The Higaki/Ajiro ( without-net ) pattern is a geometric series of tilted rectangles layed out like a paved path. Supposedly, the pattern is meant to allude to a fence, or basket-weave made from Hinoki ( Cypress | 檜 ), a common Japanese wood which is easily pliable, and is found on most a large range of Japanese textiles, popularly on wide Obi belts.[1][2] Higaki commonly refers to the Cryptomeria Cypress fence weave, Ajiro to the bamboo or wicker basket weave used originally in fishing baskets.[5][6] Ajiro weave is often reflective of the symbolism held by cypress wood, such as divine protection/purity, good health, longevity and good luck.
Hinoki wood came to prominence as aesthetically favoured under the Roju Hideyoshi (1537-1598) who sourced the wood from Kiso valley for his castles. At the time, the wood was considered highly valuable, and was associated with purity for its soft colours compared to darker grain patterns.[4] Ajiro weave is also commonly used in traditional woven Chaya ( Teahouses | 茶屋 ) design in Chashitsu ( Tea room | 茶室) and garden fences.[6] Hideyoshi helped popularise Chanoyu ( Tea Ceremony | 茶の湯), as seen in his elaborate portable Golden Tea Room ( Ōgon no chashitsu | 黄金の茶室) made from Gold, Cypress, Bamboo and silk.[7] Popular Aesthetics at this time pushed Wamono ( Japanese-style-things | 和物), which to the tea master Sen no Rikyu ( 千利休 | 1522-1591) in Chanoyu was Wabi-cha ( Forlorn-tea | 侘茶 ), a style which promoted simplicity.[8][9] This picked up on uniquely Japanese crafts like Hinoki weaving for its simple weave and use as a divine wood in Shinto architecture, and incorporated into Wabi-cha Chashitsu design. It is highly likely the design therefore became associated with the tea ceremony after the late Azuchi-Momoyama epoch (1568-1600) as a symbol of Japanese prosperity and luck, and worn on Kimono to celebrate Hinoki's symbolic transcendental omens.
The pattern may have seen a surge in popularity when Kokutai rose to prominence once again for its noticeably 'Japanese' origins in the rejection of Chinese aesthetic values of Wabi-cha, in a time which by the 1860's-1890s was more-so encouraging of Japanese nationalism on the home islands. Higaki by the early 20th century was therefore considered auspicious and worn by Geisha in their performances.[3] The pattern is still commonly found today in many vintage Fukuro Obi, and is supposedly a popular pattern for use on white base Kimono.
Patterns #10 will be on Kesa.
Bibliography
[1] https://int.kateigaho.com/articles/tradition/patterns-13/
[2] https://www.wafuku.co.uk/glossary
[3] https://kelownaartgallery.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Geisha-to-Diva-Exhibition-Guide-official-1.pdf
[4] https://bartokdesign.com/wood/the-king-of-trees-hinoki.php
[5] https://polinacouture.com/en/the-meaning-of-patterns-on-japanese-fabrics/#diagonal-fence-higaki-or-ajiro
[6] https://www.aisf.or.jp/~jaanus/deta/a/ajiro.htm
[7] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_Tea_Room
[8] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_bamboo_weaving
[9] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wabi-cha
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