Her Haughtynesses Decree

Showing posts with label Embroidery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Embroidery. Show all posts

Sunday, February 9, 2025

Elizabeth I Portraiture | Musings

 Elizabeth I created a standard for portraiture in the Early Modern English age of the artform of portraiture. Remember that the time when the paintings were created was often after death or around specific large events as the creation of anything bigger than a palimpsest book or illustrated biblical pocketbook was a marvel given the distance that the ingredients and materials required to create these works travelled and in the circumstances under which they were created. Portrait miniatures were often instead the primary visual medium at the time, not the grand canvas and tapestry scales many royal portraits took in this time. These were created specifically to conjure an idea of grandeur, majesty and awe. Portrait minatures were successfully launched to England by Levina Teerlinc (c.1510-1576) from illuminated manuscript production under the workshop of her continental Dutch father and prior artists who had dabbled after 1450 in some miniatures. She and Esther Inglis, as well as Thomas Hilliard are widely known as some of the more popular portrait miniaturists of the Elizabethan and Tudor court periods.


Keep in mind that Elizabethan portraiture is heavily edited as the portrait was always after the same Darnley likenesses of around 1560 which is why her portraits appear so similar after this time when she ascended to the throne. They were tools of power and authority to symbolise the literal editing of the historical narrative to one befitting a Gynocentric one from this time on. Feminism in the truest sense of the term. These symbolic tools incorporated Elizabeth widely read usage of European and further afield symbolic allegory of mythology taken from Classical and contemporary sources as Elizabeth herself spoke and read in around 6-9 languages fluently and certainly came into contact with many more, a large number of which are today extinct or obsolete languages.[1] 

Some of the artists whom Elizabeth worked with being Hilliard, Cornelis Ketel, Federico Zuccaro or Zuccari, Isaac Oliver, and perhaps Gower and Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger. Many of these later editions were created with the intent of being shown to foreign powers, including foreign countries/regions and individuals in the earlier period of Elizabeth's reign. Local work for local owners of portraits in the British elites were laid along their long galleries which paid homage to Elizabeth as Queen specifically to curry favour within her royal court, and became fashionable architectural elements of Elizabethan grand manors. This zeitgeist has been referred to as the cult of Gloriana.

The Family of Henry VIII 1545

Not a sole portrait but this gives us the grounding for the type of world into which Elizabeth was born into. When she was first entering the world into which she found herself she was simply the image that was projected before the world for the benefit of her father. 

That is she was the progeny of a great man in a world of great men and not regarded by those in charge of enough money to commission portraiture at the time worth much more, particularly in the idea of the formation of the state craft portraiture certainly for the Tudor s that these matters entailed. Here she is shown very simply as a child in their parental charges, albeit as a princess of a second failed marriage which had by then been moved on into the third, which was seen as surpassing both Mary and Elizabeths importance for that of their brother who would go on to die as a child and having left very little impact other than to confirm that he was indeed a 14 year old boy from the get-go.

Instead this is an image which represented for Elizabeth the hell into which she had been born. The dynastic succession disputes created and caused utterly by the rakish whims of her rakish father figure. This also confirms her position within the court circles of painters such as Hans Holbein and the role portraiture conveyed in her life, as well as her familiarity and adoption of painting and portraiture to convey particular roles into the forward motions of court life and states craft.[2]

Lady Elizabeth Tudor 1546 

The earliest portraits of Elizabeth were her 1546 portrait as a teenager. At the time she was inbetween the care of her mother and being a ward of the crown due to her father's sinful displays of domination towards her father by cruelly ripping her away from her care and into the hands of her new cardinal, who proceeded to try to fondle her buttocks at the tender age of 14. This was the world Elizabeth was born into and expected to have her entire life dictated by, the whims and wishes of mediocre male mortals. 

Instead we can also infer the symbolism inherent in the family lore Elizabeth was positioned between as the daughter of Anne Boleyn. Boleyn was the chaste mother of Elizabeth, who became pregnant after Henry VIII decided to be a little rake that year. He was inbetween his situationship with his current wife, and because he wanted Anne, he decided to make a new state religion and get with his mistress anyway because even the Pope thought he was being too much of a rake for anyone's good. Boleyn in this portraiture is thought to have given her teenage daughter this dress, as it was her favourite colour, and a short while after was sent to the execution block because Henry was back on his rake business because his gout had lead to his spermatozoa becoming infertile, but rather than blame his own failing, disgusting health and habits, he blamed his mistr-wife. 

So in her 1546 portrait, we can see the sort of world and decisions that Elizabeth was allowed to make. None. She existed in a power vacuum based on her Rakish father's decisions of the week, leading to the death of her mother and the destruction of her half-sisters relationships, as a state between being the rightful heir and the ungrateful protestant allowed to live in a predominantly, albeit continental, Catholic European hierarchical structure until Henry created Anglicanism. Even by the artists own hand, this was meant to be a portrait which limited excessive ornamentation, therefore focusing the attention away from luxe towards the purity of Elizabeth in youth as a young, plain girl. This of course sounds ridiculous with hindsight, but remember that at this time Elizabeth's mother had just died for being in the wrong place at the wrong time according to the 'Men' around them both, and in making out Elizabeth to be just a plain, garden variety princess this emphasised her unimportant status at the time. In other words, masking her status to protect her from a fate like that of her mother's by attracting 'the wrong kind of attention' beheaded women of the period seemed to find themselves alongside. Instead, the 1546 portrait was meant to say to a viewer 'here is the daughter of an ex-royal, nothing to see here'. Meanwhile, Elizabeth was in grieving for her mother, whom she could not legally speaking mourn in the traditional manner given it was the kings will the women aforementioned be put to death, in a parting gift from her mother whilst balancing the duties of incumbent and non-incumbent royal court duties.

Symbolic objects such as roses or prayer books were included in some of Elizabeth's earliest portraits. Prayer books indicated her love of reading, study and piety, perhaps also an elevated sense of progressiveness associated with allowing a woman to rule at the time, along with the fact that Elizabeth could even read at the time at all. When these things came to be in the sense of roses, these were harkening to the Tudor lineage through the War of Roses succession crisis of the previous centuries. For her medieval audience (remember we are talking about matters of state) her roses would have signified a dual meaning of her lineage and also millefleur tapestries depiction of the Madonna, a significant replacement of the Catholic imagery when these were used in later portraiture.

