Recommended or Bonus Reading
- Kosode by Kamiya Eiko 1971 at Nihon no Bijutsu #67, Shibundo
- Kosode: 16th–19th Century Textiles from the Nomura Collection by Amanda Mayer Stinchecum and Monica Bethe 1984
- Kimono: Fashioning Culture by Liza Dalby 1993 AO
- 定本 着つけと帯結び百科 (Kitsuke Encyclopedia) 1993
- Japan's Golden Age: Momoyama by Money L. Hickman 1996
- Kimono Hime Zines 2003 - Present
- Japanese Kimono Designs by Shôjirô Nomura and Tsutomu Ema 2012 AO
- Kimono: A Modern History by Terry Satsuki Milhaupt 2014
- Kimono Meisen: The Karun Thakar Collection by Anna Jackson and Karun Thakar 2015
- Kimono Now by Manami Okazaki 2015
- Japan Beyond the Kimono: Innovation and Tradition in the Kyoto Textile Industry by Jenny Hall 2016
- Kimono Design: An Introduction to Textiles and Patterns by Keiko Nitanai 2017 AO
- Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk by Anna Jackson 2020
- http://www.so-bien.com/kimono/monyou/amimemon.html (Kimono Term Dictionary)
- http://jadexcore.blogspot.com/p/kitsuke-basics_19.html (Kimono Kitsuke Basics)
- https://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/fukusei/index.htm (Historical Kimono)
Glossary of Terms Used
- Abuna-e: Dangerous/Licentious Picture
- Acculturation: the process of social, psychological, and cultural change that stems from the balancing of two cultures while adapting to the prevailing culture of the society
- Ahina: A denim work apron worn by Issei Japanese-Hawaiians in the agricultural sector from 1890-1920
- Aesthetic: something or a framework seen as a form of beauty
- Aesthetic Movement: British design period from 1875-1900 with an emphasis on beauty
- Afternoon tea: Tea you drink in the afternoon, often between 3-5PM
- Afrikaans: The Dutch Boer language in South Africa
- Afong Moy: A Chinese-American who was displayed by the Carnes Brothers to sell pottery in the 1830s, she was abandoned by the 1840s
- Ajiro: Fishing Basket-weave motif
- Akome: The 4th layer of a Junihitoe
- Akomeogi: Heian period folding fan
- A lost art of the Old Japan where the Geisha room: See Japonaiserie
- Americanization: What happens when you Manifest Destiny your way across Benevolent Assimilation
- Amime: Fishing net pattern, associated with the fishing legend of Kannon in Asakusa
- Androgynous beauty: Beauty not solely masculine or feminine
- Animism: attribution of a living soul to plants, inanimate objects, and natural phenomena which often influence the enviroment around them
- Ankle: See nape and wrist; a saucy area which showed off your youthfulness as it flapped against your red Juban
- Anglo-Japanese style: The evolution of British design in relation its knowledge of Japanese art from 1850-1930
- Ansei Treaties: The Unequal Treaties signed between the West and Meiji Japan from 1854-1890?
- Ao: 鳌 Rad Turtle Dude from Chinese Creation Myth which Nuwa used as a bridge to reconnect Heaven and Earth, see Minogame
- Aphrodite Urania: Aphrodite in her intersex manifestation
- Archival Liberation: The act of going through an archive or old database of documents, information, images etc to cross reference assumptions to reach new conclusions about previously buried conclusions, can be seen as a form of revision historiography which attempts to complete the jigsaw rather than leave it half finished as is often the case in cultures whose historiographies omit 'minority' histories such as of the LGBTQ or African American history for example so as to bring their history back into mainstream historiographies using verifiable evidence based conclusions
- Art Deco: the French reaction to the modern or Anglo-Japanese style in my damned opinion, popular in Japanese kimono from 1925-1940
- Arthur Golden: A Prat. Full stop.
- Aryan: A certain Austrians idea of a good looking kid
- Asagao: Morning Glory, chapter 20 of the Genji, also used to treat Diarrhoea
- Asai Ryoi: Author of Tales of the Floating World (1666) a tome of the floating, merchant, hedonistic Ukiyo world and pioneering Mujyou artist
- Asanoha: The Hemp Leaf Pattern made of repeating parallelograms cut in half in the complex of a star
- Ashida-E: Reed writing poetry favoured by lady aristocrats of the Heian period who wrote in that new Kana script thing all the kids are talking about these days
- Asobi: Play Girl; refers to someone open to a good time at least who before the establishment of legal brothels, turned themselves over to the hedonistic world of Ukiyo, flitting between their wealthy merchant lovers spending their earnings on Kagema, sake, Abuna-e of Koshokuban and Kabuki
- Aubrey Beardsley: The famous British Modern style Illustrator known for the Peacock Skirt (1893)
- Azumakouto: A type of cheap throwon overcoat known as a 'rag concealer' which hid your messier Kimono, resembles a modern Michiyuki with 2 strips of buttons but runs the full length of the Kimono rather than stopping at the knees introduced by the 1910s
- Baekje: Japans Korean ally and intermediary with the antiquity Jin and Wei Dynasties of China until 660 CE when it collapsed
- Bakufu: The Tent Government formed at Sekigahara who used to hang around in the 17th century equivalent of those white plastic Marquee tents with the plastic windows
- Base weaves: The first weave warp threads on a loom
- Bashofu: Textile made from Banana Yarns
- Bast fibre: Determines how course by grades a fibre becomes, grades are measured by how close they are taken from the trunk of a tree
- Beauty Standard: Socially constructed notions that physical attractiveness is an important social asset, which should be strived for and maintained, often tied to notions of wealth, gender and class
- Benevolent Assimilation: The policy used to make Philippines an American Colony
- Beni: A red dye popular from 710-1850 in Japan
- Beni-E: Crimson Images
- Benibana: Safflower
- Benimochi: A method invented in the Muromachi period to make balls of Benibana dye easier to sell
- Benizuri-E: Crimson and Green Colour Prints
- Bijin: Beautiful Person
- Bijin-ga: Beautiful Person Image, originated in China in the Tang dynasty
- Bikuni: A mediveal nun who went around peddling pseudo-Buddhist spiritualism
- Bishounen: An androgynous young male beauty
- Bhavacakra: A physical representation of the cyclic nature of Samsara in a pictorial format
- Boddhisavatta: A Buddhist who swears an oath to redo the cycle of Samsara to assist in the Enlightenment of others
- Bhumi: The 10 stages of Boddhisattva enlightenement
- Bolts: Lengths of fabric used to make Kimono; around 6 meters is needed for a westerner to make a new Kimono/Yukata/Hitoe
- Boro: Patchwork Recycling of old garments into new ones, often for working class childrens garments
- Boxer Codex: A Spanish/Phillipines Illuminated Manuscript
- Brocade: Heavy silk textile used for Obi
- Browning: The process undertaken to colourmatch Bashofu cloth to the desired colour scheme; most Bashofu cloth ranges from Light Yellow Browns to Deep Black-Browns
- Bubble Crash: The 1990 devaluation of the Yen which popped the 1980 Bubble Economy
- Buddhism: the religion of Siddhartha Gautama
- Bugaku: Dancing Gagaku
- Bunjinga: Chinese Literary style painting
- Bushi: Warrior
- Bushido: sets of moral codes concerning correct samurai attitudes, behaviours and lifestyle, basically how to pick your nose politely, not the Nitobe edition
- Byobu: Japanese folding screen; often decorated in painting or gold leaf
- Calling: Aristocratic British tradition which began in the early 18th century whereupon the caller visits the home of another aristocrat to 'take tea' or to converse
- Camp: An aesthetic which deliberately uses ostentatious, exaggerated, theatrical, gaudy, tacky, low class behaviour or style which originated in the writings of Frederick William Park in 1870 London and subcultures of at first British gay working class men transferring internationally in the 1960s with the popularity of Swinging London
- Canon: Established or popular tomes of a culture, people or society
- Charles Frederick Worth: The English inventor of haute couture culture in France
- Chanoyu: Tea ceremony
- Chashitsu: Tea room
- Chaya: Teahouse or Tea Establishment
- Chayazome: Chaya dyed or a graduating indigo wash dye popularised by the Chaya wholesale store in the 1670s
- Chignon buns: High bun styles imported from Korea and China (during the 16th century according to the Boxer Codex and by the account of Peter Mundy; from 1590-1637) which began the fashions for the highly gelled, slicked styles which developed during Sakoku (lasting from 1690-1960)
- Ching-Chong: Another yellowface stereotype born in the 1870s Irish-American vaudeville minstrel tradition used to specifically emasculate Asian men and warn against 'miscegenation'
- Chirimen silk: Crepe Silks
- Cho-Cho: The submissive Geisha stereotype found in Long's novel Madame Butterfly (1899)
- Cho Obi: An obi tied in a knot to resemble a butterfly's wings
- Chonin: A townsperson or Merchant in the Edo period
- Christopher Dresser: An influential British industrial designer who visited Japan in 1876
- Christopher Wren: Architect known for rebuilding London after the 1666 fire
- Cold War: When USA got Cold feet near Alaska, see Lost War
- Confucianism: an ancient Chinese belief system, which focuses on the importance of personal ethics and morality.
- Compensated Dating: Dating for money
- Confucianism: The teachings of the Chinese classical Philosopher Confucius
- Cottage Industry: Homemade wares made by domestic labourers en masse
- Court Fans: Fans used in the Heian court to express sentiment, symbolism and Buddhist catechisms to other courtiers
- Cross-culture: When two cultural features cross over
- Cross-cultural competence: The ability to understand people from different cultures and engage with them effectively
- Cultural Appreciation: n. the acknowledged or appropriate adoption of the practices, customs, or aesthetics of one social or ethnic group by members of another community or society. [Based on the Oxford English Dictionary Online]
- Cultural Appropriation: n. the unacknowledged or inappropriate adoption of the practices, customs, or aesthetics of one social or ethnic group by members of another (typically dominant) community or society. [From the Oxford English Dictionary Online]
- Cultural Assimilation: the process in which a minority group or culture comes to resemble a dominant group or assume the values, behaviors, and beliefs of another group
- Cultural Diffusion: the spread of cultural items—such as ideas, styles, religions, technologies, languages—between individuals, whether within a single culture or from one culture to another e.g- the spread of Western business suits in the 20th century
- Cultural diversity: the quality of diverse or different cultures, as opposed to monoculture, the global monoculture, or a homogenization of cultures, akin to cultural evolution. The term cultural diversity can also refer to having different cultures respect each other's differences
- Cultural Heterogeneity: the differences in cultural identity related to class, ethnicity, language, traditions, religion, sense of place etc, that can make it more or less difficult for people to communicate, trust and co-operate with each-other
- Cultural pluralism: the practice of various ethnic groups collaborating and entering into a dialogue with one another without having to sacrifice their particular identities
- Curvilinear: A curved line mostly found in the Modern or Anglo-Japanese Style
- Daiku: Head Artisan appointed by a medieval Daimyo
- Diet: The National Japanese Parliamentary House, like the House of Commons
- Divide and Conquer: gaining and maintaining power by breaking up larger concentrations of power into pieces that individually have less power than the one implementing the strategy, such as Romans breaking up Anglo-Saxon Heptarchy into their Greater and Smaller Britanniae Colonia, or in Julius Caesars earlier words: 'Veni, vidi, vici' (I came; I saw; I conquered)
- Divine: providence or God; the famous drag queen
- Doki-doki: The sound of the racing heart after senpai notices you
- Dominance Theory/Hierarchy: The colonial or social pecking order in a society
- Donsu: Glossy Satin Damask Silk Weave, see Nishijin Ori
- Dori Kimono - A 2010's style deriving from the Kimono-hime subculture, wearers often wear vintage Kimono from 1920-2000, varied vintage and modern fashion accessories, bright colours and takes its inspiration from 1990's-2010s Japanese fashion from magazines like Kimono-Hime and Fruits and streetwear, frequently borrows from Japanese street fashion subcultures like Lolita
- Drag: A term which originated in 19th century British theatre slang for entertainment which incorporates elaborate costumes and performances which questions the societal moray of the masculine and feminine along the gender spectrum and identity through at times a unique drag persona
- Dragon Lady: A stereotype of East Asian women who play strong women roles, principally cast as being deceitful, domineering, exotic and promiscuous that originated in the 1934 comic strip Terry and the Pirates
- Drunken Lotus Bijin: See Xi Shi, the sharp move from seeing beautiful women as property to the Tang era's definition of aspirational beauty standards for women which was decidedly more booze-filled and immodest which Tang court women encouraged, or a Beauty whose beauty originated from her natural character and had a propensity for religious dignity which enabled female agency
- Dukkha: Buddhist suffering or painful and unsatisfactory fundamental nature of mundane life
- Duke Ling of Wey: a gaybie who handed power over to his wife Lady Nanxi to eat peaches and ride around in his carriage with his boyfriend
- Eadfrith of Lindisfarne: The creator of the Insular aesthetic carpet pages of the Lindisfarne Gospels in 8th century Northern England
- Early Modern Period: Early Modern English resources (1500-1800)
- Egasuri: A technique for patterns in Kasuri Ikat using a standing wooden plank to create the patterns by hand developed in 1839 by Otsuka Taizen
- E-goyomi: Lunar Picture Calendars
- E-hon: Picture Books usually with Buddhist themes
- Ellen Terry: Popular Victorian British stage actress, her husband was an early Japan cult member
- Ema: Small wooden plaques used in Shinto to make a wish to the god at the temple you are visiting
- E-maki: Long Horizontal Handpainted Scroll with writing
- Emakimono: Picture scroll things
- Embroidery: Using a needle to thread to decorate a textile
- Empress Koken: a famous Empress who requested 1 million tiny wooden pagodas be made which contained teeny-weeny woodblock printed scrolls to be distributed around Japanese monks in thanks for having helped to suppress the Emi Rebellion (764) against her enemy, the Fujiwara no Nakamo (718-770)
- Ethnic dress: The dress associated with an ethnic group
- Ethnocentrism: to apply one's own culture or ethnicity as a frame of reference to judge other cultures, practices, behaviors, beliefs, and people, instead of using the standards of the particular culture involved
- Eri: The Kimono Collar
- Exotic Japon trope: The idea that Japan is a feudal society with infantile inhabitants who spend all their time doing art
- E-ya: Picture Shops, workshops of independent artists active from 1200-1900 who were taken over in the 20th century by the Depato and Art Galleries
- Figure: The Human Body in art
- Forelock: A triangular piece of hair at the front of the head which details the time a Wakashu reached puberty which before coming of age as adults became socially permissible to have sex with either men or women
