Her Haughtynesses Decree

Showing posts with label Erotica. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Erotica. Show all posts

Sunday, April 16, 2023

徐陵 | Xu Ling | 537 | Bijin #19

Xu Ling ( 徐陵 | 507–583 ) or Xu Xiaomu; was a Chinese classical fogey who wrote and collated steamy poetry about imprisoned aristocratic women in East China during the Asuka period. This became known as the Gongti ( 宮體 | Palace-style ) genre. Very little is known of Xu Ling's life, he is most often remembered for compiling his eroge into the 'poetry anthology' New Songs from the Jade Terrace (537).[1][3] Ling compiled his work for the late Liang Emperor, and Terrace contains mostly pure lustful poetry which became a benchmark for literary erotica in a classical genre, as opposed its predecessor of ancient love poetry depicting metaphorical otherworldly beauty.

Jade Terrace Peak (1588, PD) Song Xu

Folksong Ballads

Yuefu were the cultural predecessor to the Gongti, and were based on Han standards of female folksongs and poetry, however these were not force feeding images of imprisoned women cleaning toilets, ironing clothes and pining over their mirrors and wash basins for their patriarchal counterpart. Rather Yuefu were folk ballads sung by women which alluded to the loss of a beloved or partner, whereas Gongti were the lurid, objectifying erotica of mostly straight men like the Nymph Beauty.[1] 

Palace Poetry

Palace Poetry can be best said to be erotic daydreams of beauties in literary form, at a time when only heavenly or metaphorical beauties were the only socially acceptable type of Bijin or Mei figure, particularly for women. Gongti was said to have started with the writings of Ling's father, Xu Chi ( 徐摛; 471–551CE ).[3] Gongti described the clothes women wore, their actions and their emotions, principally their loneliness and isolatory situation in the domestic sphere. Liang Gongti are characteristically filled with the Lonely Housewife tropes, which are were according to the traditions of serious poetry, apparently what mostly concerned the Liang court with their scholarly time.[1][5] That is to say they enjoyed patriarchal Voyeurism to an extreme.

Liang Gongti females are characteristically Nymphomaniacs who are lurid Meiren who sit around their bathrooms and boudoirs longing for a man to come 'fulfil' them. These 'Abandoned Women' languish in their beds, until the men of the Liang Dynasty come along to give them their sole purpose in life, as ****toys. Fragmentary arms and legs, but not women. As time passed these Abandoned Women were written about by some female writers it seems from the point of view of the women themselves, in a return to the Yuefu conventions Gongti 'grew' from. Gongti diminished in popularity by early Tang as women increasingly began to take up monastic and property ownership positions.[1]

Jade Terraces refer to the Zenanas of Ancient Imperial China where rich women had the lovely option of being imprisoned inside for the enjoyment of their property owners. The Terrace Anthology contained work by 115 poets, 14 of whom were female. Over 769 pieces were based on the Gongti genre of traditionally female Yuefu folksongs about these heteronormative Meiren bathroom/apartment coitus encounters ranging from 20 BCE - 530 CE, like the drunkard's Cao Zhi ( 子建 | 192-232 CE ) Nymph of the River Luo.[1] Others were about the biting of the peach. GAY ONES.[3][5] Key motifs in the Terrace include objects associated with these coitus encounters like Jade, bedrooms, feast halls, musical instruments, lamps, mirror-stands and posh stationary for love letters.[3]

Ling of Liang

Very little is known of Ling the poet. Ling compiled under the patronage of Xiao Gang ( 503-551CE ), the Emperor of the Liang Dynasty ( 549-551CE ). At this time, the Southern Dynasties were heavily influential on existing trends, fashions and major cultural standard bearers as the holders of central authority was passed down to the Southern Dynasties in lieu of the 'Northern Barbarians', a cultural superiority expressed in the decadent culture of the Southern courts as seen in their macho-headman-alpha-big-boy poetry.[1] As such they influenced beauty standards around East Asia and via Korea (Baekje and Silla) into Japan. I shall refresh our understanding of contemporary Chinese beauty standards:

