Nerinuki is a Nishijin-ori derivative shiny silk fabric used to make the Tsujigahana techique.[1] Most designs done in Nerinuki use dark colourways. To create the fabric, the Tate threads being raw silk and the Yoko threads being degummed silk threads, made by removing excess sericin from the fibres.[3][4] Nerinuki is more commonly seen today as an archaic textile with most extant work coming from the late Edo period, but was always used in some capacity between the Momoyama and Edo periods.
Nerinuki as a term originates from around 1566, when the designs were often finished in pinks, purples and lighter colourways. Nerinuki was most popular during the early 17th century, before it gave way to Rinzu which was a less rigid textile to work with allowing for the more trendy flowy Ji-monnyou.[2] Examples include Nurihaku (Noh costumes) given by Tokugawa Ieyasu for performances of Kyogen.[3] Nerinuki continued into the Edo period but using darker colourways such as purple, crimson, brown and black. By the early 19th century, Nerinuki was more commonly used as a base colour to embroider upon to bring out the elaborate and rich decorative motifs on Kimono. I cannot find existing modern examples, but would most likely still be a deep colour and use embroidery as these are Nerinukis principly known factors.
Bibliography
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nishijin-ori
[2] https://redsunrising-blog.tumblr.com/post/4627468115/the-garments-of-the-ruling-class-during-the-edo
[3] http://emuseum.nich.go.jp/detail?langId=en&webView=&content_base_id=100559&content_part_id=0&content_pict_id=0
[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sericin
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