolutionary aesthetic reform of Kosode surfaces which made the Chonin look more powerful than the Samurai, which was a no-no for the Fudai and Kuge Daimyo. In a bid to curb these powerful aesthetic markers of status, the Heimin were given designated fabrics and dyes which saw a rise in the popularity of Indigo Sashiko.[4]

Hokusai's New Patterns (1824, PD/CC4.0) British Musuem, Katsushika Hokusai

By the 18th century, fashionable Sashiko Kosode used local folklore to distinguish local meanings specific to their maker and communities, like the Hoshi-ami (干し網|Fish Net) design used by fishermen's wives when making Donzu/Noragi Coats, or for some Chonin the common characteristics of their daily lives from the city.[3][5] Particularly in the merchant town of Osaka, Sashiko would have a popular infusion of mother's frugal stitchwork, and being part of the new fashionable elite emerging there. By the 19th century, these designs were incredibly intricate and were no longer done in the Boro spirit, but to show off how skilled their creator artisan/embroiderer was.[5] For example the designs of  Hokusai-Moyo ( 北斎模様 | Hokusai-patterns/designs) which were particularly popular after Hokusai published his 'New Patterns' ( 新形小紋帳 | 1824).[8]

Decorative Harakata Sashiko (2019, CC4.0) 漱石の猫

Ms Endo teaches Harakata Sashiko (2018, FU; Education) Copyright Yamagata Newspaper Broadcasting 

 With the introduction of new chemical dyes and machine made textiles, Kimono were increasingly less labour intensive by the early 20th century seeing a decline in the popularity of Sashiko designs from 1950-1980.[6] As part of the 1990s Web Kimono boom however, teachers like Kiyoko Endo (dates unknown) began teaching laymen artisans and craftspeople how Sashiko is used as a folk art (Endo teaches Harakata Sashiko, a Yonezawa style) and has become popular today in the West amongst embroiderers.

Bibliography

[1] https://www.athreadedneedle.com/blogs/with-a-threaded-needle/sashiko-kogin-hitomezashi-boro-what-are-we-stitching 

[2] https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O18904/firemans-hood-unknown/

[3] https://indigoniche.com/2018/06/26/sashiko-origins-and-designs/#:~:text=Sashiko%20is%20a%20Japanese%20folk,in%20repeating%20or%20interlocking%20patterns.

[4] See Sumptuary Laws (1604-1685) in Bijin #3

[5] See The Genroku Osaka Bijin (1680 - 1700) in Bijin #3

[6] https://www.inspirationsstudios.com/the-history-of-sashiko/

[7] See Patterns #17

[8] https://mag.japaaan.com/archives/113368

Social Links:

Linktree (One click to all and extended Links): https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest

https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav or https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ or https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw

Sunday, January 22, 2023

鹿の子絞り | Kanako Shibori | Shape-resistance Dye | Pattern #17

Kanoko Shibori is the most common type of Shibori. It is made up of thousands of tiny Doughnuts which decorate the surface of the Tanmono, which leave a kind of island and ocean between them of white and the dye. Shibori often refers to the dye design process of wring, squeeze and pressing fabric into a tight wound band design to make the Doughnut imprints and is created when the dye is completed.[5] Designs dictates what type of Shibori a Shibori is with Kanoko being the most easy to finish. It is said in Japan that the finish resembles 'the back of a fawn', and was born during the Heian period as a popular finish for women's textile designs.[1][4] 

Kyo-Kanoko Shibori (2022) Copyright of NHK Broadcasting

Historically, tie-dye or resist textiles are first found in Peru in 500AD, eventually making their way to the Middle East, China in Yunnan Province as Zha-ran and India as Bandhani, Nepal as Nambu Tiget, Indonesia as Plangti/Tritik and West Africa as Adire in conjunction with the beginning of indigo agriculture.[2][3] Shibori or 'shape resist textiles' began in the Asuka period (538-710 CE) when the rise of Indigo farming and continental dyed textiles were imported for the elites.[1][4] An example is found at the Shosoin repository dyed in Blue and now yellowed silk for Emperor Shoumu (701-756).[2] Local Japanese examples often used more early techniques like Kokechi which is box fold like design and Rokechi.[6]

During the Heian period, local artisans most likely working at Za were commissioned to make aristocratic women's clothes.[4] It was during this time that Kanoko Shibori was born.[4] At some point, Indigo began to be used by the Heimin to make Shibori designs for themselves, most likely during interactions between medieval Za and the common folk in the Heian (peaceful) period (794-1185). They may also have drawn inspiration from the Sashiko stitch, but both are my own hypothesis. Murasaki describes Genji surrounded by women dressed in Shibori dyed clothing for example.[6][8]
Certainly though after the Kamakura period (1185-1333), Shibori became incredibly popular as an acknowledgment of taste and wealth, but Heimin Shibori was done on Hemp Kosode and techniques passed down by family only.[2][5] This was most likely done becuase the period saw a lot of wars and infighting as local warlords began to take over greater swathes of land in Japan. This coupled with large populations made starvation and disease quite common at the time, exacerbating existing issues. Therefore whilst art kept calm and carried on, people had less money and patience for being flashy when their neighbours kept killing each other and so Shibori became a coveted skillset to make money to feed hungry mouths with, rathern than purely an aesthetic pursuit of trades guilds in the Muromachi/Warring States lull period (1336-1573).