On this matter of purity and the death of her mother, this was a constant in her early life. To the point that in a statement to her incumbent parliament on the matter of succession, she declared: ‘Assuredly, if my successor were known to the world, I would never esteem my state to be safe.’[5] Death for women was a constant, and in the Henry Tudor realm, they were seen as particularly replaceable objects. In this way, purity becomes a symbol for the matter of which Elizabeth projected out to the world, whilst also following her own follies and differing opinions from that of men. She instead projected herself onto England in a bid to both self-sacrifice and renew the flailing state the country had been left in under the succession crisis and disputes created by her father and some men in the time of her youth to lead her to needing to be a pure, chaste, virgin Queen outwardly, whilst her inwards world was one of books, learning, poetry, mythology, favourites, ladies in waiting, games, warfare, state policy and day to day theatricals.

After this time, this purity of image was perhaps as a coping mechanism maintained by Elizabeth in her portraiture. It is thought she may have requested this matter in the way Hilliard was said to reduce the amount of ornament, falsity and chiaroscuro included in portraits of her through 1560 to 1580 for example. This was held to be such the case that in a Proclamation from 1563 (1563 memorandum), there was a great discussion of Elizabeth's being depicted in 'blacke with a hoode and cornet', a style which held the wearer to be a pious Christian women, as found in the portrait miniature of her be Levina Teerlinc from 1550 for use in a private capacity.. something which by this time with Elizabeths ascendance to the throne and thus increased need for legitimacy to shoulder the Tudor dynasty as only the second female ruler in the Kingdom of England to do so, was an unbefitting image of the Elizabethan queen, instead more suitable for a Tudor princess. 

Hilliard was introduced around this timeframe as the apprentice to Elizabeth's jeweller, Robert Brandon, showcasing that there was a general feeling by Elizabeth already at this time of the importance of having creatives around her and encouraging their work. Elizabeth in this way gave money to Protestant and British creatives, such as Hilliard, Brandon and Treelinc during these times to make miniatures, manuscripts, bibles, jewelry, portraits and paintings. She was in this way responsible for some of the overall milieu of the art world in the wake of Shakespeare, goldscraft, embroidery, tapestries and other artforms which sprang up and flourished during her reign.

Hampden portrait 1560

Thus the Hampden portrait was introduced into the fray by the English court painter, George Gower.  Here she is depicted in the work as an upright person in colour. She is depicted as wearing the Red rose of the House of Lancaster and a gillyflower. The Rose sits atop a chair, commentating on her link to the royal lineage as a viably legitimate candidate in a time after 2 centuries of instability and random candidates from the leading Platagenet and other branch families of the English royal family. She is firmly stating that the House of Lancaster is where she does her allegiances and heritage towards, rather than perhaps the incredible instability the House of York had held during that century. The Gillyflower may be a reference either to Shakespeare, or to peppercorn rents, which may have indicated to a select few the actual budget allocation a young queen was intending to expend. This was a direct fiscal reaction to her father's lavish expenditures, such as those rakish matters of state as the Agincourt battle of the Field of the Cloth of Gold of 1520, where Henry VIII had a habit of overspending on. In turn however in the use of the Gillyflower, the implied message back from the Queen's barter was that of 'Socage shall be applied', ie, lords may have their lavish spending and the Queen hers on occassion to please the matter of appeasing the general populace and pleasing the aristocratic court, but in return Socage (pledging allegiance to a monarch whose land a feudal lord resided on) must applied in return, as had applied in the time of Edward VI under his Quia Emptores (1290) which dictated that English land cannot be given away willy nilly without the authorisation of proper authorities. In other words, I will be the head of your messy realm, but you will serve absolute allegiance to my authority or else. This was a regular message with implied undertones to a select number of aristocratic elites who may have been planning subterfuge or treasonous activities involving the usage of English land and coffers to do so. 

The incredibly expensive carpet she stands atop which may have indicated her trade allegiances at the time as she began the initation in the 1570s (letters travel by boat then) towards the Anglo-Moroccan alliance of her loyalties and interests as a new monarch. Behind her is what appears to be either a tapestry or some kind of collection of fruit, most of which was mostly a brag about how much money and mostly connections she had to be able to afford such luxuries as fresh fruits, mostly as many of these seeds came from places like the New World or the earth of Elizabeth's many great estates. This is mostly signified by what appears to be some kind of tool or anchor (?) in the bottom right which seems to have be related to these fruit varieties most likely. This also makes reference to the peppercorn rents, as peppercorn was used as a bartering system during this time due to frequent famines, but was also an exotic luxury good deemed at the time more valuable than gold as a spice of the East Indies. Thus these items were traded for feudal rights to plough and own land to the crown and other feudal headmen systems.

All in all the Hampden portrait gives the idea that this a general portrait of a new stable queen. The significance of this is that most of the issue surrounding Elizabeth at this time were instability from other family members trying to take the throne. Albeit whilst her 'gloves are off', meaning she will wage war for her throne through her claim in the other hand, she is sitting for a generally human portrait in comparison to later portraiture claimature. This was a theme which was often revisited in the gloves, and which would start a long glove craze in the successive courts of James VI of Scotland in a bid to be even a tenth of the human being Elizabeth was whilst James burnt witches and screwed everything except his wife. In this way for Elizabeth, gloves were a sign of favour which came with the territory of kissing the hand so to speak. She though long fingers, her own in other words, were a sign of elegance and royalty.[4]

Elizabeth I and the Three Goddesses 1569

Here Elizabeth begins to use portraiture as part of state crafting and nation building through her knowledge of classical mythology. The portrait here involves the usage of the story of the Judgement of Paris.
 "Eris, the goddess of discord, was not invited to the wedding of Peleus and Thetis. In revenge, she brought a golden apple, inscribed, "To the fairest one," which she threw into the wedding. Three guests, Hera, Athena and Aphrodite, after some disputation, agreed to have Paris of Troy choose the fairest one. Paris chose Aphrodite, she having bribed him with the most beautiful mortal woman in the world, Helen of Sparta, wife of Menelaus. Consequently, Paris carried Helen off to Troy, and the Greeks invaded Troy for Helen's return. Eris' Apple of Discord was thus the instrumental casus belli (or her not being invited to the wedding in the first place) of the Trojan War."
Instead of Paris, a figure whom Elizabeth deliberately depicts herself as thereby inducing the stature and posturing Paris is meant to invoke in a reader, as she would have seen and done so herself. 

In the portraiture, she is the one now commanding the 3 goddesses Juno, Venus and Pallas-Minerva who abide by her command at the bottom of a step. This may have started as a sort of self insert fanfiction, however the end result is again, that of states craft. The matter at hand is that of the impending crisis that the Trojan wars depict the fall of Troy, whereas it is said that the portraiture herself is inversed. This was the rather unsubtle matter of saying 'I am in charge, and I will be stable'. The context here is more important the actual Queen staffage itself. The Queen here is shadowed by her predecessor, the first Queen of the realm, Mary I, also known as Bloody Mary for her particularly aggressive and cruel treatment of many of her 'subjects' during her rule. Elizabeth instead beguiles the specter by demanding the respect of her sex given that the previous Catholic monarch had fumbled the bag, earning her successive moniker. 