- Forgotten War: The Korean War, called so becuase US lost it and then conviently forgot about it
- Framework: a basic structure underlying a system, concept, or text
- Frances Dawson/Leyland: The lady of the Leyland shipping family, an art patron around Japan
- Fudai Daimyou: Inner circle Lords from the battle of Sekigahara who supported Ieyasu
- Fukinuki Yatai: When only the floor and beams are present in a building in the Yamato-E style
- Fujitsubo: Genji's courtly lady lover and mother of Emperor Reizen, she plays a large role in the story of the Seigeihara pattern in her steadfast love in the face of adversity
- Fujiyama: I refuse to call it Mount, she isn't an ex Greek monarch
- Furisode: A long sleeved Kimono worn traditionally by unmarried young women, worn today with Hakama upon graduating Higher Education
- Futo-Ori: Thick weave woven silk
- Fuzokuga: Japanese Genre Painting
- Ga: Refined
- Gagaku: Highly ritualised and ceremonial Traditional East Asian Court Music played using percussion and stringed instruemnts which originated from Korea, China, Vietnam and other countries which travelled to Japan and is played at the Imperial Court
- Ganryou: Pigment
- Geisha: I use this term to refer to the western Stereotype of the submissive or servient Asian woman
- Gender: A social construct which like money, does not exist apart from in human brains
- Genji: A popular rake with a messy love life from the Peaceful times
- Genna era: 1615-1624
- Genre painting: Images of everyday or rural scenes and landscapes
- Genroku Style: Fashions started and popularised by merchants in the Genroku period (1688-1704), popular in Japan from 1905-1912 which became fashionable among Tokyo Geisha who imitated the dress and hairstyles that were in vogue during the Genroku period
- Gongti: Palace-style genre, steamy poetry about imprisoned aristocratic women in East China during the Asuka period
- Good Wife, Wise Mother or 良妻賢母: A phrase coined in 1875 by Nakamura Masanao based on an interpretation of Confucianist teachings, which idealised the Meiji Japanese (and later Korean; Hyeonmo Yangcheo | 현모양처 | Wise mother and Good Wife; and Chinese) woman as belonging to the 'domestic sphere' (the proverbial kitchen) and to uphold 'Yamato pride' by giving birth to 'strong' sons for Imperial Japan, all this of unsurprisingly was seen as a Woman's patriotic duty
- Gofukuten: Large Stores such as Mitsukoshi which originally specialised in Kimono
- Goshoguruma: Aristocratic ox carts
- Grand Dame: A drag performer who forms a key function of British pantomime
- Gravure: Glamour photography shots
- Greater East Co Prosperity Sphere: Japanese Empire
- Guan Yin: Also known as Avalokitesvara or the Mahayana Bodhisattva who leads Buddhists to the Western Pure Land in a Lotus, important for allowing early Tang dynasty outer female beauty to prosper in the Sui dynasty
- Gyaru: A Japanese street fashion which veers pretty close to being culturally insensitive nowadays, but was popular between 1995 - 2010 in Japanese highschools
- Haebaru: Town located in Shimajiri District, Okinawa known for its role in making Kasuri
- Haikara: High collar
- Haikara-san: A charicature of the smart sets of young women during the Taisho era who dressed up their Wafuku with Yofuku and were often seen to wear Hakama
- Hake: A small round or elongated hand brush used in resist dye to apply dye to cotton yarns or stencil designs
- Hakama: Kimono trousers worn historically by men and from the Meiji period by women
- Hata Clan: Chinese-Korean immigrant clan who brought the art of twill silk weaving and sericulture with them from China, active during 100-600 CE
- Hatching patterns: Patterns made on materials which act as markers of identification for their creators; often a repeating engraved pattern on objects and spaces
- Hamaya: Good luck Charm arrows bought at Shrines for New Year
- Hanafuri: A process where safflower is washed to make red dye
- Hanami: Spring or Cherry Blossom watching; symbolising the move from Spring into Summer
- Hanamochi: A pattycake made from crushed Safflower
- Haniwa: Terracotta burial figures from the Kofun period
- Handloom: Refers to the Jibata, used to weave textile fibres by hand
- Hellenic: Of Ancient Greece
- Hemp: A common textile used by the peasants
- Heian age: The golden age for Japanese culture (794-1185AD)
- Heimin: Sometimes Shomin, a commoner
- Hikone Byobu: An ICP screen from Hikone made during the Kan'ei era (1624–44)
- Hinagata-Bon: Kosode Pattern Book; first known to have been printed as etiquette guides in the 1660's and as design books by the 1680s
- Hinoki: Cypress
- Hiogi: A folding fan which originated in the Heian period
- Hishikawa style: Curvilinear lines, risque postures and a new Feng Shui to background spatial arrangement
- Hitoe: Single layered or summer kimono
- Hitomezashi: Single Stab or Running Sashiko Stitch
- Hokusai Katsushika: A Japanese artist, ukiyo-e painter and printmaker best known for the series 36 Views of Mount Fuji and his Manga encyclopedia which used his famous wide brushstrokes
- Hogushi Nassen: Loose silk threads first dyed and then woven
- Hogushi-Ori: Virgin yarn or silk thread sorting, often used to make Meisen
- Houmongi: A formalwear Kimono which is reserved for special or formal events, sometimes seen on the wivves of the Diet members, it usually has between 0-3 Mon
- Hyakumanto Darani: 1000s of tiny wooden pagodas with the first instances of Woodblock printing ever used in Japan to create text in this way, ordered by Empress Koken in celebration of her victory
- Hyakunin Isshu: Japanese anthologies of 100 waka by one hundred poets
- Hyoubanki: Ranking lists of Kabuki actors and Courtesans
- Ibaraki: A prefecture in Japan
- Ichimura-za: Edo era Kabuki theater
- Ikat: From Indonesia or India, see Meisen
- Ikemen: Good-looking man
- Iki: an aesthetical concept formed in late GKTC which subverted class by diminishing the idea of material wealth for being toned down or 'classy' and subduing displays of grandeur, instead emphasising 'classic' tastes of dress in response to the archetypal flashy GKTC Bijin
- Ikou: A Japanese Kimono Stand
- Ikou Byobu: Clothing Stand Screen
- Ikou Ga: Clothing Stand Picture Genre
- Important Tangible Cultural Property: Cultural Feature of Japan deemed as historically or nationally important; investment in the techniques used to make these items are often encouraged as many of their creators are living artisans
- Interior Dresses: Victorian dress worn over other petticoats and kirtle and only worn indoors
- Iromuji: a plain single coloured kimono; some kimono use reduced and increased areas of sericin as patterns to produce dull and bright sheened areas in the woven fabric which produce beautiful elaborating shiny patterns, or simply repeat embroidery
- Ito-basho tree: The banana palm-tree whose leaves are used to make Bashofu yarns; known in Latin as the Musa Balbisinia fauna
- Indigo: A deep blue; also one of my favourite colours
- Inoue Den: 1788-1869, the founder of Kurume Kasuri in 1701
- Ionides Family: Greek British art patrons of the Anglo-Japanese style
- Issei: First Generation
- Itchiku Kubota: Revival Artisan of Tsujigahana
- Itozome Ori: Yarn Dyeing technique
- Iwasa Matabei: The founder of Ukiyo-e, alive from 1578-1650
- Izaribata: See Jibata
- Izumo no Okuni: A shrine maiden or Miko, who dance and sang in popular style along the Kamo riverbed which became Kabuki in 1603
- Jade: Statesian 19th century slang for an East Asian sex worker, derogatory
- *J*a*p*a*n*: A racialist, othering notion of Japanese culture and societal practices, frequently seen when a westerner from 1860-1930 describes Japan as a 'fairyland' or 'Utopia' without taking account the reality of life in Japan
- Japan: A country in Eastern Asia
- Japan Cult: A historical art term referring to the devoted followers of artists, designers and craftspeople who devoted themselves to Japanology in Britain, a number were Anglo-Japanese society members from 1891
- Japanese: Something related to Japanese culture
- Japan Inc.: The Military Industrial Complex of the Japanese Empire
- Japonaiserie: Cultural Appropriation, but not to the extent of Longingism
- Jia Nanfeng; 257 - 300; A six dynasties POC Empress who ruled on the behalf of her disabled husband in some matters of state, also had her own harem of men and was the intended audience for the Satire the Admonitions of the Court Instructress
- Jibata: See Handloom
- Ji-monnyou: A pattern, design or motif which is used as a background or backdrop on a textile design to ground a design or draw the eye away or around a spatial arrangement
- Jinbaori: A sleeveless coat worn in the Sengoku period by men for war
- JKTC: Japanese Kimono Textile Culture, sometimes otherwise
- John Chinaman: The yellowface version of Jim Crow or Zip Coon, he grew out of white stereotypes of Chinese-American miners in California in the 1850s
- John Luther Long: The guy who helped popularise the Geisha or Submissive Asian woman stereotype
- Joruri: Puppet plays
- Jotaro Saito: A Kyoto fashion designer who has staged a kimono catwalk annually since 2006
- JSDF: Japanese Self Defense Force, not the Giant Robots I swear
- Juban: The inner silk layer of Kimono; often red nowadays because sauciness
- Junihitoe: 12 layer kimono
- Jyoudo: The Pure Land of Mahayana Buddhism
- Kabedon: Problematic but romantic wall slamming to corner your crush
- Kabuki: Japanese theatre which incorporates traditional dance and drama; originally a womans only theater made up by Izumo no Okuni in 1604-1629
- Kabukimono - To walk and dress bizarrely
- Kaede: Acer Japonicum
- Kagema: Young male sex worker who catered to women and men
- Kagemajaya: Young male sex worker teahouse
- Kaguya-Hime: The princess found in a bamboo stalk who resides on the moon
- Kakemono: Horizontal Art Scroll
- Kakoikomi: the art of the pushy salespersons; refers to salespeople who push customers to buy expensive Kimono by surrounding them instore
- Kanazoshi: Books written in Kana or simple Japanese; the majority were in print between 1600-1680 and were printed using Suzumuri-e and woodblock prints which you could rent in the travelling lending libraries found on the streets in handcars pushed by street peddlars
- Kanji: Japanese characters derived from Traditional Chinese logographs
- Kan'ei era: 1624-1644
- Kano Eitoku: Founder of the flowers and bird painting school
- Kano school: the dominant style and school of painting in Japan (1450-1868)
- Kambun style: The fashions and art popular in the Kambun period (1661-1673)
- Kami: Gods in the Shinto religion; they are spirits which reside in all things in the Animism tradition
- Kamigata: The area around Osaka and Kyoto
- Kappa: A wool raincoat OR a mythological creature known to rapier ze anklebiters
- Kara-E: Pictures whose style originates in the Japanese ethnocentric view of China
- Karamiori: the Mojiri weave which is made by tightly weaving an odd number of warp and even weft threads to make the eyes of Ro or Sha fabrics for Hitoe
- Kara-Ori: Chinese style weave, see Nishijin-Ori
- Kasane-no-irome: coloured layering in junihitoe which followed the 72 traditonal chinese calendar seasons or something
- Kasaya: Buddhist Monks robes
- Kasuri: Resist-dye technique which replaced Katazome in the Meiji period
- Katabira: Hemp Kimono which was often unlined and worn by Heimin in the 17th century
- Katagome: Repeating arrows motif
- Katazome: A traditional Japanese resist dye pattern made using stencils
- Kawakami Sadayakko: A Meiji era actress and dancer by trade who often performed in the West
- Kawarazaki-za: Edo era Kabuki theater
- Kesa: A Buddhist monks overmantle
- Kimorobe: A evolution of the Western interpretation of JKTC, wherein through North American-KTC and European-KTC the kimono became a form of loungewear beginning by around 1905
- Kimono: A Thing to Wear
- Kimono Hime: Fanzine first published in 2003 said to have popularised the subculture of which the style today known after the magazine, the style itself is a mix of 2000's fashion and editorial magazines, vintage Kimono from 1910-1970 and western fashion accessories
- Kimonope: Something we recognise as having Kimono qualities, but in reality has more in common with a Halloween costume than a Kimono; is indeed often a Halloween costume
- Kijoka: An area in the Okinawan village of Ojimi
- Kimono Textile Culture: The Culture surrounding the social construct of the Kimono, early KTC include Genroku KTC (1688-1704) which saw the Merchants classes beginning to use Kimono as a way to flout their new wealth by swerving sumptuary laws and the widening of womens Obi for example, or USAKTC such as a $1 'geisha outfit' or Kimonope, also see Textile Culture
- Kimono Wednesdays: The infamous protests of ye olde 2015
- Kin Byobu: Golden folding screens
- Kirishitan: Japanese Christians
- Kitamae-bune: Ships bound for trade with Honshu usually sailing from Kyushu
- Kitsuke: The way a person wears their Kimono; dressing in a Kimono
- Kiyohara Yukinobu: Japanese female painter active 1650-1682
- Kokin Wakashu: Ancient and Modern Japanese Waka Poetry Anthology
- Kokujin: Provincial or Countryside fief Lords
- Komachi: Art districts where arts people live
- Komachi-Beni: A green-gold iridescent red used by Geigi to make themselves alluring under candlelight made from Benibana
- Komin: The artisan caste in Confucian philosophy
- Komon: Commonly worn kimono for informal occasions
- Empress Komyo: Empress of the Nara court
- Konjac jelly: Used in paste resist dye techniques like Meisen dying, also an edible bulber used to make Oden and noodles
- Koshokuban: Dirty Books; Early softcore Doujinshi we'll say
- Kosode: The shorter, stumpier predecessor of the modern Kimono
- Mount Kōya: Also known as Koya-san, a mountain on Southwestern Honshu with 8 peaks said to represent the lotus flower; once upon a time, mountains were worshipped as female Kami
- Kuchi-E: Foldout Image from a Magazine or Publication
- Kuge: A highly ranked court noble in the Heian period
- Kugonin: Court appointed medieval workshop artisans
- Kunigami: A district which houses Ojimi village in Okinawa
- Kurume: Kurume is a city in Fukuoka Prefecture, Kyushu known for popularising Ikat Meisen Kasuri during the Taisho period
- Kyoho reforms: Sumptuary legislation in 1736 which tried to keep the Bakufu afloat after they overspent on Kimono, upheld the laws that Heimin must be more 'Iki'
- Kyoto: A city in Western Honshu; known as the Western Capital
- Kyushu: The southermost main island of Japan
- Lady Ise: a Japanese poet in the Imperial court's waka tradition (875-938)
- LBH: Long black hair which was a classical Heian beauty standard
- LDP: Liberal Democratic Party which is really the Japanese Conservatives
- Leizu: A mythological Empress of China who according to legend planted the first mulberry tree which created sericulture
- Liberty's: Libertys department store is a 2 story store on just off Oxford Street opened by Arthur Lasenby Liberty in 1875, which has it roots as a Shawl and Oriental Goods Emporium in London from 1862
- Logograph: A small unit of language known as a sign which represents a word or clause, like the Japanese character or Kanji for wood or the-way-of-perfume
- Loochoo: Anglicism of Ryukyu used by missionaries
- Longinguistically/Longingism: an act which characterises Kimono in a sexualised manner adjacent to the manners of which the wests depicts the Geisha stereotype
- Lotus Blossom: The film version of Cho-Cho, see Madame Butterfly or Pierre Loti