Tsujigahana sample (c1573, PD) Xem Bolton

In the Momoyama period (1568-1600), Shibori began to be adopted as a fluid way for Machi-Shu Daimyo to involve local artisans again as a way to curry favour with wealthier art families.[7] Countryside Men or Kokujin began to gain power due to their socioeconomic position as the new lords who patronised local artisans networks after 1467 to build their local support bases. Momoyama specifically saw the increase in this Old v New Money (MachiShu v Kokujin) which ultimately resulted in the countryside So artisan networks which competed with Kyoto.[8] Shibori was taken up by Machi-Shu who paid Countryside artists to make Tsujigahana, a posh Shibori design, to create lavish textiles for banners, art and kosode.[9] 

Kyo Kanoko Shibori was most likely an invention of a Kyoto Za workshop around this time. Other individual artists or Machi-Eshi became celebrities of the new Urban centres by 1600 like Edo, today Tokyo in this postwar cultural melting pot of the So Jinja art market and Za commissions made for regional and by the 1580's, upper class Daimyo. A So example is the Kano school, a workshop type of hereditary group, and a Za is the imperial trade guilds of Kyoto or Chaya Shirojiro (1545-1596) model, a workshop for elites, by elites which was dying out in favour of the So model by the Kanei Era (1624-1644) due to Tokugawa Stabilisation policies.[8][10]

During the Edo period, the sumptuary laws prohibited having fun so the Chonin and Heimin could no longer wear some fabrics and designs like Silk.[2] In lieu of listening to the idiots like Iemitsu (1604-1651), people would redesign their old garments by redying them in Shibori, popularising Shibori as a design mechanism for aesthetics once more.[2][4] This replaced Tsujigahana with Kanoko Shibori as a fine arts pattern by the middle of the 17th century in hand made labour intensive Kosode.[9][11] Local Arimatsu shops were patronised during Sankin Kotai (1630-1862), then Narumi expanding it again further.[9] Thus Kanoko Shibori was emulated by the Iki in the 19th century who may seen Shibori as a Wamono 'folk craft' by then which is why you still see thousands of horrible 1980's plastic Shibori design on Furisode to this day. Major hubs today are Arimatsu and Narumi villages in Nagoya Prefecture.[2][4]

Bibliography

[1] https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E9%B9%BF%E3%81%AE%E5%AD%90%E7%B5%9E%E3%82%8A
[2] https://www.wanderingsilk.org/shibori-history-meaning#:~:text=Supposedly%20having%20been%20introduced%20from,Nara%20in%20the%208th%20century.
[3] https://hali.com/news/around-the-world-in-tie-dye/
[4] https://shiboriorg.wordpress.com/2021/06/08/conversations-with-cloth-shibori-connecting-the-world/
[5] https://kirikomade.com/blogs/our-fabrics/15315047-shibori
[6] https://artquill.blogspot.com/2019/01/shibori-tie-dying-1-art-essay-marie.html
[7] See Sengoku Jidai Art Markets in Bijin#15
[8] See Bijin #15
[9] https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/64896
[10] See Patterns #12
[11] See Timeline

Socials:

https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest

https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav or https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ or https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw, or https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/

Sunday, December 25, 2022

西施 | Xi Shi | 505-473 BCE | Bijin #17

Xi Shi (c.505 - 473 BCE | Xi of the West) is one of the 4 great Ancient Chinese Beauties.[1][2] These 4 women are known today more by their legendary status and reflect a great deal of Beauty Standards from the era they existed in. Each began their stories in the courts of noblemen, although Xi Shi covers how well we can see the development from background to foreground womens role became as beauties between the Han and Tang Dynasties (220 BCE - 907 CE). Xi reflects how Meiren went from literal tradable merchandise, to the Drunken Lotus type (that is a heavenly level of beauty who Tang era women could recognise in their revelry) who sat around in the Palace Poetry of Tang court poets reclining, drinking and fanning themselves thinking of their Handsome lovers back home in total luxury. Xi's story reflects this shift in the beauty standard which saw men as sole arbitrater to female enfranchisement during the Tang Dynasty in the epochs literature.

Modern representation of Xi (c1700) He Dazi | 赫達資

Xi in Love

During this time, Xi's King, the Lord of Yue had been defeated by his neighbours, the King of Wu. So naturally, the advisor to the King of Yue suggested that they capture young women to turn into spies of the bedchamber who would be sent to spy on the King of Wu.

Xi story essentially follows this line of bizarre logic as beginning her tale as a lowly servant girl who is happened upon by roaming court officials in Southern coastal China. Roving court official Fan Li takes a liking to her after seeing nature stop in its tracks and decided she would make an excellent sex spy and was trained for 3 years in the art of blowdarts and sent away by 490 BCE.[8][14] During this time, Xi was sent as part of a 'trade convoy' with Jade, Horses and Exotic Food to the King of Wu.

Apparently that plan worked, because the King of Wu starts ignoring state affairs to just stare at Xi. He killed his advisors and built a pleasure palace.[8] The Pleasure palace consisted of many women, who slept surrounded by many treasures and rose at the moon, drew back their pearl blinds and moon gazed. They would paint their faces surrounded by canopies (like a fly screen my grandfather used to use in the summer) of pearls, like phoenixes flapping around in light autumn mists.[14]

Everything was great until the Yue kingdom attacked once again, (fifth times the charm eh?) to find these two sitting underneath bamboo trees, as radiant as goddesses (they also sent a Ms.Deng). Xi manages to return to Yue. When she returns, she is said to fall in love with Minister Fan Li, and like the great natural  beauty she is, the pair go by boat never to be seen again, at night![8] 

Xi's way with Mei

The stories originate from the writings of Zhuang ( 369 - 286 BCE), before the first time China began burning books which led to the first Chinese Dynasty, the Ch'ing (221 BCE - 226 CE).[3][4] During these times, people like Zhuang were officially court appointed, the Heimin were spoken for under the 'Minor Talks' school of thought.[5] Zhuang is only handed down to us as a scholarly poet who wrote of the 'great beauties' of the past who were bewitching they scared nature.[6] 

The beautiful Xishi, troubled with heartburn, frowned at her neighbors. An ugly woman of the neighborhood, seeing that Xishi was beautiful, went home and likewise pounded her breast and frowned at her neighbors. But at the sight of her, the rich men of the neighborhood shut tight their gates and would not venture out, while the poor men grabbed their wives and children by the hand and scampered off. The woman understood that someone frowning could be beautiful, but she did not understand where the beauty of the frown came from.[7]

Xi was said to be a true beauty, one of nature in this sense and upheld the Beauty standard of the time, which was to be slender with long black hair. Zhuangzi and subsequent writers after him when contemplating Mei ( 美 | Beauty ) in this way rejected therefore fake/false beauty and accepted there is a spectrum of natural beauties. It was these natural beauties who represented the genuine which were to be revered as Damei ( ?? | Great Beauty ) which was held by the aesthetic and inner beauty of anyone, but which was not made but only produced naturally.[7] This was a reflection of Zhuang's following of the Dao ( | Way );

For this reason, whether you point to a little stalk or a great pillar, a leper or the beautiful Xishi, things ribald and shady, or things grotesque and strange, the dao makes them all into one. Their dividedness is their completeness; their completeness is their impairment. [...] Only the man of far-reaching vision knows how to make them into one. So he has no use [for categories] but relegates all to the constant. The constant is the useful; the useful is the passable; the passable is the successful; and with success, all is accomplished. He relies on this alone, relies on it and does not know he is doing so. This is called the dao.[7]

Zhuang also warned against the attainment and influence of beauty. Instead Zhuang encouraged us not to want for aesthetic or beautiful perfection, but to instead understand our own flaws and to understand that these give us their own unique beauty or advantages.[7] In the sense that Xi however started off life as a relative pauper however, Zhuang was also teaching scholars of the time the idea that you can be both beautiful and poor as well, that beauty arises in all things, types and variants even if we cannot imagine it to be do so. It is in following truthful openness to beauty, that Damei arises.