IVNO POTENS SCEPTRIS ET MENTIS ACVMINE PALLAS / ET ROSEO VENERIS FVLGET IN ORE DECVS / ADFVIT ELIZABETH IVNO PERCVLSA REFVGIT OBSVPVIT PALLAS ERVBVITQ VENVS'. Translated as: 'Pallas was keen of brain, Juno was queen of might, / The rosy face of Venus was in beauty shining bright, / Elizabeth then came, And, overwhelmed, Queen Juno took flight: / Pallas was silenced: Venus blushed for shame'.[4]

Indeed the world in this painting is said to be the real world, and the world on the right pure fantasy, with the royal courts insignia part of the everyday Gloriana, and the right the land of fantasy envisaged by the flight of the goddess Venus in her chariot of swans.[4]

After 1570, the queens portraiture became something the English parliaments wished to display a sense of devotion and veneration from her subjects. These were meant to replace the Catholic imagery that had come before it, of Catholic saints, of the Madonna, of the miraculous Virgin birth of Jesus. Each of the prior lose strands of these public yarns about the Queens identity were spun into a tapestry which made up her new place as the head of her fathers Rake decisions. She literally took on the mantle of making the Tudor dynasty work, work Henry had been too busy shagging rosbif to do. For example her day of accession became Accession day (tilts), and just as Queen Elizabeth II started doing her TV appearances, these become fodder for the public imagination of what an 'English queen' got up to in England. 

The Family of Henry VIII: An Allegory of the Tudor Succession 1572

This is basically a joke from Elizabeth to Francis Walshingham, Elizabeth's master spy.[3] Inside this allegorical satire, the modicum of decency shown in handing the legitimacy to the English throne is shown in the way Henry VIII directs his line of descent through the hand of her kid brother to herself shown in the age in which she was at the time the painting was commissioned by Elizabeth. This was a commentary on stability.

The carpet under which all of these individuals are stood represents the Anglican Church, which was ruled after Henry VIII by only Protestants and Catholics on occasion. Those on the carpet are said to be in Elizabeth's worldview, the rightful heirs by blood to this matter at the time. The Catholic opposition  however, displayed on the right is the Spanish ruler Phillip II who had married Mary I who had died 20 years previously. Privately, this was a matter of ridiculing the Catholic supposition to the throne as the Pope was trying to at that very moment excommunicate Elizabeth from the religion. At this time, the fracture of England to Protestantism and Lutheranism, can be seen as whole when it was a matter of personal excommunication of the English queen who had so managed to rule without the problems of Mary. It was in this manner, that Elizabeth was communicating to her medieval and by then state craft image that she was the rightful ruler and had earned her spot in the geo-social-politics of medieval European court drama that established her right to rule.

Behind Philip is Mars, the God of War, implying strife caused by Philip II's rule, at this time in England and later down the line by invoking old tensions in the future. Behind Elizabeth however are the goddesses of Peace and Plenty, a clearcut message to the generals and leaders of Elizabeth mercenaries and armies that at the helm, she would lead England for Englands sake rather than as a personal moneypot which Philip used his lands, titles and possession for, much as occurred with the Philippines in later years, and the legend of the Black death arose around the Old and New World in raised heckle against.[3] 

Indeed around the context is where Elizabeth situates herself, placing herself as specifically, in the inscription beneath it all, as 'last of all a Vyrgin Queen to England’s joy we see, Successyvely to hold the right and virtues of the three'.[3] This was most likely created to bolster the Treaty of Blois (1572) which was made to build upon an alliance of England-France versus Spain v Netherlands dynamic in a bid to make the Protestant nations stronger in continental Europe. Her master spy at the time, was the ambassador to France, so this was a cheeky way of saying, 'we shall overcome all odds Philip raises to us' as it was also implied that Philip at the time was in control of the Pope, meaning her excommunication was a personal attack from her brother-in-law who was trying to discredit her legitimacy on the basis now, not of her sex as her father had done, but on the basis of her religion, and in trying to excommunicate her and claiming she was a simply heretyck who would need to be burned at the stake to quell the anger of his omnipotent god. Philip was not a nice person. To top this off, the portrait was made by an exiled Protestant from the Spanish Netherlands.

Hilliard Miniatures

Some of the royal portrait miniatures at this time turned to Hilliard as there was some criticism of not enough royal patronage being spent on British designers and craftspeople, given that Holbein and Treelinc both came from the continent and other designers and craftspeople were often overlooked by more established craftspeople from areas such as Flanders, Antwerp and other established book publishing centres maintained by monks and other writers and manuscript illuminators. 

Pelican and Phoenix 1576

During this time, Hilliard began the Pelican and Phoenix portraits. These were both made from the same wood and complemented one another in the way that these images symbolised the birth of the stable England Elizabeth had promised. At the cost of which was to become apparent later on, but the domestic economy of England by that point was more stable under her reign than it had been during the previous tumultuous reigns and wars of the previous rulers of the kingdom of England. Each of the portraits retain their titles from the jewelry worn by the Queen.

The pelican in her piety is a symbol of the medieval period. It was said that the pelican would feed its young with blood from it's own body to nurture the young. This gave the image of a self sacrificing being fostering the talent and future of its young over itself. The pelican pendant has it s wing outstretched and its beak in its breast, given the image of a self-effacing and humble monarch as derived in the lore of the time, an image that Elizabeth was fond of. In this way, it was said that Elizabeth sacrificed some creature comforts as well as her own blood sweat and tears for England. 

Large pearls symbolising purity and Artemis, the god of the Moon, are also shown everywhere. Continuing the purity theme, 2 cherries adorned the Queens earlobes, an untouched Virgin reference. Fringing above her head implies the Queendom and the usual Tudor rose runs amock. In this particular portrait, a Flower of Lis gives the impression of her claim to the kingdom of France. Her gown also displays blackwork, a particular embroidery embellishment which showcased her local homegrown artefacts, replete in roses.

The Phoenix portrait is a mirror image copy of the Pelican, symbolising an animal which is rising from the ashes to be reborn anew. It should not be understated that this was most likely the idea of Elizabeth distinguishing her right to rule given mediocrity and other biases which allowed the double standard of men creating things and then cocking them up, whilst not allowing women the same ability, time nor place to do the same. This double portrait by Hilliard implied that here was a grandeur for the double here and is what the author of this blogpost takes to imply in the aftermath of state craft that Elizabeth had come to realize in private, but not to take up in public as it would have ruined her claim to the throne and ability to rule independently and alone as an older woman in particular. 

