Her Haughtynesses Decree

Sunday, February 5, 2023

襦裙美 | Ruqun Mei | Upper-Lower Dress Beauty (Standards) | Bijin #18

The Ruqun refers to the application standards of tailored clothing which were informed by the traditional standard of beauty in the Han Dynasty (220BCE-25CE). Ruqun comes in many types, differing in recorded history and art over the Sui and Tang dynasty (581-907CE) quite drastically to their predecessor types which became the Qixong Ruqun. These kinds of styles returned to the Hanfu styles by the end of the Tang, and it is mostly Wei dynasty (386-535CE) Hanfu which made their way through Korea to Japan by the 6th century rather than directly through things like trade with China, as Japanese lords declined to trade directly due to the issue of being a dignitary state to China, adopting them through the Nara period (710-794CE) in a move towards contemporary regional geosocial power politics.

Tang Bijin Mural Figure (c.800, PD) Anonymous

In the classical period these clothing pieces consisted of the Yi, Chang and Bixi. The Yi was a tunic with small sleeve openings. The Chang was a skirt worn over the Yi, secured with a sash. The Bixi was a skirt that would be worn over the Chang. The origin of the Ruqun originated in the Shang Dynasty (1600-1045BCE), putting a solid date for the origin of this type of skirt and long sleeve combo of clothing around 1045 BCE. During the Shang dynasty 'Chinese' dress was established as Yi-Chang combination which was unisex attire. During the Zhou Dynasty (1046-256BCE), the Chang became knee length and jackets became popular. By SAP (770-403BCE), the Shenyi combined them together to make one garment, which had exaggerated sleeves which hide the hands inside the sleeve.

Shang Dignitary Figure (c.1045BCE, PD) Daderot
Han Dynasty Funeral Figure (c.25 CE, PD) Anonymous

These styles continued as such in the Han Dynasty, becoming the standardised attire of Hanfu. During the Han Dynasty the sash which closed the Yi-Chang worn by the common folk was heavily decorated and coloured and sometimes as a set, a sort of Obi nod I like to think. Beginning in Wei, the Duijin (straight garment collar) began. By Wei, the Ruqun-Paofu style spread to Goguryeo (37 - 600CE) and then Japan by the Asuka period (538-710CE). As time went by, these Hanfu became more elaborate visually expressing how wealthy their owner was in their details and the amount of fabrics used, widening the sleeves and lengths of the skirts like the earlier Swallowtail style (See Guiyi/Kaizhi). These details are what influenced the development of ideas in a majority of East Asian countries, explaining for example why Kosode sleeves were closed to only allow the hand through. 

Tomb Art (c.250CE, PD) Gary Todd
Southern Dynasty Figurine with Duijin Eri (c.500-589CE, PD) Gary Todd

Asuka Bijin Mural, likely Goguryeo Tomb (c.550-600, PD) Bijutsu Shihan 

Empress Suiko (d.638, PD?) Anonymous

By the Sui, men stopped wearing Chang instead wearing lone Yi and Kuzi. Between the NSD and the Six Dynasties, women began wearing the Qizong Ruqun style of high waistline Chang famous in the work of Zhou Fang. It was during this time that tits began to fly freely, perhaps setting the trend for allowing the Nippon laws to say that all tits may fly freely, both the whole tit and some cleavage. By the middle of Tang, tits flew less freely and plumpness was the new it figure. Tang culture was highly regarded by those in power in Japan who based their capital structures on Chinese models, such as the court at Nara and Kyoto. During the Heian period access to China was cut off, consolidating conceptual Wamono to flourish in the vacuum by 1000 AD.[1][2]

Conclusion

In context we see how the Paofu format evolved from 1000BCE to 1000CE filtering into Japanese KTC. During the Shang Dynasty the Ruqun style was first documented, becoming under the Zhou kingdom the Shengyin or one wrap-robe style which famously hides the hands and denoted high status. These styles persisted as traditional fashion into the Han Dynasty when they became particularly ornate garments. These styles spread to the Wei lands, where they became the ornate garment collars relative to the modern Eri. These spread to the Southern/Liu Song Dynasty lands which went onto Goguryeo whose traders brought their culture to Japan by the 5th century introducing arts like fashion, silk-weaving, bead and metalwork as well as Buddhism to Japan.[3] Japanese beauty standards may therefore be consideredinfluenced by wider regional beauty standards, particularly Southern and Tang culture when and where it made its way to Japan until the end of Continental trade with Korea.