Palace Poetry

In following the great Tang tradition, Palace Poetry, that is poetry about beautiful women locked in the Harem wing of Imperial Kings and Courtiers Palace Mansions also conferred a place on Xi Shi. Wang Mei (699-759) for example wrote of how Xi wore Makeup, Silk clothes and of other women imitating her eyebrows.[9] Li Bai ( 701-762 CE) wrote:

Xi-Shi, a girl spotted on a stream in Yüeh,
Was born of parents from Chu-lo Hill.
Her beauty overshadowed women past and present,
And her lovely face put lotus flowers to shame.
She washed yarn, played with the green water,
And spent her leisure with the clear ripples.
Indeed her white teeth rarely opened to speak,
And her thoughts tarried in the blue sky.
Exalted by Kou-chien, who was looking for a supreme beauty,
She entered the Kingdom of Wu,
Where she was raised above others in the Kuan-wa Palace.
Distant and elusive she is nowhere to be found:
The moment Fu Chai’s Kingdom was destroyed, She disappeared, and, in the ages that followed, was seen no more.[10]

Xi Shi here was compared to the Lotus Flower, perhaps a reference to that saucy new religion Buddhism to refer to ephemeral beauty, an idea Japanese people later developed as Mono no Aware ( Beauty of Transience ). She also is considered to have white teeth even though she is low in court rank, another confusing double bind. Bai then writes:

The time when the crows are roosting on the terrace of Ku-su, is when, in the Wu king’s palace, Xi Shi is growing drunk.

The songs of Wu and dances of Ch’u—their pleasures had not reached its height, As the green hills were about to swallow a half side of the sun.

From waterclock more and more drips away, from the basin of gold with its silver arrow, And they rise and they watch the autumn moon sink down in the river’s waves,

As in the east the sun grows higher, what shall their joy be then?[10]

In this poem, Bai is alluding under the setting sun that the Wu kingdom is collapsing, (mentioning the negative imagery of crows also). The falling autumn moon being the most exciting motif, as it alludes to the feelings of our wonderful heroine in being unable to return to Yue to be with Lan Fi. It is this sense that we can become excited about Palace poetry and palace beauties as they offer the first classical instances of offering agency for beauties, partiularly women. Xi Shi is not meant to be admired for her aesthetical beauty, even though she has it, but instead she is to admired for her personal characteristics. 

The moon as a motif, shows how Ying and Yang were presented by some Confucian scholars, with Sun being the male, Lunar motifs as female, complementing one another. Palace poetry though centers women as the mainstay of the narrative, that Xi becomes a protagonist all listeners should heed the advice of in following their discipline. In this sense, the Yang (Sun) is dying as it is unbeautiful, intolerant. The Moon rather is rising as Xi's victory will do. It is here that we see that this is not The kings world, but Xi's world. She is the agent of her own destiny, the moral compass of the poem.

Other moral truths coming from the ephemeral beauty of Xi expound that to hold this fairy-like, nymph or heavenly beauty is only something that one can have from birth. Bai writes:

Summer

On the Mirror Lake three hundred li around

Gaily the lotus lilies bloom.

She gathers them—Queen Xi-Shi, in Maytime!

A multitude jostles on the back, watching.

Her boat turns back without watching the moonrise,

And glides away to the house of the amorous Yueh king.[10]

Bai's use of the idea of Summer delivers the Yang aspect of Xi's beauty. It is said that Yang represents 'masculinity' which tells us a lot about why Palace poetry is quite so Palace-poetry in the first place. Using the motif of Summer, Xi becomes active agent who tips the natural balance back to its correct state, that is returning back to a domesticity of society which sees Kings no longer ruling as tyrants. Jealousy and imitation of Xi's power (her eyebrows, gestures and personality) are shown to be false pretenses against Xi's original power (Xi's Lotus Flower face) and she is unable to be matched, 300 Li around. Gathering her Lotus Blossoms at a peculiar hour she is followed by these imitators who can only watch on at her feminine power and beauty as it rises with the moon. 

Women in Power

Women had long being holding public office, writing and power since the time of the Duchess of Wey,  Ms.Nanzi ( active 534 - 480 BCE ) in lieu of her gay husband, Ban Zhao ( 49-120 CE) of her writings & Empress Jia Nanfeng ( 257-300 CE ) for her disabled husband. Palace poetry is set against the backdrop of the imperial carnage that was the 7th/8th century in Imperial Tang China as caused by squabbling men. A time of constant civil warring until the state was unified under the first outright Empress Wu Zetian ( 624-705 CE) by 665CE which lead to a period of unbridled imperial success, sparking the golden era of Chinese Art, aesthetics and womens rights otherwise known as the Tang era. Following her death in 705, her daughter Princess Taiping (c662 - 713CE) was the real powerhouse behind the throne even though her husband technically was Emperor. When her lesbian lover, Shuangguan Wan'er ( 664-710 ) died, Taiping buried her 'mountain of muse' with a noblewomens burial rites even though she was an unpopular figure in her lifetime.[11]

It is against this backdrop of women being in real power for nearly half a century which allows a blossoming of feminine power. That is the idea women can be powerful at all being considered. It was in this climate that Palace poetry increasingly gave 'Yang' to women, that is agency in the poetry of the time. During the early Tang period, most Meiren (Beauties) were to be admonished, as Empress Jia was in the 5th century in the Admonitions of the Court Instructress scroll as a WOC who stepped beyond her societally acceptable place. When Wu Zetian came to power however, this changed of course becuase you didn't get to draw anti-Empress propaganda under Wu Zetian, you just got beheaded. So women in the male gaze increasingly reflected this new power dynamic, they became more active agents.

