Asagao is a motif, often repeating pattern which can be placed sporadically across Kimono or is sometimes seen adorning a trellis or trailing pattern. Clusters in spots are also popular and most appear on Yukata, as the flower is most popular between July and September in Japan. 'Asagao' crudely translates as 'Morning Face' and is a metaphor for the beauty found in the morning glow of the Bijin, particularly young women.[1] It is thought wise by etiquette standards though that the pattern may be worn only in July and August when the bloom is budding.[2]
The flower became imported into Japan during the Nara period (710-794AD) by Chinese diplomats to Japan and used for its medicinal properties to treat the runs.[1][2] This is evident by the celebrated nature of Asagao in Chapter 20 of the Genji, which celebrates Princess Asagao, the one Genji didn't get to bone because she tells him to do one, either way Genji turns up at her house and immediately has a harem around him, including Prince Shikibu *wink wink nudge nudge* and some MILFS. Asagao Hime though is like, nah go bone with Shikibu, not me. Genji then "sends her emo poetry" and goes to bed a grumpy umpus. Seeing Asagoas lovely dewlight face in the morning sun, reminded him of the beauty of mornings in her face. Genji then goes off and tries to shags a bunch of MILFs and Murasaki. Then it snows and they all make snowmen with the servants becuase Snowmen wont make themselves of course.[3] Blah blah ephemerality bleep bleep beauty of transience bloop bloop.
Asagao gained popularity by the 17th century when they began to be grown in greater numbers, when the pattern during this time transferred well into ornamental design and became used on Uchiwa (団扇 | rounded square hand-fans), Tenugui (手拭い | printed hand towels), Combs and Kosode designs.[2] The pattern remains popular today in Yukata particularly being a trend worn often in deep or bright colours by Gyaru in the late 2000's that I remember from Japanese street photography.
Bibliography
[1] https://kokoro-jp.com/culture/2460/
[2] https://int.kateigaho.com/articles/tradition/patterns-19/
[3] https://mostbeautifulgenji.tumblr.com/post/80568794417/chapter-20-the-morning-glory
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