[Contemporary Chinese Beauty Standards] were delved from  the historical annals of Imperial [Han] China in the court system of concubinage. The beauty standard drew thus from black hair with precious stones, slim build and small features. These were what drew court artists to their subjects, with commissioners more concerned over the subjective morals and ethics implicit to the text. Artists in a sense supplemented rather than subverted at this time to make a career for themselves. Women subjects in particular were deemed as more suitable for submissiveness, and often did not take leading roles other than as beauties [... and] were more of an anomaly generally in their discipline[s]. Considering the types of Beauty that were societally acceptable in Kaizhi's time [(364-406 CE)], we find a mostly patriarchal response to feminine efforts. Admonitions for example was the chastisement of an Empress, even though it in some ways tried to flatter the same Empress. [... Metaphorical Beauties like] Nymphs of heaven often really being the only acceptable kind of heteronormative desirable beauty, in that it did not exist on Earth and heralded from the Peach Gardens of Eternity.[2]

Metaphorical beauty more often than not was praised at this time as it denied women agency in their own rights. Women were often seen in the Liang Dynasty as secondary actors to men, particularly in Ling's Terrace Anthology which described women in fragmentary third person descriptions, mostly in alluding to their passing by a gauze curtain, or draping over some other domestic object/task in the inner sanctum of a male court members property.[1] Terrace Meiren were more likely to have their robes, shoes and sleeves falling off in their bed than flying away on whales and phoenixes.[2][5] Metaphorical or Heavenly beauties therefore were accepted Meiren, as they did not exist to usurp male power in the male power fantasy many Gongti sought after. Rather the Meiren was a passive NPG in a male world, lonely and useful only for amusing men, a role both men and women as objects of desire played.

Southern Dynasty beauties from the court of Xiao Gang and the Liang Dynasty (549-551CE) were characteristically the beauties of the Homogenous Han standard; that is a slim, pale-skinned, raven haired and sinuous type of dancer bedecked in expensive, elaborate clothing, hairpins and jewels.[1] Their features whilst not well described due to the nature of the Gongti style's third person narratives may have fit into the acceptable small features desired in mainstream Chinese beauty standards as befitting of their rank as the 'lesser sex' at court. Dressed in the Gui-yi style for their originators, Liang Gongti Meiren whether male or female appeared briefly to satisfy male desires, particularly the decadent and power driven fantasies of the Southern court who pursued their right to rule through soft power.[1][5]

Terrace Mei

In context, we see how the beauty standard for the Southern Dynasties came about, spreading the conceptual origins of the Bijinga around Eastern Asia. These patriarchal standards of beauty spread the idea that skinny, black hair and submissive feminine figures for women and some queer men was the ideal beauty standard.[5] Terrace Mei were Nymphomaniacs, outgoing allusions to lust and desire which whilst providing an outlet for some women, mostly robbed them of the agency which they already had achieved themselves through traditional folksongs. The Terrace Beauty therefore was a homogenous blob of male power fantasy and neighbourly attractions, which by the decline of the Southern Dynasty cultural chokehold after the death of Emperor Wu in 549CE and end of the Liang Dynasty in 551CE, drew to a close with the rise of the Tang Dynasty which saw an increase in female agency, property ownership and monastic ingratiation as Buddhism came to the fore.

Bibliography

[1] Watching the Voyeurs: Palace Poetry and the Yuefu of Wen Tingyun, December 1989, Paul Rouzer, Volume 11, pp.13-31, CLEAR Journal | https://www.jstor.org/stable/495525

[2] See Bijin #16

[3] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Songs_from_the_Jade_Terrace

[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northern_and_Southern_dynasties#Liang

[5] New songs from a jade terrace : an anthology of early Chinese love poetry, 1982, Ann Birrell, pp.7-14

Bijin Series Timeline

11th century BCE

- The Ruqun becomes a formal garment in China (1045 BCE); Ruqun Mei

8th century BCE

- Chinese clothing becomes highly hierarchical (770 BCE)

3rd century BCE

Xi Shi (flourished c201-900CE); The Drunken Lotus Bijin

2cnd century BCE

        - The Han Dynasty

0000 Current Era

1st century

        - Han Tomb portraiture begins as an extension of Confucian Ancestor Worship; first Han aesthetic                                scholars dictate how East Asian composition and art ethics begin

                       - Isometric becomes the standard for East Asian Composition (c.100); Dahuting Tomb Murals

                       - Ban Zhao introduces Imperial Court to her Lessons for Women (c106);                                      Women play major roles in the powerplay of running of China consistently                                until 1000 CE, influencing Beauty standards

                       - Qiyun Shengdong begins to make figures more plump and Bijin-like (c.150) but still pious

2cnd century

             - Yuefu folk ballads inspire desirable beauty standards of pining women

4th century

Gu Kaizhi (active 364-406); Metaphorical Beauty

        - Chinese Artists begin to make aesthetic beauties in ethereal religious roles of heavenly Nymphs