Palace poetry reflected this shift towards women doing things, just as they would in the next century when they became ardent art patrons, supporters of Buddhism and more vocally active participants in society. Suddenly, the 'Harem' so to speak demanded respect, otherwise all of those Meiren would up and go to the monastery to write about you for all posterity as Nuns. So the image of the meek, gentle women who 'conceals beauty within' herself, of course only in the bedroom or kitchen became one of the more active 'pining beauty' trope, where the young, beautiful, wise, all-knowing, pampered beauty sitting around fanning herself in the Imperial Mansions of Wu longing for Fan Li became in a Duchess of Wei, the Ancient Tang version of the New Woman.[12] This is why women like Xi, suddenly have backstories, attributes and personalities like as a humble silk-washer, all elegantly drunk.[14]

The Drunken Lotus Bijin

In context therefore, we see that Beauty was being discussed during the Ancient Chinese dynastical period as a way to conceptualise transcendental pleasure.[7] Being beautiful was not the ability to be aesthetical, but rather to embody an inner grace and beauty from within. The tale of Xi from the West was a moral story about how beauty should be used to understand that the educated must learn to think outside of the box rather than simply turning to the familiar. Xi was a beautiful human being, not an aesthetically pleasing woman. It is in this sense that ancient Chinese scholars addressed how beauty should be thought of and approached in the metaphysical sense under newly emerging power dynamics which saw women ruling and expressing themselves in the Imperial Courts.

When we think of how this was handed down to Japanese people, this is the idea that to be a Beauty is to be virtuous, self-sacrificing, tolerant and authentically natural. These values supposedly allowed the ugly to become beautiful and the pauper to become a palace beauty in the popular Tang imagination, beginning the trope of the Palace Beauty: often a woman who leads a secluded life in imperial concubinage who longs for another, primping and passing the time in luxury. Xi in her initial pre-Imperial writings is a passive agent, who through renewed lenses by the Tang era, a more likely point of contact for Noble Japanese women, became an active negotiator of the Tang era Palace Poetry by the 6th century. This established her beauty as one pursued by women, crafting Xi in their own likeness as a symbolic feminine Beauty of Mei or Bijin standards.

In that vein I leave you with the explicitly aesthetical Bai poem:

A girl from Ruoye Stream with a face like Jade,

Whose Black Eyebrows beset carmine makeup,

A pair of golden-yellow clogs,

And two feet as white as snow.[14]

Bibliography

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xi_Shi

[2] http://en.chinaculture.org/2017-05/04/content_998481.htm#:~:text=Chinese%20ancestors%20became%20adults%20at,00%2Dyear%2Dold%20history.

[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burning_of_books_and_burying_of_scholars

[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zhuang_Zhou

[5] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hundred_Schools_of_Thought#School_of_%22Minor-talks%22

[6] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four_Beauties

[7] Beauty (Mei, 美) in the Zhuangzi and Contemporary Theories of Beauty, Peng Feng, 2020, Volume 54, No.2, pp.22-34, The Journal of Aesthetic Education | https://fh.pku.edu.cn/docs/2020-04/20200415132901819403.pdf

[8] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xi_Shi

[9] https://hellopoetry.com/poem/14731/the-beautiful-xi-shi/

[10] Li Bai's eight poems about Xi Shi, Liang Ying, September 2011, Volume 1, No.3, pp.159-161 Journal of Literature and Art Studies, ISSN 2159-5836 | https://www.davidpublisher.com/Public/uploads/Contribute/551e2b55bf6fd.pdf

[11] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shangguan_Wan%27er

[12] See Bijin #16

[14] The Silent Beauty: Changing Portrayals of Xi Shi, from "Zhiguai" and Poetry to Ming Fiction and Drama, Olivia Milburn, 2013, Volume 26, No. 1, pp.26-33, Asia Major

 Bijin Series Timeline

11th century BCE

- The Ruqun becomes a formal garment in China (1000 BCE) [Coming Soon]

8th century BCE

- Chinese clothing becomes highly hierarchical (771 BCE) [Coming Soon] 

3rd century BCE

Xi Shi (flourished c201-900CE); The Drunken Lotus Bijin

2cnd century BCE

        - The Han Dynasty

0000 Current Era

1st century

        - Han Tomb portraiture begins as an extension of Confucian Ancestor Worship; first Han aesthetic                                scholars dictate how East Asian composition and art ethics begin

                       - Isometric becomes the standard for East Asian Composition (c.100); Dahuting Tomb Murals

                       - Ban Zhao introduces Imperial Court to her Lessons for Women (c106);                                      Women play major roles in the powerplay of running of China consistently                                until 1000 CE, influencing Beauty standards

                       - Qiyun Shengdong begins to make figures more plump and Bijin-like (c.150) but still pious

4th century

Gu Kaizhi (active 364-406); Metaphorical Beauty

        - Chinese Artists begin to make aesthetic beauties in ethereal religious roles of heavenly Nymphs

                       - Luo River Nymph Tale (c.400)

          - Womens clothing emphasized the waist as the Guiyi (Swallow-Tail Flying Ribbons) style (c.400)

                       - Wise and Benevolent Women (c.400)

5th century

          - Chinese Art becomes decadent; Imperial Culture begins to see more expression in religious statues (c450)

                       - Longmen Grotto Boddhisattvas (471)

6th century

           - Women begin inspiring Pining Love poetry inspiring many artists

Xu Ling; (active 537-583); Gongti or Palace Bijin [Coming Soon] https://www.jstor.org/stable/495525?seq=2#metadata_info_tab_contents

7th century

            - Tang Dynasty Art (618-908)

           - Rouged Bijin (600-699 CE) [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty

Yan Liben (active 642-673); Bodhisattva Bijin [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A1.jpg Guan Yin 

Wu Zetian (active 665-705); The Great Tang Art Patron [Coming Soon]

Asuka Bijin (c.699); The Wa Bijin

8th century

            - Princess Yongtai's Veneration Murals (701) [Coming Soon]

