Elizabeth I created a standard for portraiture in the Early Modern English age of the artform of portraiture. Remember that the time when the paintings were created was often after death or around specific large events as the creation of anything bigger than a palimpsest book or illustrated biblical pocketbook was a marvel given the distance that the ingredients and materials required to create these works travelled and in the circumstances under which they were created. Portrait miniatures were often instead the primary visual medium at the time, not the grand canvas and tapestry scales many royal portraits took in this time. These were created specifically to conjure an idea of grandeur, majesty and awe. Portrait minatures were successfully launched to England by Levina Teerlinc (c.1510-1576) from illuminated manuscript production under the workshop of her continental Dutch father and prior artists who had dabbled after 1450 in some miniatures. She and Esther Inglis, as well as Thomas Hilliard are widely known as some of the more popular portrait miniaturists of the Elizabethan and Tudor court periods.
Sunday, February 9, 2025
Elizabeth I Portraiture | Musings
Sunday, March 3, 2024
くぼたと辻が花 | Kubota to Tsujigahana | Kubota and Tsujigahana | Patterns #23
This patternseries I would like to try something a little different, and discuss the process behind the revival of the pattern tsujigahana, by its revivalist, Itchiku Kubota (1917-2003) in 1937. Itchiku Kubota was the artisan or Komin who was behind the work of recreating the arguably lost art of creating Tsujigahana ( 辻が花 | Flowers at the Crossroad ), which became his lifes work.[1] Kubota was a great crasftman outside of this feat, but his work and what inspired I thought might be of interest to people into what motivates people to preserve, relish and continue creating these 'traditional' crafts.
Kubota was born in 1917. He was the son of an antique dealer that resided in the traditional part of his neighbourhood. This would have been during the Taisho era (1912-1926) when a burgeoning domestic and foreign set of markets had opened up to the Japanese industries and on the tail-end of adopting Western customs, manners and attires. which destroyed much of traditional Japanese Arts and Crafts.[1] It may not have escaped his inquisitive eyes that much of this was particularly disappearing around him as he grew into his teenage years into a family of artisanally inclined people. Many of his neighbours were dye workshops, and we can presumably assume that this was were he first began to mix his family social capital inheritance of old artforms with his neighbourhood ties.[1]
In 1931 Kubota began an apprenticeship to Kobayashi Kiyoshi, whose workshop was known for its handmade Yuzen dye work. There Kubota began learning how to paint, dye and the traditional and perhaps contemporary Japanese design aesthetics such as landscape painting, portraiture and other traditional Kimono painting techniques. By 1936 he was considered good enough to establish and build his own dye studio.[1]
Presumably by this time as an established Kimono Komin and Designer, and with his family background in antiques began to search out inspiration and influences from centuries gone by. This took him to the Tokyo National Musuem where he first witnessed the then considered lost technique of design, Tsujigahana which was extant from the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568-1600).[1] At that time of 1937, Kubota was 20. This moment of witnessing such a beautiful moment frozen in time and interaction with the world external to the Museum inspired him to relaim the design into the modern day and age to be enjoyed once again, rather than to be locked away in a case as a lost relic of another time.
The design element of Tsujigahana was created in the time of the Muromachi period (1336-1573). The design of that time were heavily dependent on a kind of conservative tendency towards an almost Iki reading of Ashida-E, Onna-E types of artistic lineages of Art which were heavily image and symbol heavy. These resist dyes thus were able to evoke a heavy sense of narrative and storyworlds in their decoration and in a time which was heavily restrictive in literacy towards women and the lower classes, these textiles were lavishly and painstakingly created most likely by the affiliated workshops and Machi-Eshi Komin capable of working on these unique Tanmono wealthy families could afford, this being the wealthiest Sengoku Daimyo and the urban Chonin. By 1690 with the almost complete decline of Za guilds and the rise of Miyazaki Yuzen's moyo Tsujigahana fell into decline.