Bibliography

[1] http://www.historyofclothing.com/clothing-history/hanfu/#:~:text=Hanfu%20appeared%20in%20China%20more,Dynasty%2C%20from%201600BC%20to%201000BC.

[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruqun

[3] https://www.degruyter.com/document/doi/10.1515/9780824861391-014/html

 Bijin Series Timeline

11th century BCE

- The Ruqun becomes a formal garment in China (1045 BCE) 

8th century BCE

- Chinese clothing becomes highly hierarchical (771 BCE) 

3rd century BCE

Xi Shi (flourished c201-900CE); The Drunken Lotus Bijin

2cnd century BCE

        - The Han Dynasty

0000 Current Era

0 century

        - First Japan-China Relations established (57)

1st century

        - Han Tomb portraiture begins as an extension of Confucian Ancestor Worship; first Han aesthetic                                scholars dictate how East Asian composition and art ethics begin

                       - Isometric becomes the standard for East Asian Composition (c.100); Dahuting Tomb Murals

                       - Ban Zhao introduces Imperial Court to her Lessons for Women (c106);                                      Women play major roles in the powerplay of running of China consistently  until 1000 CE, influencing Beauty standards [Coming Soon]

                       - Qiyun Shengdong begins to make figures more plump and Bijin-like (c.150) but still pious

4th century

Gu Kaizhi (active 364-406); Metaphorical Beauty

          - Chinese Artists begin to make aesthetic beauties in ethereal religious roles of heavenly Nymphs

                       - Luo River Nymph Tale (c.400)

            - Womens clothing emphasized the waist as the Guiyi (Swallow-Tail Flying Ribbons) style again

                       - Wise and Benevolent Women (c.400)

            - Ruqun styles spread to Goguryeo via the Eastern Jin Dynasty into Japan (c.450); Mei-to-Bijin

5th century

          - Chinese Art becomes decadent; Imperial Culture begins to see more expression in religious statues (c450)

                       - Longmen Grotto Boddhisattvas (471)

6th century

           - Women begin inspiring Pining Love poetry inspiring many artists

Xu Ling; (active 537-583); Gongti or Palace Bijin [Coming Soon] https://www.jstor.org/stable/495525?seq=2#metadata_info_tab_contents

Empress Suiko (active 6th century); [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Empress_Suiko_painting.png

7th century

            - Tang Dynasty Art (618-908)

           - Rouged Bijin (600-699 CE) [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty

Yan Liben (active 642-673); Bodhisattva Bijin [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A1.jpg   See Guan Yin

Wu Zetian (active 665-705); The Great Tang Art Patron [Coming Soon]

Asuka Bijin (c.699); The Wa Bijin

8th century

            - Princess Yongtai's Veneration Murals (701) [Coming Soon]

- Introduction of Chinese Tang Dynasty clothing (710)

- Sumizuri-e (710)

Yang Yuhuan Guifei (719-756); [Coming Soon] East Asian Supermodel Bijin https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/275768522.pdf https://factsanddetails.com/china/cat2/4sub9/entry-5437.html#chapter-5

Zhang Xuan (active 720-755); [Coming Soon]

- What is now Classical Chinese Art forms

                    - An Lushun Rebellion (757) 

 Zhou Fang (active 766-805) ; Qiyun Bijin

- Emakimono Golden Age (799-1400)

9th century

                       - Buddhist Bijin [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty#/media/File:Noble_Ladies_Worshiping_Buddha.jpg + https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mogao_Caves#/media/File:Anonymous-Bodhisattva_Leading_the_Way.jpg

10th century

                       -End of Tang Art (907)

13th century

                     - Heimin painters; 1200-1850; Town Beauty

15th century 

- Fuzokuga Painting schools; Kano (1450-1868) and Tosa (1330-1690) 

Tang Yin (active 1490-1524); Chinese Beauties [Coming Soon] https://www.comuseum.com/painting/masters/tang-yin/ 

16 century 

Ono Otsu (active c.1580-1631) [Coming Soon] | https://www.jstor.org/stable/25790976?seq=5 | https://gtr.ukri.org/projects?ref=studentship-2273921#/tabOverview | https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/784981

- Nanbanjin Art (1550-1630) 