- Introduction of Chinese Tang Dynasty clothing (710)

- Sumizuri-e (710)

Yang Yuhuan Guifei (719-756); [Coming Soon] East Asian Supermodel Bijin https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/275768522.pdf https://factsanddetails.com/china/cat2/4sub9/entry-5437.html#chapter-5

Zhang Xuan (active 720-755); [Coming Soon]

- What is now Classical Chinese Art forms

                    - An Lushun Rebellion (757) 

 Zhou Fang (active 766-805) ; Qiyun Bijin

- Emakimono Golden Age (799-1400)

9th century

                       - Buddhist Bijin [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty#/media/File:Noble_Ladies_Worshiping_Buddha.jpg + https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mogao_Caves#/media/File:Anonymous-Bodhisattva_Leading_the_Way.jpg

10th century

                       -End of Tang Art (907)

13th century

                     - Heimin painters; 1200-1850; Town Beauty

15th century 

- Fuzokuga Painting schools; Kano (1450-1868) and Tosa (1330-1690) 

Tang Yin (active 1490-1524); Chinese Beauties [Coming Soon] https://www.comuseum.com/painting/masters/tang-yin/ 

16 century 

- Nanbanjin Art (1550-1630) 

- Wamono style begins under Chanoyu teachings (c1550-1580)

- Byobu Screens (1580-1670)

 - End of Sengoku Jidai brings Stabilisation policy (1590-1615)  

17th century  

- Land to Currency based Economy Shift (1601-1655)

- Early Kabuki Culture (1603-1673) ; Yakusha-e or Actor Prints

- Machi-Eshi Art ( 1610 - 1710) ; The Town Beauty

- Sumptuary legislation in reaction to the wealth of the merchant classes (1604-1685) 

- Regulation of export and imports of foreign trade in silk and cotton (1615-1685)  

Iwasa Matabei (active 1617-1650) ; Yamato-e Bijin  

The Hikone Screen (c.1624-1644) [Coming Soon]

- Sankin-Kotai (1635-1642) creates mass Urbanisation  

- Popular culture and print media production moves from Kyoto to Edo (1635-1650); Kiyohara Yukinobu (1650-1682) ; Manji Classical Beauty

- Shikomi-e (1650-1670) and Kakemono-e which promote Androgynous Beauties;

 Iwasa Katsushige (active 1650-1673) ; Kojin Bijin

- Mass Urbanisation instigates the rise of Chonin Cottage Industry Printing (1660-1690) ; rise of the Kabunakama Guilds and decline of the Samurai

- Kanazoshi Books (1660-1700); Koshokubon Genre (1659?-1661)

- Shunga (1660-1722); Abuna-e

Kanbun Master/School (active during 1661-1673) ; Maiko Bijin 

- Hinagata Bon (1666 - 1850) 

- Ukiyo Monogatari is published by Asai Ryoi (1666) 

Yoshida Hanbei (active 1664-1689) ; Toned-Down Bijin

- Asobi/Suijin Dress Manuals (1660-1700)

- Ukiyo-e Art (1670-1900)

Hishikawa Moronobu (active 1672-1694) ; Wakashu Bijin

- Early Bijin-ga begin to appear as Kakemono (c.1672)  

- Rise of the Komin-Chonin Relationship (1675-1725)

- The transit point from Kosode to modern Kimono (1680); Furisode, Wider Obi 

- The Genroku Osaka Bijin (1680 - 1700) ; Yuezen Hiinakata

Sugimura Jihei (active 1681-1703) ; Technicolour Bijin 

- The Amorous Tales are published by Ihara Saikaku (1682-1687)

Hishikawa Morofusa (active 1684-1704) [Coming Soon]

- The Beginning of the Genroku Era (1688-1704)

- The rise of the Komin and Yuujo as mainstream popular culture (1688-1880) 

- The consolidation of the Bijinga genre as mainstream pop culture 

- The rise of the Torii school (1688-1799) 

- Tan-E (1688-1710)   

Miyazaki Yuzen (active 1688-1736) ; Genroku Komin and Wamono Bijin 

Torii Kiyonobu (active 1688 - 1729) : Commercial Bijin

Furuyama Moromasa (active 1695-1748)

18th century

Nishikawa Sukenobu (active 1700-1750) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Ando (active 1700-1736) ; Broadstroke Bijin

Okumura Masanobu (active 1701-1764)

Kaigetsudo Doshin (active 1704-1716) [Coming Soon]

Baioken Eishun (active 1710-1755) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Anchi (active 1714-1716) [Coming Soon]

Yamazaki Joryu (active 1716-1744) [Coming Soon]

1717 Kyoho Reforms

Miyagawa Choshun (active 1718-1753) [Coming Soon]

Miyagawa Issho (active 1718-1780) [Coming Soon]

Nishimura Shigenaga (active 1719-1756) [Coming Soon]

Matsuno Chikanobu (active 1720-1729) [Coming Soon]

- Beni-E (1720-1743)

Torii Kiyonobu II (active 1725-1760) [Coming Soon]

- Uki-E (1735-1760)

Kawamata Tsuneyuki (active 1736-1744) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (1739-1820)

Miyagawa Shunsui (active from 1740-1769) [Coming Soon]

Benizuri-E (1744-1760)

Ishikawa Toyonobu (active 1745-1785) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Settei (active 1753-1787) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1756-1787) [Coming Soon]

Shunsho Katsukawa (active 1760-1793) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyoharu (active 1763-1814) [Coming Soon]

Suzuki Harunobu (active 1764-1770) [Coming Soon]

- Nishiki-E (1765-1850)

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1765-1815) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (active 1765-1820) [Coming Soon]

Maruyama Okyo (active 1766-1795) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Utamaro (active 1770-1806) [Coming Soon]

Kubo Shunman (active 1774-1820) [Coming Soon]

Tsutaya Juzaburo (active 1774-1797) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunimasa (active from 1780-1810) [Coming Soon]

Tanehiko Takitei (active 1783-1842) [Coming Soon]

Katsukawa Shuncho (active 1783-1795) [Coming Soon]

Choubunsai Eishi (active 1784-1829) [Coming Soon]

Eishosai Choki (active 1786-1808) [Coming Soon]