This is to my knowledge the most likely explanation as to why Tsujigahana fell out of favour by the later part of the Edo period and completely 'forgotten' by the Meiji (1868-1912). That being that the production of such a textile would have been a trade or workshop secret and therefore died out with its lineage creators, as otherwise a legacy form would still exist in the realm somewhere, in one form or another. This is pretty guaranteed due to the amount of decorative elements, a time-consuming and expensive dyes, metals and embroidery used in the creation of these garments which makes it unlikely that farmers would have been making and wearing these textiles to go rice farming in.[1] Almost as likely as wearing ballgowns to pick maize.
Returning to our protaganist, Kubota was fascinated the mystery of where and how this original technique had been lost. He was under its spell from that point on, making it his life's work to figure out the mystery of that lost technique.[1] Another layer to the fun, was that the silk to create the work was Nerinuki, an archaic textile no longer woven at the time. It would be this step to technique revival which would take decades of work for Kubota, presumably somewhat interrupted by the second world war. Evil Japanese officials ruined the progression of his work by drafting him, where he spent 3 years as POW from 1945-1948. Given the dates, it is most likely he was rather weak and unfit for military service, but at the time Japanese army officials were not particularly picky, sending children and the elderly to fight what was for them another rich mans war. Indeed, it was during this time that Japan's new Constitution declared Japan to be unable to go to war unless in self-defence resulting in the modern article 9 which 'renounced war forever'.
However not one to let a stupid war stop him, he returned to Tokyo and set up shop once more, mostly in Yuzen kimono. By 1955 aged 38, he had decided to fully devote his down (presumably, the early 1950s was a difficult time in Japan, especially Tokyo) time to Tsujigahana revival. In a bid to get it done within his lifetime, Nerinuki was released back to the misty, shrouded hills of Folklore Studies once more and modern silk was deemed good enough. Instead, the technique was the focus, a mix of resist-dyeing and hand painted ink painting.[1] Using chirimen as a base, Kubota dyed each bolt independently and stitched. This formed the basis of Kubota's technique. Whilst this may seem revolutionary for some and a copout for others, this work is symbolic of what an appreciation for the worlds before our own is. An understanding that what we see is but a fleeting (in this case) material remnant, which we build upon in transforming the work to modern needs. This is a more honest understanding of KTC and whilst not a literal remaking, it is indeed a revival of the vision of what a Daimyo or Chonin may have felt upon recieving the same material. A reboot if you will that saw in 1977, Kubota first exhibit his take on Tsujigahana.[1]
This is evident in the series Kubota created for 1979, which presented panoramic views of sunsets and landscapes for example. This was displayed that year, and included 80 painstakingly handmade Kimono. True to his artisanal and nitpicky roots, this series was developed and continued until Kubotas passing onto the next life. It is this spell however which is almost a translation of the glamour of times gone by, a fae tale which has been spun into the gold leaf covered T-shaped works of Art which wealthy patrons swanned around in, a world which archivists, librarians, curators, re-constructionists and art historians have in their everyday. It is the job of the modern designer to translate this to bring these facets of history to a wider audience and it is this message and elements which make us consider Kubota as an archival liberator, that is one who works with firsthand artefacts in the archives left to us to create magic.