- Wamono style begins under Chanoyu teachings (c1550-1580)

- Byobu Screens (1580-1670)

 - End of Sengoku Jidai brings Stabilisation policy (1590-1615) 

17th century  

- Land to Currency based Economy Shift (1601-1655)

- Early Kabuki Culture (1603-1673) ; Yakusha-e or Actor Prints

- Machi-Eshi Art ( 1610 - 1710) ; The Town Beauty

- Sumptuary legislation in reaction to the wealth of the merchant classes (1604-1685) 

- Regulation of export and imports of foreign trade in silk and cotton (1615-1685)  

Iwasa Matabei (active 1617-1650) ; Yamato-e Bijin  

The Hikone Screen (c.1624-1644) [Coming Soon]

- Sankin-Kotai (1635-1642) creates mass Urbanisation  

- Popular culture and print media production moves from Kyoto to Edo (1635-1650); Kiyohara Yukinobu (1650-1682) ; Manji Classical Beauty

- Shikomi-e (1650-1670) and Kakemono-e which promote Androgynous Beauties;

 Iwasa Katsushige (active 1650-1673) ; Kojin Bijin

- Mass Urbanisation instigates the rise of Chonin Cottage Industry Printing (1660-1690) ; rise of the Kabunakama Guilds and decline of the Samurai

- Kanazoshi Books (1660-1700); Koshokubon Genre (1659?-1661)

- Shunga (1660-1722); Abuna-e

Kanbun Master/School (active during 1661-1673) ; Maiko Bijin 

- Hinagata Bon (1666 - 1850) 

- Ukiyo Monogatari is published by Asai Ryoi (1666) 

Yoshida Hanbei (active 1664-1689) ; Toned-Down Bijin

- Asobi/Suijin Dress Manuals (1660-1700)

- Ukiyo-e Art (1670-1900)

Hishikawa Moronobu (active 1672-1694) ; Wakashu Bijin

- Early Bijin-ga begin to appear as Kakemono (c.1672)  

- Rise of the Komin-Chonin Relationship (1675-1725)

- The transit point from Kosode to modern Kimono (1680); Furisode, Wider Obi 

- The Genroku Osaka Bijin (1680 - 1700) ; Yuezen Hiinakata

Sugimura Jihei (active 1681-1703) ; Technicolour Bijin 

- The Amorous Tales are published by Ihara Saikaku (1682-1687)

Hishikawa Morofusa (active 1684-1704) [Coming Soon]

- The Beginning of the Genroku Era (1688-1704)

- The rise of the Komin and Yuujo as mainstream popular culture (1688-1880) 

- The consolidation of the Bijinga genre as mainstream pop culture 

- The rise of the Torii school (1688-1799) 

- Tan-E (1688-1710)   

Miyazaki Yuzen (active 1688-1736) ; Genroku Komin and Wamono Bijin 

Torii Kiyonobu (active 1688 - 1729) : Commercial Bijin

Furuyama Moromasa (active 1695-1748)

18th century

Nishikawa Sukenobu (active 1700-1750) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Ando (active 1700-1736) ; Broadstroke Bijin

Okumura Masanobu (active 1701-1764)

Kaigetsudo Doshin (active 1704-1716) [Coming Soon]

Baioken Eishun (active 1710-1755) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Anchi (active 1714-1716) [Coming Soon]

Yamazaki Joryu (active 1716-1744) [Coming Soon]

1717 Kyoho Reforms

Miyagawa Choshun (active 1718-1753) [Coming Soon]

Miyagawa Issho (active 1718-1780) [Coming Soon]

Nishimura Shigenaga (active 1719-1756) [Coming Soon]

Matsuno Chikanobu (active 1720-1729) [Coming Soon]

- Beni-E (1720-1743)

Torii Kiyonobu II (active 1725-1760) [Coming Soon]

- Uki-E (1735-1760)

Kawamata Tsuneyuki (active 1736-1744) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (1739-1820)

Miyagawa Shunsui (active from 1740-1769) [Coming Soon]

Benizuri-E (1744-1760)

Ishikawa Toyonobu (active 1745-1785) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Settei (active 1753-1787) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1756-1787) [Coming Soon]

Shunsho Katsukawa (active 1760-1793) [Coming Soon]