The Phoenix represented for Elizabeth the rebirth of her image and use in society and for the realm. Unlike the Pelican, it was not a humble self-sacrificing emblem, but rather a matter of state craft once again, in that rejection of all that came before her to try something new so as to be able to create the overall immersion of a new England and new type of role model. By this point as quasi-absolute monarch, she decided what direction her fashion, her governments, her realm in other words would go. Slaving, the Protestant and Catholic wars and all of the succession disputes she had to mop up after her father was done were things with which the Phoenix was required as a symbol for. The Pelican on the other hand was invoked as a matter of taking the overall burden of the world into which she had newly birthed. She was as she once said not married to a single man, as she was 'already bound unto a husband which is the Kingdom of England'.[5] Instead Elizabeth used her messed up situation as Virgin Queen to benevolently  for its populace move England towards a national state of independence. Her marriage, her womb, her bedchamber were a matter of state. As such, she would never marry foreign princes or even her own native lover. This would have drawn England into war and other men's realpolitik afterall, as Mary I had been done so to under her marriage with Philip II.[6]

Instead Elizabeth rejected this and made herself and England independent of others. We can see this in the way Elizabeth referred to her favourite in allegorical ways, 'Robyn' being Robert Dudley for example.[5] Albeit it that later on in his life, he became tarnished and for a being of state, this was not good enough. Mortal men were too mediocre for royalty, even in 1560. Instead Dudley was made an Earl and tucked into the footnotes of history as another British favourite. Her marriage prospects abroad as well are limited as a royal, and even though she wanted to marry a younger brother of the King of Anjou in 1581, this was called off after it was found out he was Catholic. In sacrificing her love life and giving her body over to the image of state craft and England, she arose from the ashes becoming invested by this time in her portraiture immensely, as one of the creative crafts and 'appropriate' ways she could let her own thoughts be felt.[5]

Gloriana

With the imposition of Gloriana in full swing, it became expected for those who curried favour to wear an image of the Queen's likeness. Usually in the form of a brooch (see the Drake or the Armada jewel).

1580s

By the time the Armada arrived, these had become the cult of Gloriana, with all of the long gallery's, poetry and popular plays of the day (Shakespeare) replete with reference and inference to the ongoings of Elizabethan court creativity.

Emmanuel College charter 1584

Given his position as royal limner Hilliard

By the 1590s, these portraits became stuck in time from the Darnley era and created an emerging age of eternal youth and beauty. An engagement in public relations to the greater political and global British empire that had begun proper under the Elizabethan and Tudor banner.

Purity to rule
Virginity and Purity were also present in a great amount of the symbolism of the works, take for example the naming of Virginia.
Allusions were often made to the moon and pearls for this very matter.
Moon symbolism was often in sway with Diana and Artemis, the Roman and Greek goddess of the Moon and the Hunt.

Portraits
The Family of Henry VIII 1545
The Lady Elizabeth Tudor 1546
Lady Elizabeth 1550
Hampton Portrait 1560
Elizabeth I and the Three Goddesses, 1569
The Family of Henry VIII: An Allegory of the Tudor Succession 1572
Miniature by Hilliard 1572
Phoenix Portrait 1576
Pelican Portrait 1576
Emmanuel College charter 1584


Sunday, March 3, 2024

くぼたと辻が花 | Kubota to Tsujigahana | Kubota and Tsujigahana | Patterns #23

This patternseries I would like to try something a little different, and discuss the process behind the revival of the pattern tsujigahana, by its revivalist, Itchiku Kubota (1917-2003) in 1937. Itchiku Kubota was the artisan or Komin who was behind the work of recreating the arguably lost art of creating Tsujigahana ( 辻が花 | Flowers at the Crossroad ), which became his lifes work.[1] Kubota was a great crasftman outside of this feat, but his work and what inspired I thought might be of interest to people into what motivates people to preserve, relish and continue creating these 'traditional' crafts.

Kubota was born in 1917. He was the son of an antique dealer that resided in the traditional part of his neighbourhood. This would have been during the Taisho era (1912-1926) when a burgeoning domestic and foreign set of markets had opened up to the Japanese industries and on the tail-end of adopting Western customs, manners and attires. which destroyed much of traditional Japanese Arts and Crafts.[1] It may not have escaped his inquisitive eyes that much of this was particularly disappearing around him as he grew into his teenage years into a family of artisanally inclined people. Many of his neighbours were dye workshops, and we can presumably assume that this was were he first began to mix his family social capital inheritance of old artforms with his neighbourhood ties.[1]

In 1931 Kubota began an apprenticeship to Kobayashi Kiyoshi, whose workshop was known for its handmade Yuzen dye work. There Kubota began learning how to paint, dye and the traditional and perhaps contemporary Japanese design aesthetics such as landscape painting, portraiture and other traditional Kimono painting techniques. By 1936 he was considered good enough to establish and build his own dye studio.[1]

Presumably by this time as an established Kimono Komin and Designer, and with his family background in antiques began to search out inspiration and influences from centuries gone by. This took him to the Tokyo National Musuem where he first witnessed the then considered lost technique of design, Tsujigahana which was extant from the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568-1600).[1] At that time of 1937, Kubota was 20. This moment of witnessing such a beautiful moment frozen in time and interaction with the world external to the Museum inspired him to relaim the design into the modern day and age to be enjoyed once again, rather than to be locked away in a case as a lost relic of another time.

The design element of Tsujigahana was created in the time of the Muromachi period (1336-1573). The design of that time were heavily dependent on a kind of conservative tendency towards an almost Iki reading of Ashida-E, Onna-E types of artistic lineages of Art which were heavily image and symbol heavy. These resist dyes thus were able to evoke a heavy sense of narrative and storyworlds in their decoration and in a time which was heavily restrictive in literacy towards women and the lower classes, these textiles were lavishly and painstakingly created most likely by the affiliated workshops and Machi-Eshi Komin capable of working on these unique Tanmono wealthy families could afford, this being the wealthiest Sengoku Daimyo and the urban Chonin. By 1690 with the almost complete decline of Za guilds and the rise of Miyazaki Yuzen's moyo Tsujigahana fell into decline.

This is to my knowledge the most likely explanation as to why Tsujigahana fell out of favour by the later part of the Edo period and completely 'forgotten' by the Meiji (1868-1912). That being that the production of such a textile would have been a trade or workshop secret and therefore died out with its lineage creators, as otherwise a legacy form would still exist in the realm somewhere, in one form or another. This is pretty guaranteed due to the amount of decorative elements, a time-consuming and expensive dyes, metals and embroidery used in the creation of these garments which makes it unlikely that farmers would have been making and wearing these textiles to go rice farming in.[1] Almost as likely as wearing ballgowns to pick maize.