- Lotus Sutra: The Lotus teachings of Buddhism, a highly important and revered text in Buddhism
- Ludus: Playful or uncommitted love, involving activities such as teasing, dancing, overt flirting, seduction, and conjugating
- Ma: Negative space aesthetic; the artistic interpretation of an empty space, often holding as much importance as the rest of an artwork and focusing the viewer on the intention of negative space in an art piece; Ma may also refer to the perception of a space, gap or interval, without necessarily requiring a physical compositional element with Ma therefore being less reliant on the existence of a gap, and more closely related to the perception of a gap instead, it is supposed to invoke the feeling of fulfilling the unfulfilled in sum total
- Macarthism: the 1950s assertion that Kimono are distinctly outdated womens attire based in patriarchal paternalistic notion of hegemonic cultural/White supremacy dogma from the Racialist Douglas Macarthur the Turd or SCAP man or Commodore Perry II Ansei 2.0: Return of Murica; the instigator
- Machi-Eshi: Town Painters, Komin who fled local wars during the end of the Sengoku Jidai
- Machishu: Old money wealthy Kyoto merchants and some Daimyou who often patronised wealthy artisans after the end of the Sengoku Jidai also known as business leaders
- MAD: Mutually Assured Destruction
- Madame Butterfly: John Luther Long's 1899 masterpiece of patriarchal racism
- Mandala: A visual object, often a circular design with an icon in the center which represents a locipalace that is visited during meditation in Tibetan Buddhism; Mandalas often contain motif used to refer to guiding principles from the Eightfold Path for example such as Right Thought
- Manifest Destiny: When 'America' decided to 'Go West', google it
- Manjushri: A Mahayana Boddhisavatta associated with wisdom
- Medieval: the dark ages of Europe (500-1500AD)
- Meiji era: 1868-1912
- Meisen: Thick woven silk made from silk waste products
- Meisen Renaissance: Period approximately from 1908 - 1939 when Meisen were the most popular Depato Wafuku trend item
- Miesho: Popular tourist trap genre
- Metallic thread: A traditional embroidery technique
- Ming Dynasty: Chinese rule (from 1368 to 1644)
- Minogame: An immortal turtle lord who protects Kyoto and has a seaweed tail
- Mitate-e: a subgenre of Ukiyo-e that uses allegory to parody classical art or events; literally to compare one thing to another pictures
- Military-Industrial-Complex: The Hard Power of the American Military and the Technological Complex surrounding American 'Defense'
- Misses Turner Court Dress Makers: London based creator of the wonderful 1874 dress found in Essay #6
- Mo: The shirt in Junihitoe
- Modern Style: Replace word with Art Nouveau; a style which has it beginnings in the Anglo-Japanese style after Christopher Dresser visited Japan in 1876-1877
- Modest fashion: Clothing designed to cover skin or 'immodest' bodily parts, usually for religious purposes today like the Hijab, in order to keep the modesty of their wearer in public
- Moga: Modern girl who incorporated western fashions or lifestyles into their style and behaviours between 1900-1930
- Mokkan: Wooden recodring tablets used to supplement court documents in the nara period
- Momiji-no-Ga: The Autumn Excursion, a year set in the 7th chapter of Murasaki's Genji which depicts the resilience of Genji and Fujitsubo's love, (with whom he has a child) in the face of their love rivals at the Emperors court
- Mommes: Measurement for how thick or see through a silk plainweave fabric is with 4 being sheer and 16 a thicker weave
- Mon: A family crest which often is a different pattern in a circle, peasant formal Kimono have up to 5
- Monolithic culture: a societal construct or organisation like religion which often has negative connotations in our society. For example, the percived rigidity and homogeneity of a monolithic culture that is not open to new ideas, these is their truest form are the few hunter-gatherer societies or uncontacted societies like those few found in the Amazon rainforest. Japan gained this marker during its time as the Empire of Japan under Sakoku, becuase of the percieved closed borders
- Mono no aware: Finding the beauty in Mujyou or the transient beauty of life in passing
- Mosurin: Muslin or worsted wool
- Mujyou: Impermenant Transition or the idea that all being do not stick around, but fade away and are in constant flux ie pull a tom holland but Hanami
- Multiculturalism: the coexistence of people with many cultural identities in a common state, society, or community, also though in the prescriptive sense to refer to the political theory framework that individual cultures, groups or ethnic peoples be given their own space in the wider society which has led some to criticise policymakers use of multiculturalism as divisive (should only be considered post 1996 world due to the times tightening of immigration, the enforcing of borders and encouragement of national identity rather than encouraging individuals to think of themselves as global citizens)
- Murasaki: Royal Purple
- Murasaki Shikibu: The Heian writer of the first novel ever
- Mishibako: A steam box or tube used to steam silk threads
- Muromachi era: 1336-1573
- Nagajuban: See Juban
- Nakamura-za: Edo era Kabuki theater
- Na Hye-Seok or 나혜석: The Korean Modern Woman writer and artist who published Sinyoja (New Woman) in Korea in 1920
- Naha: Capital city of Okinawa
- Nanban Byobu: Foreigner Folding Screens; some of the first Japanese depictions of Africans
- Nanbanjin: Southern Barbarians/Foreigners; also known as the Iberians
- Nanshoku: The proactive way to be gay; male-on-male; it was said during the Edo period that men would rank their lovers parts-adjoining-the-rectum by their proximity to the Chrysanthemum, the national flower as it contracted and expanded
- Ms Nanzi: (act.534 - 480 BCE); an established scholar and powerbroker of Imperial China and ardent philosopher who was known down the Weys of History for her friendship with Confucius
- Nape: The stretch of skin below the hairline on display above a Kimonos Eri; this is said to be particularly tantalizing to this day in Japan
- Nara: A city/prefecture in Japan; famous for developing local silk around the 6th century
- Nara period: 710-794 in the Georgian Calendar
- Nettle: Used for making fibres for Tsumugi silk
- New Japan: A Victorian and Edwardian social construct or ideal which characterised Japanese society and culture from 1870-1945 as somehow forward thinking, global, industrial, capable of projecting hard power and 'progressive' because Japan had established contact with the Western powers of America and Europe and adopted (the racialist notion of) 'Western ways'
- Night soil compost merchants: Poop collectors
- Nibutani: Wood Cloth made in Hokkaido for Ainu workwear
- Nikawa: Animal Collagen Glue
- Nise-Kurenai: Imitation or 'Dutch' Benibana worn by the Edo Heimin
- Nishijin Ori: Nishijin weave
- Nishiki-E: Brocade Prints otherwise known as full colour Ukiyo-E prints
- Noh: Traditional Japanese dramatic theater
- Noblesse oblige: the 'moral responsibility' or psychological mentality which allows a Coloniser to believe that imperialism is a 'civilising mission' of education, religious conversion for cultural assimilation of the Other into their Empire which transforms the "uncivilised" Other (indigineous peoples) into being 'civilised' peoples (thinking as the coloniser wishes them to)
- Non-binary: A person who falls outside of the gender binary and somewhere along the gender spectrum
- Noragi: A farmers work overcoat
- Noribosen: A resist-paste stencil technique created in the late Genroku era which allowed for designs to be coloured two different colours and to hold its colour by being done on both sides of the fabric
- Noshi-itou: Silk thrums
- Nuwa: Chinese mother goddess
- Nymph Trope: Han and Six Dynasty (220BCE-589CE) poetical trope used to convey the ideals of contemporaneous beauty standards through the male gaze of women in Ancient China
- Obi: The belt worn around the Kimono
- Ohanro: A type of weave made up of different numbers of eyes, see Mojiri weave
- Oiran: A high ranking Yujou
- Ojimi: A village in Okinawa, Japan; specialises in Bashofu weaving
- Okinawa: An island/prefecture in Japan; the southern and westernmost in the archipelago
- Old Japan: A Victorian social construct or ideal which characterised Japanese society and culture from before 1868 as somehow backwards, rural, non-industrial, infantile and simplistic because it had minimal contact with the Western powers of America and Europe
- Omeshi: The scratchiest tsumugi woven silk you can get, a thick chirimen silk weave
- Onna: Woman
- Onna-E: Womens pictures was a style popular during the Heian period and known for its focus on body language with three distinctive lines to make a brock face
- Onnade: Womens writing mostly popularised in the Heian era by writers like Murasaki Shikibu
- Onnagata: Man playing a woman on stage
- Onin War: Civil war between families close to the Ashikaga Shogunate in the East and West of Japan fought between 1467 to 1477, see Sengoku Jidai
- Onion Life: the humiliating act in post WWII Japan of peeling away one layer after another of precious wartime goods for sale to an American GI for chocolate or clothes, many of these items being Kimono
- Orient: a word meaning 'East', derived from Greek sources describing the Levant, which the Romans adopted to describe the 'Dioceses Orientis'/ 'Oriental Province/Region' (c.297CE) under Diocletian's (242-312CE) Tetrarchy reforms which created the Eastern Roman Empire, later used by the Iberian Crusaders against Berber Muslims, spread into English by Middle French and Elizabethan scholars who studied the Crusades/Reconquista in the 15th/16th centuries
- Orientalism: the imitation or depiction of aspects in countries from Egypt to Japan usually done by writers, designers, and artists from the 'West/Occident' towards the 'East/Orient' (referring mostly to a general patronizing Western attitude towards Middle Eastern, Asian, and North Africans) which are lumped together as one static and 'primitive' Oriental culture which is studied, depicted, and reproduced for the benefit of an imperial power which implicitly relays that the observers own culture is therefore more 'civilized', rational, flexible, and superior to 'Oriental culture'
- Osaka: A town in Southern Honshu
- Othering: The act of turning 'free people' into the 'colonial subjects' essentially, for a colony to prosper it historically culturally subjugated the 'native population' by turning them into the 'Other' (academics call this the 'subaltern native'), the Other then do the colonisers job for them and subjugate themselves by facilitating the exploitation of their own regions labour, lands, and natural resources, this devalues the Other and values the Colonisers culture and works mostly through the 'Us Vs Them' dichotomy, an example is the imposition of the label savage in its pejorative semantical connotation onto another culture such as the Greek Historian Diodorus Siculus characterising Britain as "the home of men who are complete savages and lead a miserable existence because of the cold" (IKR shocking, England was a colony from 43AD-398AD and invaded from 43-1066AD Or Me most times people say England wasnt colonised: ?<|:0; I call it the 'thats questionable hat' emoticon); also see Divide and Conquer
- Otogo-zoshi: Non-fiction narrative genre often scrolls
- Oyama: Male Kabuki actors
- Parlour Room: A reception area for acquaintances and the rabble or for hosting 5 o'clock tea in
- Pax Americana: Imperial America
- Pacific War: What Japan calls WWII
- Pedi Tribe: A South African tribe known for wearing Kilts in celebration of their victory with the Scottish over the white South Africans
- Pink Flamingoes: A 1972 camp bonanza starring Divine the filthiest woman on earth in 1972
- Pizza Effect: the phenomenon of national or ethnic culture travelling across borders and returning to the original culture; Hawaiian Pizza for example is eaten in Italy but created in Canada
- Polyculturalism: the ideological approach to the consequences of intercultural engagements within a geographical area which emphasises similarities between, and the enduring interconnectedness of, groups which self-identify as distinct, thus blurring the boundaries which may be perceived by members of those groups. Multiculturalism instead thought to emphasise difference and separateness, being divisive and harmful to social cohesion
- Pongee: a slub-woven fabric created by weaving yarns spun by varying the twist tightness of the yarn at various intervals
- Pre-Raphaelites: A series of influential British painters
- Pure Land Plane: The holiest plane of existence in Mahayana Buddhism, said to be where you reincarnate to when you reach Buddhahood
- Qiyun: The first principle of Classical Chinese art aesthetics known as Spiritual Resonance, or the ability to depict a figure as a full character to an audience
- Qiyun Bijin: The classical basis and model for Iwasa Matabei to begin his Yamato-e Bijin of a plump Chinese court noblewoman enthused with the Qiyun quality
- Racialist: Somebody who affiliates a characteristic, trait, trope or object with a particular 'race', for example White people are bad at dancing
- Ragweave: A raggedy woven textile
- Rangaku: Dutch Studies, reached their height from 1720-1855 when Japan still operated under Sakoku
- Ranma: Decorative wooden slats used in architecture
- Reed: The comb structure of the Jibata loom
- Ro Kimono: Single thinly layered or summer kimono
- Rusu moyo: A motif in a design which uses the persistent theme of absence or omittance to make an audience aware of its missing presence in the scene to highlight something like a particular emotion
- Ryu: Styles of Japanese falconry schools
- Ryukyuan Kingdom: An independent Kingdom in the southermost islands in the archipelago whose population are regarded as descendants of an ethnic group with their own traditions, customs and language from Okinawa (1372-1879); a mostly seafaring bunch they often traded with the Japanese and Koreans; many died in 1945 when the island was stormed by some nutty people
- Sakoku: Isolation policy (implemented from 1639-1859)
- Sankin Kotai: Alternate Attendance used by the Tokugawan Shoguns to stabilise Edo society after the Sengoku Jidai
- Sangha: The Buddhist community
- Sanskrit: Ancient Indian language used in the Vedas
- Samsara: The cycle of rebirth in Buddhism
- Sappho: The famous Greek Lesbian poet from Lesbos
- Sasabeni: The art of layering Beni to make it iridescent green-gold
- Sashiko: White decorative embroidery, historically a folk art used to strengthen cloth
- Sashiko no Donzu: Fishermans workcoat
- Satsuma: A clan/prefecture of Japan
- SCAP: Special Commander for the Allied Powers
- Scutching: a process which separates the impurities from the desired material, such as the woody stem from flax fibers, or the excess tree sap from graded boiled fibres of the Ito-Basho palm-leaf
- Sedimentation: A vinegar solution made from plum and safflower often used to make differentlevels of red Beni dyes
- Seigeiha: Blue Sea and Waves pattern
- Seito: Meaning Bluestocking, was a New Woman magazine which drew on the namesake from the British society of the same name which operated in the 18th century, which first published in Japan in 1911
- Sengoku Jidai: Age of the warring states; the civil wars of the Kamakura period (1333-1556)
- Senpai: You know. Senpai.