Rekisentei Eiri (active 1789-1801) [Coming Soon] [https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ukiyo-e_paintings#/media/File:Rekisentei_Eiri_-_'800),_Beauty_in_a_White_Kimono',_c._1800.jpg]

Chokosai Eisho (active 1792-1799) [Coming Soon]

Kunimaru Utagawa (active 1794-1829) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyokuni II (active 1794 - 1835) [Coming Soon]

Ryūryūkyo Shinsai (active 1799-1823) [Coming Soon]

19th century

Teisai Hokuba (active 1800-1844) [Coming Soon]

Totoya Hokkei (active 1800-1850) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada Toyokuni III (active 1800-1865) [Coming Soon]

Urakusai Nagahide (active from 1804) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Tsukimaro (active 1804 - 1836)

Kikukawa Eizan (active 1806-1867) [Coming Soon]

Keisai Eisen (active 1808-1848) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kuniyoshi (active 1810-1861) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Hiroshige (active 1811-1858) [Coming Soon]

Yanagawa Shigenobu (active 1818-1832) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada II (active 1844-1880) [Coming Soon]

Toyohara Kunichika (active 1847-1900) [Coming Soon]

Kano Hogai (active 1848-1888) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Yoshitoshi (active 1850-1892) [Coming Soon]

Toyohara Chikanobu (active 1875-1912) [Coming Soon]

Kiyokata Kaburaki (active 1891-1972) [Coming Soon]

Goyo Hashiguchi (active 1899-1921) [Coming Soon]

20th century

Yumeji Takehisa (active 1905-1934) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kotondo (active 1915-1976) [Coming Soon]

Yamakawa Shūhō (active 1927-1944) [Coming Soon]


Social Links

One stop Link shop: https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest

https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav 

https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw 

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/ 

Sunday, December 11, 2022

ひとめ刺し | Hitomezashi | Single Stab Stitch | Pattern #16

Hitome-sashi/zashi (One Stab Stitch) is a type of Sashiko stitching.[1] Sashiko stitching being the famous white on blue technique of almost embroidery. The stitch makes up a geometric pattern from these white running stitches, sometimes wide sometimes miniscule to decorate or repair fabrics in a grid pattern.[2] As a task, Sashiko is said to be both therapeutic and time-consuming requiring a great deal of patience and concentration. Hitomezashi derives mostly from the practical applications of Sashiko and therefore was historically used for work uniforms, today it is mostly for repairing old clothstuffs. Many older examples come from Noragi (  野良着 | Workcoats) and Sashiko no Donzu (Fishermens coats) that have survived.[4]

Hitomezashi was originally used by Heimin as a way to mend old farming and fishermens textiles like Hemp or Ramie from the North of Japan, from around the Yamagata to Hokkaido areas.[1][4] Items started out life as Kosode, then became bags, aprons and cleaning rags.[4] Between 1600 - 1850, a majority of the working classes produced their own textiles due to the expense of buying new fabrics. It is thought that decorative stitches such as Hitomezashi originated as an ergonomic way to mend, fill in and layer fabrics for winter, becoming decorative through processes such as Tsukuroi-Sashi ( 繕いー刺しDarning Sashiko) by using undyed thread and repeatedly Darning older textiles into new ones every year. These skills were taught in school and at home to the children of farmers and fishermen.[4] Hitomezashi also spread around Japan byway of major trade routes like the Tokaido.[2][3]

Hitomezashi (c1850[2017], PD) Mr Bolton

During the Meiji period with the increase of Japan Inc, Japanese culture spread globally. Thus when agricultural workers moved to Hawaii, they took Hitomezashi with them, using it to repair their work clothes there, spreading the textile.[5] It may have also spread to Continental North America and other countries in the British Empire as it was popular during the 70's and 80's to adopt Japanese adjacent techniques among the middle class as an domestic Aestheticism (1868-1899) embroidery technique. In Japan with the promulgation of the industrialization efforts of Meiji Japan, Japan Inc. began to introduce new fabrics by 1870, making cotton available for those in Northern Japan.[3] In 1884, 'Sanitary Dress' was sent by the Japanese Government to display Health in the Workplace at the Health Exhibition. In the Exhibition  (likely Hitomezashi), Sashiko was displayed to showcase how Mens uniforms (Hakama) were made in Japan.[6] 

By the beginning of the 20th century however, Hitomezashi began to fall out of usage in favour of modern textiles flashy textiles. Meisen became more popular and workwear often became Tsumugi and  other wools as Japan Inc expanded in the 1910s and 20s.[7] Whilst Hitomezashi fell out of widespread use by the 1950s due to the import of quilting, older generations still held onto and used the technique. Northern Japanese communities still practice and teach Sashiko classes, a practice around since at least the 1990s. In the modern day, Kogin (another type of Sashiko) developed from Hitomezashi stitch.[4]

Bibliography

[1] Sashiko 365: Stitch a new sashiko embroidery pattern every day of the year, Susan Briscoe, 2022, p.5 | https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=fyqdEAAAQBAJ&pg=PT6&dq=sashiko+farmers&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjp59Wyhe37AhWPSMAKHdO4BtQQuwV6BAgKEAc#v=onepage&q=sashiko%20farmers&f=false

[2] https://www.athreadedneedle.com/blogs/with-a-threaded-needle/sashiko-kogin-hitomezashi-boro-what-are-we-stitching 

[3] Sashiko Pattern Book for Beginners: A Japanese Embroidery Art of Stitching, Angela Kemp, 2010, pp.10-11

[4] The Ultimate Sashiko Sourcebook: Patterns, Projects and Inspirations, Susan Briscoe, 2016, pp.8-15

[5] Japanese Immigrant Clothing in Hawaii 1885-1941, Barbara F. Kawakami, 1995

[6] Health Exhibition Literature, Executive Council of the International Health Exhibition, Council for the Society of the Arts, 1884, p.605 | https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=2fYTAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA605&dq=sashiko&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiTptDkm-37AhUxTEEAHbStBKcQuwV6BAgEEAY#v=onepage&q=sashiko&f=false

[7] See Fabrics #5

Socials:

https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest

https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav or https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ or https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw, or https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/