Returning to our protaganist, Kubota was fascinated the mystery of where and how this original technique had been lost. He was under its spell from that point on, making it his life's work to figure out the mystery of that lost technique.[1] Another layer to the fun, was that the silk to create the work was Nerinuki, an archaic textile no longer woven at the time. It would be this step to technique revival which would take decades of work for Kubota, presumably somewhat interrupted by the second world war. Evil Japanese officials ruined the progression of his work by drafting him, where he spent 3 years as POW from 1945-1948. Given the dates, it is most likely he was rather weak and unfit for military service, but at the time Japanese army officials were not particularly picky, sending children and the elderly to fight what was for them another rich mans war. Indeed, it was during this time that Japan's new Constitution declared Japan to be unable to go to war unless in self-defence resulting in the modern article 9 which 'renounced war forever'. 

However not one to let a stupid war stop him, he returned to Tokyo and set up shop once more, mostly in Yuzen kimono. By 1955 aged 38, he had decided to fully devote his down (presumably, the  early 1950s was a difficult time in Japan, especially Tokyo) time to Tsujigahana revival. In a bid to get it done within his lifetime, Nerinuki was released back to the misty, shrouded hills of Folklore Studies once more and modern silk was deemed good enough. Instead, the technique was the focus, a mix of resist-dyeing and hand painted ink painting.[1] Using chirimen as a base, Kubota dyed each bolt independently and stitched. This formed the basis of Kubota's technique. Whilst this may seem revolutionary for some and a copout for others, this work is symbolic of what an appreciation for the worlds before our own is. An understanding that what we see is but a fleeting (in this case) material remnant, which we build upon in transforming the work to modern needs. This is a more honest understanding of KTC and whilst not a literal remaking, it is indeed a revival of the vision of what a Daimyo or Chonin may have felt upon recieving the same material. A reboot if you will that saw in 1977, Kubota first exhibit his take on Tsujigahana.[1]

This is evident in the series Kubota created for 1979, which presented panoramic views of sunsets and landscapes for example. This was displayed that year, and included 80 painstakingly handmade Kimono. True to his artisanal and nitpicky roots, this series was developed and continued until Kubotas passing onto the next life. It is this spell however which is almost a translation of the glamour of times gone by, a fae tale which has been spun into the gold leaf covered T-shaped works of Art which wealthy patrons swanned around in, a world which archivists, librarians, curators, re-constructionists and art historians have in their everyday. It is the job of the modern designer to translate this to bring these facets of history to a wider audience and it is this message and elements which make us consider Kubota as an archival liberator, that is one who works with firsthand artefacts in the archives left to us to create magic.

Bibliography

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itchiku_Kubota

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Saturday, April 1, 2023

刺し子 | Sashiko | Little Stab Stitch | Pattern #18

Sashiko ( 刺し子 | Little Stab ) is a simple continuous running stitch design atop a surface. The stitch is slightly longer atop than on the underneath.[1] Often many Sashiko designs are done in an interlocking, repetitive or overlapping manner, often using indigo cloth and white thread.[3] The nature of Boro and Sashiko traps heat, making it more likely to be found in the North of Japan where it is colder, also helping enable the cloth to last longer. Many of the motifs common to traditional Sashiko designs are from plants, animals or nature like clouds and steam.[3] Many Sashiko techniques and styles derive from local folklore and rural communities and were made for practical everyday wear.[4][5]

Fireman's Sashiko Jacket (c.1865, PD) LACMA

Sashiko began as a practical design element for the Heimin wives of farms/fisheries to show off their Embroidery skills in making kimono, like repairing Boro Kosode.[3] Due to the influence of the sumptuary laws, most Boro and Hemp Kimono were made creative by dying them in indigo, a readily available local dye for Heimin and some Chonin who travelled around for Sankin Kotai.[4][7] Japanese firemen until the 19th century used to have their uniform made from Sashiko stitch with padding, which was drenched in water to act a shield from fire during rescue attempts.[2] By the late 17th century however, these designs began to become part and parcel of a wider revolutionary aesthetic reform of Kosode surfaces which made the Chonin look more powerful than the Samurai, which was a no-no for the Fudai and Kuge Daimyo. In a bid to curb these powerful aesthetic markers of status, the Heimin were given designated fabrics and dyes which saw a rise in the popularity of Indigo Sashiko.[4]

Hokusai's New Patterns (1824, PD/CC4.0) British Musuem, Katsushika Hokusai

By the 18th century, fashionable Sashiko Kosode used local folklore to distinguish local meanings specific to their maker and communities, like the Hoshi-ami (干し網|Fish Net) design used by fishermen's wives when making Donzu/Noragi Coats, or for some Chonin the common characteristics of their daily lives from the city.[3][5] Particularly in the merchant town of Osaka, Sashiko would have a popular infusion of mother's frugal stitchwork, and being part of the new fashionable elite emerging there. By the 19th century, these designs were incredibly intricate and were no longer done in the Boro spirit, but to show off how skilled their creator artisan/embroiderer was.[5] For example the designs of  Hokusai-Moyo ( 北斎模様 | Hokusai-patterns/designs) which were particularly popular after Hokusai published his 'New Patterns' ( 新形小紋帳 | 1824).[8]

Decorative Harakata Sashiko (2019, CC4.0) 漱石の猫

Ms Endo teaches Harakata Sashiko (2018, FU; Education) Copyright Yamagata Newspaper Broadcasting 

 With the introduction of new chemical dyes and machine made textiles, Kimono were increasingly less labour intensive by the early 20th century seeing a decline in the popularity of Sashiko designs from 1950-1980.[6] As part of the 1990s Web Kimono boom however, teachers like Kiyoko Endo (dates unknown) began teaching laymen artisans and craftspeople how Sashiko is used as a folk art (Endo teaches Harakata Sashiko, a Yonezawa style) and has become popular today in the West amongst embroiderers.

Bibliography

[1] https://www.athreadedneedle.com/blogs/with-a-threaded-needle/sashiko-kogin-hitomezashi-boro-what-are-we-stitching 

[2] https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O18904/firemans-hood-unknown/

[3] https://indigoniche.com/2018/06/26/sashiko-origins-and-designs/#:~:text=Sashiko%20is%20a%20Japanese%20folk,in%20repeating%20or%20interlocking%20patterns.