                       - Luo River Nymph Tale Scroll (c.400)

          - Womens clothing emphasized the waist as the Guiyi (Swallow-Tail Flying Ribbons) style (c.400)

                       - Wise and Benevolent Women (c.400)

5th century

          - Chinese Art becomes decadent; Imperial Culture begins to see more expression in religious statues (c450)

                       - Longmen Grotto Boddhisattvas (471)

6th century

Xu Ling; (active 537-583); Terrace Meiren

7th century

            - Tang Dynasty Art (618-908)

           - Rouged Bijin (600-699 CE) [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty

Yan Liben (active 642-673); Bodhisattva Bijin [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A1.jpg Guan Yin  | https://archive.org/details/viewsfromjadeter00weid/page/22/mode/1up?view=theater

Wu Zetian (active 665-705); The Great Tang Art Patron [Coming Soon]

Asuka Bijin (c.699); The Wa Bijin

8th century

            - Princess Yongtai's Veneration Murals (701) [Coming Soon]

- Introduction of Chinese Tang Dynasty clothing (710)

- Sumizuri-e (710)

Yang Yuhuan Guifei (719-756); [Coming Soon] East Asian Supermodel Bijin https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/275768522.pdf https://factsanddetails.com/china/cat2/4sub9/entry-5437.html#chapter-5

Zhang Xuan (active 720-755); [Coming Soon]

- What is now Classical Chinese Art forms

                    - An Lushun Rebellion (757) 

 Zhou Fang (active 766-805) ; Qiyun Bijin

- Emakimono Golden Age (799-1400)

9th century

                       - Buddhist Bijin [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty#/media/File:Noble_Ladies_Worshiping_Buddha.jpg + https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mogao_Caves#/media/File:Anonymous-Bodhisattva_Leading_the_Way.jpg

                    - Gongti Revival https://www.jstor.org/stable/495525?seq=2#metadata_info_tab_contents

10th century

                       -End of Tang Art (907)

13th century

                     - Heimin painters; 1200-1850; Town Beauty

15th century 

- Fuzokuga Painting schools; Kano (1450-1868) and Tosa (1330-1690) 

Tang Yin (active 1490-1524); Chinese Beauties [Coming Soon] https://www.comuseum.com/painting/masters/tang-yin/ 

16 century 

- Nanbanjin Art (1550-1630) 

- Wamono style begins under Chanoyu teachings (c1550-1580)

- Byobu Screens (1580-1670)

 - End of Sengoku Jidai brings Stabilisation policy (1590-1615)  

17th century  

- Land to Currency based Economy Shift (1601-1655)

- Early Kabuki Culture (1603-1673) ; Yakusha-e or Actor Prints

- Machi-Eshi Art ( 1610 - 1710) ; The Town Beauty

- Sumptuary legislation in reaction to the wealth of the merchant classes (1604-1685) 

- Regulation of export and imports of foreign trade in silk and cotton (1615-1685)  

Iwasa Matabei (active 1617-1650) ; Yamato-e Bijin  

The Hikone Screen (c.1624-1644) [Coming Soon]

- Sankin-Kotai (1635-1642) creates mass Urbanisation  

- Popular culture and print media production moves from Kyoto to Edo (1635-1650); Kiyohara Yukinobu (1650-1682) ; Manji Classical Beauty

- Shikomi-e (1650-1670) and Kakemono-e which promote Androgynous Beauties;

 Iwasa Katsushige (active 1650-1673) ; Kojin Bijin

- Mass Urbanisation instigates the rise of Chonin Cottage Industry Printing (1660-1690) ; rise of the Kabunakama Guilds and decline of the Samurai

- Kanazoshi Books (1660-1700); Koshokubon Genre (1659?-1661)

- Shunga (1660-1722); Abuna-e

Kanbun Master/School (active during 1661-1673) ; Maiko Bijin 

- Hinagata Bon (1666 - 1850) 

- Ukiyo Monogatari is published by Asai Ryoi (1666) 

Yoshida Hanbei (active 1664-1689) ; Toned-Down Bijin

- Asobi/Suijin Dress Manuals (1660-1700)

- Ukiyo-e Art (1670-1900)

Hishikawa Moronobu (active 1672-1694) ; Wakashu Bijin

- Early Bijin-ga begin to appear as Kakemono (c.1672)  

- Rise of the Komin-Chonin Relationship (1675-1725)

