Her Haughtynesses Decree

Showing posts with label HighDenier. Show all posts
Showing posts with label HighDenier. Show all posts

Sunday, April 28, 2024

にぶたにあっつし | Nibutani-attushi | Place where Wood Bark grows quickly Cloth | Fabrics #24

Nibutani-attushi is a fabric made from tree bark. Nibutani originates from the Ainu word (Niputai) translating to 'a land where the trees grow thickly' apparently.[1] The bark fiber is grown and harvested next to Biratori, Hokkaido by Ainu communities.[1] The bark is harvested and fiber contents scrapped from the interior layers of wild Manchurian elms in length strips. These strips then are left to dry and boiled with wood ash. The contents are removed in a sinewy like density, into thin strips of fiber content from the boiled bark and left to dry for 2 weeks.[1] These fiber contents are then left into very thin sheets and turned into 2mm threads. These tiny fiber contents are then woven into thread using a Attushi Karape which is a type of weaving loom perhaps, which uses a lot the dynamics of gravity to put weight on the warp and weft threads when weaving.[1] This is different from Honshu looms, as 2 people are required to operate the weaving process, and is a descendant of the Koshibata (back strap loom).[1] This craft has been produced as a traditional heritage craft since the early 20th century, around the first quarter of the 1900s.[1] The fabric is used for Kimono, Hanten (short coats), aprons, and accessories.[1]

Ainu craftsman in Nibutani at work (2014, CC2.0) Robert Kroos

Nibutani-attushi was originally made as a durable fabric for family members of the Ainu, this is most likely centuries before the 18th century when the first recognition of the craft was known to local literary languages. Later on down the line, Japanese merchants adopted the fabric and it became known throughout Honshu by the 18th century.[1]  Formal written records date this to around 1792.[1] By this time, the Ainu seem to have been due to a lack of access to the sea perhaps, going to the land to produce goods to sell to make their living.[1] This state of affairs would continue into the 20th century, when the craft was recognised by the Heritage Craft associations of Honshu, and then began to boom as an artisan production by the middle of the century. Nibutani crafting became a viable business in the 1950s and the craft went into mass production. These fabrics were some of the first tangible properties in Hokkaido to be designated as such in 2013.[1]

Bibliography

[1] https://kogeijapan.com/locale/en_US/nibutaniattoushi/

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Saturday, October 9, 2021

縮緬 | Chirimen | Crispe | Fabrics #8

Chirimen is a plain woven silk which has a bumpy finish or Shibo, to the touch, with a lotta density. Most Chirimen are worn by older women, and I personally do not like the feel of them, they give me the bejeebies. Specialities like Tango Chirimen is known as a preferential fabric for Yuzen prints for Kimono.[1] Whilst mostly often silk, Chirimen can also be made from Wool or Polyester. It is often used for Kimono, Furoshiki, Kanzashi and as an everyday use sewing fabric.[3] Chirimen is one of the most common fabrics used to make Kimono still.[4]

Modern Mon Chirimen (2015, CC4.0) Naooan

Chirimen is made by using highly twisted undeveloped yarn threads. This becomes a plain weave after being processed through a Hatcho Machine, sometimes Jacquard Looms. Hatcho Machines keep the weft threads wet whilst they spin over the machine to prevent breakage, being spun 3-4000 times a metre of threads. Looser Warps threads are then introduced. After weaving, the textile is checked for sericin (leftover silk worm proteins gunk) and during the removal of sericin, the textile shrinks by around a third. This tightening of alternating threads creates the Shibo effect, like in Shijira-Ori.[2] Factors which affect the final bumpy effect include the amount of weft twisting, fibre denier and the distribution of these across the design frame. For example, weft threads can also be left 'floating', or exposed and knotted, tied off and to create pompom like patterns in the final weave.[1] Tango chirimen uses left hand warp twists (Z-twist) and right hand weft twists (S-twist). Hana or Nagahama chirimen is made by alternating Z-twist and S-twist weft threads.[4][5]

 Types of Chirimen include:  

Kawari Chirimen: Very fine crimping created using one twisted weft thread followed by an un-twisted thread

Hitokoshi Chirimen: Otherwise known as the Nagahama twist, one of the most common Chirimen with a fine alternating twist patterns in the weft [5]

Futakoshi/Kodai Chirimen: Fine crimping patterns formed from two "Z - twist" weft yarns alternating with 2 "S-twist" weft yarns  

Mon Chirimen: Woven to create a pattern which stands out over all the fabric and any printed design [4]  

Historically, Chirimen came to Japan from China at the end of the 1500s when it was brought in by Chinese merchants.[4] Deposited in the Nishijin area of Kyoto, an area known for its textile weaving, it became woven by local weavers. Most of these woven takemono were white, as it was easier for dying rather than being woven in. By 1720, it had spread to Tango Province, today the seaside border of Kyoto, via a Nishijin apprentice, Kinuya Saheiji. By 1754, it had spread to Nagahama, where production reached its height between 1854-1860.[5] The Meji restoration which brought in mechanised production, brought the decline of Chirimen. During the 19th century, Jacquard Looms were introduced into the process to make complex weaves easier to accomplish, in the modern day, punch cards are replaced by computer programming. Between 1912-1926, Chirimen as with many other 'Wafuku' saw a revival in popularity.[5] Modern designers include Reiko Sudo (1953-present).[1] 

Fabrics #9 will be on Nishijin-Ori.

NHK also has a segment on Chirimen : https://www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/tv/journeys/20210105/2007430/

Bibliography

[1] https://www.japanhouselondon.uk/discover/stories/tango-chirimen/

[2] See Fabrics #7

[3] https://onokimono.com/2017/08/09/what-is-chirimen-crepe-textile/

[4] https://www.rochestertextile.com/post/398841446836/japanese-crepe-fabrics-chirimen-kinsha

[5] http://www.kimono.or.jp/dictionary/eng/hamachirimen.html

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Work

 Work has decided that for some reason, both this and next weekend have workdays on the weekend so Ive taken the opportunity to get my life-...