- Senryou: Dye
- Sensu: A fan
- Sex: The biological function or reproduction a mammal carries
- Sha: Heian originating summer silk made of gauze weave silk
- Shaku: a unit of measurement, also a legitimate wife
- Sheila Cliffe: A British expert on polycultural KTC
- Shibo: A crinkly bumpy texture on silks
- Shibori: Dipped Wax Tye-Dye, often done to create a larger surface pattern
- Shiino Shobei: A silkmaker known for introducing Japanese sericulture products to the West in 1873 at the Vienna International Trade Exhibition
- Shiki: The Four Seasons
- Shikomi: The youngest rank of Geiko and my personal favourite rank; a junior Maiko
- Shikomi-e: Preparation or Readying girl pictures; usually made in the Kambun era of Shikomi by pervy old men
- Shimabara: The pleasure district in Kyoto
- Shinsen: A liquid bond agent which glues dye to threads
- Shinsen O Hiinakata: The first Kosode Pattern Book by Asai Ryoi from 1667
- sôshoku kyô: Illuminated medieval manuscripts usually depicting texts like the Lotus Sutra
- Shogunate: Some warlord dudes (1603-1867)
- Shouen: Tax exempt land
- Shugo: Han Domain regional military adminstrators otherwise known as Sengoku rural warlords
- Shunga: Art Porn by any other name
- So: Cooperative medieval art bodies of Komin
- Soft-power: The ability to attract or co-opt rather than coerce to shape the preferences of others through appeal and attraction in politics or a social group
- Soukan: General supervisors of the imperial court
- 'S' shape silhouette: A particularly frequent motif used in the Kambun era in Shikomi-e, which depict women holding fans, displaying the nape and wrist, and are the modesty precursors to the Bijin-ga of Ukiyo-e.
- Statesian: The name I have gifted to people from the United States because a Britisher is not a 'European', and that shit gets heckkity confusing
- Stencil: A template used to create repeat patterns and designs on textiles
- Stereotype: an over-generalized belief about a particular category or group of people
- Strange Fruit: Southern trees bear a strange fruit, Blood on the leaves and blood at the root, Black bodies swingin' in the Southern breeze, Strange fruit hangin' from the poplar trees, Pastoral scene of the gallant South, The bulgin' eyes and the twisted mouth, Scent of magnolias sweet and fresh, Then the sudden smell of burnin' flesh, Here is a fruit for the crows to pluck, For the rain to gather, For the wind to suck, For the sun to rot, For the tree to drop, Here is a strange and bitter crop
- Subaltern Native: See Othering
- Suijin: A worldy, sophisticated about the town man, usually a Chonin
- Sulfur dying: Denim specialty black, red, pink, purple, grey, rust, mustard, and green dyed yarns repeatedly undergoing a sequence of dipping and oxidation to make dyed denim
- Sumi-E: Ink paintings
- Sumizuri-e: Monochromatic woodblock prints (made from 1590-1868)
- Sutra: A collection of aphorisms in the form of a manual/condensed manual or text written in ancient India
- Susoyoke: Skirt part of the Juban undergarment
- Takahata loom: A traditional Japanese hand weaving loom used by sitting and holding the instruments of the loom abreast, using pressure from the back and hands to strengthen the weave
- Takagari: Japanese Falconry, brought over by Koreans and popular in Japan since the 1400s
- Tairo Toshiko: A centenarian who is famous for her Bashofu woven fabric
- Taiyouzoku: Violent Youth or young subcultures active in the 1960s who discarded conservative values for a more western liberal lifestyle
- Tagalog: The Filipino language or hybrid code language
- Tagasode: Whoose sleeves?, a motif which highlights an absent womans kosode, popular from 1570-1650 among the high art groups
- Tales of Ise: First Suzumuri-e or picture book made by a merchant in 1608
- Talisman: An object ascribed with religious or magical powers intended to protect, heal, or harm individuals for whom they are made
- Tama-ito: Dense raw silk yarns woven in summer
- Tan-E: Images made between 1660-1730 which were made of 2 colours, early colour prints usually in green or yellows
- Tanmono: A bolt of Kimono fabric
- Tanrokuban: Illustrated fairy tales; the first picture book to use a two tone orange-green colour pallette in its images (published in 1624)
- Tate-Yoko-Kasuri: Warp-weft-weave
- Tayuu: A dying breed of Performers only available to the rich who set the trend for exposed napes; only 2 are thought to be exist in the current day, Aoi and her apprentice
- Tea-gown: A loungewear cover worn over Edwardian womens day dress which was worn for taking tea in, popular between 1880-1920 and often made from Kimono silk
- Tenugui: Cotton Hand towels often patterned, the equivalent of those coronation souvenir hand towels everytime its the Queens Jubilee in the UK
- Terakoya: Edo period commoner schools run by the fief
- Textile Art: The Idea that a textile is a work of Art, which the Kimono often straddles
- Textile Culture: The Culture surrounding textiles, that is how historical-socio-geo-political-economic factors played in the roles textiles were given by their users and consumers in material culture, such as societies, textile designers and craftspeople and their living traditions, knowledge and skills in creating, engaging and wearing of textiles
- Tianchao: Celestial Court or Chinese Empire, 天朝
- Tightweave: Tightly bound woven textiles
- Transculturation: The phenomenon of merging and converging cultures
- Transnational: International by any other name
- Tokaido: One of the 5 main transport routes of the Edo period
- Tokonoma: A traditional alcove found in asymmetrical Japanese room design
- Tombi: A worsted wool cloak which resembles an Inverness cape introduced in the 1880s
- Tomesode: Kimono which have black bases and a subdued often yellow pattern at their hem, formalwear usually with 3-5 Mon which are worn for events like funerals
- Toyoda: Subsidiary of the Toyota Corporation which makes Japanese traditional denim
- Tosa school: popular Japanese painting school known for its Yamato-e (1300-1500)
- Tozama Daimyou - Outer circle Lords from the battle of Sekigahara who did not support Ieyasu
- Tsujigahana: Tie Dye and Yuzen Moyo from the Momoyama period
- Tsukesage: the Houmongi's less exciting sibling, kimono made up of discreet patterns and worn as formalwear
- Tsukure obi: Pre-tied Obi
- Tsukuroi-zashi: Mending stitch, a type of decorative darning
- Tsumugi: A traditional plain woven silk
- Turdman: Whistler, otherwise known as the guy who enabled the Exotic Japon trope
- Types: The letters in a typeface, or blocks used to represent the letter 'A' in a printing press
- Uchinaaguchi: The traditional Ryukyuan language
- Uchiwa: Those square hand fans you always see at Jpop concerts and culturally appropriated by Whistler in his 1860s paintings becuase yeah Kimono Wednesdays and I am still mad
- Ukiyo-e: Floating world images; or sinful-reality-pictures for those of the Christian understanding
- Ukiyo-zoshi: Merchant Pleasure Pursuit Genre Books, Books made for the Chonin demimonde between 1680-1770
- Upcycling: The act of recycling something to upmarket it
- Uroko pattern: repeating contrasted isosceles triangular motif which is said to represent the scales of reptiles
- Urushi-E: Lacquer Images made using imitation lacquer or gloss paints
- Uta-E: Heian period symbols decoded by the reader, usually from poetry anthologies like the Manyou-Shuu (c.759CE) and expressed the events of only one line or story, found in the background of texts as images only
- U-umi: Hand-woven
- Veludo: Velvet, in use since the Nanban trade begins in the 1550s
- Wabi-Cha: The art of appreciating the transcendental passing of mundane ephemerae in a rustic style teahouse; rich people drinking tea
- Wafuku: The Japanese term for traditional Japanese clothing
- Wakaritsuke: 割り付け, Allocation
- Wakashu: Young Japanese male performer who engaged in pederasty; often aged 10-25
- Wakashu Kabuki: Refers to the young men who replaced female Kabuki stars in 1629 after women were banned from Kabuki who caused massive fights between audiences and their wealth patrons who lusted after them; their admirers were equally male and female
- Wagara: A traditional Japanese pattern which oftens holds local or emotional significance for aesthetical or cultivated purposes
- Wamono: Solely Japanese derived style things or items, also see Dai Nippon
- WASP: White Anglo Saxon Protestant
- Weaving shuttle: a tool designed to neatly and compactly store a holder that carries the thread of the weft yarn while weaving with a loom; Shuttles are thrown or passed back and forth through the loom frame, between the yarn threads
- Westernisation: The push for Japan to emulate Occidental or Western countries to attain equivalent heavy industry in the Meiji period
- Western world: The Occident; usually thought of as Europe, North America and Oceania
- White Lie: A falsehood which will not have as much of an impact as a straightup lie
- White Mans Burden: An idea pushed by the Anglo-Indian poet Rudyard Kipling that the 'White Man' must help 'the other races', and that this 'civilising mission' of bringing 'Christianity and Moral Correctness' was the 'Burden the White Man must bear', written in 'honor' of the Philippine-American war of 1898-1906 which saw 20,000 Filipino killed
- White Saviour: A white person who provides help to non-white people in a self-serving manner
- Whitewashing: glossing over or covering up unsavoury truths by dismissing them, misleading someone or using false data to gloss
- Wilsonianism: a 'progressive' branch of foreign policy in which the United States 'liberates' 'developing' countries by bringing a good ol' Murica sized bucket of 'freedom' and 'democracy' under the American exceptionalism *coughmanifestdestinycough* banner
- Woodblock Printing: Prints made with wooden blocks; this was used to create both texts and images; it was first used by Buddhist monks from 770-1000AD; it was picked up again from 1600-1900 by merchants to create printed books
- Wrist: See nape or ankle; a saucy area which was too saucy and so like the ankle was hidden from decent society in the Heian era
- Wu Zetian: Chinese Empress Regent active in the 8th century
- Yabureseigeiha: Broken waves pattern
- Yakatabune: Japanese partyboat; popular in the Edo period and Kyoto for watching the city from the many waterways before they were all renovated to oblivion by the Meiji period
- Yang Guifei: A classical Chinese Bijin known as one of the 4 classical Chinese beauties representative of plus size Tang beauty standards
- Yan Liben: Stele artist who created the Tang era Willow Guan Yin stele
- Yamada Ichirobei: Author of Rules of Etiquette for Women (1660) which is one of the Earliest Kosode-e books
- Yamato: An old Kyushu clan who most likely came from mainland Asia
- Yamato-e: Yamato pictures
- Yamato Nadeshiko: The idealised patriarchal Japanese woman figure, also see Good Wife, Wise Mother
- Yaro-Kabuki: Adult male Kabuki performers who began in the 1650s to take over from younger male actors
- Yasodhara: A founding member of Buddhism
- Yellowface: Originating in 1854 with Charley Backus 'Chinese Act', yellowface is the Asian equivalent of blackface minstrelsy
- Yellow Peril: German originating racist stereotype of 'yellow' people and their periliness (in 1895)
- Yezoshiya Hachiyemon: Printer of the Hinagata-bon or Kosode Print Design Book (1688)
- Yokai: Malevolent spirits
- Yokohama Robes: Dressing gowns made in Yokohama for the Western export market in the Meiji period
- Yofuku: Western dress
- Youmou: Wool
- Yosegi-Zaiku: Heian marquetry
- Yoshiwara: The Edo pleasure district (began in 1617)
- Youthquake: The overthrow of conservative ideals in favour of youth oriented ideals in 1960s Britain in the aftermath of WWII and the breakdown of the British Empire
- Yugen: used to describe the subtle profundity of things in reality that are only hinted at in poetry, suggesting that which is beyond what can be said in the here and now, similar to how you can the reverence for nature and the divine in a good George Price Boyce~ (particularly Girl by a Beech Tree 1867 or Hunt's Our English Coasts 1852 to a lesser extent)
- Yukaku: Legal red-light districts
- Yukata: A thin cotton or polyester nowadays kimono worn in the summer
- Yuki: Yuki is a village in Ibaraki Prefecture known for its Tsumugi silk
- Yuki Tsumugi: Darker, courser and heavier silk textiles worn often in winter
- Yujou: A woman of pleasure or a lady sex worker
- Yuukaku: Legalised pleasure district
- Yuzen Katagami: Stencils used to make Yuzenmoyo in the Taisho period which become affiliated with the Haikara-san and Moga girls
- Yuzenzome: Yuzen designs made after the style of Miyazaki Yuzen (1654-1736)
- Yuzen-moyo: Yuzen patterns
- Za: Imperial court affiliated medieval guild of Komin
- Zeami Motokiyo: A famous Noh peformer; a favourite of Arthur Waley
- Zen: A type of Buddhist doctrine, a set of teachings centered around the non-self Buddhist philosophy
- Zhao Feiyan: c.45BCE-17CE; known as a great beauty of Han China who was plucked from obscurity to live in the Imperial Palace with her sister Hede. Feiyan had a very slender build and was often compared later on with Yang Guifei due to her voluptuous Tang beauty
- Zhou Fang: A prominent Chinese court painter in the late 8th century known for his beautiful women scenes
- Zoku: Vulgar
- Zori: Wedged Foortwear part of Wafuku
Bijin-ga Timeline
- The Kanbun Master: the first founder of Ukiyo-e Bijin culture in the Kambun period known for his Shikomi-e, although he/they remain a shadowy figure of the Japanese 17th century art world (1660-1673)
- Hishikawa Moronobu: an early Japanese artist known for popularizing the ukiyo-e genre of woodblock prints and paintings by infusing his painting knowledge to his prints (1618-1694)
- Ihara Saikaku: An Osaka merchant highly proficient in writing BL and Ukiyo novels (1642-1693)
- Yoshida Hanbei: A prolific Kamagata illustrator who specialised in Buddhist E-hon and Sumizuri-e (1664-1689)
https://kimono-sakaeya.com/Tokyo/?p=4405
Visual Aids
The Name and Shame Sections
Arseholes:
Frederik Blekman
Inazo Nitobe
Lucy Hodgeon (serving us cisgender white saviour Karen realness with tens across the board for authenticity!)