- The transit point from Kosode to modern Kimono (1680); Furisode, Wider Obi 

- The Genroku Osaka Bijin (1680 - 1700) ; Yuezen Hiinakata

Fu Derong (active c.1675-1722) ; [Coming Soon] https://archive.org/details/viewsfromjadeter00weid/page/111/mode/1up?view=theater

Sugimura Jihei (active 1681-1703) ; Technicolour Bijin 

- The Amorous Tales are published by Ihara Saikaku (1682-1687)

Hishikawa Morofusa (active 1684-1704) [Coming Soon]

- The Beginning of the Genroku Era (1688-1704)

- The rise of the Komin and Yuujo as mainstream popular culture (1688-1880) 

- The consolidation of the Bijinga genre as mainstream pop culture 

- The rise of the Torii school (1688-1799) 

- Tan-E (1688-1710)   

Miyazaki Yuzen (active 1688-1736) ; Genroku Komin and Wamono Bijin 

Torii Kiyonobu (active 1688 - 1729) : Commercial Bijin

Furuyama Moromasa (active 1695-1748)

18th century

Nishikawa Sukenobu (active 1700-1750) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Ando (active 1700-1736) ; Broadstroke Bijin

Okumura Masanobu (active 1701-1764)

Kaigetsudo Doshin (active 1704-1716) [Coming Soon]

Baioken Eishun (active 1710-1755) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Anchi (active 1714-1716) [Coming Soon]

Yamazaki Joryu (active 1716-1744) [Coming Soon] | https://www.jstor.org/stable/25790976?seq=5

1717 Kyoho Reforms

Miyagawa Choshun (active 1718-1753) [Coming Soon]

Miyagawa Issho (active 1718-1780) [Coming Soon]

Nishimura Shigenaga (active 1719-1756) [Coming Soon]

Matsuno Chikanobu (active 1720-1729) [Coming Soon]

- Beni-E (1720-1743)

Torii Kiyonobu II (active 1725-1760) [Coming Soon]

- Uki-E (1735-1760)

Kawamata Tsuneyuki (active 1736-1744) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (1739-1820)

Miyagawa Shunsui (active from 1740-1769) [Coming Soon]

Benizuri-E (1744-1760)

Ishikawa Toyonobu (active 1745-1785) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Settei (active 1753-1787) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1756-1787) [Coming Soon]

Shunsho Katsukawa (active 1760-1793) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyoharu (active 1763-1814) [Coming Soon]

Suzuki Harunobu (active 1764-1770) [Coming Soon]

- Nishiki-E (1765-1850)

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1765-1815) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (active 1765-1820) [Coming Soon]

Maruyama Okyo (active 1766-1795) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Utamaro (active 1770-1806) [Coming Soon]

Kubo Shunman (active 1774-1820) [Coming Soon]

Tsutaya Juzaburo (active 1774-1797) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunimasa (active from 1780-1810) [Coming Soon]

Tanehiko Takitei (active 1783-1842) [Coming Soon]

Katsukawa Shuncho (active 1783-1795) [Coming Soon]

Choubunsai Eishi (active 1784-1829) [Coming Soon]

Eishosai Choki (active 1786-1808) [Coming Soon]

Rekisentei Eiri (active 1789-1801) [Coming Soon] [https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ukiyo-e_paintings#/media/File:Rekisentei_Eiri_-_'800),_Beauty_in_a_White_Kimono',_c._1800.jpg]

Sakurai Seppo (active 1790-1824) [Coming Soon]

Chokosai Eisho (active 1792-1799) [Coming Soon]

Kunimaru Utagawa (active 1794-1829) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyokuni II (active 1794 - 1835) [Coming Soon]

Ryūryūkyo Shinsai (active 1799-1823) [Coming Soon]

19th century

Teisai Hokuba (active 1800-1844) [Coming Soon]

Totoya Hokkei (active 1800-1850) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada Toyokuni III (active 1800-1865) [Coming Soon]

Urakusai Nagahide (active from 1804) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Tsukimaro (active 1804 - 1836)

Kikukawa Eizan (active 1806-1867) [Coming Soon]

Keisai Eisen (active 1808-1848) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kuniyoshi (active 1810-1861) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Hiroshige (active 1811-1858) [Coming Soon]

Yanagawa Shigenobu (active 1818-1832) [Coming Soon]

Katsushika Oi (active 1824-1866) [Coming Soon]

Hirai Renzan (active 1838ー?) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada II (active 1844-1880) [Coming Soon]

