Shuri Brocade is a fabric which is made in the lowermost points of Okinawa. The two main types of Shuri are Kasuri and Mon Orimono. Shuri refers to a weave type and is mostly describing a mixture of different strenght materials made on the same island made from silk, cotton, hemp or banana fibre which are affected in design by the Islands climate at the time of harvest or weaving. All Shuri weaving is done by hand. First a traditional design is chosen, then Itokuri ( 糸繰 | Thread Winding ) occurs where threads are sized, starched and spun. Warping then produces the Tanmono, with Kasuri Kukuri (Warp-tying) is done on the loom to create the design outline, first warp and then weft. Dyed in a vat of usually traditional plant dyes and woven on a Takahata loom, up to 30 cm a day and then washed and dried.[1]
Historically this fabric made have been traded with China and Korea since the 14th century when the Ryukyu kingdom began exporting en masse. The royal family there used only Hanakuri or Doton Ori weaves. It can also be regarded as Kasuri and is though to have helped influence some Japanese traditions with regards to Kasuri. During WWII a lot of the workmanship and equipment used to make the fabric was lost, making it a heritage craft.[1]
Bibliography
[1] https://kogeijapan.com/locale/en_US/shuriori/
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