"Traditional modes of dress, such as kimonos and Native American headdresses, are worn by contestants of the show to suit categories such as ‘Hello Kitty’ – read: ‘stereotypical Japanese’[read: white people getting defensive over Avril Lavigne Hello Kitty video being offensive to 'Japanese culture' even though the director was a 100% Nihonjin] – couture. This not only appropriates and mocks traditional modes of dress that often have cultural, ethnic, and religious esteem attached to them. ... Slanted eyes, pale skin, and small lips [no darling you came up with that all by yourself] were the makeup look of choice with the aforementioned kimono challenge. You can only imagine the outrage that would have occurred if cis [in other words, Ms Hodgeon: why cant I?], mainstream artists had done this. ... Yet drag queens have not received much backlash, despite the permeability of cultural appropriation within the community. So, why has it not been challenged? [Are those stunned crickets I hear?] Drag culture has long been transgressive and alternative [Yes, so alternative I used to watch it unwittingly every year as a child]. As a historically oppressed subculture, it has poked fun at the dominant society that has subordinated them by mimicking them to a gross degree [See the Kimonope]. Yet this does not mean that drag queens are exempt from the same rules as mainstream stars [Darling Rupaul is far more mainstream than your arse]. Traditional dress and culture should not be used for entertainment [entertainment here means exclusively for the benefit of white people who apparently are the sole qualified acceptability arbitrators of decisions surrounding Kimono in the Entertainment field], especially if it is warped and degraded as it often is in drag culture. If it is unacceptable in mainstream culture, it should also be so in drag culture, especially as drag starts to gain momentum in the mainstream. ...This is a worrying trend. While cultural appropriation is still frequent in the mainstream [By white cisgender millionaire females working in entertainment], it has become slightly less acceptable and more policed. This same vigilance needs to be applied to the drag community, especially as it begins to gain real traction and influence [read: white cisgender = real mainstream apparently] within pop culture. Of course the revolutionary and transgressive personality of the drag community – its foundational aspect – must be protected, yet it cannot become warped into pure cultural appropriation that undermines its countercultural core [which it never did, but Ms.Hodgeon seemingly blindsided criticising the Kardashians 'Kimono' trademark blunder to instead write disparaging articles about the LGBTQ community in the entertainment business instead of following up in 2019 as cultural appropriation of 'traditional garments' was such a vital part of her life which she deeply cares about]." - 2018
Misogynists:
Arthur Golden
Nakamura Masanao
Pierre Loti
Yone Noguchi
He deliberately deceived the three women, to whom he either pretended or promised marriage while already married.
Racists:
John Howard Ferguson
'separate but equal' -1896
James Barry Munnik Hertzog
Native Representation Bill 1936
Native Trust and Land Bill 1936
Urban Areas Amendment Bill 1937
Adolf
Rudyard Kipling
'White Mans Burden' -1899
Arthur MacArthur
'Ready.Aim.Fire!' February 5 1899 Battle of Manila
Douglas MacArthur
"Measured by the standards of modern civilization, [Japan] would be like a boy of twelve as compared with [the Anglo-Saxon] development of 45 years." - 1951
Henry Luther Long
'You thing mebby he keer yaet for me? No! He got come an' fight. An' I lig jus' see him-if he come, of course. Me? I don' keer liddle bit!' - 1898
Whoever is responsible for this mess:-
Woodrow Wilson
May I turn your attention to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodrow_Wilson_and_race a man who no less than peddled the Lost Cause Myth for the majority of his career, encouraged Manifest Destiny and American Exceptionalism from 1885-1902, fired the majority of POC working fro the Statesian government in the Edwardian era (long live the queen) from his time in office of 1912 on, invading mexico in 1914, invaded Haiti in 1915-1934, screened the white supremacist film 'The Birth of the Nation' at the White House in 1915, invaded the Dominican Republic from 1916-1924, passed the 1917 Espionage Act to curtail free speech about his work, setting up the 1917-1940 Negro Subversion taskforce to spy on POC whilst lynching was at its height from 1918-1921, passed the 1918-1920 Sedition Act to curtail free speech about his work, dismissed Ho Chi Minh at the 1919 peace talks in Versailles, denied Japan the Racial Equality Proposal in 1919 which may have prevented Japan from joining WWII on the grounds that they were defending themselves from Western Imperialism, pushed forward Jim Crow and Segregation Legislation and Wilsonianism or US interventionism is to thank for the series of Lost Wars as the Russian Intervention in 1918-1920, Korean War, the Vietnam War, the Nicaragua Intervention, the Gulf War, the Iraq and Afghanistan wars, occupying most of South America and starting the Cold War.
References
Ambiguity of the Gender of Avalokiteśvara in the Sui-Tang period: A Comparative Study of India & China, Huang Lele, 2021, Volume 1, Number 1, Online, pp.31-42, Journal of History, Art and Archaeology, Academic Research Foundations India | See https://arfjournals.com/image/57413_4_huang.pdf
Admonitions of the Court Instructress, Gu Kaizhi, c406, Panel 1-9
Allegorizing Aryanism: Fernand Cormon's The Human Races, Maria P Gindhart, 2008, Volume 9, Online Edition, The Journal of the History of Art (Aurora), WAPACC Organization
Allied Occupation of Japan, Eiji Takemae, 2003, pp.6-7 | See https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Ba5hXsfeyhMC&pg=PA7&lpg=PA7&dq=Macarthur+boy+of+12+japan&source=bl&ots=zCWRz2JKwM&sig=ACfU3U2yVzbxXPKhsxIIudaoSyEeGqVQRg&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjp0b7IhZ_6AhWEnVwKHRmVBVoQ6AF6BAgUEAM#v=onepage&q=Macarthur%20boy%20of%2012%20japan&f=false
An illustration of the Ise monogatari : Matabei and the Two Worlds of Ukiyo, Sanoy Kita, 1984, pp.252-258, The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art
A New Life for Literati Painting in the Early Twentieth Century: Eastern Art and Modernity, a Transcultural Narrative?, Aida-Yuen Wong, 2000, Vol. 60, No. 2, pp. 297-326, Artibus Asiae Publishers
A Study on “New Kimono” in the Magazine SUTAIRU edited by UNO Chiyo, Matsuo Ryoko, 2023, pp.165-175, Volume 16 Yamaguchi Prefectural University | https://ypir.lib.yamaguchi-u.ac.jp/yp/journals/yp000005/v/16/i/%E5%9B%BD%E9%9A%9B%E6%96%87%E5%8C%96%E5%AD%A6%E9%83%A8%E7%B4%80%E8%A6%81/item/1754
Beauty (Mei, 美) in the Zhuangzi and Contemporary Theories of Beauty, Peng Feng, 2020, Volume 54, No.2, pp.22-34, The Journal of Aesthetic Education | https://fh.pku.edu.cn/docs/2020-04/20200415132901819403.pdf
Begin Japanology : Nishijin-Ori, Peter Barakan, 2009, Season 2, Episode 1, NHK
Britain & Japan : Biographical portraits Vol X, Hugh Cortazzi, 2016, pp.481-487
Byōbu: The Art of the Japanese Screen, Michael R. Cunningham, September 1984, Vol. 71, No. 7, pp.223-224, The Bulletin of the Cleveland Museum of Art | https://www.jstor.org/stable/25159871?searchText=%22machi-eshi%22&searchUri=%2Faction%2FdoBasicSearch%3FQuery%3D%2522machi-eshi%2522%26so%3Drel&ab_segments=0%2Fbasic_phrase_search%2Fcontrol&refreqid=fastly-default%3A1590105ae019ce969bc9bbc38dc80178&seq=4#metadata_info_tab_contents
Cartographies of Desire: Male-Male Sexuality in Japanese Discourse, 1600–1950, Gregory Pflugfelder, 2007, pp.55-73
Chinese Myths, Anne Birrell, 2000, pp.46-50, British Musuem Press
Chinese Palace-Style Poetry and the Depiction of a Palace Beauty, Ellen Johnston Laing, June 1990, Vol. 72, No. 2, pp.284-290, The Art Bulletin
Craftsmen of Shujin Brocade | https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMy0Ve8pKMg
Diaries of Richard Cocks from Diary of Richard Cocks, Cape-merchant in the English Factory in Japan, 1615-1622, Richard Cocks, 1882[2014], pp.Preface-349
Elegant or Common? Chen Hongshou's Birthday Presentation Pictures and His Professional Status, Anne Burkus-Chasson, June 1994, Vol. 76, No. 2, p.280, The Art Bulletin
Empire of Culture: US Entertainers and the Making of the Pacific Circuit; 1850-1890, Matthew Wittman, 2010, pp.62-69
Fertility And Pleasure: Ritual And Sexual Values in Tokugawa Japan, William Lindsey, 2007, p.10
Five O’clock Tea, Housewife, 20 June 1878, p.489, The Queen or The Lady's Newspaper & Court Chronicle
From the Tokugawa period to the Meiji Restoration, Eijiro Honjo, July 1932, Vol. 7, pp.32-51, Kyoto University Economic Review
Geisha, Liza Dalby, 1983, p.200
Genre Painting: Evoking the Charm and Cheer of the Commoners, Morita Tohru, Burritt Saben, Jane Whalley, Yoshikawa Shigehisa, Nomura Shoji, Watanabe Minako, Masaki Yoko, October 1991, Vol.28, No.4, pp.31-37, The East, Singapore National Printers Ltd. | https://archive.org/details/sim_east_november-december-1992_28_4/page/34/mode/1up?q=%22machi-eshi%22&view=theater
Health Exhibition Literature, Executive Council of the International Health Exhibition, Council for the Society of the Arts, 1884, p.605 | https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=2fYTAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA605&dq=sashiko&hl=en&newbks=1&newbks_redir=0&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiTptDkm-37AhUxTEEAHbStBKcQuwV6BAgEEAY#v=onepage&q=sashiko&f=false
Helpers at the Scottish Exhibition, Margaret Kilroy, April 5 1910, p.455, Votes for Women Newspaper, Women's Social and Political Union
Heian Period (794–1185), Metropolitan Musuem of Arts, 2002, Online | https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/heia/hd_heia.htm
Hinagata Bon: The Art Institute of Chicago Collection of Kimono Pattern Books, Betty Y. Siffert, 1992 p.86, Art Institute of Chicago Museum Studies
History of the Fukui Silk Textile Association of Japan, Buntaro Matsui, 1921, pp.7-21
http://blog.tuad.ac.jp/prizeworks/?p=145
http://char.txa.cornell.edu/japantex.htm
http://costume.mini.icom.museum/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2020/08/9.-Kimono-for-the-Western-Market_-Two-Women-Two-Kimono-by-Cynthia-Amn%C3%A9us.pdf
http://en.chinaculture.org/2017-05/04/content_998481.htm#:~:text=Chinese%20ancestors%20became%20adults%20at,00%2Dyear%2Dold%20history.