Tadaoka Michiko 忠岡三千子 (active 1760-1799) [Coming Soon] https://yuagariart.com/uag/miyagi05/ 

Utagawa Toyoharu (active 1763-1814) [Coming Soon]

Suzuki Harunobu (active 1764-1770) [Coming Soon]

- Nishiki-E (1765-1850)

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1765-1815) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (active 1765-1820) [Coming Soon]

Maruyama Okyo (active 1766-1795) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Utamaro (active 1770-1806) [Coming Soon]

Kubo Shunman (active 1774-1820) [Coming Soon]

Tsutaya Juzaburo (active 1774-1797) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunimasa (active from 1780-1810) [Coming Soon]

Tanehiko Takitei (active 1783-1842) [Coming Soon]

Katsukawa Shuncho (active 1783-1795) [Coming Soon]

Choubunsai Eishi (active 1784-1829) [Coming Soon]

Eishosai Choki (active 1786-1808) [Coming Soon]

Rekisentei Eiri (active 1789-1801) [Coming Soon] [https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ukiyo-e_paintings#/media/File:Rekisentei_Eiri_-_'800),_Beauty_in_a_White_Kimono',_c._1800.jpg]

Chokosai Eisho (active 1792-1799) [Coming Soon]

Kunimaru Utagawa (active 1794-1829) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyokuni II (active 1794 - 1835) [Coming Soon]

Ryūryūkyo Shinsai (active 1799-1823) [Coming Soon]

19th century

Teisai Hokuba (active 1800-1844) [Coming Soon]

Totoya Hokkei (active 1800-1850) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada Toyokuni III (active 1800-1865) [Coming Soon]

Urakusai Nagahide (active from 1804) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Tsukimaro (active 1804 - 1836)

Kikukawa Eizan (active 1806-1867) [Coming Soon]

Keisai Eisen (active 1808-1848) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kuniyoshi (active 1810-1861) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Hiroshige (active 1811-1858) [Coming Soon]

Yanagawa Shigenobu (active 1818-1832) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada II (active 1844-1880) [Coming Soon]

Toyohara Kunichika (active 1847-1900) [Coming Soon]

Kano Hogai (active 1848-1888) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Yoshitoshi (active 1850-1892) [Coming Soon]

Toyohara Chikanobu (active 1875-1912) [Coming Soon]

Kawanabe Kyosui (active 1891-1935) [Coming Soon]

Kiyokata Kaburaki (active 1891-1972) [Coming Soon]

Goyo Hashiguchi (active 1899-1921) [Coming Soon]

20th century

Yumeji Takehisa (active 1905-1934) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kotondo (active 1915-1976) [Coming Soon]

Yamakawa Shūhō (active 1927-1944) [Coming Soon]


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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw 

https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/  Bijin Series Timeline

11th century BCE

- The Ruqun becomes a formal garment in China (1000 BCE) [Coming Soon]

8th century BCE

- Chinese clothing becomes highly hierarchical (771 BCE) [Coming Soon] 

3rd century BCE

Xi Shi (flourished c201-900CE); The Drunken Lotus Bijin

2cnd century BCE

        - The Han Dynasty

0000 Current Era

1st century

        - Han Tomb portraiture begins as an extension of Confucian Ancestor Worship; first Han aesthetic                                scholars dictate how East Asian composition and art ethics begin

                       - Isometric becomes the standard for East Asian Composition (c.100); Dahuting Tomb Murals

                       - Ban Zhao introduces Imperial Court to her Lessons for Women (c106);                                      Women play major roles in the powerplay of running of China consistently                                until 1000 CE, influencing Beauty standards

                       - Qiyun Shengdong begins to make figures more plump and Bijin-like (c.150) but still pious

4th century

Gu Kaizhi (active 364-406); Metaphorical Beauty

        - Chinese Artists begin to make aesthetic beauties in ethereal religious roles of heavenly Nymphs

                       - Luo River Nymph Tale (c.400)

          - Womens clothing emphasized the waist as the Guiyi (Swallow-Tail Flying Ribbons) style (c.400)

                       - Wise and Benevolent Women (c.400)

5th century

          - Chinese Art becomes decadent; Imperial Culture begins to see more expression in religious statues (c450)

                       - Longmen Grotto Boddhisattvas (471)

