Her Haughtynesses Decree

Friday, August 18, 2023

ひらがな | Hiragana | Text | Pattern series #20

Hiragana whilst a seemingly unlikely contender has been a motif used on kimono for centuries. Text on Kimono is used often to add poetical effect to an image, in imitation of the Heian period motif of Ashida-E. Most motifs which include this in 17th century Kimono are very large often draped across the shoulder expressively on what at the time was the new silhouette of furisode, whilst modern Kimono only use this motif in smaller fonts and styles a stylistic motif to marry images and texts.[1] For example, having a waka or haiku across the front of a masters craftsmen work are some I have seen used myself, but this is an exceedingly rare and unique motif in Kimono generally speaking. Different stylsitic writing styles are used to get across different aesthetics and meanings within the space they use, as will all graphic design processes.

Hinagata-Bon showing Hiragana on Kimono design (c.1667, PD) Japan  

Historically, Ashida-E (reed writing) were a sort of insider message to those who knew the reference which the text and image correlated with during the Peace Epoch. Distinctive and 'gaudy' Kimono became the rage by the 1670s among the middle classes of Edo and Osaka due to the side effects of Tokugawa Sumptuary Legislation which saw a rise in coinage, leading to urbanisation and local industry, whose more profitable industry leaders desired exciting new ways to show their wealth due to the sumptuary legislation of their day increasingly curtailing their spending and extravagances. They got around this by buying their Distinctive gaudy Kosode made by local Machi-Eshi (Town artists) like Yuezen Hiinakatta who imitated Kakemono scrolls by writing on Kimono, a now vital trend of Genroku KTC.[2][3] This trend continued until the 18th century, but fell out of favour with new money as it was regarded as tacky, becoming instead a smaller variation by 1800 and falling out of use by 1900. Some modern kimono may use it as an advertising motif or for poetical connotation, but this is rare.

Bibliography

[1] See Bijin series #15

[2] See Essay series #8

[3] See The Bijin has Arrived in Bijin #15

Apologies that this is up a day before it should be, but honestly, I am frazzled with stress at the moment between juggling my current schedule and switching over to a new one which has been frustrating to say the least as most of the stuff that is affecting my life is out of my hands. On the plus side, it means I have more control over my schedule in the future and that I will be reopening the shop at some point in the near future, somewhere between applying for my first real career role, volunteering, part time work. full time studying, learning Japanese and slowly going absolutely insane over the absolute hair pulling out exercise that is trying to get people in cushy offices to actually answer their GODDAMN EMAILS. Either way, I am getting rather burned out and need a day off before I have to start making more phone calls, emails and frustrated page scrolling to do these peoples jobs for them and apparently also everything else that involves which is *testing* my soul. Either way, heres to the future! Sorry about the rant, I just like to be organized and this has been the month from hell for me. Toodaloo~!

Socials:

One stop Link shop: https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav 
https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ 
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw 
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/ 

Sunday, August 6, 2023

羽二重 | Habutai | Plain weave silk | Fabric #20

Habutai ( feather-soft silk | 羽二重 ) is a basic plain weave silk. Habutai is commonly used to make the inner lining of some Kimono, most often summer Kimono. The thickness is measured in Mommes with 4 being sheer, 8 being lightweight, and 16 or more being rather heavy.[1][4] Also known by some as Pongee, this is the most common sort of silk you will see in Japanese silk types and is known for defining the silky feeling of Kimono. Habutai is made using unweighted raw silk yarn, leaving a handmade feel to the fabric.[3]

Vantines double page advertisement selling Habutai (1914, PD) archive.org
Yes the 1560 fashion comment made me laugh too

Historically, Habutai was woven in Japan on handlooms to be used in Kimono and was included as part of the Sumptuary laws banned fabrics for lower classes during the time of Tokugawa Ienari (1773-1841 | 徳川 家斉 ), an edict enforced by the likes of Mizuno Tadakuni ( 1794-1851 | 水野忠邦 ) onto Kabuki actors for example.[1][2][9] Habutai was originally woven on handlooms in smaller operations and workshops and was first exported from Japan in 1877 by Naohiro Koriki (active 1877-1887).[6][7] Habutai is a very taken for granted silk, serving as a functional, if luxurious place in the history of KTC, as the Meiji Emperor (1852-1912) for example gifted two rolls of Habutai on an 'imperial' tour around Yamanishi Prefecture to his accomadation hosts in 1880 as thanks.[5] The industrial scale at which products like Meisen were produced at by the 1890s when Habutai began to be widely exported to Europe and the US, beget an industrial enterprise by 1905 with output declining in production and export after 1920.[6][7] Exports increased again in 1937 and 1940 due to regulations and rationing in the Pacific War period for Japan, increasing after 1955.[8] Due to costs, today Habutai is mostly woven in other Asian economies as a blend of rayon and silk warp threads for things like scarves, parachutes and summer clothing.[1]

Bibliography

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Habutai

[2] https://www.arket.com/en_gbp/about/knowledge/habotai.html#:~:text=Knowledge%20Habotai%20(or%20habutai)%20means,in%20Japan%2C%20Korea%20and%20China.
[3] https://cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Habutai

[4] https://blog.patra.com/2017/06/28/the-different-types-of-silk/

[5] https://sake-shichiken.com/300_years_of_history

[6] The Rise and Fall of Industrialization and Changing Labor Intensity: The Case of Export-Oriented Silk Weaving District in Modern Japan, Tomoko Hashino, Keijiro Otsuka, 2015, pp.1-6 | Available online at https://www.econ.kobe-u.ac.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/1501.pdf 

[7] History of the Fukui Silk Textile Association of Japan, Buntaro Matsui, 1921, pp.7-21

[8] The Economic History of Japan 1600-1990; Economic history of Japan 1914-1955, Takafusa Nakamura, Akira Hayami, Kōnosuke Odaka, 1999, p.42, Volume 3

[9] The Economic Aspects of the History of the Civilization of Japan, Yosaburō Takekoshi, 1930, p.230, Volume 3

Socials:

One stop Link shop: https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav 
https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ 
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw 
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke/ 

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Hello again! So mid-sadly I will be closing the shop for sales on September. In this sense, I will also be scaling down my blog posts here a...