http://japanesetextileworkshops.blogspot.com/2010/08/backstrap-looms.html
http://nationalclothing.org/asia/28-japan/329-meisen-kimonos-launched-a-new-trend-in-japanese-folk-fashion-in-the-early-20th-century.html
http://project-japan.jp/asanoha/#:~:text=It's%20a%20pattern%20that%20has,wish%20for%20children's%20healthy%20growth.
http://project-japan.jp/seigaiha/
http://ryukyukasuri.com/?page_id=257
http://tweedlandthegentlemansclub.blogspot.com/2015/07/the-most-wicked-daisy-fellowes.html
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:iJvC1r3EAZYJ:https://medium.com/pomme-de-terre/the-sexist-history-behind-the-development-of-hiragana-e9f5676ab1f9&hl=en&gl=uk&strip=1&vwsrc=0
http://www.aisf.or.jp/~jaanus/deta/b/beni.htm
http://www.aisf.or.jp/~jaanus/deta/b/benie.htm
http://www.aisf.or.jp/~jaanus/deta/m/machieshi.htm
http://www.aisf.or.jp/~jaanus/deta/s/seigaiha.htm
http://www.aisf.or.jp/~jaanus/deta/t/tagasode.htm
http://www.aisf.or.jp/~jaanus/deta/u/urushie.htm
http://www.bashofu.jp/
http://www.britainusa.com/sections/articles_show_nt1_d_0_i_41110_L1_41013_L2_41013_a_28485.html
http://www.crcworks.org/sumangil.pdf
http://www.csstoday.com/Item/3557.aspx
http://www.fragmentsmag.com/en/2014/06/ami-tsumuli-4/
http://www.historyofclothing.com/clothing-history/hanfu/#:~:text=Hanfu%20appeared%20in%20China%20more,Dynasty%2C%20from%201600BC%20to%201000BC.
http://www.historyofjeans.com/jeans-history/history-of-denim/
http://www.japonic.com/obi/obi24.htm
http://www.johnmarshall.to/H-TradTech-Tategasuri.htm
http://www.jtco.or.jp/en/japanese-crafts/?act=detail&id=252&p=36&c=33
http://www.kimono.or.jp/dictionary/eng/benibanatsumugi.html
http://www.salz-tokyo.com/chichibu-meisen-museum-nassen-dyeing/
http://www.textetc.com/workshop/wt-du-fu-2.html
http://www.visual-arts-cork.com/history-of-art/japonism.htm
https://ameblo.jp/yoshiko-artlife/entry-12256427146.html
https://arteingiappone.altervista.org/en/butterflies-in-japanese-and-western-art/
https://artgallery.yale.edu/collections/objects/109899
https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/horie-monogatari-emaki-illustrated-tale-of-horie-iwasa-marabei/wAGvQnBxpyKeAw?hl=en
https://artsandculture.google.com/story/shu-brocade-the-earliest-brocade-in-china/hwKC7Tji8PKvJw
https://asianbotanical.ku.edu/plum-0
https://asiasociety.org/buddhism-china#:~:text=It%20was%20brought%20to%20China,of%20Buddhism's%20success%20was%20Daoism.
https://asiasociety.org/education/buddhism-japan#:~:text=Traveling%20along%20this%20route%2C%20Mahayana,several%20volumes%20of%20Buddhist%20text)
https://badgayspod.com/episode-archive/s6e5-andr-gide
https://bartokdesign.com/wood/the-king-of-trees-hinoki.php
https://becos.tsunagujapan.com/en/kyo-sensu-fans/
https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/kimono-fabrics
https://blog.patra.com/2017/06/28/the-different-types-of-silk/
https://blogs.bl.uk/asian-and-african/2020/02/exquisite-patterns-japanese-textile-design-books.html
https://books.google.com/ngrams/graph?content=National+costume&year_start=1500&year_end=2019&corpus=en-2019&smoothing=0&case_insensitive=true
https://chumediahub.wordpress.com/2021/02/12/influential-japanese-women-sada-yacco/
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_of_the_Tang_Dynasty
https://collection.artbma.org/objects/41873/buddhist-priests-robe-kesa-in-karaori-with-floral-designs
https://collections.reading.ac.uk/special-collections/2022/12/16/the-new-woman-five-women-writers-of-the-1890s/
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O18904/firemans-hood-unknown/
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O87849/kimono/
https://cris.brighton.ac.uk/ws/portalfiles/portal/4755630/Binder1.pdf
https://cyclicity.net/2020/12/17/japonisme-in-fashion/
https://db2.the-noh.com/edic/2018/03/donsu.html
https://desispeaks.com/wakashu/
https://dictionary.lingual-ninja.com/dictionary/%E5%B0%8F%E7%94%BA%E7%B4%85
https://duendebymadamzozo.com/traditional-japanese-patterns/?utm_source=pinterest&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=social-pug
https://easternimp.blogspot.com/2015/09/sadayakko-through-artists-eyes-part-1.html
https://easternimp.blogspot.com/2015/09/sadayakko-through-artists-eyes-part-2.html
https://eclecticlight.co/2017/05/02/chinese-narrative-painting-the-nymph-of-the-luo-river/
https://en.yame.travel/crafts/kurume-kasuri/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air_raids_on_Japan
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Algerian_War#:~:text=War%20crimes%20committed%20during%20the,million%20Algerians%20to%20concentration%20camps.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ao_(turtle)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asai_Ry%C5%8Di
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asuka_period
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avalokite%C5%9Bvara
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benizuri-e
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bijin-ga
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bhavacakra
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackface
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Tortoise
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burning_of_books_and_burying_of_scholars
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaya_Shir%C5%8Djir%C5%8D
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiyo_Uno
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cultural_appropriation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cultural_depictions_of_turtles#Japan
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daisy_Fellowes
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denim
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demographic_history_of_Japan_before_the_Meiji_Restoration#Population_during_the_Edo_and_early_Meiji_eras_(1600_to_1873)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diaochan
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ding_Ling
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duke_Ling_of_Wey
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edith_Craig
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edo_society#Four_Classes
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ejima-Ikushima_affair
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emakimono#Court_style:_onna-e
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fenghuang
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florence_Farr#Later_life
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four_Beauties
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four_occupations
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gu_Kaizhi
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guanyin
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_Tea_Room
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Habutai
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hakuhou_period
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanabusa_Itch%C5%8D
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_fan#Japanese_hand_fan
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hata_clan
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heian_period
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hishikawa_Moronobu#Work
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hundred_Schools_of_Thought#School_of_%22Minor-talks%22
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Military_history_of_Japan#Kamakura_period_(1185%E2%80%931333)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ihara_Saikaku
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ikat
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imperial_Seal_of_Japan
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impermanence
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iwasa_Matabei
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_bamboo_weaving
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_clothing_during_the_Meiji_period
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_currency
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_painting#Azuchi%E2%80%93Momoyama_period_(1573%E2%80%931615)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jia_Nanfeng
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kabuki
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaigetsud%C5%8D_Ando
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kanbun_Master
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kan%C5%8D_Ein%C5%8D
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kan%C5%8D_Motonobu
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kan%C5%8D_Naizen
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kasaya_(clothing)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kasuri
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kij%C5%8Dka-bash%C5%8Dfu
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Koreans_in_Japan#Heian_period_(794_to_1185)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kusumi_Morikage
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ky%C5%8Dh%C5%8D_Reforms#Purpose_of_the_reforms
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lady_Nanzi
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lapis_lazuli
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marshall_Plan
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miyazaki_Y%C5%ABzen
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mogao_Caves#
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Momijigari_(play)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mook_(publishing)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Putuo
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nara_period
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nanban_art
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nanban_trade
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Woman
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Night_soil#Japan
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nishikawa_Sukenobu
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C5%8Cgimi
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pure_land
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rice_broker
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruqun
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sada_Yacco
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sakai_H%C5%8Ditsu
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sankin-k%C5%8Dtai
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Six_principles_of_Chinese_painting
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shangguan_Wan%27er
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shunga
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereotypes_of_East_Asians_in_the_United_States#:~:text=In%20media%2C%20East%20Asian%20women,with%20their%20child's%20academic%20performance.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugimura_Jihei
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzanne_Belperron
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Takagari
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Takashimaya
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tawaraya_S%C5%8Dtatsu
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torii_Kiyonobu_
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torii_school
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tosa_Mitsunori
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tosa_school
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ukiyo-e
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ukiyo-z%C5%8Dshi
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Urashima_Tar%C5%8D
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wabi-cha
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watanabe_Shik%C5%8D
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_supremacy
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Adams_(pilot)#Establishment_of_an_English_trading_factory
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winnaretta_Singer
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodblock_printing_in_Japan
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xi_Shi
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yang_Guifei
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yan_Liben
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yasuke
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yoshida_Hanbei
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Y%C5%ABki-tsumugi
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zhou_Fang_(Tang_dynasty)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zhuang_Zhou
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoku#1950s/60s
https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/egology
https://gradynewsource.uga.edu/being-a-woman-in-a-confucian-household/
https://graindemusc.blogspot.com/2008/11/schiaparelli-shocking-hot-pink-and.html
https://hali.com/news/meisen-kimono/
https://hellopoetry.com/poem/14731/the-beautiful-xi-shi/
https://indigoniche.com/2018/06/26/sashiko-origins-and-designs/#:~:text=Sashiko%20is%20a%20Japanese%20folk,in%20repeating%20or%20interlocking%20patterns.
https://inf.news/en/culture/2e8d83ca5020b771bee089116aee7cd7.html
https://int.kateigaho.com/articles/tradition/patterns-13/
https://int.kateigaho.com/articles/tradition/patterns-19/
https://int.kateigaho.com/articles/tradition/patterns-15/#:~:text=The%20name%20of%20the%20pattern,to%20fish%20and%20snake%20scales.&text=From%20the%20Muromachi%20period%20(1336,ogres%20and%20incarnation%20of%20snakes
https://int.kateigaho.com/articles/tradition/patterns-29/
https://int.kateigaho.com/articles/tradition/patterns-30/
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1898-tea-gown/
https://fashiondocbox.com/Accessories/70488710-Toomey-1-kosode-and-the-class-system-of-edo-period-japan-caroline-toomey-art-history-106-art-in-east-asia.html
https://fpif.org/the-racist-underpinnings-of-the-american-way-of-war/
https://furifu.com/en/news/en-items/2199/
https://home.ginza.kokosil.net/en/archives/72310
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E5%85%83%E7%A6%84%E6%96%87%E5%8C%96
https://japan-avenue.com/blogs/japan/japanese-folding-fans-history
https://japanobjects.com/features/japanese-fans
https://japantoday.com/category/features/lifestyle/miss-universe-japan-picks-%27sailor-moon%27-ninja-transformation-dress-as-national-costume-for-2018
https://japantoday.com/category/national/barrage-of-complaints-force-miss-universe-japan-to-change-costume-for-finals
https://kelownaartgallery.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Geisha-to-Diva-Exhibition-Guide-official-1.pdf
https://kiddolovesit.wordpress.com/2014/04/03/always-the-bridesmaid-but-never-the-bride-the-curious-case-of-the-united-kingdom-in-miss-universe/
https://kirikomade.com/blogs/our-fabrics/japanese-patterns-1
https://kirikomade.com/blogs/our-fabrics/japanese-patterns-2
https://kogeijapan.com/locale/en_US/nibutaniattoushi/
https://kokoro-jp.com/culture/2460/
https://ktaylor-lotus.com/inventory/j15-5244
https://kyoto-asahiya.com/products/polyester-furoshiki-chiyo-uno-hanasakizakura
https://languagelog.ldc.upenn.edu/nll/?p=35615#:~:text=In%20any%20case%2C%20the%20association,on%20in%20the%201980s%20nationally
https://library.fvtc.edu/GenderEducation/LoveTypes
https://lilyabsinthe.com/category/fashion-history/japonisme/
https://littleaugury.blogspot.com/2014/01/daisy-roars.html
https://mag.japaaan.com/archives/113368
https://mangadejapan.com/articles/detail/244
https://manga.fandom.com/wiki/Yamato-e
https://mei-24.livejournal.com/10380.html
https://metro.co.uk/2010/08/17/tara-vaitiere-hoyos-british-bid-for-miss-universe-dresses-as-beefeater-482213/
https://metropolisjapan.com/based-in-japan-kurume-kasuri/
https://mimimatthews.wordpress.com/2016/03/29/japonisme-the-japanese-influence-on-victorian-fashion/?preview_id=10191&preview_nonce=614a9f7d5b&post_format=standard&preview=true
https://mostbeautifulgenji.tumblr.com/post/80568794417/chapter-20-the-morning-glory
https://nalatanalata.com/journal/motifs-in-japanese-design/#:~:text=In%20Japanese%20culture%2C%20butterflies%20carry,number%20of%20traditional%20family%20crests.