Yamada Otokawa (active 1845) [Coming Soon] | 山田音羽子 https://www.jstor.org/stable/25790976?seq=10

Toyohara Kunichika (active 1847-1900) [Coming Soon]

Kano Hogai (active 1848-1888) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Yoshitoshi (active 1850-1892) [Coming Soon]

Noguchi Shohin (active c1860-1917) [Coming Soon]

Toyohara Chikanobu (active 1875-1912) [Coming Soon]

Uemura Shoen (active 1887-1949) [Coming Soon]

Kiyokata Kaburaki (active 1891-1972) [Coming Soon]

Goyo Hashiguchi (active 1899-1921) [Coming Soon]

20th century

Yumeji Takehisa (active 1905-1934) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kotondo (active 1915-1976) [Coming Soon]

Hisako Kajiwara (active 1918-1988) [Coming Soon] https://www.roningallery.com/artists/kajiwara-hisako | https://www.jstor.org/stable/25790976

Yamakawa Shūhō (active 1927-1944) [Coming Soon]


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Saturday, March 18, 2023

紗 | Sha | Plainweave Hitoe Gauze | Fabric #18

Sha (紗) is the older hand woven predecessor to Ro fabric. Sha fabrics often made up the summer kimono, kosode and yukata of the Heian period down to today, and which are normally adopted globally most popularly in the Haori which employ their innovative fabric potentials for summerwear. Woven using the staple Karamiori weave, the weave allows the wearer to reveal the underneath fabric with subtle hinting and shading from the transparency of the weave and width of the eyes that Sha has over Ro. Twists in the warp threads allow larger eyes than Ro eyes, creating emerging patterns in Sha designs.[1]

Heian Sha Example (1922, PD) Tsutomu Ema

Momiji Monsha (2023, CC4.0) TykeLass

Sha began to be made in the Heian period by hand, for the elites of Japanese society to wear as formalwear in the sweltering heatwaves of July and August which Sei Shonagan believed to be unbecoming of feminine propriety.[1] Unfortunately, it was difficult to dye the natural fibers used to make handmade Sha, so Ro was created in the Edo period to do so.[1] By the Meiji period, this was made redundant as Sha fibers could be made using machines and the nature of these light designs made it easy to make fashionable pictures of ladies in revealing hitoe. In the modern day, Sha is made by machine, creating Monsha ( 紋紗 | Pattern Sha) which is made using a mix of Leno and Plain weaves, but most often regular Sha is worn daily by monks.[1]

Bibliography

[1] https://rosha.jp/faq/02_about_ro-sha/ro_sha_chigai/

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Sunday, February 20, 2022

壊月堂安度 | Kaigetsudo Ando | 1671–1743 | Bijin #12

Some news, I will only from March onwards be doing this blog fortnightly, as I have put other projects on hold, and they are in dire need of my jump starting them, but I will continue so may there be no doubt in that. In some effort to seperate the Ando school, Im doing this one this month. 

Kaigetsudo Ando (active 1700-1736) was the founder of  the Kaigetsudō school of Ukiyo-e, which included the Bijin-ga genre. He was known for only making paintings, and never woodblock prints though, earmarking him as something of an 'artiste' than simply and artist. One of his great influences was the iconic Hishikawa Moronobu (lauder of the Wakashu Bijin) and Yoshida Hanbei (promoter of the Toned-down Bijin). Ando was particular in following the Suijin-Komin-Chonin lifestyle, and is not out of the ordinary for his time in pursuing making an artform out of what was essentially Gravure ( Glamour photography shots | Gurabia | グラビア). After 1714, Ando left Edo due to scandal but continued to work, perhaps teaching his school to his pupils.[1][2]

The said scandal is rather delicious, the Ejima-Ikushima affair is a detailed love-betrayal story about power. Essentially, Ejima was a member of the Tokugawas harem, the Ooku, and one of her rivals for the shoguns affections was the official shogun wife, Tenei-In. Ejima, who was out after her curfew, had been seeing her lover the Kabuki Actor Ikushima, and was late back. When Ooku who was in the middle of getting her factions heir in the shogunal seat of power caught wind, she reported it and the whole affair eventually won Tenei-In the battle of the harem-women. Ejima was sanctioned, with her borther committing Harry-Karrie.[4] It seems Ando was in some way involved with Ikushima.[1]

Beauty looking Back (1711, PD) Kaigetsudo Ando

A man of Yoshiwara

Ando was active in Asakusa in the early 18th century, not too far away from the legendary Yoshiwara. It is said that he was dominant in the production and promotion of using Yuujo, male and female, in creating Bijin-ga.[1]