[4] See Sumptuary Laws (1604-1685) in Bijin #3

[5] See The Genroku Osaka Bijin (1680 - 1700) in Bijin #3

[6] https://www.inspirationsstudios.com/the-history-of-sashiko/

[7] See Patterns #17

[8] https://mag.japaaan.com/archives/113368

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Sunday, January 8, 2023

絽 | Ro | Ro silk | Fabric #17

Ro ( 絽 ) silk fabric is a thin, see through fabric used to make Hitoe ( 一重 | unlined kimono ). It is most often worn in hot weather, which in Japan is between the June to September months. Woven using Karamiori ( | Mojiri weave ), this is what makes the fabric easy to ventilate and gives it its line like gap effects known as (horizontal) eyes. Ro is made by weaving warp threads with an odd number of weft threads to create these see through eyes. Ro can be used in any part of Wafuku production, even undergarments. There exist 3, 5, 13 eye gaps known as Ohonro, Ranro which follows a gap pattern of 3-5-7, and Tatero where the gaps are made by reversing the gap process to an odd number of warp threads, creating vertical eyes.[1]  

Machine Ro Weave with Embroidery (2019, CC4.0) Ineffablebookkeeper

Ro began to made in the Edo period (circa 1600) and existed to be worn as formal summer wear for the rich and monks. Sha fabrics (a more transparent Gauze like weave) was the basis for the Ro weave, with Ro created to allow finer types of dyes and patterns to be made onto the textiles surface often using stencils, painting and sometimes embroidery.[1][2] This allowed patterns like the Mon to be added to Kimono without the blurring effect of Sha fabrics. During the industrial age, mass produced Ro fabrics began to made using the Leno weave and may have made the majority of exported and everyday Ro fabrics during the 19th century and early 20th century.[1] It seems hitoe were also popular with quite a number of the liberally minded living in Edwardian Japan.[3] In the modern day, Tomesode, Houmongi, Tsukesage, Komon, Nagajuban, and detachable Eri are made using Ro, but this is dwindling with the death of new buyers.[1]

Bibliography

[1]  https://rosha.jp/faq/02_about_ro-sha/ro_sha_chigai/ 

[2] https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/kimono-fabrics

[3] My dodgy 1920s own research into art movements and writers circles.

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Sunday, December 11, 2022

ひとめ刺し | Hitomezashi | Single Stab Stitch | Pattern #16

Hitome-sashi/zashi (One Stab Stitch) is a type of Sashiko stitching.[1] Sashiko stitching being the famous white on blue technique of almost embroidery. The stitch makes up a geometric pattern from these white running stitches, sometimes wide sometimes miniscule to decorate or repair fabrics in a grid pattern.[2] As a task, Sashiko is said to be both therapeutic and time-consuming requiring a great deal of patience and concentration. Hitomezashi derives mostly from the practical applications of Sashiko and therefore was historically used for work uniforms, today it is mostly for repairing old clothstuffs. Many older examples come from Noragi (  野良着 | Workcoats) and Sashiko no Donzu (Fishermens coats) that have survived.[4]

Hitomezashi was originally used by Heimin as a way to mend old farming and fishermens textiles like Hemp or Ramie from the North of Japan, from around the Yamagata to Hokkaido areas.[1][4] Items started out life as Kosode, then became bags, aprons and cleaning rags.[4] Between 1600 - 1850, a majority of the working classes produced their own textiles due to the expense of buying new fabrics. It is thought that decorative stitches such as Hitomezashi originated as an ergonomic way to mend, fill in and layer fabrics for winter, becoming decorative through processes such as Tsukuroi-Sashi ( 繕いー刺しDarning Sashiko) by using undyed thread and repeatedly Darning older textiles into new ones every year. These skills were taught in school and at home to the children of farmers and fishermen.[4] Hitomezashi also spread around Japan byway of major trade routes like the Tokaido.[2][3]

Hitomezashi (c1850[2017], PD) Mr Bolton

During the Meiji period with the increase of Japan Inc, Japanese culture spread globally. Thus when agricultural workers moved to Hawaii, they took Hitomezashi with them, using it to repair their work clothes there, spreading the textile.[5] It may have also spread to Continental North America and other countries in the British Empire as it was popular during the 70's and 80's to adopt Japanese adjacent techniques among the middle class as an domestic Aestheticism (1868-1899) embroidery technique. In Japan with the promulgation of the industrialization efforts of Meiji Japan, Japan Inc. began to introduce new fabrics by 1870, making cotton available for those in Northern Japan.[3] In 1884, 'Sanitary Dress' was sent by the Japanese Government to display Health in the Workplace at the Health Exhibition. In the Exhibition  (likely Hitomezashi), Sashiko was displayed to showcase how Mens uniforms (Hakama) were made in Japan.[6] 

By the beginning of the 20th century however, Hitomezashi began to fall out of usage in favour of modern textiles flashy textiles. Meisen became more popular and workwear often became Tsumugi and  other wools as Japan Inc expanded in the 1910s and 20s.[7] Whilst Hitomezashi fell out of widespread use by the 1950s due to the import of quilting, older generations still held onto and used the technique. Northern Japanese communities still practice and teach Sashiko classes, a practice around since at least the 1990s. In the modern day, Kogin (another type of Sashiko) developed from Hitomezashi stitch.[4]

Bibliography

[1] Sashiko 365: Stitch a new sashiko embroidery pattern every day of the year, Susan Briscoe, 2022, p.5 | https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=fyqdEAAAQBAJ&pg=PT6&dq=sashiko+farmers&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjp59Wyhe37AhWPSMAKHdO4BtQQuwV6BAgKEAc#v=onepage&q=sashiko%20farmers&f=false

[2] https://www.athreadedneedle.com/blogs/with-a-threaded-needle/sashiko-kogin-hitomezashi-boro-what-are-we-stitching 

[3] Sashiko Pattern Book for Beginners: A Japanese Embroidery Art of Stitching, Angela Kemp, 2010, pp.10-11

[4] The Ultimate Sashiko Sourcebook: Patterns, Projects and Inspirations, Susan Briscoe, 2016, pp.8-15

[5] Japanese Immigrant Clothing in Hawaii 1885-1941, Barbara F. Kawakami, 1995

[6] Health Exhibition Literature, Executive Council of the International Health Exhibition, Council for the Society of the Arts, 1884, p.605 | https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=2fYTAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA605&dq=sashiko&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiTptDkm-37AhUxTEEAHbStBKcQuwV6BAgEEAY#v=onepage&q=sashiko&f=false

[7] See Fabrics #5

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Sunday, July 24, 2022

練貫 | Nerinuki | Glossed Silk Plain Weft Weave | Fabrics #15

Nerinuki is a Nishijin-ori derivative shiny silk fabric used to make the Tsujigahana techique.[1] Most designs done in Nerinuki use dark colourways. To create the fabric, the Tate threads being raw silk and the Yoko threads being degummed silk threads, made by removing excess sericin from the fibres.[3][4] Nerinuki is more commonly seen today as an archaic textile with most extant work coming from the late Edo period, but was always used in some capacity between the Momoyama and Edo periods.

