Kesa are a type of Buddhist monks Kasaya ( robes | Kesa | 袈裟 ) which in Japan are usually orange, black or navy.[1] Wandering monks however, have on another Mantle layer which often uses a pattern which at times resembles rows of quilting in the West. The number increases depending on the rank of the monk from 5-25. The use of Kesa ranges from simply to keep warm, to befittingly expensive textile art used to express complex meaning related to Buddhist teaching. It is said the geometric squares and their simple layout represent the ability of all beings to be liberated from dukkha in evoking the geometric placement of Mandala (see Bhavacakra).[3][4] It is said these 4 corner squares represent the Shi-Tenno ( 4 Heavenly Kings | 四天王 ) who run the Buddhist cosmos.[3]
Historically Buddhism came to Japan around 552 CE.[2] Kasaya were worn at this time, and in the Heian period due to the Japanese climate, Kesa began to be worn. These were made from dark cloth to mark the movement away from domestic into monastic life and made using rags and natural dyes made from plants. Down the centuries, Kesa became known as Buddhist garments, and became more elaborate, evidenced by the gold brocade used to make Edo period (1615-1868) Kesa donated by leading Chonin and other elites.[3] Kesa continue to be worn today as what is effectively a Monks uniform entry into the world of Buddhism.
#11 will be Kara-ori.
Bibliography
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kasaya_(clothing)
[2] https://asiasociety.org/education/buddhism-japan#:~:text=Traveling%20along%20this%20route%2C%20Mahayana,several%20volumes%20of%20Buddhist%20text)
[3] https://www.buddhistdoor.net/features/kesa-robes-of-patched-perfection
[4] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bhavacakra
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