It is notable to explore why Yoshiwara was used as a place to scout Ukiyo-E Models at this time. Historically, women on tap was a rich mans game, particularly in Japan, so only the military elites would have held a menagerie of bodily delights. However, this all changed when the Sankin Kotai was enacted and from 1635 on, saw the rise of the new Chonin class. This changed once again by 1685 in reaction from the Bakufu by their growing rich people disgust of the merchant classes spending said money.[2][5] This came in the form of the sumptuary laws, and saw the rise of more covert expenditure, and eventually this meant the start of hierarchical fashion laws (and their cultural reaction of 'Iki') and the confinement of Yuujo to the pleasure districts in a bid to curb the outragerous spending habits of Osaka merchants and Edo Chonin in the creation of GKTC (1688-1704).[2][5][6]

So by the 1710s, when Ando was creating his Kabuki-esque Bijin-ga, he was painting in reaction to the legal limitations imposed since the 1680s on Japanese society, depicting the underground spending which of course still went on but was done more discretely then. This was a world now focused on legal brothels, Wakashu-Kabuki and Shunga. Yoshiwara was simply a sort of Edo cultural hub where all these licentious and titillating fashions, functions and classes converged to do their business. 

Yoshiwara served Asobi and Suijin alike, but most popular certainly was the Wakashu and Kagema, or young male sex worker. This was also the case in Kabuki, all of which had their origins in carnal pleasures and their associated bodily gestures in theatre, but had been stripped back by Laws which saw these things such as women dancing erotically and free sex as rather poor-people-icky. Wakashu certainly with their sexy forelocks.[7]

Andos Bijin

It is thought that Ando was trained in the style of Ema ( wish plaques | 絵馬 ). This is thought to be shown in how he utilises space in composition, an aesthetic known today as Ma.[1] He undoubtedly in my opinion was a man who followed the trend of imitating the 'Kabuki' style or Torii school of Japanese Kabuki posterboard design of the late 17th century.

These designs which are particularly interesting to the fashion historian, detail the most up-to-date fashions which were worn by the lovely people down at Yoshiwara.[1] It was in fact some of these plates which Asobi and Suijin would look to as influence and inspiration from besides the Hinagata Bon (Sample Books) of tailors and Komin like Moronobu and Hanbeis dress manuals.[2][3]

Ando Bijin (c1700-1720, PD) Kaigetsudo Ando

Ando's Bijin-ga draws the time honoured classic of 'this isnt porn, its ART', which Matabei and Moronobu would have rejected completely. Instead, Ando draws upon the idea that Bijin-ga comes from the fine world of Fuzokuga and Buddhist Yamato-E, which eventually became adapted into the Kanbun Bijin (of 'dancers', basically Kabuki actors) by 1666, and which was developed by the Komin in the 1680s into the Kabuki Bijin-ga genre.

This 'respectable' genre was by Andos time heavily intertwined with the Torii school, which defined the style of Kabuki signboards as being those broad brushstrokes still popular today as part of Japanese calligraphy you can often see. This influence is clear in Andos broad stroke lines which dip and rivet in a free flowing manner. The posture of the figure is also reminiscient of the Qiyun quality which Matabei may have approved of in its lifelike mannerisms in the body language.

Features such as Hidden napes and hands saw that Napedness had gone out of the window. Instead 'traditional values' were in vogue, with Andos faces particularly reminiscient of the Yamato-E style of the Emakimono ( Scroll painting object | 絵巻物) in the Onna-E ( women pictures | 女絵 ) style. This style is defined in the lack of recognisable facial characteristics, instead expecting its viewer to focus on the body and subsqeuent attachements rather than the face to evoke a mood and to tell the story Ando would have trying to tell here.[8]

This can be seen in the evocative and interesting way Kimono is used here to tell a story, through the expensive dyes and paints used, the saucy hints of Benibana and subdued floral motifs. The image at face value is meant to leave under a traditional reading the impression of a women who looks over their shoulder, away from the viewer in the typically Buddhist portrayal of figures as being otherworldly saintlike figures who deem mortals as unfit of their gaze. A fascinating two-dimensional flatness particular to the lack of understanding of spacial composition which was to come with Rangaku later that century.