Nerinuki base Kimono (c.1800) LACMA

Nerinuki as a term originates from around 1566, when the designs were often finished in pinks, purples and lighter colourways. Nerinuki was most popular during the early 17th century, before it gave way to Rinzu which was a less rigid textile to work with allowing for the more trendy flowy Ji-monnyou.[2] Examples include Nurihaku (Noh costumes) given by Tokugawa Ieyasu for performances of Kyogen.[3] Nerinuki continued into the Edo period but using darker colourways such as purple, crimson, brown and black. By the early 19th century, Nerinuki was more commonly used as a base colour to embroider upon to bring out the elaborate and rich decorative motifs on Kimono. I cannot find existing modern examples, but would most likely still be a deep colour and use embroidery as these are Nerinukis principly known factors.

Bibliography

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nishijin-ori

[2] https://redsunrising-blog.tumblr.com/post/4627468115/the-garments-of-the-ruling-class-during-the-edo

[3] http://emuseum.nich.go.jp/detail?langId=en&webView=&content_base_id=100559&content_part_id=0&content_pict_id=0

[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sericin

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Monday, May 23, 2022

巴蜀錦 | Bashu Jin | (Ba)Shu (-Jiang) Brocade | Fabrics #14

Apologies this is up on a Monday, I had to do overtime at my day-job this Sunday.

Bashu brocade is a type of brocade which originates from the Sichuan area of modern China. It is known as the 'mother of Chinese brocade' and is known for being an important non material part of Chinese Sericulture, which played a key role in the development of Kinu in Japan.[1][3] It is known in China as a 'national intangible cultural property'.[2] In its heyday, it was a prized Nara textile worn by the upper courts in Japan and has a fuzzy edge to it.[6] Bashu brocade requires complex antiquated hand machinery operated by two weavers known in English as a 'Tower Loom'.[3][4] Due to this complex process, only 6-8cm of Bashu brocade are made in a day.[4]

'[Ba]Shu' Brocade (2010, CC1.0) Gary Todd

Bashu brocade is made by weaving using a Chengdu machine which is made from hundreds of Bamboo rods, whose material successor was the Ming Loom.[1] The background of the Brocade is first interlaced with the pattern woven into the brocade using a series of looms along a wheel or Axle by the upper weaver who pulls on the warp threads making the background, often red, brown or black.[1][3][6] The weft are pulled taut by the lower weaver, and the correct warp strings divided up and a hook is run over them. Silk threads are laid by the planned design, and corresponding silk threads are placed on the hook and pulled through the brocade to be pulled down into place by the lower weaver to make the brocade.[2] The lower weaver must know over 120 stitches to do this Embroidering.[4] The ends of the warp threads are knotted off and the weft threads pulled taut.[2] The Axel also helps to keep the threads taut as the upper weaver pulls them through the loom. When the pattern is complete, it is removed and washed in running water.[3]

Tower Loom Upper Weaver (1991, CC1.0) Gary Todd

Bashu began in China around 3000 years ago. Bashu culture is considered one of 3 of the birthplaces of Chinese culture, particularly Sericulture.[1] Beginning by 221 BCE, the industry of Sericulture for the Shu kingdom was an important facet of Chinese culture.[1] By 220 CE the formation of regulation began to take hold of Bashu sericulture.[3] This formed the beginning of the famed Southern Silk 'Road' routes to countries like Mongolia, India, Persia and Japan (via Ryukyuu) which spanned the Eurasian continent and surrounding archipelagoes.[1][8]

Silk was first produced in Neolithic China (10,000-2000BC), and introduced to Japan by 300 AD [of Hemp and animal fibers].[3][4]

Bashu brocade was then introduced into Japan by 618 CE when it reached a new golden age, becoming worn by people like Emperor Taizong (598CE-649CE).[4] It was a pivotal Chinese export during the Tang dynasty until its collapse in 907 CE and this is reflected in the Japanese imperial courts styles, which may have been worn by the likes of Empress Suiko (554CE-628CE) who wore them, probably more so as a gesture of goodwill after she sent the letter declaring 'Wa' to be their own sovereign country from the great 'Celestial Empire'. If you are to look in the Shosoin Repository for example, you can see the influence of the Chinese bureaucrat Zhang Yanyuan (815-877CE) who introduced the paired animal motif into brocade.[7] Extant examples being Crane and Sika Deer for example.[1] It is said therefore that this has inspired some Nishijin weaves motifs in Japan as 'traditional' motifs.[8]

Between 1000-1800, Bashu brocade remained a traditionally prized craft and was thus unaltered and fluctured in popularity as an export as it was overtaken by other more popular Indian and Persian samite silks overseas. By the late 1800s, Bashu brocade was a highly specialised craft worn only by the rich, and was at risk of becoming a lost art. During this time, it became synonymous with Chinese painting styles and attracted many painters to make designs in Chengdu.[8] By the 20th century, efforts began to be made to save the craft and were exhibited internationally.[6] Over in Japan, the intricate designs whilst not as popular after the introduction of Zen Aesthetics in 1200CE-1650CE, are still used today in Kitsuke and apparel designs like Zori ( Wedged Sandals | 草履 ).[5]

Overall, Bashu or Shu Brocade was the predominant Chinese silk export until 900 CE until Ms.Suiko sent that letter, but was certainly regarded as a form of High and refined culture in Chinese and neighbouring countries from the Golden Age of Chinese culture, the Tang Dynasty (I recommend the Empress of China 2014 Fan Bingbing Drama if you want more context). Whilst having a complicated relation from 607 on, Bashj brocade was worn by court nobles in Japan from this time until the Nara period when Japan begaan making its own Kinu.[4] After this the motifs and styles remained influential on modern Kimono design as part of the 'Shu brocade' motifs of complex ornamental and animal motifs on red and brown backgrounds.[9]

Bibliography

[1] https://artsandculture.google.com/story/shu-brocade-the-earliest-brocade-in-china/hwKC7Tji8PKvJw

[2] Craftsmen of Shujin Brocade | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMy0Ve8pKMg

[3] https://www.chinadiscovery.com/sichuan/chengdu/shu-brocade-embroidery-museum.html

[4] See Fabrics #3

[4] https://www.2021chengdu.com/activity/news/newsDetail?id=11440&lang=en&cid=jd_ms

[5] https://shop.japanobjects.com/products/shu-zori-slippers

[6] https://www.chinatravel.com/culture/chinese-brocade

[7] The Significance of the Central Asian Objects in the Shōsōin for Understanding the International Art Trade in the Seventh and Eighth CenturiesWilliam E. Mierse, March 2017, p.267, Sino Platonic Papers | http://sino-platonic.org/complete/spp267_shosoin.pdf

[8] http://www.csstoday.com/Item/3557.aspx

[9] https://inf.news/en/culture/2e8d83ca5020b771bee089116aee7cd7.html

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Sunday, April 10, 2022

Making a Haori and a rant about the beauty of Transitioning

Good Sunday good folk! 