Sunday, March 13, 2022

浅井 了意 | Asai Ryoi | 1612-1691 | Essay #13

This essay will explore the legacy of Asai Ryoi on KTC. Who was Asai Ryoi you may ask? Only one of the most important writers for the Ukiyo genre. Asai Ryoi ( active 1661-1691 | 浅井 了意 ) was a prolific Ukiyo-zoshi ( Books of the floating world | 浮世草子 )  or Kana-zoshi  ( Heimin Japanese Books | 仮名草子 ) writer.[1] His leading 1661 publication, lambasted and satirized Buddhism and Samurai culture of restraint in favour of the Chonin lifestyle of worldy excess.[1]

Ukiyo

Kanazoshi celebrated contemporary urban life. It was Ryoi's Ukiyo Monogatari ( Tales of the Floating World | 浮世物語 | 1661 ) which saw Buddhism infused using the Kanazoshi genre. The writing term Ukiyo, ( Transitory World | 浮世 ) describes the homophone allusion to the Buddhist Ukiyo ( The Sorrow filled World | 憂き世 ) which describes what Buddhist call Dukkha ( Suffering ) under Impernance ( Mujyou | 無常 ) due to the ongoing nature of change in human lives.[2] This was essentially a tongue-in-cheek way of pointing out how in this transitory world of suffering due to change in human lives, and therefore you should live a decadent lifestyle to cope with all of the Dukkha. Buddhists would say otherwise though, as they generally lived as Ascetics, not as Decadents.[1] 

Ukiyo Zoshi

The Ukiyo-Zoshi genre came about due to Ryois 1661 Monogatari which questioned the real value between leading an ascetic lead and decadent lifestyle and as to how best understand the meaning of the mortal and immortal realm of what Buddhism termed the ultimate goal of reaching the Pure Land or Buddha-field ( Jyoudo | 浄土 ).[3] It is important to understand the man, because it was this framework which launched this genre, Japans first major popular genre of literature.[4]

This framework was a lauded response to the major problems faced by Japanese society at the time. After the tumultuous period of civil war which Japan had just left, the Japanese found themselves in a new era of peace. As Sankin Kotai had moved the Heimin, created the Chonin, and uprooted the Samurai, Japanese society had a more stable economy and thus more leverage as a society for great numbers of people to have a greater quality of life. As such, decadence became more prevalent. It was in this newly peaceful world that values began to brought into the spotlight and new ethics and morals brought by emigrant Heimin; and more available to us, Chonin; who decided which of these where more important than others.

As such, Ukiyo-Monogatari reflects this new impetus by a form of archival liberation[5] of the Buddhist teachings. Ryoi attempts to reflect on what would later be codified as the Mono-no-aware theme which reflects on the beauty found in the passing of time and its transitory nature. His main character even through his decadent lifestyle, still finds Enlightenment by the end of the tale. It was this which gave the impetus for kindling the 'rightness' we can say, of the Chonin in their ways and wiles as being as valid as the ascetic monk and the upright retainer. It was this narrative of Enlightened Chonin pockets, that Saikaku would run with by creating the formal conventions of the genre on the back of Ryois and earlier trashier works 'critiquing' womens appearance between 1640-1650, by 1685.

Kambun Komin KTC

As part of Kambun KTC, we can also see the emergence of the material effects of the rise of the living standards for Chonin. As the Stabilisation policies brought economic prosperity to those previously living in poverty, they and their children enjoyed increasingly the fruits of this closed economy. This included an increased patronage of 'Japanese' artists such as the Machi-Eshi for those with means, and Komin or artist-craftsmen for the rest. This development came after 1639 through Sakoku, and saw a shift from dirty 'foreign' styles towards conservative styles, in painting this was the Fuzokuga-E depictions of Buddhist scenes for example rather the Kano Byobu of the Nanbanjin traders (made from 1590-1630).[6] 

The 1650s in particular saw a rise in art patronage of worldly pursuits.[6] That decade was defined by the struggle between the Komin like Iwasa Matabei (1578-1650) who existed between the brush and reality, and the samurai ruling class who sought to impose their moral codes onto the new money crowd. By the Kambun era though, the pursuit of erotic Kabuki dancers, the newly established Yuujo quarters all wrapped up in a Kimono Obi was a public affair as it seems the Chonin had become increasingly tired of hearing how salvation (Buddhahood) only came to the wealthy military elites. Over the period, the hypocritical nature of this state of a hyperfocus on the elite courts practiced since the Heian period began to shift in favour of creating a standard for the everyday person. And as the saying goes, you write about what you know first.

Their later Kambun beauty standards, as espoused in the Kambun Bijin, were in flux between this convergence of reconciling conservative Japanese Buddhist and Confucious values, with the new money lifestyle which the elites practiced themselves only to deny the Heimin. In this light, the Heimin seems to have seen fit to find Enlightenment in the arms of their Kagema or Wakashu in Yoshiwara, just as the lord found his in his Wakashu. The Heimin art of this period is truly a wonderful mess, like a teenager trying to find their way through puberty, it reflects a series of confusions of intentions, directions and solidarity of style. However by the middle of the decade, Kambun style begins to emerge in the hands of Komin-Chonin of publishers and illustrators like Hishikawa Moronobu (1618-1694), Kambun Master (act. 1661-1673) and Yoshida Hanbei (c.1664-1692).[7]

With Heimin now running the show as the merchant classes, their handiwork began to rewrite the beauty standards and it is during the Kambun period with which the rules for KTC begin to be liberally  rewritten. Their earlier incarnation, the Dress Manual, often gives away the acceptability politics game wealtheir Chonin played by, and other more artistic ventures done by the Komin-Chonin types reveals this shift towards Heimin worldview as the new standard. This standard often incurred the pursuit of those erotic Kabuki dancers and the Yuujo, particularly Tayuu as models. The fashions worn by these androgynous figures however, were made by those Komin-Chonin figures such as Hanbei, Moronobou and Asai Ryoi.

The Ryoi Enso

Enso are those non-complete Zen calligraphy circles you find labelled in pretentious Japanese art collections which simply put are an appreciation of when the hand has been allowed to wander in a circular form void of all worldly thought. The Ryoi Enso is that by the time society had come to grasp the inherent dual nature of Ukiyo Monogatari, the ineffable nature later to be called Mono-no-Aware had coem to be attached to many material things as an extension of the appreciation of transience in the human life. Objects had being given new meaning and understanding. Just as finding in watching passing Blossoms fall that this was beautiful, Objects had come to be appreciated as part of this new moral understanding of the physical world. The Japanese public had by 1670 also realised that Worldly material objects were also Mujyou, and this was celebrated.