https://news.artnet.com/art-world/a-history-of-butterflies-in-art-2085638#:~:text=In%20Japan%2C%20the%20butterfly%20has,of%20female%20ritual%20and%20experience.
https://news.cgtn.com/news/2019-08-05/Would-magpies-help-reunite-China-s-mythological-lovers--IUw0yXfUL6/index.html [BEWARE]
https://nitta-yonezawa.com/en/benibana
https://nomurakakejiku.com/lesson_lineup/mujou
https://oriyasan.com/en/koe/20200901/
https://patrons.org.es/kyoto-capital-of-artistic-imagination/
https://pen-online.com/design/seigaiha-the-wave-motif-inspiring-contemporary-french-fashion/#:~:text=The%20Seigaiha%20wave%20is%20an,seas%20and%20oceans%20on%20maps.
https://picryl.com/media/standing-lady-fixing-her-hair-c65e8a
https://polinacouture.com/en/the-meaning-of-patterns-on-japanese-fabrics/
https://polinacouture.com/en/the-meaning-of-patterns-on-japanese-fabrics/#diagonal-fence-higaki-or-ajiro
https://propertyinsight.com.my/why-does-vmgzcs/sparrow-symbolism-japan-24ab02
https://quod.lib.umich.edu/a/ars/13441566.0047.006/--sartorial-identity-early-modern-japanese-textile-patterns?rgn=main&view=fulltext#N2
https://rcwg.scrippscollege.edu/blog/acquisition-essays/the-highlights-of-the-collection-noh-theater-robe/
https://reader.exacteditions.com/issues/43418/page/90
https://redcastheritage.com/pages/history-of-japanese-denim
https://redflag.org.au/article/crimes-french-imperialism
https://richardsamuel888.wordpress.com/2021/01/14/riyo-mori-miss-universe-2007-wore-sytlish-kimono-during-the-pageant-beauty-that-year/
https://rosha.jp/faq/02_about_ro-sha/ro_sha_chigai/
https://sake-shichiken.com/300_years_of_history
https://soranews24.com/2015/07/17/kimono-artisans-hope-to-revive-dying-industry-by-taking-kimono-to-new-york-fashion-week/
https://soranews24.com/2021/12/15/miss-universe-2021-japan-entry-slammed-for-wearing-dead-persons-kimono/
https://subcultz.com/ivy-league-japan-1964/#:~:text=The%20first%20Japanese%20to%20adopt,means%20subculture%20or%20social%20group)
https://summerballads.wordpress.com/2020/10/02/akiko-kojima-wanita-asia-pertama-yang-menjadi-miss-universe/
https://sumono.design/japanese-fabric-bolts/wool-kasuri-ikat-woven-full-bolt-japanese-fabric
https://theardentthread.com/2010/02/03/awa-shijira-ori/
https://theculturetrip.com/europe/france/articles/how-the-history-of-denim-can-be-traced-back-to-nimes/
https://the-japan-news.com/news/article/0007887290
https://the-history-girls.blogspot.com/2017/03/sadayakko-in-london-by-lesley-downer.html
https://thekimonogallery.tumblr.com/post/162977389835/kakekotoba-what-fascinates-me-most-of-all
https://themeisle.com/blog/history-of-blogging/
https://tokyofashion.com/page/10/?s=kimono
https://twitter.com/tsubaki_an/status/772440228942319616
https://uk.hotels.com/go/japan/senso-ji-temple
https://voyapon.com/kimono-japanese-traditional-clothing/
https://wattention.com/meisen-the-funky-kimono/
https://www.2021chengdu.com/activity/news/newsDetail?id=11440&lang=en&cid=jd_ms
https://www.aa.com.tr/en/analysis/analysis-france-still-not-paid-for-humanitarian-crimes-committed-in-africa/2647914
https://www.academia.edu/18981047/Momiji_the_Maple_Leaf_on_Monet_s_Kimono (supposedly an essay, looks more like a toddlers first time in word 2007)
https://www.aisf.or.jp/~jaanus/deta/a/ajiro.htm
https://www.akariya2.com/kimono2015-5-27.html
https://www.arket.com/en_gbp/about/knowledge/habotai.html#:~:text=Knowledge%20Habotai%20(or%20habutai)%20means,in%20Japan%2C%20Korea%20and%20China.
https://www.athreadedneedle.com/blogs/with-a-threaded-needle/sashiko-kogin-hitomezashi-boro-what-are-we-stitching
https://www.britannica.com/art/Fujiwara-style
https://www.britannica.com/biography/Iwasa-Matabei
https://www.britannica.com/biography/Nishikawa-Sukenobu
https://www.britishartstudies.ac.uk/issues/issue-index/issue-11/little-theatres
https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/term/BIOG1412
https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/term/BIOG3703
https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/term/BIOG4068
https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/term/BIOG6262
https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/term/BIOG7145
https://www.buddhistdoor.net/features/kesa-robes-of-patched-perfection
https://www.chinadiscovery.com/sichuan/chengdu/shu-brocade-embroidery-museum.html
https://www.chinasage.info/symbols/birds.htm#XLXLSymSwallow
https://www.chinatravel.com/culture/chinese-brocade
https://www.christies.com/features/5-Victorian-beauties-and-what-they-tell-us-about-the-time-in-which-they-were-painted-6799-1.aspx
https://www.coopertoons.com/caricatures/augusterodin_bio.html
https://www.daidoh-limited.com/english/company/history.html
https://www.dokidokikimono.com/kimono/kimono-patterns-asanoha-%E9%BA%BB%E3%81%AE%E8%91%89/
https://www.dunhuang.ds.lib.uw.edu/dunhuang-cave-donors-%E6%95%A6%E7%85%8C%E7%9F%B3%E7%AA%9F%E4%BE%9B%E5%85%BB%E4%BA%BA/
https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/a22804481/japan-tokyo-ame-tra-american-traditionalist-style-fashion/
https://www.faburiq.com/blog/2014/10/21/0wtatbkndhaesj8ccxt6a9wq8878nm
https://www.facebook.com/Kimono-SK-180754161968429/photos/kimono-dress-for-miss-mexico-at-miss-latino-usa-fashion-show-produced-by-virgeli/1201928273184341
https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/uk/lifestyle/a43641745/gold-state-coach/
https://www.google.com/maps/contrib/109015429734549306064/place/ChIJe1KuE1ekQTUROpTXrNam148/@33.3159088,130.5160818,17z/data=!3m1!4b1
https://www.historyisgaypodcast.com/notes/2019/10/14/episode-25-chrysanthemums-and-goldenbums
https://www.historyofroyalwomen.com/queen-wang-zhaojun/queen-wang-zhaojun-the-precious-jewel-that-the-emperor-deeply-regretted-losing/
https://www.ibtimes.co.uk/miss-universe-2012-national-costume-show-photos-415485
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0016276/reviews?ref_=tt_urv
https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/beefeater-a-yellow-tree-and-an-entire-hockey-game-miss-universe-s-bizarre-national-costumes-9999220.html
https://www.insider.com/miss-universe-wildest-national-costumes-from-pageant-2021-5#miss-great-britain-jeanette-akua-channeled-bridgerton-with-her-royal-ensemble-complete-with-a-glittering-tiara-and-extravagant-cape-18
https://www.insider.com/most-iconic-miss-universe-looks-of-all-time-2019-12#akiko-kojima-of-japan-wowed-in-a-traditional-outfit-before-winning-the-1959-event-23
https://www.inspirationsstudios.com/the-history-of-sashiko/
https://www.interactiongreen.com/history-japanese-aesthetics/
https://www.iz2.or.jp/english/fukusyoku/wayou/index.htm
https://www.japanese-wiki-corpus.org/culture/Chayatsuji.html
https://www.japanese-wiki-corpus.org/culture/Hikari-beni%20(red%20pigment%20made%20from%20safflowers).html
https://www.japanese-wiki-corpus.org/culture/Seigaiha%20(a%20program%20of%20gagaku%20[ancient%20Japanese%20court%20dance%20and%20music]).html
https://www.japanese-wiki-corpus.org/history/Machi-shu.html
https://www.japanese-wiki-corpus.org/literature/Momiji%20no%20Ga.html
https://www.japanese-wiki-corpus.org/literature/Momiji%20no%20Ga.html#:~:text=Momiji%20no%20Ga%20(%E7%B4%85%E8%91%89%E8%B3%80,next%20autumn%20at%20age%2019
https://www.japantimes.co.jp/culture/2014/11/06/arts/openings-in-tokyo/tagasode-screens-kimono-painting-theme/
https://www.japantimes.co.jp/life/2016/03/26/style/designer-jotaro-saito-seeks-free-kimono-confines-tradition/
https://www.kimono-gara.com/season/natsu/amine/
https://www.kimono-kyoto.jp/mt/archives/2008/02/post_119.html
https://www.kosho.or.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=330716252
https://www.kunaicho.go.jp/event/sannomaru/tokubetuten.html
https://www.kyohaku.go.jp/eng/theme/floor1_4/past/1F-4_20200102.html
https://www.lavenderhome.co.uk/pages/the-meaning-history-of-traditional-japanese-patterns
https://www.letempsdebroder.com/en/articles-en/japanese-embroidery/
https://www.lib.yamagata-u.ac.jp/database/benibana/bunken/note.html
https://www.medievalists.net/2020/08/medieval-cinderella/
https://www.meisenkimonocollection.com/thestoryofmeisen
https://www.mercari.com/jp/items/m94362956778/?_s=U2FsdGVkX18F097cGLcsvohYmGrNvnTAfsWhc4-6oKs_xkzqJ4i7MAlfniAuHdt4L4PY6p2-tA2F7ukqWB3ikzHWWdkgBtW3U-jULkO6pCWdh9XKAxtxInFbUfoTdRqp
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search#!?q=Iida%20%26%20Co.%2FTakashimaya&perPage=20&sortBy=Relevance&offset=0&pageSize=0
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/57664
https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/plea/hd_plea.htm
https://www.minnanokimono.com/tejido-obi-hakata/
https://www.mitchellparkdomes.com/articles/mums-basics#:~:text=%22The%20chrysanthemum%20was%20first%20cultivated,have%20the%20power%20of%20life
https://www.moaart.or.jp/en/collections/066/
https://www.myjapanesehanga.com/home/articles/bijin-kuchi-e-and-taisho-era-popular-magazines.html
https://www.nippon.com/en/guide-to-japan/b08104/
https://www.nippon.com/en/japan-data/h00478/traditional-japanese-patterns.html
https://www.oki-islandguide.com/specialfeatures/pride-of-okinawa-basho-fu
https://www.onmarkproductions.com/html/ho-oo-phoenix.shtml
https://www.prestigeonline.com/th/jewellery/cartier-udyana-necklace/
https://www.readex.com/blog/connecticut-webster-slavery-joshua-kendall
https://www.rekihaku.ac.jp/english/exhibitions/plant/project/old/181030/index.html
https://www.rhs-japan.org/en/tourism/ryukyukasurikaikan/
https://www.rundetaarn.dk/en/event/meisen-kimono-2/
https://www.salz-tokyo.com/chichibu-meisen-hogushi-weaving/
https://www.schwarzmanscholars.org/events-and-news/confucianism-feminism-conflict-new-understanding-necessary/
https://www.selvedge.org/blogs/selvedge/bashofu
https://www.susanbriscoe.com/product-page/h-2031-sashiko-panel-arare-kikkou-traditional-pattern
https://www.tanihata.co.jp/english/monyou/asanoha.htm
https://www.thejapaneseshop.co.uk/blog/japanese-symbolic-animals-meanings/
https://www.theparisreview.org/blog/2018/03/30/noah-websters-american-english/
https://www.trc-leiden.nl/trc/index.php/en/blog/496-japanese-noh-theatre-garments
https://www.vam.ac.uk/blog/news/japanese-meisen-dyeing
https://www.vamakitchens.net/products/amime
https://www.viewingjapaneseprints.net/texts/ukiyoe/sugimura_jihei.html
https://www.viewingjapaneseprints.net/texts/ukiyoe/sukenobu.html
https://www.viewingjapaneseprints.net/texts/ukiyoe/yoshida_hanbei.html
https://www.vintag.es/2022/07/akiko-kojima.html
https://www.wafuku.co.uk/glossary
https://www.wisdomlib.org/definition/pandaravasini
https://www.woolmark.com/industry/use-wool/wool-processing/japan-wool-textile-company/
https://www.world.jal.co.jp/world/en/guidetojapan/detail/index.html?spot_code=nishijinori
https://www.wowshack.com/the-amazing-story-of-ikat-how-a-textile-wove-itself-into-indonesian-history/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzPtzcTEdoI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YupIdd5DMn0
Huizong's New Clothes, 2009, Vol. 36, p.113, Ars Orientalis
Intentions: The decay of lying; Pen; pencil; and poison; The critic as artist; The truth of masks, Oscar Wilde, Percival Pollard, 1889[1891,1905], p.47
Interiors Imagined: Folding Screens, Garments, and Clothing Stands, Terry Satsuki Milhaupt, 2009, metmuseum.org (Accessed 27/11/2021) | https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/fold/hd_fold.htm
International Textiles, Stephen Higginson, 2005, Vol. 843, pp.unknown, Benjamin Dent & Co
Japan Encyclopedia, Louis Frederic, 2002, p.109