Bibliography
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Itchiku_Kubota
Socials:
One stop Link shop: https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav
https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/
Saturday, April 1, 2023
刺し子 | Sashiko | Little Stab Stitch | Pattern #18
Sashiko ( 刺し子 | Little Stab ) is a simple continuous running stitch design atop a surface. The stitch is slightly longer atop than on the underneath.[1] Often many Sashiko designs are done in an interlocking, repetitive or overlapping manner, often using indigo cloth and white thread.[3] The nature of Boro and Sashiko traps heat, making it more likely to be found in the North of Japan where it is colder, also helping enable the cloth to last longer. Many of the motifs common to traditional Sashiko designs are from plants, animals or nature like clouds and steam.[3] Many Sashiko techniques and styles derive from local folklore and rural communities and were made for practical everyday wear.[4][5]
Sashiko began as a practical design element for the Heimin wives of farms/fisheries to show off their Embroidery skills in making kimono, like repairing Boro Kosode.[3] Due to the influence of the sumptuary laws, most Boro and Hemp Kimono were made creative by dying them in indigo, a readily available local dye for Heimin and some Chonin who travelled around for Sankin Kotai.[4][7] Japanese firemen until the 19th century used to have their uniform made from Sashiko stitch with padding, which was drenched in water to act a shield from fire during rescue attempts.[2] By the late 17th century however, these designs began to become part and parcel of a wider revolutionary aesthetic reform of Kosode surfaces which made the Chonin look more powerful than the Samurai, which was a no-no for the Fudai and Kuge Daimyo. In a bid to curb these powerful aesthetic markers of status, the Heimin were given designated fabrics and dyes which saw a rise in the popularity of Indigo Sashiko.[4]
By the 18th century, fashionable Sashiko Kosode used local folklore to distinguish local meanings specific to their maker and communities, like the Hoshi-ami (干し網|Fish Net) design used by fishermen's wives when making Donzu/Noragi Coats, or for some Chonin the common characteristics of their daily lives from the city.[3][5] Particularly in the merchant town of Osaka, Sashiko would have a popular infusion of mother's frugal stitchwork, and being part of the new fashionable elite emerging there. By the 19th century, these designs were incredibly intricate and were no longer done in the Boro spirit, but to show off how skilled their creator artisan/embroiderer was.[5] For example the designs of Hokusai-Moyo ( 北斎模様 | Hokusai-patterns/designs) which were particularly popular after Hokusai published his 'New Patterns' ( 新形小紋帳 | 1824).[8]
With the introduction of new chemical dyes and machine made textiles, Kimono were increasingly less labour intensive by the early 20th century seeing a decline in the popularity of Sashiko designs from 1950-1980.[6] As part of the 1990s Web Kimono boom however, teachers like Kiyoko Endo (dates unknown) began teaching laymen artisans and craftspeople how Sashiko is used as a folk art (Endo teaches Harakata Sashiko, a Yonezawa style) and has become popular today in the West amongst embroiderers.
Bibliography
[1] https://www.athreadedneedle.com/blogs/with-a-threaded-needle/sashiko-kogin-hitomezashi-boro-what-are-we-stitching
[2] https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O18904/firemans-hood-unknown/
[3] https://indigoniche.com/2018/06/26/sashiko-origins-and-designs/#:~:text=Sashiko%20is%20a%20Japanese%20folk,in%20repeating%20or%20interlocking%20patterns.
[4] See Sumptuary Laws (1604-1685) in Bijin #3
[5] See The Genroku Osaka Bijin (1680 - 1700) in Bijin #3
[6] https://www.inspirationsstudios.com/the-history-of-sashiko/
[7] See Patterns #17
[8] https://mag.japaaan.com/archives/113368
Social Links:
Linktree (One click to all and extended Links): https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav or https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ or https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw
Sunday, January 8, 2023
絽 | Ro | Ro silk | Fabric #17
Ro ( 絽 ) silk fabric is a thin, see through fabric used to make Hitoe ( 一重 | unlined kimono ). It is most often worn in hot weather, which in Japan is between the June to September months. Woven using Karamiori ( | Mojiri weave ), this is what makes the fabric easy to ventilate and gives it its line like gap effects known as (horizontal) eyes. Ro is made by weaving warp threads with an odd number of weft threads to create these see through eyes. Ro can be used in any part of Wafuku production, even undergarments. There exist 3, 5, 13 eye gaps known as Ohonro, Ranro which follows a gap pattern of 3-5-7, and Tatero where the gaps are made by reversing the gap process to an odd number of warp threads, creating vertical eyes.[1]
Ro began to made in the Edo period (circa 1600) and existed to be worn as formal summer wear for the rich and monks. Sha fabrics (a more transparent Gauze like weave) was the basis for the Ro weave, with Ro created to allow finer types of dyes and patterns to be made onto the textiles surface often using stencils, painting and sometimes embroidery.[1][2] This allowed patterns like the Mon to be added to Kimono without the blurring effect of Sha fabrics. During the industrial age, mass produced Ro fabrics began to made using the Leno weave and may have made the majority of exported and everyday Ro fabrics during the 19th century and early 20th century.[1] It seems hitoe were also popular with quite a number of the liberally minded living in Edwardian Japan.[3] In the modern day, Tomesode, Houmongi, Tsukesage, Komon, Nagajuban, and detachable Eri are made using Ro, but this is dwindling with the death of new buyers.[1]
Bibliography
[1] https://rosha.jp/faq/02_about_ro-sha/ro_sha_chigai/
[2] https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/kimono-fabrics
[3] My dodgy 1920s own research into art movements and writers circles.