As a material object, Kimono were also Mujyou, and thus the Kosode as an art object was born. Finding beauty in the transitory nature of textiles gave designers, craftsmen and artists overlap as was only seen before for the patronage of the Machi-Eshi. This work was now in the worldly domain of the Komin, such as Ryoi who interpreted this new Mujyou Art Object as it was now understood, through their Heimin lifestyles. Work was commissioned by Ryoi's own patrons in his own hand for his Shinsen O-Hiinagata, which captures the prototypes of what these Ukiyo or Urban lifestyles offerred. Artists saw Kimono now as an extension of their own imperment lives, a Mujyou canvas so to speak.

Shinsen Hiinagata (1667, PD) Asai Ryoi, British Library
Red Striped Shibori Zodiac Pattern

Shinsen Hiinagata (1667, PD) Asai Ryoi, British Library
Chrysanthemum Pattern

These art Kimono obviously still reflected the transient nature which had preceded them of course, and this is what I mean when I refer to the messiness of the Art Kimono. The Art Kimono, like Aesthetic dress, had to conform to the pre-existing silhouette at first, however the fabrics and aesthetics such as Ma in composition, and devlopment for Kimono of motifs as an extension of Mujyou, show us how the Art Kimono of the Kambun period came to be. As we see in Ryoi's work, the two-tone is still clearly prominent given the date, but the designs displayed are pushed to the right, a sign of good luck, and incorporate tacky motifs such as calligraphy and oversized motifs in the case of the Chrysanthemum.[9]

Examples of Pattern Books

Kosode Hiinagata (1667, PD) Anonymous, Meturo

Contemporary Kimono Patterns (1677, PD) Hishikawa Moronobu

Examples of Dress Manuals

Onna Shorei Shuu Tagasode (1660) Anonymous, NYPL
Dress and Table Manners from Rules of Etiquette for Women (1666) Yamada Ichirobei

Into the future

This lifestyle of Ukiyo or Chonin decadence had by this time moved over into money laundering schemes to combat sumptuary laws making art Kimono. Art Kimono can be pinpointed to the late Kambun era specifically as it is in this juncture when we see the greatest proliferation of Kosode sample books, Hinagata Bon and how existing Kimono design shifts to favour popular designs made popular by the masses rather than the ruling military elites who would have been the only group to have access to funds to make wide reaching purchases of lavish materials and skilled workers beforehand in any realistic amount. Fashionable Kosode for Heimin before this time, consisted of two tone patterns. By 1672, this had changed to favour styles like the Osaka Genroku Bijin, which saw drastic changes to the composition of Kimono, acceptable aesthetical influences, motifs, colours and techniques to design KTC with.

[Before] the Kambun era (1661-1673) Kosode were generally two colours and woven with metallic thread and goldleaf. During the introduction of foreign textiles and rise of the new middle classes from the import of cotton and sarasa, tastes, colour schemes and bank balances changed. B[etween 1665-]1684, the colour schemes of Kosode worn by the townspeople and [elites] became darker at the bottom, lighter at the top, to show off wealth as darker Kosode meant more dye, which required deep pockets [...] worn by Chonin wives, well paid Kabuki performers, and the Tayuu which became 'Iki' (1680s sexy). Popular dark dyes included Beni reds (amongst samurai) / Nise-kurenai (fake/ Dutch reds for the rest) and purples. [...] Regular women would simply don striped variations, or indigo Kimono [with] singular motifs, and both would go decorate their Kosode with wordly scenes, so scenes of the city. [...] Provincial districts and merchants now set the new standard, with Osaka frequently overtaking Kyoto artwares as fashionable. The Kosode of the Genroku Bijin [...] would often have use[d] new technologies to create vivid, wordly scenery on their kosode [with] Onnagata and Tayuu were often seen in these styles. Younger and poorer women [were found] sticking to older Kosode fabrics such as hemp, striped cottons, linens, ramie, plant fibres or indigos with layered recycled fabrics involving the Sashiko stitch (Stab stitch). They indeed often made their own Kosode, and by the middle of the 17th century weaving was a valuable skill for rural women. [8]

Aesthetical Enlightenment

This we can contextually see, resulted in what may be termed the Mono-no-aware Kimono. I dont say Kosode, but rather to refer to this being how we result from the pre-Kambun two tone Kosode to by the end of the era, the polychromatic and compositionally shifted Art Kosode as a reflection of a journey in the shift in though which Ryoi begins in his Ukiyo Monogatari. That is an awareness in Kambun KTC for the need to have a change in physical appearance to reflect Buddhist sensibilities in dress, in showing the transition of dress as a practicality in the Sengoku Jidai, to one of fashion for everyday people in these times of stable prosperity. 

Kosode were created in response to the dawning realisation that Buddhist aesthetics under Japanese notions, stressed the issue of Impermanence. Kimono were seen as an extension of the human existence, as they were tangible objects created around humans. They were therefore part and parcel of Dukkha, and should be experienced as such as part of this. Artists gave rise to this in their creation of Mujyou inspired designs in their Pattern Books, which inadvertently created fashion contrary to that of the stingy conservative Dress Manual. It was this shift in thinking about material life and objects, which saw the transformation of Decadent textiles into the Kosode as Art by appreciating that textiles were also Mujyou, and that each component of their construction and use was also Mujyou in creating the Kambun KTC Art Kimono, based on the Asai Ryoi Ukiyo framework to reach Englightenment.

Bibliography

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asai_Ry%C5%8Di 

[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impermanence and also see the Glossary

[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pure_land 

[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ukiyo-z%C5%8Dshi 

[5] See the Glossary

[6] See Bijin #9

[7] See Essay #8 

[8] See Bijin #3 

[9] https://blogs.bl.uk/asian-and-african/2020/02/exquisite-patterns-japanese-textile-design-books.html 

Socials:

https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest

https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav or https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ or https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw, or https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/

I had exciting topics

 and then I got sick. and then I got heatstroke. and then my home became 35 degrees. and then i was sick again. and then i got mild food poi...