6th century

           - Women begin inspiring Pining Love poetry inspiring many artists

Xu Ling; (active 537-583); Gongti or Palace Bijin [Coming Soon] https://www.jstor.org/stable/495525?seq=2#metadata_info_tab_contents

7th century

            - Tang Dynasty Art (618-908)

           - Rouged Bijin (600-699 CE) [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty

Yan Liben (active 642-673); Bodhisattva Bijin [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A1.jpg Guan Yin 

Wu Zetian (active 665-705); The Great Tang Art Patron [Coming Soon]

Asuka Bijin (c.699); The Wa Bijin

8th century

            - Princess Yongtai's Veneration Murals (701) [Coming Soon]

- Introduction of Chinese Tang Dynasty clothing (710)

- Sumizuri-e (710)

Yang Yuhuan Guifei (719-756); [Coming Soon] East Asian Supermodel Bijin https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/275768522.pdf https://factsanddetails.com/china/cat2/4sub9/entry-5437.html#chapter-5

Zhang Xuan (active 720-755); [Coming Soon]

- What is now Classical Chinese Art forms

                    - An Lushun Rebellion (757) 

 Zhou Fang (active 766-805) ; Qiyun Bijin

- Emakimono Golden Age (799-1400)

9th century

                       - Buddhist Bijin [Coming Soon] https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty#/media/File:Noble_Ladies_Worshiping_Buddha.jpg + https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mogao_Caves#/media/File:Anonymous-Bodhisattva_Leading_the_Way.jpg

10th century

                       -End of Tang Art (907)

13th century

                     - Heimin painters; 1200-1850; Town Beauty

15th century 

- Fuzokuga Painting schools; Kano (1450-1868) and Tosa (1330-1690) 

Tang Yin (active 1490-1524); Chinese Beauties [Coming Soon] https://www.comuseum.com/painting/masters/tang-yin/ 

16 century 

- Nanbanjin Art (1550-1630) 

- Wamono style begins under Chanoyu teachings (c1550-1580)

- Byobu Screens (1580-1670)

 - End of Sengoku Jidai brings Stabilisation policy (1590-1615)  

17th century  

- Land to Currency based Economy Shift (1601-1655)

- Early Kabuki Culture (1603-1673) ; Yakusha-e or Actor Prints

- Machi-Eshi Art ( 1610 - 1710) ; The Town Beauty

- Sumptuary legislation in reaction to the wealth of the merchant classes (1604-1685) 

- Regulation of export and imports of foreign trade in silk and cotton (1615-1685)  

Iwasa Matabei (active 1617-1650) ; Yamato-e Bijin  

The Hikone Screen (c.1624-1644) [Coming Soon]

- Sankin-Kotai (1635-1642) creates mass Urbanisation  

- Popular culture and print media production moves from Kyoto to Edo (1635-1650); Kiyohara Yukinobu (1650-1682) ; Manji Classical Beauty

- Shikomi-e (1650-1670) and Kakemono-e which promote Androgynous Beauties;

 Iwasa Katsushige (active 1650-1673) ; Kojin Bijin

- Mass Urbanisation instigates the rise of Chonin Cottage Industry Printing (1660-1690) ; rise of the Kabunakama Guilds and decline of the Samurai

- Kanazoshi Books (1660-1700); Koshokubon Genre (1659?-1661)

- Shunga (1660-1722); Abuna-e

Kanbun Master/School (active during 1661-1673) ; Maiko Bijin 

- Hinagata Bon (1666 - 1850) 

- Ukiyo Monogatari is published by Asai Ryoi (1666) 

Yoshida Hanbei (active 1664-1689) ; Toned-Down Bijin

- Asobi/Suijin Dress Manuals (1660-1700)

- Ukiyo-e Art (1670-1900)

Hishikawa Moronobu (active 1672-1694) ; Wakashu Bijin

- Early Bijin-ga begin to appear as Kakemono (c.1672)  

- Rise of the Komin-Chonin Relationship (1675-1725)

- The transit point from Kosode to modern Kimono (1680); Furisode, Wider Obi 

- The Genroku Osaka Bijin (1680 - 1700) ; Yuezen Hiinakata

Sugimura Jihei (active 1681-1703) ; Technicolour Bijin 

- The Amorous Tales are published by Ihara Saikaku (1682-1687)

Hishikawa Morofusa (active 1684-1704) [Coming Soon]

- The Beginning of the Genroku Era (1688-1704)