The person themselves here is using the now classic S-silhouette, and displays what may be earmarked as 'traditional' dress here in the styling and omittance of certain details and reliance of a knowledge of fine Japanese arts to complete the picture in the mind of a respectable Bakufu official. However we can see how Ando has cornered the market on his salacious Bijin-ga balancing act. Ando has revealed instead the foot, single hand and hair strands of his model; a Courtesan. She is revealed in her station by these facts, as as a lady of the night, she would have no need for shoes as she would be confined to the pleasure district she laboured in, but would also require befittingly attractive and rich Kimono in order to be able to work successfully.

The Broadstroke Bijin

Contexutally therefore we can see how Ando mixes traditional, or rather appropriately conservative values upon his images, but also successfully comes to allow small glimpses which was the backbone of the Iki Bijin. His models would showcase the latest fashionable Kimono, whilst keeping a series of checks and balances within the established cannon of acceptable art sources under the beauty standards and official judgements of his day. We can also see how in the development of the portrayal of Bijin-ga, Kabuki and sex work continues to influence the Ukiyo-ga world, when we see how the Torii broad stroke style has been transferred by Ando into a purely aesthetical image, fit for public consumption under the sumptuary and regulatory laws of Andos day. Andos images reflect the social morae of the era, a sort of belle epoque for his Kabuki inspired beauties, most of whom dabbled in sex work and yet simultaneously whom had to play the Iki modesty game.

Bibliography

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaigetsud%C5%8D_Ando

[2] See the Bijin Timeline

[3] See The Artisans and Hishikawa Moronobu in Essay #8

[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ejima-Ikushima_affair

[5] See Bijin #3

[6] https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/plea/hd_plea.htm

[7]  Youtube (2021), 'Life of a Wakashu, Japan’s Third Gender (Male-Male Romance in Edo Japan)', Linfamy, Available at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzG4UOaGy7M 

[8] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emakimono#Court_style:_onna-e

Bijin Series Timeline

11th century BCE

- The Ruqun becomes a formal garment in China (1000 BCE) [Coming Soon]

8th century BCE

- Chinese clothing becomes highly hierarchical (771 BCE) [Coming Soon]

0000 Current Era

7th century

Asuka Bijin (from 600) [Coming Soon]

8th century

- Introduction of Chinese Tang Dynasty clothing (710)

- Sumizuri-e (710)

- Classical Chinese Art ; Zhou Fang (active 766-805) ; Qiyun Bijin

- Emakimono Golden Age (799-1400)

15th century 

- Fuzokuga Painting schools; Kano (1450-1868) and Tosa (1330-1690) 

- Machi- Eshi painters; 1336-1650? [Coming Soon] 

16 century 

- Nanbanjin Art (1550-1630) 

- Wamono style begins under Chanoyu teachings (c1550-1580)

- Byobu Screens (1580-1670)

 - End of Sengoku Jidai brings Stabilisation policy (1590-1615)  

17th century  

- Land to Currency based Economy Shift (1601-1655)

- Early Kabuki Culture (1603-1673) ; Yakusha-e or Actor Prints

- Sumptuary legislation in reaction to the wealth of the merchant classes (1604-1685) 

- Regulation of export and imports of foreign trade in silk and cotton (1615-1685)  

Iwasa Matabei (active 1617-1650) ; Yamato-e Bijin  

The Hikone Screen (c.1624-1644) [Coming Soon]

- Sankin-Kotai (1635-1642) creates mass Urbanisation  

- Popular culture and print media production moves from Kyoto to Edo (1635-1650); Kiyohara Yukinobu (1650-1682) ; Manji Classical Beauty

- Shikomi-e (1650-1670) and Kakemono-e which promote Androgynous Beauties;

 Iwasa Katsushige (active 1650-1673) ; Kojin Bijin

- Mass Urbanisation instigates the rise of Chonin Cottage Industry Printing (1660-1690) ; rise of the Kabunakama Guilds and decline of the Samurai

- Kanazoshi Books (1660-1700); Koshokubon Genre (1659?-1661)

- Shunga (1660-1722); Abuna-e

Kanbun Master/School (active during 1661-1673) ; Maiko Bijin 

- Hinagata Bon (1666 - 1850) 

- Ukiyo Monogatari is published by Asai Ryoi (1666) 

Yoshida Hanbei (active 1664-1689) ; Toned-Down Bijin

- Asobi/Suijin Dress Manuals (1660-1700)

- Ukiyo-e Art (1670-1900)

Hishikawa Moronobu (active 1672-1694) ; Wakashu Bijin

- Early Bijin-ga begin to appear as Kakemono (c.1672)  

