紅葉 | Momiji | Maple Leaves | Patterns #14

Momiji refers to the motif of leaves from the maple tree, often most affiliated with the autumn season when they turn to a beautiful red and are shed onto the floor. The most commonly used in Wafuku is the Kaede leaf (Acer Japonicum).[1] Other popular motifs include the arabesque swirling waves of the Karakusa pattern, water ( Ryusui-ni-Momiji ) and with deer motifs.[1] 

The origins of the motif can be traced to the Nara period when they were admired for covering mountains in their yellow hues.[1] During the Heian period this changed to red when they were used as allegorical devices in Heian poetry and wafuku as a way to rejuvenate the body after a long sticky summer in preparing for the autumn, around towns like Tatsugawa.[1] This poetic change may be a moral story surrounding having the child of child Genji as opposed to the Emperors child in Momiji no Ga, the 7th chapter of the Tale of Genji's Messy Lovelife after which Fujitsubo, the Emperors lover decided to raise the child as a single mother at court. Instead Genji has to content himself with doing some Bugaku, seeing Fujitsubos child cousin playing with dolls, and watching his mates squabble in the end pining for Fujitsubo.[6]

Genroku Maple and Water Kosode fragment with Autumn Kanji (c1690, PD) LACMA

Note the Genroku propensity for writing all over everything!

By around the 16th century, plays like the Noh play Momijigari ( Maple Viewing ) foretold of the dangers of getting too drunk during Momijigari as you apparently could get attacked by demon-ladies trying to break your heart.[5] By the Genroku period this was mixed with the designs of popular designers such as Ogata Korin in a call back to the idea of Wamono in the assertion of Japaneseness by using the 'Korin-momiji-mon' motif.[2][3] In vernacular history, it is said that for an Asobi to send a Momiji to a man is to have left him, becuase she has changed colours and grown bored of him in doing so.[4] During the 1920s, a great number of popular Meisen kimono seem to have used seasonal motifs like Momiji in asserting their Wamono-ness. Other examples also show this happened again in the 1950s in polyester, with Momiji retaining its popularity. Today people go to Arashimaya or Noboribetsu to see the changing Momiji.

Bibliography

[1] https://int.kateigaho.com/articles/tradition/patterns-29/

[2] See Essay #8 under Ogata Korin

[3] For an example of Wamono beauty standards, see Bijin #10 under Komin Codifying the Genroku-Wamono Bijin and Bijin #9 under Early Ukiyo-e in Print and Technology for context.

[4] https://www.academia.edu/18981047/Momiji_the_Maple_Leaf_on_Monet_s_Kimono

[5] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Momijigari_(play)

[6] https://www.japanese-wiki-corpus.org/literature/Momiji%20no%20Ga.html#:~:text=Momiji%20no%20Ga%20(%E7%B4%85%E8%91%89%E8%B3%80,next%20autumn%20at%20age%2019.

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清海波 | Seigeiha | (Blue) Sea & Waves | Patterns #4

The Seigeiha pattern is a repeating half moon circular motif of stylised waves. It is worn frequently on Yukata, but can also be found less frequently on some Kimono and Obi more sparingly to my knowledge, and is often used a relief to break up a large empty space in a design as a Ji-monnyou (Ground-pattern).[1] It is said Seigeiha is meant to represent the calming quiet presence and peace found in a still sea scene and the resilience of water, also representing the bringing of wealth and power.[2][3] Yabureseigeiha (Broken waves) incorporates the design by omitting some waves and is popular for Obi designs. Modern designs are now used frequently used on a great varying of surfaces in applied and decorative arts such as the 2019 World Rugby uniform for Japan.[1]

Seigeiha (CC2.0 Filter Forge 2015)

The pattern has been around since the 3rd-6th century on Haniwa (埴輪|Terracotta burial figures) in Gunma prefecture.[2][6] The design itself was originally found on Chinese maps.[6] The motif is popularly associated with the costume of performers who played a part of the Seigeiha programme of Gagaku (雅楽|Traditional East Asian Court Music).[1] The ritualised performance or Bugaku (舞楽|Dancing Gagaku) calls for 2 performers, who wave around their sleeves and swords and is associated with the Momiji-no-Ga (紅葉賀|Autumn Excursion) in the 7th chapter of Murasaki's Genji. Performers wear Hanpi (半臂|Sleeveless Tops) embroiled in peony, Ho (outer robes) emblazened with plovers and the Shitagasane (下襲|Inner Robe) embroidered with the Seigeiha and mists, which here the Hanpi is the bright green, the Ho the orange and the Shitagasane the dark green.[4] I think. 

Seigeiha Bugaku

The Autumn Excursion occurs between Genji's 18th trip around and the year and 19th trip around the sun beginning and ending in autumn. Genji has knocked up the Emperors favourite, Lady Fujitsubo and keeps pestering her until eventually she ignores him. Genji instead spends his time preparing to perform the Bugaku to celebrate his lovechild's arrival and preoccupies his time dancing and admiring Fujitsubo's neice instead. During rehearsals she catches a glimpse behind her reed screen and when their eyes met for but a second, her resolution of ignoring Genji stalled and she sent him a single letter. Fujitsubo gave birth the following February but along with Genji, feels a great guilt when the Emperor remarks how wonderful it is that her son, resembles Genji. Even after this fact though, the waves of love (I know I ruined it but explaning jokes is so funny right \-w-/) continued to wash over Genji and he continued with his Fujitsubo love affair.[5]  From the Heian period onwards it decorated Mo (裳|Junihitoe shirt). This transferred into ceramics, sand gardens, temple layouts and architecture by the Kamakura period and has remained a highly popular Wagara (Japanese traditional pattern) ever since.[6] 

Bibliography

[1] http://project-japan.jp/seigaiha/

[2] https://polinacouture.com/en/the-meaning-of-patterns-on-japanese-fabrics/

[3] https://pen-online.com/design/seigaiha-the-wave-motif-inspiring-contemporary-french-fashion/#:~:text=The%20Seigaiha%20wave%20is%20an,seas%20and%20oceans%20on%20maps.

[4] https://www.japanese-wiki-corpus.org/culture/Seigaiha%20(a%20program%20of%20gagaku%20[ancient%20Japanese%20court%20dance%20and%20music]).html

[5] https://www.japanese-wiki-corpus.org/literature/Momiji%20no%20Ga.html

[6] http://www.aisf.or.jp/~jaanus/deta/s/seigaiha.htm

Further Links

Linfamy on Gagaku: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzPtzcTEdoI 

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