Socials:
https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav or https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ or https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw, or https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/
Sunday, December 11, 2022
ひとめ刺し | Hitomezashi | Single Stab Stitch | Pattern #16
Hitome-sashi/zashi (One Stab Stitch) is a type of Sashiko stitching.[1] Sashiko stitching being the famous white on blue technique of almost embroidery. The stitch makes up a geometric pattern from these white running stitches, sometimes wide sometimes miniscule to decorate or repair fabrics in a grid pattern.[2] As a task, Sashiko is said to be both therapeutic and time-consuming requiring a great deal of patience and concentration. Hitomezashi derives mostly from the practical applications of Sashiko and therefore was historically used for work uniforms, today it is mostly for repairing old clothstuffs. Many older examples come from Noragi ( 野良着 | Workcoats) and Sashiko no Donzu (Fishermens coats) that have survived.[4]
Hitomezashi was originally used by Heimin as a way to mend old farming and fishermens textiles like Hemp or Ramie from the North of Japan, from around the Yamagata to Hokkaido areas.[1][4] Items started out life as Kosode, then became bags, aprons and cleaning rags.[4] Between 1600 - 1850, a majority of the working classes produced their own textiles due to the expense of buying new fabrics. It is thought that decorative stitches such as Hitomezashi originated as an ergonomic way to mend, fill in and layer fabrics for winter, becoming decorative through processes such as Tsukuroi-Sashi ( 繕いー刺し|Darning Sashiko) by using undyed thread and repeatedly Darning older textiles into new ones every year. These skills were taught in school and at home to the children of farmers and fishermen.[4] Hitomezashi also spread around Japan byway of major trade routes like the Tokaido.[2][3]
During the Meiji period with the increase of Japan Inc, Japanese culture spread globally. Thus when agricultural workers moved to Hawaii, they took Hitomezashi with them, using it to repair their work clothes there, spreading the textile.[5] It may have also spread to Continental North America and other countries in the British Empire as it was popular during the 70's and 80's to adopt Japanese adjacent techniques among the middle class as an domestic Aestheticism (1868-1899) embroidery technique. In Japan with the promulgation of the industrialization efforts of Meiji Japan, Japan Inc. began to introduce new fabrics by 1870, making cotton available for those in Northern Japan.[3] In 1884, 'Sanitary Dress' was sent by the Japanese Government to display Health in the Workplace at the Health Exhibition. In the Exhibition (likely Hitomezashi), Sashiko was displayed to showcase how Mens uniforms (Hakama) were made in Japan.[6]
By the beginning of the 20th century however, Hitomezashi began to fall out of usage in favour of modern textiles flashy textiles. Meisen became more popular and workwear often became Tsumugi and other wools as Japan Inc expanded in the 1910s and 20s.[7] Whilst Hitomezashi fell out of widespread use by the 1950s due to the import of quilting, older generations still held onto and used the technique. Northern Japanese communities still practice and teach Sashiko classes, a practice around since at least the 1990s. In the modern day, Kogin (another type of Sashiko) developed from Hitomezashi stitch.[4]
Bibliography
[1] Sashiko 365: Stitch a new sashiko embroidery pattern every day of the year, Susan Briscoe, 2022, p.5 | https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=fyqdEAAAQBAJ&pg=PT6&dq=sashiko+farmers&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjp59Wyhe37AhWPSMAKHdO4BtQQuwV6BAgKEAc#v=onepage&q=sashiko%20farmers&f=false
[2] https://www.athreadedneedle.com/blogs/with-a-threaded-needle/sashiko-kogin-hitomezashi-boro-what-are-we-stitching
[3] Sashiko Pattern Book for Beginners: A Japanese Embroidery Art of Stitching, Angela Kemp, 2010, pp.10-11
[4] The Ultimate Sashiko Sourcebook: Patterns, Projects and Inspirations, Susan Briscoe, 2016, pp.8-15
[5] Japanese Immigrant Clothing in Hawaii 1885-1941, Barbara F. Kawakami, 1995