I am currently taking a break as quite a lot has happened recently which I am still waiting to pass for the time being. So I decided to finish a project that has sat in my project box for a while and make a haori from deadstock fabric. Have you seen how nice this deadstock fabric is though!?

 
Taken by myself (2022) Kaguyas Chest

The sleeves are 75 finished, I'm still trying to get the configuration right with the rest of my torso, which is proving a bit of a pain given that all I have leftover is around 30cm of the right fabric. For anyone interested this took 2 old dresses to make  and looks almost more of a Dochugi length than a Haori, but the fabric is really adorable so it's fine.

Im planning to embroider the back, but Im still looking for the right motifs. They'll be drawn from the history of British and Japanese inter-cultural history. I think theyll include:

  • Chalkboard with Poole Gakuin written in English
  • Frank Morley Fletcher Painting
  • Hiking stick
  • Yokohama Bluff
  • A Donation Pot
  • Anglo-Japanese Treaty of Commerce and Navigation (1894)
  • Kimono Cabinet (1901)
  • Sadayakkos Hamlet flower crown (1903)
  • Noh mask
  • Invitation to Lady Arnolds Afternoon Tea
  • A cat
  • Japan in Pictures (1904)
  • Kwaidan Cover Art (1904)
  • Cover of the  Daehan Maeil Sinbo (1904)
  • A Wedding Ring
  • Citron fruit
  • Ama and Jewel Tsuba from Japanese Treasure Tales (1906)
  • A collection of books in a series
  • A brown Mingei pot
  • A crane
  • A letter addressed to Ozaki
  • An illustrators pen
  • Sculptors carving tools
  • A newspaper
  • Budokwai Logo
  • Jujitsu uniform
  • An Umbrella
  • A paper parasol
  • A watercolour by Kokki Miyake
  • Prints by Kamisaka Sekka
  • Beginning of Lady Reading (1906) by Ishibashi Kazunori
  • A love letter to Hart-Synnot (1906)
  • Yoshio Markino print (1907)
  • Renee Viviens hat
  • 2cnd place ribbon for the Surrey Brooklands motor race (1907)
  • Drooping Wisteria
  • Sansoms rounded glasses
  • Aesthetic Hand fan
  • Ticker tape machine
  • Japan British Exhibition Postcard (1910)
  • Edith Margaret Garruds Hat from the Sketch (1910)
  • Red Bridges
  • Most Honourable Order of the Bath medallion
  • Stone lantern
  • Kakemono
  • Bamboo garden feature
  • Haikara-san
  • Taihaku blossom
  • Fossils
  • Tomimoto Kenkichi pottery
  • Bernard Leach pottery
  • Clotted cream knife
  • Ryuson Chuzo Matsuyama print
  • Pottery shard from the Jomon period with label 'to Scotland'
  • Butterflies from China, Japan Corea (1912)
  • Wilson Kabu and Kamidana
  • Titanic Letterhead (1914)
  • A spoiled Buddha (1919)
  • Blue Hakama
  • Kawai Kanjiro pottery
  • Thomas Baty's wig
  • Charles William Bartlett print
  • Male ballet uniform
  • Moga
  • 73 Harcourt Terraces Conservatory
  • Sempills Plane
  • A bottle of Nikka Whisky 
  • Sen Yans Devotion (1924)
  • Scotch JMT-3100
  • An Omelette on a book
  • Design plans for the Yamato (1937)
  • Upturned hat and a sign reading 'Prime Minister’s son – penniless'
Cerasus Lannesiana 'Taihaku' Ingram (2011, CC3.0) Arashiyama

Transitory Beauty Rant 

These will follow the Heian practice (if I recall correctly) of omitting human figures due to the aesthetic sensibilities of Japanese Buddhism. The train of though runs that to live as a Buddha, we must end our relation with Dukkha. And to end dukkha, the spiritual practitioner must relinquish their desires related to Dukkha. Their fleshy meat vessels known as bodies had to be cleansed so to speak of the mortal desire for vanity and covetousness, as these were material pursuits which was taught in Buddism to bring longterm pain, or Dukkha as these things did not allow the practicer to find the non-self. Thus the reduction of coveting and vanity or consumerism would help to end Dukkha and to attain nirvana. This of course comes from Mujyou, the knowledge that all things will disintegrate eventually. It was the acceptance of this fact and how to respond aesthetically which 'cultivated' aesthetics spent and spend their time pondering over.

This need to sever Dukkha and cultivate beauty developed into part of Mono-no-aware, which led to the popularization of the omittance of the human body, as the human body was full of dukkha, and nobody wants to wear Dukkha, so Dukkha related things were a no-no. This notion of worldly and unworldly beauty, in the pursuit of the realisation of ones part in nature as a non-self, is why Kimono often have very few humans on them. Lady Ise and pals had an appreciation that the fleshy meat vessel is finite, and that cultivated beauty is to be found in the passage of time, and thus you end up with motifs of objects from stories; ie Genji-Mon[1]; rather than reminders of Dukkha. Wholesome tales of non-self and relinquishing Dukka in other words. You may also want to see the post on how it became acceptable for the development of the Bijin figure. 

These two academic theories (on mortality and the pursuit of beauty) came about from the Japanese reaction to the role the human form played in Buddhist art and through Buddhist frameworks. It works under Mono-no-aware in the understanding of the relation of the body to its place as and in nature. In the Heian era, it was said the body must strive to have control over worldly desires for nirvana attainment, and by the Edo period that the body was part of life anyway and thus its pursuit as a beautiful aesthetic was simply another work towards understanding acceptance of the human condition. 

TLDR: Essentially, it is the transformative understanding of how the body fits into the natural world and how non-self is attained. It is the use of objects to draw attention to the emotion of these tales which the Heian mono-no-aware evokes which I rather more appreciate than the later Edo justification of Ukiyo-E, which whilst I get is part of the human condition is a bit of a copout for me considering it didnt even come close to Rationalist thinking as in the Occident that the Body was simply divine or almighty anyway and lowering beauty to simply base desires of lust and gluttony. Which yes there are many kinds of romantic and erotic love, but it never really leads to an exploration of platonic vs erotic vs aromanticism or any other form which love takes, and so for me is a rather boring academic framework. Even the Greeks and Romans the stuffy old men had greater vocabularies than just 'I like to watch patriarchy unfold on LGBTQIA narratives', looking at Ihara Saikaku here as well. Rant completamented.

Bibliography

[1] See patterns #3

[2] Are some of these references exceptionally vague and only a nod to if you know you know. Yep. 445 years. 169 years. Just a small difference of 276 years Mr Long. 100 years for Mr Loti.

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Work

 Work has decided that for some reason, both this and next weekend have workdays on the weekend so Ive taken the opportunity to get my life-...