- The transit point from Kosode to modern Kimono (1680); Furisode, Wider Obi 

- The Genroku Osaka Bijin (1680 - 1700) ; Yuezen Hiinakata

Sugimura Jihei (active 1681-1703) ; Technicolour Bijin 

- The Amorous Tales are published by Ihara Saikaku (1682-1687)

Hishikawa Morofusa (active 1684-1704) [Coming Soon]

- The Beginning of the Genroku Era (1688-1704)

- The rise of the Komin and Yuujo as mainstream popular culture (1688-1880) 

- The consolidation of the Bijinga genre as mainstream pop culture 

- The rise of the Torii school (1688-1799) 

- Tan-E (1688-1710)   

Miyazaki Yuzen (active 1688-1736) ; Genroku Komin and Wamono Bijin 

Torii Kiyonobu (active 1688 - 1729) : Commercial Bijin

Furuyama Moromasa (active 1695-1748)

18th century

Nishikawa Sukenobu (active 1700-1750) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Ando (active 1700-1736) ; Broadstroke Bijin

Okumura Masanobu (active 1701-1764)

Kaigetsudo Doshin (active 1704-1716) [Coming Soon]

Baioken Eishun (active 1710-1755) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Anchi (active 1714-1716) [Coming Soon]

1717 Kyoho Reforms

Miyagawa Choshun (active 1718-1753) [Coming Soon]

Miyagawa Issho (active 1718-1780) [Coming Soon]

Nishimura Shigenaga (active 1719-1756) [Coming Soon]

Matsuno Chikanobu (active 1720-1729) [Coming Soon]

- Beni-E (1720-1743)

Torii Kiyonobu II (active 1725-1760) [Coming Soon]

- Uki-E (1735-1760)

Kawamata Tsuneyuki (active 1736-1744) [Coming Soon]

Miyagawa Shunsui (active from 1740-1769) [Coming Soon]

Benizuri-E (1744-1760)

Ishikawa Toyonobu (active 1745-1785) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Settei (active 1753-1787) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1756-1787) [Coming Soon]

Shunsho Katsukawa (active 1760-1793) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyoharu (active 1763-1814) [Coming Soon]

Suzuki Harunobu (active 1764-1770) [Coming Soon]

- Nishiki-E (1765-1850)

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1765-1815) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (active 1765-1820) [Coming Soon]

Maruyama Okyo (active 1766-1795) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Utamaro (active 1770-1806) [Coming Soon]

Kubo Shunman (active 1774-1820) [Coming Soon]

Tsutaya Juzaburo (active 1774-1797) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunimasa (active from 1780-1810) [Coming Soon]

Tanehiko Takitei (active 1783-1842) [Coming Soon]

Katsukawa Shuncho (active 1783-1795) [Coming Soon]

Choubunsai Eishi (active 1784-1829) [Coming Soon]

Eishosai Choki (active 1786-1808) [Coming Soon]

Rekisentei Eiri (active 1789-1801) [Coming Soon] [https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ukiyo-e_paintings#/media/File:Rekisentei_Eiri_-_'800),_Beauty_in_a_White_Kimono',_c._1800.jpg]

Chokosai Eisho (active 1792-1799) [Coming Soon]

Kunimaru Utagawa (active 1794-1829) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyokuni II (active 1794 - 1835) [Coming Soon]

Ryūryūkyo Shinsai (active 1799-1823) [Coming Soon]

19th century

Teisai Hokuba (active 1800-1844) [Coming Soon]

Totoya Hokkei (active 1800-1850) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada Toyokuni III (active 1800-1865) [Coming Soon]

Urakusai Nagahide (active from 1804) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Tsukimaro (active 1804 - 1836)

Kikukawa Eizan (active 1806-1867) [Coming Soon]

Keisai Eisen (active 1808-1848) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kuniyoshi (active 1810-1861) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Hiroshige (active 1811-1858) [Coming Soon]

Yanagawa Shigenobu (active 1818-1832) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada II (active 1844-1880) [Coming Soon]

Toyohara Kunichika (active 1847-1900) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Yoshitoshi (active 1850-1892) [Coming Soon]

Toyohara Chikanobu (active 1875-1912) [Coming Soon]

Kiyokata Kaburaki (active 1891-1972) [Coming Soon]

Goyo Hashiguchi (active 1899-1921) [Coming Soon]

20th century

Yumeji Takehisa (active 1905-1934) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kotondo (active 1915-1976) [Coming Soon]

Yamakawa Shūhō (active 1927-1944) [Coming Soon]

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