The Seigeiha pattern is a repeating half moon circular motif of stylised waves. It is worn frequently on Yukata, but can also be found less frequently on some Kimono and Obi more sparingly to my knowledge, and is often used a relief to break up a large empty space in a design as a Ji-monnyou (Ground-pattern).[1] It is said Seigeiha is meant to represent the calming quiet presence and peace found in a still sea scene and the resilience of water, also representing the bringing of wealth and power.[2][3] Yabureseigeiha (Broken waves) incorporates the design by omitting some waves and is popular for Obi designs. Modern designs are now used frequently used on a great varying of surfaces in applied and decorative arts such as the 2019 World Rugby uniform for Japan.[1]
The pattern has been around since the 3rd-6th century on Haniwa (埴輪|Terracotta burial figures) in Gunma prefecture.[2][6] The design itself was originally found on Chinese maps.[6] The motif is popularly associated with the costume of performers who played a part of the Seigeiha programme of Gagaku (雅楽|Traditional East Asian Court Music).[1] The ritualised performance or Bugaku (舞楽|Dancing Gagaku) calls for 2 performers, who wave around their sleeves and swords and is associated with the Momiji-no-Ga (紅葉賀|Autumn Excursion) in the 7th chapter of Murasaki's Genji. Performers wear Hanpi (半臂|Sleeveless Tops) embroiled in peony, Ho (outer robes) emblazened with plovers and the Shitagasane (下襲|Inner Robe) embroidered with the Seigeiha and mists, which here the Hanpi is the bright green, the Ho the orange and the Shitagasane the dark green.[4] I think.
The Autumn Excursion occurs between Genji's 18th trip around and the year and 19th trip around the sun beginning and ending in autumn. Genji has knocked up the Emperors favourite, Lady Fujitsubo and keeps pestering her until eventually she ignores him. Genji instead spends his time preparing to perform the Bugaku to celebrate his lovechild's arrival and preoccupies his time dancing and admiring Fujitsubo's neice instead. During rehearsals she catches a glimpse behind her reed screen and when their eyes met for but a second, her resolution of ignoring Genji stalled and she sent him a single letter. Fujitsubo gave birth the following February but along with Genji, feels a great guilt when the Emperor remarks how wonderful it is that her son, resembles Genji. Even after this fact though, the waves of love (I know I ruined it but explaning jokes is so funny right \-w-/) continued to wash over Genji and he continued with his Fujitsubo love affair.[5] From the Heian period onwards it decorated Mo (裳|Junihitoe shirt). This transferred into ceramics, sand gardens, temple layouts and architecture by the Kamakura period and has remained a highly popular Wagara (Japanese traditional pattern) ever since.[6]
Bibliography
[1] http://project-japan.jp/seigaiha/
[2] https://polinacouture.com/en/the-meaning-of-patterns-on-japanese-fabrics/
[3] https://pen-online.com/design/seigaiha-the-wave-motif-inspiring-contemporary-french-fashion/#:~:text=The%20Seigaiha%20wave%20is%20an,seas%20and%20oceans%20on%20maps.
[4] https://www.japanese-wiki-corpus.org/culture/Seigaiha%20(a%20program%20of%20gagaku%20[ancient%20Japanese%20court%20dance%20and%20music]).html
[5] https://www.japanese-wiki-corpus.org/literature/Momiji%20no%20Ga.html
[6] http://www.aisf.or.jp/~jaanus/deta/s/seigaiha.htm
Further Links
Linfamy on Gagaku: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzPtzcTEdoI
Social links:
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav or https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ or https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw, or https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/
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