[6] Health Exhibition Literature, Executive Council of the International Health Exhibition, Council for the Society of the Arts, 1884, p.605 | https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=2fYTAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA605&dq=sashiko&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiTptDkm-37AhUxTEEAHbStBKcQuwV6BAgEEAY#v=onepage&q=sashiko&f=false
[7] See Fabrics #5
Socials:
https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav or https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ or https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw, or https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/
Sunday, July 24, 2022
練貫 | Nerinuki | Glossed Silk Plain Weft Weave | Fabrics #15
Nerinuki is a Nishijin-ori derivative shiny silk fabric used to make the Tsujigahana techique.[1] Most designs done in Nerinuki use dark colourways. To create the fabric, the Tate threads being raw silk and the Yoko threads being degummed silk threads, made by removing excess sericin from the fibres.[3][4] Nerinuki is more commonly seen today as an archaic textile with most extant work coming from the late Edo period, but was always used in some capacity between the Momoyama and Edo periods.
Nerinuki as a term originates from around 1566, when the designs were often finished in pinks, purples and lighter colourways. Nerinuki was most popular during the early 17th century, before it gave way to Rinzu which was a less rigid textile to work with allowing for the more trendy flowy Ji-monnyou.[2] Examples include Nurihaku (Noh costumes) given by Tokugawa Ieyasu for performances of Kyogen.[3] Nerinuki continued into the Edo period but using darker colourways such as purple, crimson, brown and black. By the early 19th century, Nerinuki was more commonly used as a base colour to embroider upon to bring out the elaborate and rich decorative motifs on Kimono. I cannot find existing modern examples, but would most likely still be a deep colour and use embroidery as these are Nerinukis principly known factors.
Bibliography
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nishijin-ori
[2] https://redsunrising-blog.tumblr.com/post/4627468115/the-garments-of-the-ruling-class-during-the-edo
[3] http://emuseum.nich.go.jp/detail?langId=en&webView=&content_base_id=100559&content_part_id=0&content_pict_id=0
[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sericin
Socials:
https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav or https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ or https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw, or https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/
Monday, May 23, 2022
巴蜀錦 | Bashu Jin | (Ba)Shu (-Jiang) Brocade | Fabrics #14
Apologies this is up on a Monday, I had to do overtime at my day-job this Sunday.
Bashu brocade is a type of brocade which originates from the Sichuan area of modern China. It is known as the 'mother of Chinese brocade' and is known for being an important non material part of Chinese Sericulture, which played a key role in the development of Kinu in Japan.[1][3] It is known in China as a 'national intangible cultural property'.[2] In its heyday, it was a prized Nara textile worn by the upper courts in Japan and has a fuzzy edge to it.[6] Bashu brocade requires complex antiquated hand machinery operated by two weavers known in English as a 'Tower Loom'.[3][4] Due to this complex process, only 6-8cm of Bashu brocade are made in a day.[4]
Bashu brocade is made by weaving using a Chengdu machine which is made from hundreds of Bamboo rods, whose material successor was the Ming Loom.[1] The background of the Brocade is first interlaced with the pattern woven into the brocade using a series of looms along a wheel or Axle by the upper weaver who pulls on the warp threads making the background, often red, brown or black.[1][3][6] The weft are pulled taut by the lower weaver, and the correct warp strings divided up and a hook is run over them. Silk threads are laid by the planned design, and corresponding silk threads are placed on the hook and pulled through the brocade to be pulled down into place by the lower weaver to make the brocade.[2] The lower weaver must know over 120 stitches to do this Embroidering.[4] The ends of the warp threads are knotted off and the weft threads pulled taut.[2] The Axel also helps to keep the threads taut as the upper weaver pulls them through the loom. When the pattern is complete, it is removed and washed in running water.[3]