Japanese Art, Aesthetics, and a European Discourse: Unraveling Sharawadgi, Wybe Kuitert, 2014, No.27, p.86, Japan Review
Japanese Immigrant Clothing in Hawaii 1885-1941, Barbara F. Kawakami, 1995, pp.104-105
Japanese Kinbyobu: The Gold Leafed Folding Screens of the Muromachi Period (1333-1573) P. II-IV, Bettina Klein, Carolyn Wheelwright, 1984, Vol. 45, pp.101-102, Artibus Asiae Publishers
Japanese Painting, Terukazu Akiyama, 1977, pp.162-165 | https://archive.org/details/japanesepainting00akiy/page/165/mode/2up
Japanese Zen Buddhist Philosophy, '5.3 Zen’s Meaning of Not Two', Anonymous, 2006[2019], Stanford Encyclopedia of Philosophy (Accessed 27/11/2021) | https://plato.stanford.edu/entries/japanese-zen/
Japonisme in Britain - A Source of Inspiration: T. Dogwhistler, Mortimer Menpes, George Henry, E.A. Hornel and nineteenth century Japan, Ayako Ono, 2001, pp.5-176, Glasgow University
Kori Torahiko and Edith Craig: A Japanese Playwright in London and Toronto, Yoko Chiba, 1996-1997, p.445, Comparative Drama
Kimono and Colony, Rie Mori, 2011, pp.85-91, Voices from Japan
Kimono: Fashioning Culture, Liza Dalby, 1993
Kuan-yin ; The Chinese transformation of Avalokitesvara, Chün-fang Yü, 2001, pp.291-296
Kyoto and Nara: Rough Guides Snapshot Japan, Rough Guides, 2014
Les milieux japonisants a Paris 1860-1880, Genevieve Lacambre, 1980, p.43, The Society for the Study of Japonisme (Edited), Tokyo
Li Bai's eight poems about Xi Shi, Liang Ying, September 2011, Volume 1, No.3, pp.159-161 Journal of Literature and Art Studies, ISSN 2159-5836 | https://www.davidpublisher.com/Public/uploads/Contribute/551e2b55bf6fd.pdf
Memorials of the Empire of Japon in the XVI & XVII Centuries, L T. Rundell, 1850, pp.17-88
Murasaki Nikki, 973-1020, Murasaki Shikibu, p.N/A
On Media Moguls and Racist Tropes, Vicki Mayer, Alice Pavanello, 2022, pp.70-74, Volume 24, Online, Journalism & Communication Monographs, SAGE Publishing
Purveyors of Power: Artisans and Political Relations in Japan‘s Late Medieval Age, Paula Renée Curtis, 2011, pp.33-50 | https://etd.ohiolink.edu/apexprod/rws_etd/send_file/send?accession=osu1306860342&disposition=inline
Put's Original California Songster, John A Stone, 1868, p.62 | Available at https://archive.org/details/putsoriginalcali00ston/page/n63/mode/1up
Reconsidering the Japanese Industrial Revolution: Local Entrepreneurs in the Cotton Textile Industry during the Meiji Era, Naofumi Nakamura, January 2014, pp.23-44, Social Science Japan Journal 18
Reflections on the Floating World, Rossella Menegazzo, 2020, pp.10-17 | https://rfacdn.nz/artgallery/assets/media/2020-reflections-on-the-floating-world-gallery-publication.pdf
Review for 'Examination and Identification of the Forging of Ancient Calligraphy and Painting' in Xu Bangda Review, 1987, Vol. 17, p.186, Ars Orientalis
Scientific evidence by fluorescence spectrometry for safflower red on ancient Japanese textiles stored in the Shosoin Treasure House repository, Rikiya Nakamura et al, November 2014, Vol 59, No.6, p.367, Studies in Conservation Journal
Shadows of Transgression: Heian and Kamakura Constructions of Prostitution, Goodwin, J., 2000, pp.327-329, Monumenta Nipponica
Swatch Favourite Fabric No. 41 Awa Shijira-ori, Sarah Jane Downing, March 2018, Issue 81, p.98, Selvedge Magazine, London | https://issuu.com/selvedgemagazine/docs/81_japan_blue
Tao Yuanming's Sashes: Or, the Gendering of Immortality, 1999, Vol. 29, p.15, Ars Orientalis
The Dying Case of the Kimono:The Influence of Changing Fashions on the Development of the Japanese Woolen Industry, Keiichirō Nakagawa, Henry Rosovsky, 1963, Vol.37, No.2, pp.59-80, The Business History Review | Available online at https://www.jstor.org/stable/3112093, Accessed 26/02/2022
The Economic Aspects of the History of the Civilization of Japan, Yosaburō Takekoshi, 1930, p.230, Volume 3
The Economic History of Japan 1600-1990; Economic history of Japan 1914-1955, Takafusa Nakamura, Akira Hayami, Kōnosuke Odaka, 1999, p.42, Volume 3
The Gentlewoman's Book of Dress, Fanny Douglas, 1895, p.37
The Rise and Fall of Industrialization and Changing Labor Intensity: The Case of Export-Oriented Silk Weaving District in Modern Japan, Tomoko Hashino, Keijiro Otsuka, 2015, pp.1-6 | Available online at https://www.econ.kobe-u.ac.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/1501.pdf
The Significance of the Central Asian Objects in the Shōsōin for Understanding the International Art Trade in the Seventh and Eighth Centuries, William E. Mierse, March 2017, p.267, Sino Platonic Papers | http://sino-platonic.org/complete/spp267_shosoin.pdf
The Silent Beauty: Changing Portrayals of Xi Shi, from Zhiguai, Poetry, Ming Fiction and Drama, Olivia Milburn, 2013, Volume 26, No. 1, pp.26-33, Asia Major
The Social Life of Kimono: Japanese Fashion Past and Present, Sheila Cliffe, 2017, pp.134-164
The Story of My Life, Ellen Terry, 1908, p.85
The Techniques and Origin of Ornamental Gold Silks in Ancient China, Xiaorui Hu, Weidong Yu, 2016, p.1, Donghua University of Shanghai | https://www.researchgate.net/ publication/304340441_The_Techniques_and_Origin_of_Ornamental_Gold_Silks_in_Ancient_China
The Ultimate Sashiko Sourcebook: Patterns, Projects and Inspirations, Susan Briscoe, 2016, pp.8-15
The West in Asia and Asia in the West, Elisabetta Marino, Tanfer Emin Tunc, 2015, p.169
Travels in Tartary, Thibet and China, Evariste Regis Huc, 1854[1928], pp.xxx-xxxi | Available at https://archive.org/details/b3135953x_0001
Sashiko 365: Stitch a new sashiko embroidery pattern every day of the year, Susan Briscoe, 2022, p.5
Sashiko Pattern Book for Beginners: A Japanese Embroidery Art of Stitching, Angela Kemp, 2010, pp.10-11
Ukiyo-e: An introduction to Japanese Woodblock Prints, Kobayashi Tadashi, 1997, pp.67-68, Kodansha International
Victorian Tea Gowns : A Case of High Fashion Experimentation, Vol. 44 No.1, 2018, pp.3-22
Views of the Floating World, Money L. Hickman, 1978, Vol. 76, p.5, MFA Bulletin
Wabi-Sabi, Mono no Aware, and Ma: Tracing Traditional Japanese Aesthetics Through Japanese History, Lauren Prusinsk, March 2012, Vol 2, pp.27-29, Studies on Asia
Wang Zhaojun on the Border: Gender and Intercultural Conflicts in Premodern Chinese Drama, Daphne Pi-Wei Lei, 1996, Number 2, Volume 13, pp.229-237, Asian Theatre Journal
Woolen Cloths and the Boom of Fancy Kimono: Worsted Muslin and the Development of 'Kawaii' Designs in Japan from Fashion Identity and Power in Modern Asia, Sugimoto Seiko, 2018, Chapter 11, pp.259-284
Worlds seen and imagined : Japanese screens from the Idemitsu Museum of Arts, Taizo Kuroda, Melinda Takeuchi, Yuzo Yamane 1995, pp.36-53 | https://archive.org/details/worldsseenimagin0000kuro/page/37/mode/1up?q=%22machi-eshi%22&view=theater
Yellowface: Creating the Chinese in American Popular Music and Performance, Krystyn R. Moon, 2005, pp.6-74
Youtube (2021), 'Life of a Wakashu, Japan’s Third Gender (Male-Male Romance in Edo Japan)', Linfamy, Available at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzG4UOaGy7M
Kimono Shops:
Note Shops with their URL in brackets are high profile stores, in my opinion.
Active:
- https://www.kyotokimono.com/ ; active since 1996 [ENG]
- https://search.rakuten.co.jp/search/mall/kimono/ ; active since 1997 [JP]
- https://www.yokodana.com/blogs/yokodana-kimono-blog ; active since 1998 [ENG]
- http://www.yaya2002.com/ ; active from 2002 [JP]
- https://www.kimono-yukata-market.com/index.html ; active from 2002 [ENG]
- Mamechiyo (https://www.mamechiyo.jp/) ; active since 2003 [JP]
- http://c-q.fem.jp/cqkimono.html ; active from 2005 [JP]
- https://www.net-shinei.co.jp/com/ ; active from 2006 [ENG]
- https://samuraigeisha.blogspot.com/ ; active from 2006 [ENG]
- http://kimono-sarasa.com/ ; active from 2009 [JP]
- https://www.ohiokimono.com/kimonobooks ; active from 2009 [ENG]
- http://kittykanzashi.blogspot.com/ ; active from 2009 [ENG]
- https://kimonokesa.exblog.jp/page/513/ ; active from 2010 [JP]
- http://choko-choko.shop-pro.jp/?mode=cate&cbid=1659707&csid=0 ; active from 2012 [JP]
- https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/SalzTokyo?ref=shop_sugg ; active from 2013
- https://masaboshi.shop-pro.jp/ ; active from 2014
- Uberdandy (https://uberdandykimono.com/) ; active from 2015 [ENG]
- https://www.net-qp.com/en/ ; active from 2015
- Furifu (https://furifu.com/en/kimono/) ; active from 2016
- http://kimono-nakamura.com/ ; active from 2016
- https://www.fujikimono.co.uk/womens-kimono/mosaic.htmlh ; active from ?
- http://www.kirukiru.co.jp/ active from ?
- https://note.com/yumekichi_kimono/ active from ?
Inactive:
- Ichiroya (http://www.ichiroya.com/close.html); active from 2001-2020
- http://fuuka.jp/ ; active from 2005 - ? [JP]
- http://blog.livedoor.jp/ichimanben/archives/51408026.html ; active from 2007-2010
- https://kimonomode.exblog.jp/8994166/ ; active from 2008 - 2018
Blogs
Active
- http://blog.livedoor.jp/chokonyan/ ; active from 2004
- http://blog.livedoor.jp/auberginefleur/ ; active from 2005 [NOTE TO SELF, LINKS]
- http://salondehappiness.blog120.fc2.com/ ; active 2008
- https://www.ayumihase.com/about ; active from 2008
- http://kimonobancho.blog22.fc2.com/ ; active 2009
- https://moonblossom.net/blog/ ; active from 2011
- https://kimononagoya.tumblr.com/ ; active from 2011
- https://kimono-daisuki.tumblr.com/ ; active 2014
- https://www.instagram.com/kimonoteka/?hl=en ; active from 2018
- https://kaguyaschest.blogspot.com/ ; active 2021
- https://silkandbones.com/blog/ ; active from 2021
Inactive
- http://mboogiedown-japan.blogspot.com/ active 2004-2008
- http://blog.livedoor.jp/kimonoruinok/ active 2005-2010
- http://kimonoandkitsuke.blogspot.com/ ; active 2005-2015
- http://gochagocha.jugem.jp/?page=1 ; active 2005-2017
- http://blog.livedoor.jp/nakanoshimakimonoich/ ; active 2006-2018
- http://blog.nojimaya.net/ active 2007-2011
- http://justanotherkimonoblog.blogspot.com/ ; active 2007-2015
- http://blog.livedoor.jp/kimonosarasa/ active 2007-2008
- http://strawberrykimono.blogspot.com/ ; active 2008-2014
- https://reddelilah.wordpress.com/page/15/ ; active 2008-2015
- http://sakeandkimono.blogspot.com/ ; active 2008-2018
- http://blog.livedoor.jp/jinbeizame05/ ; active 2008-2018
- http://brandnewbearings.blogspot.com/search/label/kimono ; active 2008-2015
- http://jadexcore.blogspot.com/ ; active 2008-2018
- http://heartful-kimono.blogspot.com/ ; active 2009-2011
- http://tansuflowers.blogspot.com/ ; active 2009-2011
- http://karankorondori.blogspot.com/ ; active 2010-2011
- http://kimonomagic.blogspot.com/ active 2010-2011
- http://vsilberregen.blogspot.com/ ; active 2010-2012
- https://bebetaian.tumblr.com/ ; active 2010-2013
- https://agarunew.exblog.jp/ active 2010-2013
- http://kimono-life.blogspot.com/ ; active 2010-2014
- http://thekimonolady.blogspot.com/ ; active 2010-2016
- http://www.redhotkimono.com/ ; active 2010-2020
- http://kimonoclubamsterdam.blogspot.com/ ; active 2011-2014
- http://nya.cocolog-nifty.com/nyakimonodiary/ ; active 2012-2013
- http://fashionkimono.blogspot.com/ ; active 2012-2015
- http://www.kimonohiro.com/ ; active 2014 -2017
Socials:
https://linktr.ee/Kaguyaschest
https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KaguyasChest?ref=seller-platform-mcnav or https://www.instagram.com/kaguyaschest/ or https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5APstTPbC9IExwar3ViTZw, or https://www.pinterest.co.uk/LuckyMangaka/hrh-kit-of-the-suke