- The rise of the Komin and Yuujo as mainstream popular culture (1688-1880) 

- The consolidation of the Bijinga genre as mainstream pop culture 

- The rise of the Torii school (1688-1799) 

- Tan-E (1688-1710)   

Miyazaki Yuzen (active 1688-1736) ; Genroku Komin and Wamono Bijin 

Torii Kiyonobu (active 1688 - 1729) : Commercial Bijin

Furuyama Moromasa (active 1695-1748)

18th century

Nishikawa Sukenobu (active 1700-1750) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Ando (active 1700-1736) ; Broadstroke Bijin

Okumura Masanobu (active 1701-1764)

Kaigetsudo Doshin (active 1704-1716) [Coming Soon]

Baioken Eishun (active 1710-1755) [Coming Soon]

Kaigetsudo Anchi (active 1714-1716) [Coming Soon]

Yamazaki Joryu (active 1716-1744) [Coming Soon] | https://www.jstor.org/stable/25790976?seq=5

1717 Kyoho Reforms

Miyagawa Choshun (active 1718-1753) [Coming Soon]

Miyagawa Issho (active 1718-1780) [Coming Soon]

Nishimura Shigenaga (active 1719-1756) [Coming Soon]

Matsuno Chikanobu (active 1720-1729) [Coming Soon]

- Beni-E (1720-1743)

Torii Kiyonobu II (active 1725-1760) [Coming Soon]

- Uki-E (1735-1760)

Kawamata Tsuneyuki (active 1736-1744) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (1739-1820)

Miyagawa Shunsui (active from 1740-1769) [Coming Soon]

Benizuri-E (1744-1760)

Ishikawa Toyonobu (active 1745-1785) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Settei (active 1753-1787) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1756-1787) [Coming Soon]

Shunsho Katsukawa (active 1760-1793) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyoharu (active 1763-1814) [Coming Soon]

Suzuki Harunobu (active 1764-1770) [Coming Soon]

- Nishiki-E (1765-1850)

Torii Kiyonaga (active 1765-1815) [Coming Soon]

Kitao Shigemasa (active 1765-1820) [Coming Soon]

Maruyama Okyo (active 1766-1795) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Utamaro (active 1770-1806) [Coming Soon]

Kubo Shunman (active 1774-1820) [Coming Soon]

Tsutaya Juzaburo (active 1774-1797) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunimasa (active from 1780-1810) [Coming Soon]

Tanehiko Takitei (active 1783-1842) [Coming Soon]

Katsukawa Shuncho (active 1783-1795) [Coming Soon]

Choubunsai Eishi (active 1784-1829) [Coming Soon]

Eishosai Choki (active 1786-1808) [Coming Soon]

Rekisentei Eiri (active 1789-1801) [Coming Soon] [https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ukiyo-e_paintings#/media/File:Rekisentei_Eiri_-_'800),_Beauty_in_a_White_Kimono',_c._1800.jpg]

Sakurai Seppo (active 1790-1824) [Coming Soon]

Chokosai Eisho (active 1792-1799) [Coming Soon]

Kunimaru Utagawa (active 1794-1829) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Toyokuni II (active 1794 - 1835) [Coming Soon]

Ryūryūkyo Shinsai (active 1799-1823) [Coming Soon]

19th century

Teisai Hokuba (active 1800-1844) [Coming Soon]

Totoya Hokkei (active 1800-1850) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada Toyokuni III (active 1800-1865) [Coming Soon]

Urakusai Nagahide (active from 1804) [Coming Soon]

Kitagawa Tsukimaro (active 1804 - 1836)

Kikukawa Eizan (active 1806-1867) [Coming Soon]

Keisai Eisen (active 1808-1848) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kuniyoshi (active 1810-1861) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Hiroshige (active 1811-1858) [Coming Soon]

Yanagawa Shigenobu (active 1818-1832) [Coming Soon]

Katsushika Oi (active 1824-1866) [Coming Soon]

Hirai Renzan (active 1838ー?) [Coming Soon]

Utagawa Kunisada II (active 1844-1880) [Coming Soon]

Yamada Otokawa (active 1845) [Coming Soon] | 山田音羽子 https://www.jstor.org/stable/25790976?seq=10

Toyohara Kunichika (active 1847-1900) [Coming Soon]

Kano Hogai (active 1848-1888) [Coming Soon]