Bashu began in China around 3000 years ago. Bashu culture is considered one of 3 of the birthplaces of Chinese culture, particularly Sericulture.[1] Beginning by 221 BCE, the industry of Sericulture for the Shu kingdom was an important facet of Chinese culture.[1] By 220 CE the formation of regulation began to take hold of Bashu sericulture.[3] This formed the beginning of the famed Southern Silk 'Road' routes to countries like Mongolia, India, Persia and Japan (via Ryukyuu) which spanned the Eurasian continent and surrounding archipelagoes.[1][8]
Silk was first produced in Neolithic China (10,000-2000BC), and introduced to Japan by 300 AD [of Hemp and animal fibers].[3][4]
Bashu brocade was then introduced into Japan by 618 CE when it reached a new golden age, becoming worn by people like Emperor Taizong (598CE-649CE).[4] It was a pivotal Chinese export during the Tang dynasty until its collapse in 907 CE and this is reflected in the Japanese imperial courts styles, which may have been worn by the likes of Empress Suiko (554CE-628CE) who wore them, probably more so as a gesture of goodwill after she sent the letter declaring 'Wa' to be their own sovereign country from the great 'Celestial Empire'. If you are to look in the Shosoin Repository for example, you can see the influence of the Chinese bureaucrat Zhang Yanyuan (815-877CE) who introduced the paired animal motif into brocade.[7] Extant examples being Crane and Sika Deer for example.[1] It is said therefore that this has inspired some Nishijin weaves motifs in Japan as 'traditional' motifs.[8]
Between 1000-1800, Bashu brocade remained a traditionally prized craft and was thus unaltered and fluctured in popularity as an export as it was overtaken by other more popular Indian and Persian samite silks overseas. By the late 1800s, Bashu brocade was a highly specialised craft worn only by the rich, and was at risk of becoming a lost art. During this time, it became synonymous with Chinese painting styles and attracted many painters to make designs in Chengdu.[8] By the 20th century, efforts began to be made to save the craft and were exhibited internationally.[6] Over in Japan, the intricate designs whilst not as popular after the introduction of Zen Aesthetics in 1200CE-1650CE, are still used today in Kitsuke and apparel designs like Zori ( Wedged Sandals | 草履 ).[5]
Overall, Bashu or Shu Brocade was the predominant Chinese silk export until 900 CE until Ms.Suiko sent that letter, but was certainly regarded as a form of High and refined culture in Chinese and neighbouring countries from the Golden Age of Chinese culture, the Tang Dynasty (I recommend the Empress of China 2014 Fan Bingbing Drama if you want more context). Whilst having a complicated relation from 607 on, Bashj brocade was worn by court nobles in Japan from this time until the Nara period when Japan begaan making its own Kinu.[4] After this the motifs and styles remained influential on modern Kimono design as part of the 'Shu brocade' motifs of complex ornamental and animal motifs on red and brown backgrounds.[9]
Bibliography
[1] https://artsandculture.google.com/story/shu-brocade-the-earliest-brocade-in-china/hwKC7Tji8PKvJw
[2] Craftsmen of Shujin Brocade | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMy0Ve8pKMg
[3] https://www.chinadiscovery.com/sichuan/chengdu/shu-brocade-embroidery-museum.html
[4] See Fabrics #3
[4] https://www.2021chengdu.com/activity/news/newsDetail?id=11440&lang=en&cid=jd_ms
[5] https://shop.japanobjects.com/products/shu-zori-slippers
[6] https://www.chinatravel.com/culture/chinese-brocade
[7] The Significance of the Central Asian Objects in the Shōsōin for Understanding the International Art Trade in the Seventh and Eighth Centuries, William E. Mierse, March 2017, p.267, Sino Platonic Papers | http://sino-platonic.org/complete/spp267_shosoin.pdf
[8] http://www.csstoday.com/Item/3557.aspx
[9] https://inf.news/en/culture/2e8d83ca5020b771bee089116aee7cd7.html
Social Links
One stop Link shop: https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav or https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ or https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/
Sunday, April 10, 2022
Making a Haori and a rant about the beauty of Transitioning
Good Sunday good folk!