Tsukioka Yoshitoshi (active 1850-1892) [Coming Soon]

Noguchi Shohin (active c1860-1917) [Coming Soon]

Toyohara Chikanobu (active 1875-1912) [Coming Soon]

Uemura Shoen (active 1887-1949) [Coming Soon]

Kiyokata Kaburaki (active 1891-1972) [Coming Soon]

Goyo Hashiguchi (active 1899-1921) [Coming Soon]

20th century

Yumeji Takehisa (active 1905-1934) [Coming Soon]

Torii Kotondo (active 1915-1976) [Coming Soon]

Hisako Kajiwara (active 1918-1988) [Coming Soon] https://www.roningallery.com/artists/kajiwara-hisako | https://www.jstor.org/stable/25790976

Yamakawa Shūhō (active 1927-1944) [Coming Soon]


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Sunday, January 22, 2023

鹿の子絞り | Kanako Shibori | Shape-resistance Dye | Pattern #17

Kanoko Shibori is the most common type of Shibori. It is made up of thousands of tiny Doughnuts which decorate the surface of the Tanmono, which leave a kind of island and ocean between them of white and the dye. Shibori often refers to the dye design process of wring, squeeze and pressing fabric into a tight wound band design to make the Doughnut imprints and is created when the dye is completed.[5] Designs dictates what type of Shibori a Shibori is with Kanoko being the most easy to finish. It is said in Japan that the finish resembles 'the back of a fawn', and was born during the Heian period as a popular finish for women's textile designs.[1][4] 

Kyo-Kanoko Shibori (2022) Copyright of NHK Broadcasting

Historically, tie-dye or resist textiles are first found in Peru in 500AD, eventually making their way to the Middle East, China in Yunnan Province as Zha-ran and India as Bandhani, Nepal as Nambu Tiget, Indonesia as Plangti/Tritik and West Africa as Adire in conjunction with the beginning of indigo agriculture.[2][3] Shibori or 'shape resist textiles' began in the Asuka period (538-710 CE) when the rise of Indigo farming and continental dyed textiles were imported for the elites.[1][4] An example is found at the Shosoin repository dyed in Blue and now yellowed silk for Emperor Shoumu (701-756).[2] Local Japanese examples often used more early techniques like Kokechi which is box fold like design and Rokechi.[6]

During the Heian period, local artisans most likely working at Za were commissioned to make aristocratic women's clothes.[4] It was during this time that Kanoko Shibori was born.[4] At some point, Indigo began to be used by the Heimin to make Shibori designs for themselves, most likely during interactions between medieval Za and the common folk in the Heian (peaceful) period (794-1185). They may also have drawn inspiration from the Sashiko stitch, but both are my own hypothesis. Murasaki describes Genji surrounded by women dressed in Shibori dyed clothing for example.[6][8]
Certainly though after the Kamakura period (1185-1333), Shibori became incredibly popular as an acknowledgment of taste and wealth, but Heimin Shibori was done on Hemp Kosode and techniques passed down by family only.[2][5] This was most likely done becuase the period saw a lot of wars and infighting as local warlords began to take over greater swathes of land in Japan. This coupled with large populations made starvation and disease quite common at the time, exacerbating existing issues. Therefore whilst art kept calm and carried on, people had less money and patience for being flashy when their neighbours kept killing each other and so Shibori became a coveted skillset to make money to feed hungry mouths with, rathern than purely an aesthetic pursuit of trades guilds in the Muromachi/Warring States lull period (1336-1573).

Tsujigahana sample (c1573, PD) Xem Bolton

In the Momoyama period (1568-1600), Shibori began to be adopted as a fluid way for Machi-Shu Daimyo to involve local artisans again as a way to curry favour with wealthier art families.[7] Countryside Men or Kokujin began to gain power due to their socioeconomic position as the new lords who patronised local artisans networks after 1467 to build their local support bases. Momoyama specifically saw the increase in this Old v New Money (MachiShu v Kokujin) which ultimately resulted in the countryside So artisan networks which competed with Kyoto.[8] Shibori was taken up by Machi-Shu who paid Countryside artists to make Tsujigahana, a posh Shibori design, to create lavish textiles for banners, art and kosode.[9] 

Kyo Kanoko Shibori was most likely an invention of a Kyoto Za workshop around this time. Other individual artists or Machi-Eshi became celebrities of the new Urban centres by 1600 like Edo, today Tokyo in this postwar cultural melting pot of the So Jinja art market and Za commissions made for regional and by the 1580's, upper class Daimyo. A So example is the Kano school, a workshop type of hereditary group, and a Za is the imperial trade guilds of Kyoto or Chaya Shirojiro (1545-1596) model, a workshop for elites, by elites which was dying out in favour of the So model by the Kanei Era (1624-1644) due to Tokugawa Stabilisation policies.[8][10]

During the Edo period, the sumptuary laws prohibited having fun so the Chonin and Heimin could no longer wear some fabrics and designs like Silk.[2] In lieu of listening to the idiots like Iemitsu (1604-1651), people would redesign their old garments by redying them in Shibori, popularising Shibori as a design mechanism for aesthetics once more.[2][4] This replaced Tsujigahana with Kanoko Shibori as a fine arts pattern by the middle of the 17th century in hand made labour intensive Kosode.[9][11] Local Arimatsu shops were patronised during Sankin Kotai (1630-1862), then Narumi expanding it again further.[9] Thus Kanoko Shibori was emulated by the Iki in the 19th century who may seen Shibori as a Wamono 'folk craft' by then which is why you still see thousands of horrible 1980's plastic Shibori design on Furisode to this day. Major hubs today are Arimatsu and Narumi villages in Nagoya Prefecture.[2][4]

Bibliography

[1] https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E9%B9%BF%E3%81%AE%E5%AD%90%E7%B5%9E%E3%82%8A
[2] https://www.wanderingsilk.org/shibori-history-meaning#:~:text=Supposedly%20having%20been%20introduced%20from,Nara%20in%20the%208th%20century.
[3] https://hali.com/news/around-the-world-in-tie-dye/
[4] https://shiboriorg.wordpress.com/2021/06/08/conversations-with-cloth-shibori-connecting-the-world/
[5] https://kirikomade.com/blogs/our-fabrics/15315047-shibori
[6] https://artquill.blogspot.com/2019/01/shibori-tie-dying-1-art-essay-marie.html
[7] See Sengoku Jidai Art Markets in Bijin#15
[8] See Bijin #15
[9] https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/64896
[10] See Patterns #12
[11] See Timeline

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Sunday, January 8, 2023

絽 | Ro | Ro silk | Fabric #17

Ro ( 絽 ) silk fabric is a thin, see through fabric used to make Hitoe ( 一重 | unlined kimono ). It is most often worn in hot weather, which in Japan is between the June to September months. Woven using Karamiori ( | Mojiri weave ), this is what makes the fabric easy to ventilate and gives it its line like gap effects known as (horizontal) eyes. Ro is made by weaving warp threads with an odd number of weft threads to create these see through eyes. Ro can be used in any part of Wafuku production, even undergarments. There exist 3, 5, 13 eye gaps known as Ohonro, Ranro which follows a gap pattern of 3-5-7, and Tatero where the gaps are made by reversing the gap process to an odd number of warp threads, creating vertical eyes.[1]  

Machine Ro Weave with Embroidery (2019, CC4.0) Ineffablebookkeeper

Ro began to made in the Edo period (circa 1600) and existed to be worn as formal summer wear for the rich and monks. Sha fabrics (a more transparent Gauze like weave) was the basis for the Ro weave, with Ro created to allow finer types of dyes and patterns to be made onto the textiles surface often using stencils, painting and sometimes embroidery.[1][2] This allowed patterns like the Mon to be added to Kimono without the blurring effect of Sha fabrics. During the industrial age, mass produced Ro fabrics began to made using the Leno weave and may have made the majority of exported and everyday Ro fabrics during the 19th century and early 20th century.[1] It seems hitoe were also popular with quite a number of the liberally minded living in Edwardian Japan.[3] In the modern day, Tomesode, Houmongi, Tsukesage, Komon, Nagajuban, and detachable Eri are made using Ro, but this is dwindling with the death of new buyers.[1]

Bibliography

[1]  https://rosha.jp/faq/02_about_ro-sha/ro_sha_chigai/ 

[2] https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/kimono-fabrics

[3] My dodgy 1920s own research into art movements and writers circles.

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Work

 Work has decided that for some reason, both this and next weekend have workdays on the weekend so Ive taken the opportunity to get my life-...