I am currently taking a break as quite a lot has happened recently which I am still waiting to pass for the time being. So I decided to finish a project that has sat in my project box for a while and make a haori from deadstock fabric. Have you seen how nice this deadstock fabric is though!?
The sleeves are 75 finished, I'm still trying to get the configuration right with the rest of my torso, which is proving a bit of a pain given that all I have leftover is around 30cm of the right fabric. For anyone interested this took 2 old dresses to make and looks almost more of a Dochugi length than a Haori, but the fabric is really adorable so it's fine.
Im planning to embroider the back, but Im still looking for the right motifs. They'll be drawn from the history of British and Japanese inter-cultural history. I think theyll include:
- Chalkboard with Poole Gakuin written in English
- Frank Morley Fletcher Painting
- Hiking stick
- Yokohama Bluff
- A Donation Pot
- Anglo-Japanese Treaty of Commerce and Navigation (1894)
- Kimono Cabinet (1901)
- Sadayakkos Hamlet flower crown (1903)
- Noh mask
- Invitation to Lady Arnolds Afternoon Tea
- A cat
- Japan in Pictures (1904)
- Kwaidan Cover Art (1904)
- Cover of the Daehan Maeil Sinbo (1904)
- A Wedding Ring
- Citron fruit
- Ama and Jewel Tsuba from Japanese Treasure Tales (1906)
- A collection of books in a series
- A brown Mingei pot
- A crane
- A letter addressed to Ozaki
- An illustrators pen
- Sculptors carving tools
- A newspaper
- Budokwai Logo
- Jujitsu uniform
- An Umbrella
- A paper parasol
- A watercolour by Kokki Miyake
- Prints by Kamisaka Sekka
- Beginning of Lady Reading (1906) by Ishibashi Kazunori
- A love letter to Hart-Synnot (1906)
- Yoshio Markino print (1907)
- Renee Viviens hat
- 2cnd place ribbon for the Surrey Brooklands motor race (1907)
- Drooping Wisteria
- Sansoms rounded glasses
- Aesthetic Hand fan
- Ticker tape machine
- Japan British Exhibition Postcard (1910)
- Edith Margaret Garruds Hat from the Sketch (1910)
- Red Bridges
- Most Honourable Order of the Bath medallion
- Stone lantern
- Kakemono
- Bamboo garden feature
- Haikara-san
- Taihaku blossom
- Fossils
- Tomimoto Kenkichi pottery
- Bernard Leach pottery
- Clotted cream knife
- Ryuson Chuzo Matsuyama print
- Pottery shard from the Jomon period with label 'to Scotland'
- Butterflies from China, Japan Corea (1912)
- Wilson Kabu and Kamidana
- Titanic Letterhead (1914)
- A spoiled Buddha (1919)
- Blue Hakama
- Kawai Kanjiro pottery
- Thomas Baty's wig
- Charles William Bartlett print
- Male ballet uniform
- Moga
- 73 Harcourt Terraces Conservatory
- Sempills Plane
- A bottle of Nikka Whisky
- Sen Yans Devotion (1924)
- Scotch JMT-3100
- An Omelette on a book
- Design plans for the Yamato (1937)
- Upturned hat and a sign reading 'Prime Minister’s son – penniless'
Work
Work has decided that for some reason, both this and next weekend have workdays on the weekend so Ive taken the opportunity to get my life-...
-
Nibutani-attushi is a fabric made from tree bark. Nibutani originates from the Ainu word (Niputai) translating to ' a land where the tre...
-
Unfortunately a quick one today as I have a rather busy schedule this coming week. The Izaribata/Jibata loom ( 地機 ) is a traditional loom us...
-
Giving an extraordinarily loose definition of art here:_, some artists I like: 1 1014uuu A Absolutely Abby Keen Abel Gower Abel Tilahun Abdu...